Golf/GTI VI :: Check Engine Light On And Off - P2015 And P0303 Diagnosed
May 16, 2016
I have been a check engine light on and off for the past few months. I finally got the codes read and I have P2015, Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1, and P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire.
The car had 80,000 miles, APR intake, Downpipe, Exhaust, and tune. When I had this work done I had engine problems and replaced the spark plugs and Upgraded Coil packs from the R8. Two years later and I get these error codes.
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Check engine light on, these are the codes, can't find anywhere? Seems to run fine. '07 fsi V-8.
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2008 Toyota Prius Touring. I got a Check Engine Light while at a drive-thru, and my "Automatic" adapter reports this:
I drove the remaining ~60 miles home without incident, and the engine seems to be running smoothly and I don't notice any loss of power or rough idling or anything along those lines.
Going by the first few Google results, a P0011 error could indicate a few things:
-Incorrect camshaft timing
-Wiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system
-Continuous oil flow to VCT piston chamber
-Failed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open)
I've had this car for ~3 years and have always been super careful about regular oil changes and maintenance, including dropping an ungodly amount of money getting the "full 100,000 mile service package" at the dealership ~6 months ago.
Suddenly getting a P0011 error code and Check Engine light on a well-maintained 2008 Prius w/ 112,000 miles.
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I have been having some engine/electrical issues with my 2003 saab 9-3 convertible. It started with the check engine light coming on I had it diagnosed as a map 2 sensor and transmission output sensor. The light went off and the car ran fine. Now the light is back on and the engine stalls out at random times (while accelerating, at idol, and now loses power during full throttle. It bucks on the highway).
Today while losing power blue smoke comes out of the tail pipe, but only during the power loss bucking. I also notice when there is a power loss or skip/bucking the turbo needle goes into the yellow/high mark. I am going to take it to a repair shop soon but what this might be? Also sometimes while driving when the bucking/skipping/power loss happens the gear indicator light on the dash goes from drive to neutral to reverse and park intermittently.
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I have a 2000 VW Jetta 2.0l AEG engine with 190,000 miles and check engine code P0303 for the 2nd time in 3 months. I had this same code 3 months and 3000 miles ago and found the spark plug #3 to be fouled up. All other plugs and wires seemed to be okay so I replaced plug #3 and the problem went away. I suppose after I take off the upper intake manifold I am going to find the same plug #3 to be fouled up again. The engine is a typical AEG that I have to add 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles as it has been burning the same amount of oil since I acquired the car at 135,000 miles. I have read that the wrong piston rings were installed from the factory on a large number of these engines and VW says that if less than 1 quart of oil is burned after 7500 miles it is normal. I really don't feel like spending 2 hours every 3000 miles to replace plug #3 ? It might be time to part ways with my 2nd VW. As a side note, this car has been averaging 35.5 mpg over the last 55,000 miles that includes 50% city/ 50% highway driving. I coast to red lights and don't accelerate quickly with the 5 speed manual transmission to achieve hybrid like fuel efficiency.
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My wife's 2010 RX350 with 75K miles on it , the check Engine Light came up with code P0303 (cylinder misfire). Since the warranty is out already so I went to my mechanic and had the spark plugs and the back ignition coils replaced. After a week, the light came back on. So I went to the dealership and they said the engine needs to be taken apart because of low compression and valves could have carbon build up already.
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My 2004 Cadillac CTS 3.6L started running rough, check engine light flashed on and off. Codes P0300 and P0303. The car has about 119000 miles. Could this just be the plugs? The car has been running fine up to today.
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I own the 2014 Santa fe turbo 2.0 litre limited which has 4000 km on it. Within 210 km the engine light came on 3 times. I took it into the shop and they ran a code of P0303 which is a misfire, they changed the coils #2 and #3 and cleared the code. The second time it showed the same code but the shop said it was in the history so that is why the same code came up again. They ran an update ECM? and all was good. Now the 3rd time they tell me no code has come up and can't do anything about the engine (they cleared it) but it was like chasing ghosts. My vehicle runs great so not sure why I am constantly having this issue.
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Got a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4.0L in it that has a misfire on the #3 cylinder and giving check engine code: P303. Have tried new plugs, wires, distributor, switching out the coil pack with a known good, checked injectors for pulse, checked injectors, moved injectors and still the misfire remains on #3. Removed the valve covers and all appears to be well.
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My husband has a 2011 GTI, which has just hit the 40k mileage mark. His CEL started coming on in March, but we figured it was due to him not tightening the gas cap enough, as he'd open and relock the gas cap, and the CEL would go away within a few restarts of the car. Took it into the stealership last week, got the 40k service (which was a bit of a rip-off in itself), and then got told the manifold was bad.
This is the exact text for the invoice: "Checked the vehicle for codes and found code P2015. Traced the intermittent failure to the intake manifold valve flap sensor failing."
I've seen a lot of posts around this problem, for many models and years, but it seems like most people managed to get it repaired under warranty / TSB. So I have three questions:
1. In the OBD codes, does it store date as well as code? In other words, is there a way to prove that this failed under 36k miles?
2. What's the process for getting this escalated to VWOA customer care, since I feel this should be taken care of under warranty?
3. The dealership we took the car to (which is not where we purchased the car, but is just closer to home) was shady, and the guy we worked with was, to say it nicely, a jerk.
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Soild CEL, autozone pulled a P2015 code, but couldnt find it for VW in their system, just hyundai, toyota, dodge, and kia codes came up.
Looked around and everywhere says it's the notorious MKVI IM replacement issue.. Im under PT warranty until Nov. '15 so im good there.
Heres the catch.. sometimes it goes off without any changes to the vehicle. First thing (before the obd2 reader from autozone) i checked was my gas cap, that will cause a CEL sometimes, next time I started the car the CEL was off. the next day, without touching the gas cap since, the CEL was on again, today its off
car idles fine, drives fine, MPG are fine, pulls fine, stops fine, steers fine, everything works in the car. year: 2011
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I got the known p2015 code about a month ago and the CEL is on. Here is my situation though...I went and had my car tuned for an APR stage 1+ tune with stock hardware, everything was fine. I then upgraded to a catless 3 inch downpipe (ebay on that links up to the stock downpipe) and a short ram intake and decided to go to the 2+ to delete the engine code for not having a cat.
While I was there, the guy tuning my car said on top of the code for not having a cat, there was a code for my intake manifold saying that one of the motors for a flap wasn't working correctly. I left there expecting to see a code but it never came back on. After4-5 months, I had to pass emissions. Obviously you cant pass with the 2+(found that out the hard way) so I had to have it returned to a regular stage 1 with the stock downpipe. Still no sign of a code for the intake manifold.
I passed emissions and then put my downpipe back on, however, I decided to buy the 200 cell cat from 42DD to weld into my downpipe to save me from having to constantly get my car tuned just to pass emissions. After welding in the cat, I still had a CEL. I went to advance auto and it said I had a code p2015 Intake Manifold Runner Sen Sw Ckit Rng/Perf B1.
I went and got my car tuned to the stage 2 for the hi flow cat and the light is still on. My question is, do I need to replace the whole intake manifold or is there a possibility that I could replace just a sensor? I have a 2012. If just replacing the intake manifold will solve this issue, I'll probably just buy [URL] .... and replace it myself (assumable that's what I need ).
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So i was driving to school today and my check engine light went on.. I still don't know whats wrong i' m going to go check after school. But for few days i heard this rattling sound coming from my engine..
Could that set off my engine light?
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Car has had a hard time starting battery is charged but still needed extra power to get the car started this morning as I am driving car shut off at every stop now it has a rough idle with both the check and esp light on any have this problem before.
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So recently bought vagcom to do a bunch of changes. Have a cel and the code is intake manifold flap position sensor. I have looked around and lots of ppl saying they took car in and vw fixed no issues blah blah blah. Well I have an issue. Cuz my car is not covered under warranty any more. And so I called local vw dealer and they told me I need to replace my throttle body? I thought I had to change my intake manifold and flapper motor.
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I've got a '13 CW Loaded 4DR. Its got just under 40K miles. Tune wise its the STG2+ from I.E., been tuned for maybe 10K miles. I was fueling up and I always tighten the cap correctly as Oregon has Fuel Transfer Technicians, AKA People who don't care whether your fuel cap is on right or not. So soon after the fuel cap light came on, pulled over and tightened it again. Light went away. Next fuel fill up, same thing. Third fuel up, same fuel cap light and then CEL came on.
Ive got VAGcom and checked for codes and got the small leak detected twice and then the large leak detected code. So I was thinking it was just a cap. I swapped gas caps with my brothers MK4 R32 to maybe get lucky and the code returns. Thats impossible for it to fall too, so I dug deeper. I checked the N80 valve as I remember those being an issue on 1.8t and old Flows, So i pinched off the line to it and performed the test again, and bam, no more code for large leak.
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My check engine light just came on. the engine seems to be running fine. I used my memo scanner and these codes came up. I am not sure what they mean. What exactly needs to be fixed? 2010 MK6 GTI
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Coming and going away on the next to 2nd engine start. Usually coming on after a hot run, or a hot day. Stays off for a month, then comes back. Runs fine, no symptoms, no other noticeable abnormalities.
Besides Ross Tech, VCDS, are there other softwares or devices that work for diagnostic and maintenance purposes? I have no interest in re-programming factory functions, just maintenance.
2008 R32
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Just popped on at exactly 97,600k, What could be some of the potential snafu's? Or is it just more preventative as it needs proper service. Will be taking it to Dealer, but just curious as to what it could be.
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Bought an R32 yesterday. used of course.. was doing fine feels like a brand new clutch. got it from a ford dealership, and the check engine light just turned on. I will go back for the 14 day policy but i was wondering if it could be my clutch.
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Four days after buying my 2010 gti, the check engine light appeared for the first time. I believe thats VW's way of saying, 'Welcome back to the family.
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