Golf/GTI VI :: Choking Whenever Hit 3000 Rpm - Check Engine Light Came On Blinking
Aug 30, 2013
This morning on my drive to work my car would choke whenever I hit 3000 rpm right when the car is sucking the most air from my intake, and especially on 3rd gear and up. After being on the road for quite some time my check engine light came on blinking but went away right after I stop pushing the car to 3000 rpm to switch gears.
The car is on APR Stage 1 with AEM Filter + Nuespeed Intake + BSH Inlet Pipe.
Recently added was a VW Diverter Valve D Version due to an oil leaking from my Old Diverter Valvue G version.
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I've been getting a blinking engine check light.. I pulled all the codes:
P0050: H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sen 1
P0304: cylinder 4 Misfire detected
P0688: ECM/PCM Power relay sensor circuit
I've had the car sitting for awhile because I lost my job and didn't have any money to roll it around much.
I just changed out the spark plugs and two of these had a white coating on them.. I was hoping this would take care of the misfire after I replaced them. I also bought a new battery because mine had lost charge a few times.
The Car will run with an engine check light, but if I go past 2500-3000 rpms then it will start blinking (which means don't drive it )
The oil has been sitting in it for about 2 months, so I'm about to go change that and I'm hoping this will allow me to drive it without issues.
Any of these codes thrown and know what they could be? Which O2 sensor (like a link to a website that sells them). Trying to get this thing running again.
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Our R32 has 2428 miles- and today the check engine light came on and it started to run pretty rough, babied it home and the the light was blinking when I turned into the driveway.. I know that booklet 3.2 in the owners manual is diagnosing catalytic converter issues...I have always used super unleaded, it hasn't even reached the halfway point of the first service.
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2004 VW jetta 2.0 ... So my vehicle stalled on me i replaced the battery, the alt, and then when i started it after installing the new alternator it didn't sound right so i checked it out and saw a spark plug wire was in very bad condition and was causing a spark where the spark plug and the spark plug wire connect so i bought a new set of spark plug wires and swapped the old ones for the new ones. Now when i start my vehicle the check engine light is blinking and the car definitely does not sound right. i am positive i did everything correct when swapping the spark plug wires but i am lost as to what could be the issue.
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I just bought a 2000 GTI with the 1.8 turbo. It was very affordable, but it had a few problems. On hard rides, the check engine light was blinking AND I think there was too much oil in the crankcase (I say "think" because the dipstick funnel is gone and I'm not sure how far down the dipstick should go -- new one is on order).
I got rid of the extra oil, and now if I keep the oil in the hatched area of the dipstick (with the dipstick pushed down as far as it goes), the check engine light will never blink even under hard driving. But with the oil that low, the oil light will flash and beep on hard turns. I was experimenting, adding a little oil at a time, and hoping to find the magical sweet spot where neither the check engine light nor the oil light would go off. Instead, tonight I found the opposite -- the sour spot where BOTH of them go off.
So now I'm thinking maybe I need to change to a thicker oil. This car has 124,000 miles on it and was recently refilled with 0w-40. On my last car (a 1994 Golf with the 2.0 liter and 140,000 miles), the oil light would beep on hot days. I solved that permanently by changing from 0w-40 to Mobil 1 15w-50.
Finally, I checked the codes and it said there was a misfire in #2 cylinder as well as general misfiring So I checked the plugs and discovered that the previous idiot had gapped the #2 plug at 1/8 inch! So I (the present idiot) regapped them all and the engine seems to run better, but maybe going for months with such a huge gap has already fried the #2 coil. Should I just replace it? (or all of them?)
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On my way to work, my check engine light started blinking and car was sputtering (real bad on idle). I ran the code and it came back with misfires codes. I changed the coils/plugs, fuel filter and fuel pump last year. Can the coils be bad already? When I clear the codes the car will run fine for a little while. But after a couple miles CEL will blink and the car will run roughly again.
Car : 2004 Golf 2.0
Codes:
16684: random multiple misfires
16648: fuel injector #2 short to ground
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Ok...so I drove my car last night about 120 miles and all was well. Got up this morning to go run some errands and the car started acting weird, sputtering. The check engine light was blinking on and off, then it came on solid and stayed on. I haven't checked the code yet.
2004 Jetta GLI1.8 T Manual Transmission
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So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
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I changed my plugs a few days ago on my 96' Taurus GL 3.0LI checked under my hood to check the recommended gap size and it said .42 to .46.. I went with .46. after putting them in i started the car up just fine, but later in the day i noticed when I came to a stop at a red light my car would sputter and my check engine light would start blinking. When I'd accelerate and drive it again everything would clear up and the light would stop blinking. I didn't change the wires, just the plugs in case you were wondering but I am unsure of how much that would influence my problem. Today after work i had a little trouble starting my car. After a few tries it started and my exhaust smelt rich in gasoline. Did i gap them too much? Should i get new plugs again and regap them? should i buy new wires also?Is my ignition coil going bad?
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It's a 2010 vw jetta. Check engine light is blinking and the epc light is on the car is not paid off yet have no.
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My Girlfriend just got a 2003 Hyundai Elantra and everything was running great on it the first month she had it BUT the check engine light was on.. After about a month she called me up while driving and said that the check engine light was blinking and the car would hardly move. So I got to the car and looked at it and I noticed the oil filter was a little loose so I tightened it good this time and added a little bit of oil. It actually moved but it would hesitate. So we had it towed to a shop and they read the codes from the check engine light and told us it was leaking oil from the motor some where (not specific) and it also needed a new O2 sensor.
So I replaced the catalytic converter underneath the car and also a new sensor along with a new set of spark plugs. It ran alot better and I left it at that. Now about a week later she was coming home and noticed that when she turned left or right that the battery light and brake light on the dash came on. She drove it home and when she turned in the driveway the car went dead. It started right back up and we got it to the house and left it over night. I went out this morning and again it started right up. but when I lifted the hood I noticed the belts on the pulleys were all spinning very slowly. I'm not sure if it could be a timing chain or if it just needs new pulleys.
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When I was driving to school this morning my check engine light went on and I noticed that my car is running very rough (suddenly). I also noticed that the check engine light would blink when accelerating at a stop light then go solid again when driving. I drive long distances between school and work and I think I won't be making it to work later due to this issue. This is a Saturn Ion II 2005 and gets regular maintenance on time.
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So I am on my way to the store this morning and the check engine light starts blinking. After I get out of the store I try to start the car so I can drive the mile back home and then have it towed to the dealer. The car is only able to drive at like 1-3mph. I changed the cam follower 6k ago and the car only has 43k.
I'm thinking this seems like a fuel delivery/cam follower type of issue. At the moment my plan is to have AAA tow the car home so I can see if its a follower issue. If it is I think I'm going to have to take off my downpipe and put the stock one back on. When I put the car in neutral and step on the throttle I get no revs at all.
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My check engine lights been on forever, like every VW, but now it's blinking fast, and the car isn't running right. It's messed up AGAIN, it's running really bad, like misfiring and not making power. It's shaky feeling in the throttle and power, almost like it's going to stall but it doesn't. What the problem is?
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'99 Passat GLS - 79,000 miles - no mods ... Solid Check Engine Light was on for about 2 weeks...last time it was on, it was a fuel cap issue so I took my time with it. Well, all of the sudden on 4/14/03, on my way to work, (less than 5 minutes after starting the car) the car starts to ride hard (like going over grated pavement)...check engine light starts to blink! I pulled over. Eventually the light went back to solid.
Tonight (on 4th ignition sequence since picking up the car this AM) - the solid Check Engine Light came on again.
I had a friend who went through this with a 2000 Passat GLS - different dealer claimed it was the MAF, then the O2 sensors, then....she eventually took it to carmax to unload it.
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I have a 2013 Elantra GLS with almost 200k on it. I am the original owner. I have only had a few small problems with it just replacing lights and had to replace the passengers side wheel bearing twice. the rest has just m=been replacing wear and tear parts. the check engine light is on because it needs 02 sensors. They are back ordered. The car started idling roughly and driving horribly on the way from Rhode Island to New York on Christmas day. A friend had a diagnostic machine and the code read misfire cylinder 3 p0303..I am assuming it damaged the catalytic converter and that I now need both the sensors and the convertor. I live about 7 miles from my garage. should I tow it ? or drive a t a low speed? Have to bring it in first thing in the morning. What else could be wrong?
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The check engine light is blinking on my 98 Mazda Protege. I'd like to purchase one of those little hand held computers so that I can diagnose the problem myself. Should I leave it up to the professionals?
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I have a 1996 chevy caprice wit a 4.3 v-8 one day i was driving and the car started acting funny and the check engine lite started blinking i had the codes read and 0p300 came up saying multiple misfire so I changed the plug wires they all connect in the front around the harmonic balancer well that didn't work its still saying multi misfire so I took a spark plug wire off of the electric dis block and no change in motor now I don't know what to do...
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Intermittently blinking check engine light in a 2003(?) Ford Escape. I received a call from my fiance, who's about 45 minutes into a two hour drive. On the interstate, her check engine light started blinking, so she pulls off the interstate to a gas station (the light was blinking for maybe five minutes before she could stop, according to her). After she was off the interstate, but before she had turned the engine off, the blinking stopped.
She called me, and I looked up and directed her to an AutoZone about a half mile from where she was. Told her to drive there, and have them to try to read any codes from the engine. She drives over, engine light stays off the entire time. They hook up the reader, and there aren't any codes. My question is, if the check engine light stops blinking, and there aren't any codes for the reader, is the car safe to drive, or will she destroy the cat if she keeps going? Also, it's raining, if that matters for any reason.
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Today I went to the gas station and after I gased up and turned the car on my car started idling rough, almost to the point of cutting out. I started out on the road and my check engine light started blinking. After some time it stopped and just stayed on. The whole front end shakes pretty bad when at idle. The car has trouble accelerating till roughly 35-40 mph then seems to ride ok. I'm not very car knowledgeable, but I do take care of my car. I know I need to replace some of my hoses and spark plugs soon, but am worried that it may be more serious.
What I would like to know is: 1. What could possibly cause these issues and 2.
2003 Mazda Protege
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Just bought 2007 Gs 350 in Dec 2015 with 60k miles. The other day I filled up with gas and drove to work. On the way home check engine light started blinking, check VSC appeared on display screen and traction light came on, car ran rough, and wouldn't accelerate. Got home and searched the net.. So I removed gas cap... No change.. Then removed neg battery cable for 10 min. Fixed problem for about 10 min. Then it all happened again. Next morning took it to Lexus dealer. The rep called and said it gave misfire cylinder 3. They said they checked valve springs and they are good, exchanged coil pack with different cylinder and still misfire #3. He said has to be injector so they want to replace injector ....
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