Golf/GTI VI :: Check Engine After Installing ECS Downpipe?
Jul 29, 2015
So I just installed (well Strasse Autowerks did) my ECS downpipe with high flow yesterday, i have an 2010 GTI Unitronic 1+ and i've been using the car for an hour without any problem and then after that hour the check engine appeared and stays on in my dash.. some guy told me its normal because i have to upgrade to stage 2 so the error would disappear is that right??
And while being here i was also wondering, I'm going to have an intake later next week but what else do i need as equipment for the car for that upgrade?
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I have a 2011 GTI with a Stage 1 APR tune. My friend and I installed an APR Carbonio cold air intake a month ago. We let the car idle for 10 minutes like the directions said after the install and followed all the directions. We then took the car out for a drive and once I hit the gas hard my check engine light came on. I haven't noticed any loss of power. The code I got was the P0299. I reset the code and drove the car carefully for a few weeks and no light. After I hit the gas hard again the light came back on.
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I installed my i-throttle but I might have done some steps wrong don't remember exactly but now my check engine light is on.I throttle works fine. Is there a way to fix this and make the check engine go.
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We are in the process of taking off the downpipe of our R. We can not figure out the trick to getting the front lower bolt of the downpipe. For that matter we can not even see the damn thing. Do you get to it from the top or bottom?
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If I were to install a downpipe on the mk7 and not tune it, will my cel trip. Also if the cel trips is there any damage long term to the car having it on and second if I go to the dealer will I void warranty with a downpipe.
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As the title says I currently have the idiot light on but I can honestly say the ECU might not be adapted yet. what the solution longer O2 spacers etc...?
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I Put my stock downpipe back on while having a CEL... never got the stage 2 flash. I can t reset the CEL it keeps coming back on. Do it will reset itself eventually or do I have another problem? It is the cat code I forget the number.
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How to keep the driveshaft from spinning while I undo the 10mm 12pts? It just seems around enough to slightly scare me into thinking the car might move, and I can't seem to break them loose.
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For those of you who have the 42 Draft Downpipe, I have a weird audible vibration during acceleration and I'm assuming something isn't mounted 100% correctly.
I remember a while back I saw a post about something similar but search is failing me at the moment. So what was the resolution?
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So I recently bought a GTI and started to fix a couple things. It has a P0420 code so I bought a new downpipe to install. Noticed the stock one was missing 1 of the nuts and the stud had broken off. How get this out? Do I need to remove the turbo? Looks like I do need to remove the turbo to use an extractor set.
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So I recently purchased a used Megan Racing 2.5" downpipe off a fellow Vortexer. Today I installed the downpipe and straight race pipe. After installing, my brother and I noticed a grayish smoke coming from the engine bay. Further looking revealed the smoke seems to be coming from the flex pipe mesh on the downpipe. What could be causing this??
Downpipe does not have a lot of mileage. No leaks. Brand new VW gasket was installed between the turbo and downpipe. Smell of smoke does not seem to be oil burning - seems more like a metal/gasket burning smell. Grayish color from what we could tell at night. Turbo still spools. No lights on dash.
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when I bought my 2003 gti 1.8t it had a small exhaust leak, I decided to investigate today and found that the downpipe flange and turbo flange was rattling around, there's almost 1/16" of play and it's making a rattling noise. I can't tighten the nuts on the studs any more but that might just be from them being seized in place. I'm getting a new gasket and studs and nuts and hopefully that will fix it?
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2003 Golf GTI Turbo... New to VW, I'm a jeep guy and bought a GTI for my wife to try rally cross in. It had some problems that I knew about when I bought it, had to replace CV shafts, control arms, fix broken trans mount, etc. I'm on to the last piece of the puzzle now.
The expansion joint on the downpipe from the turbo is basically exploded. Not a big deal, just buy a new downpipe and biky everything together right? Not so much. Bought one the other day, it showed up and has 3 bolts on turbo side, mine has 4.
When I look at the other stock turbo downpipes, it looks like they have 3 bolts as well. What's going on? Did the previous owner put a different turbo on this? I just need the damn downpipe, but can't figure out which one to order.
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I just had a new downpipe installed and now I am getting a horrible scrapping noise when coming off a dead stop. I got under the car and looks like the downpipe is touching subframe heat shield. My question is should i take it back and have them make some clearance or is there a quicker solution. New downpipe and subframe heat shield.
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Just installed the smoked tail lights on my '07 Treg. Installation was very easy per the instructions on OEMplus. I did a great job from that standpoint.
Got one issue, I check the 'Check Lights" warning and I think its due to the fact I tested the lights before I had all the new ones installed and hooked up. Do I need to take it to the dealer to have something reset via a computer or will the check light go away with some driving, which is what the dealer said.
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So i was driving to school today and my check engine light went on.. I still don't know whats wrong i' m going to go check after school. But for few days i heard this rattling sound coming from my engine..
Could that set off my engine light?
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Car has had a hard time starting battery is charged but still needed extra power to get the car started this morning as I am driving car shut off at every stop now it has a rough idle with both the check and esp light on any have this problem before.
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So recently bought vagcom to do a bunch of changes. Have a cel and the code is intake manifold flap position sensor. I have looked around and lots of ppl saying they took car in and vw fixed no issues blah blah blah. Well I have an issue. Cuz my car is not covered under warranty any more. And so I called local vw dealer and they told me I need to replace my throttle body? I thought I had to change my intake manifold and flapper motor.
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23,800 miles. Cruising up Hwy. When EPC and Check Engine light both come on for about 1 second, car stutters, then it's back to normal. Never happened before.
Check for codes with VAG-COM and nothing registered. I did notice a strange like-a-clock-ticking sound coming from the center console area as I had the key in the ignition while checking my ECU with VAG-COM. Didn't sound horrible, but it was a sound that I don't recall ever hearing before.
Could this be the start of something that is about to get worse?
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I installed the pierburg revised DV yesterday because my old DV was shot, squealing and leaking boost. After installing it I noticed that when i'm under around 15 psi and i let it build up that I get this flutter I didnt have before. I assume its the wastegate but I haven't heard it prior to installing the new DV so my fear is that its the valve no circulating and its putting the unused psi back through the turbo (not good).
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I've got a '13 CW Loaded 4DR. Its got just under 40K miles. Tune wise its the STG2+ from I.E., been tuned for maybe 10K miles. I was fueling up and I always tighten the cap correctly as Oregon has Fuel Transfer Technicians, AKA People who don't care whether your fuel cap is on right or not. So soon after the fuel cap light came on, pulled over and tightened it again. Light went away. Next fuel fill up, same thing. Third fuel up, same fuel cap light and then CEL came on.
Ive got VAGcom and checked for codes and got the small leak detected twice and then the large leak detected code. So I was thinking it was just a cap. I swapped gas caps with my brothers MK4 R32 to maybe get lucky and the code returns. Thats impossible for it to fall too, so I dug deeper. I checked the N80 valve as I remember those being an issue on 1.8t and old Flows, So i pinched off the line to it and performed the test again, and bam, no more code for large leak.
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