Golf/GTI VI :: Check Engine Light Flash / Grinding Noise When Rev Get Above 3k RPM
Oct 24, 2011
2010 GTI 6 speed. Bought used in Jan '11 w/ `6k miles on it
The past few mornings, from a cold start, my car has been running weird. There has been sort of a grinding noise when the rev's get above maybe 3k rpm and the Check Engine will flash, but then turn off once I shift and the revs are back down. The problem seems to go away once the engine is warm, and it seems to be worse the colder it is outside. It seems to have started last week after I hit a really bad pothole (the kind that makes you shed a tear for your poor car).
What the problem might be? I'm planning to take it to the dealer later this week (the problem seems to go away when the car is warm).
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My 04 GTI 1.8T got the infamous codes P0300, P0303 and P0301 yesterday morning. The check-engine light flash when I drive it. It is a little rough when the check-engine light flashes, but it is drivable and nothing major. When the car idle or when it come to a complete stop for 15 seconds or so, the check-engine light goes away and it comes back after 15 seconds or so after took off from stop.
I cleaned the MAF last night, but the check-engine light still acts the same way as yesterday on the way work this morning. The codes refer to miss-fire. This is my first VW.
Since I can easily get sparkplug from Checkers, I'll try it first. Checkers carries Autolite, ACDelco, NGK and Champions. Which brand do you prefer for VW engine? I hope that it is not the coil pack. It is expensive for $30 each at ECS Tuning.
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I own a 1998 ford f150 4.6l triton v8. I was leaving my house to go on a snowboarding trip about three weeks ago it was a rather warm wet day and all of the sudden my check engine light began to flash. I immediately pulled over and restarted my truck, once it was started again it was solid.
I turned around and started driving towards home. I get a small amount of feedback from my speakers and usually it's a smooth whizzing sound but as i accelerated the sound began to stutter rather than remain smooth. after about 5 minutes of driving this went away and the check engine light remained on.
so today I went out it's also a wet day and it's raining quite a lot. on my way into town everything seemed okay. then on my way home the check engine light began to flash again and the feedback from the speakers became choppy again.
I would also like to mention my battery light is on but it was on prior to the first time this happened. I'm just wondering if the belt could be loose or slipping due to the wet weather?
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Past couple days my car has acted strange. Driving last night the check engine starts to flash. Car running smooth. I pull over and restart the car and all is fine. This morning while driving on expressway the slip light flashed 3-4 times and quit. This was on dry surface they car was definitely not losing traction.
Also it'll randomly flash message low key fob which it may be low but it only says it randomly like maybe 1X a month. I know this car is an electronic beast. Do you think my car battery is not supplying enough volts and causing these weird issues?
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I just purchased a 2012 CC-R 2.0T Manual. One issue I'm having is during a cold start, the engine makes a very loud noise that doesn't resemble a higher rpm that usually comes with a warm up stage. It sounds like something is grinding, followed by a vacuum/sucking noise. It lasts about 20sec and then idles normally. It only happens during cold start.
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noticing a few issues with my 2003 jetta 2.0 when driving/shifting....so first main thing I noticed is when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear often times it will make a grinding sound and not shift smoothly from 1st to 2nd....you have to do it real slow/gingerly ...if I short shift from neutral to 2nd its fine or if down shifting to 2nd its fine...I have changed the gear oil...other sounds idk if its my tranny or engine but if going up hill and you throw into 3rd and not going fast enough its makes a rattling sound and is sluggish I know its a old car 177,000 miles so idk just curious if this is a sign of problems?....Last thing after driving and getting home and putting into reverse gear to park it makes a noise like a chugging sound when reversing and can be finicky going into reverse.
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So i was driving to school today and my check engine light went on.. I still don't know whats wrong i' m going to go check after school. But for few days i heard this rattling sound coming from my engine..
Could that set off my engine light?
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I've got a '13 CW Loaded 4DR. Its got just under 40K miles. Tune wise its the STG2+ from I.E., been tuned for maybe 10K miles. I was fueling up and I always tighten the cap correctly as Oregon has Fuel Transfer Technicians, AKA People who don't care whether your fuel cap is on right or not. So soon after the fuel cap light came on, pulled over and tightened it again. Light went away. Next fuel fill up, same thing. Third fuel up, same fuel cap light and then CEL came on.
Ive got VAGcom and checked for codes and got the small leak detected twice and then the large leak detected code. So I was thinking it was just a cap. I swapped gas caps with my brothers MK4 R32 to maybe get lucky and the code returns. Thats impossible for it to fall too, so I dug deeper. I checked the N80 valve as I remember those being an issue on 1.8t and old Flows, So i pinched off the line to it and performed the test again, and bam, no more code for large leak.
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My check engine light just came on. the engine seems to be running fine. I used my memo scanner and these codes came up. I am not sure what they mean. What exactly needs to be fixed? 2010 MK6 GTI
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Coming and going away on the next to 2nd engine start. Usually coming on after a hot run, or a hot day. Stays off for a month, then comes back. Runs fine, no symptoms, no other noticeable abnormalities.
Besides Ross Tech, VCDS, are there other softwares or devices that work for diagnostic and maintenance purposes? I have no interest in re-programming factory functions, just maintenance.
2008 R32
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Just popped on at exactly 97,600k, What could be some of the potential snafu's? Or is it just more preventative as it needs proper service. Will be taking it to Dealer, but just curious as to what it could be.
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Bought an R32 yesterday. used of course.. was doing fine feels like a brand new clutch. got it from a ford dealership, and the check engine light just turned on. I will go back for the 14 day policy but i was wondering if it could be my clutch.
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Four days after buying my 2010 gti, the check engine light appeared for the first time. I believe thats VW's way of saying, 'Welcome back to the family.
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So the day before my 20,000 mile service was scheduled my check engine light came on. I took the car into the dealer and told them the light was on. When I got the call that the car was done they said that the EGR valve was bad and they ordered me another one. They said that they cleared the code and that the part would be in this week. Since they cleared the light it has not come back on. My question is did I lose my Revo stage one tune in my TDI? The dealer never said anything so I didn't want to ask if they had reset my ECU.
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So for the past few weeks my check engine light has been on. I have a mechanic friend that scanned the computer and says i have a running lean code.... says it could be anything. So i have been driving the car since and now the epc light and drive train lights are coming on... car revs up and down and sounds like is going to die... got the car scanned and says something about the throttle position sensor... before all the lights started coming on i got my fuel pump replaced..... could a faulty fuel pump be the cause? I had my mechanic, clean the throttle body and it ran good for a few days... now the problem is back... I have a 2004 1.8 gti. Do i have to replace the throttle position sensor? Fuel pump again? New throttle body again? I read somewhere on here that a guy replaced some wires near the ECM and the problem went away...
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I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 and my Immobilizer (car & key) dash light came on, along the check engine, battery, and a few lights when tried to start my car to move it. I've been doing my research and know the problem is the communication between an RFID chip in my remote key and the key cylinder. My current remote key is old so I wonder if I need a new key. Now I do have a spare remote key (hardly used) and valet key which I could have overnighted to me.
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So last night, I put my APR stage 1 intake on my 2011 GTI. Install went smoothly, didnt even touch the MAF sensor. Drove fine that night with no cels and drove home approximately 15 miles.
Today, after driving an additional 15 miles I turned off my engine. Upone restarting, the engine starts but idles at 0 then shuts off. Tried restarting a couple times to no avail. Then took out my key, gave it a few seconds, tried again and the engine starts but with a check engine light,
Shut it down, gave it a few more seconds and restarted the engine and the check engine light was gone.
WTF is going on??? I am super worried as I only have 850 miles on it and am scared I got a lemon or something. Is this normal?
EDIT: Could i have ruined my engine in any way?
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