Golf/GTI VI :: Car Will Not Unlock / Key Not In Range
Nov 28, 2014
My car has the KESSY system, and over the past month I've been having the following issues:
1) Sometimes, when I try to unlock the car by touching the sensor area on the door handle, the car will not unlock. No matter how i make "finger contact" or how long I hold contact, there is no response. This happens frequently recently. (I still can unlock the door using the unlock button on the remote though.)
2) sometimes, when I get into the car, with the key remote in my pocket, the center display will read "Key not in range" when I attempt to push the engine start button.
Number two has only happened to me twice.
The first occasion, I just pressed the button again and the car started no problem. The second occasion that this happened, I pushed the button again, and the engine attempted to turn over, without firing, and displaying the check engine light. The car started on the third try and was fine since.
Considerations: It's been cold lately where I am (Average ambient temperatures 35F and below). I have not tried to replicate these symptoms with the other remote. (Considering that perhaps the remote's battery is low.)
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What is the range on your remote to lock or unlock your truck?
Mine is currently 30 +/- feet I recently replaced the remote batteries and saw no improvement.
On my Toyota it is 200 +/- feet easily..
I am just trying to determine if a trip to the dealer is needed.
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I have a question for 11-15 Superduty, regarding the factory option remote door unlock and remote start. How far away does your system operate from?
Mine is good for only 50 ft or so MAX most of the time it won't work until about 15 ft from the truck. Been trying to get the dealer to look into it, but got told today that in the owners manual it is only good to 30 ft. Plus I randomly get a tire pressure sensor fault. The sensors are fine, but since the TPMS and door unlock/ remote start share the same antenna I think the 2 are related.
Since my 2011 would work from 100 yards most of the time I call B.S. on the 30ft. I feel that the new truck should work at least as good as my old one. Besides that 30ft is a complete waste, and virtually useless, in my opinion.
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Is there a way to do it? I've noticed if i'm coming directly at the side of the car, the range is alright, but if I'm coming towards it from the front/back, I have to be within 10 feet for it to work.
It's getting on my nerves and I'd like to be able to walk away from the car and lock it from a greater distance.
My MKV would do it from across the parking lot, the MKVI will barely do it if I'm standing right next to it. Whats the deal and how can I fix this?
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So I recently bought a 2004 R32 after owning like 5 other vw's (always wishing they were R's). Anyway, I am experiencing some humming noise... not quite a vibration, but the "humming" is strong enough that you can sort of feel it through the car. The "humming" happens at a range from about 30-60 mph and is only present when I'm turning left, or when there is more force on the passenger side of the car. When I'm going straight, it is very slight, but if I turn even slightly to my left it gets louder/stronger. When turning right and force is off the passenger side and on the driver side, the symptom is not present. It seems like it's coming from my front end as well, not rear.
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1543 miles on my 2010 Golf TDI. got out of the car and tried to lock it, and the lock didn't. When I got back in to start it, it kicked over then the display read "Key not in range" and the engine sputtered dead.? Had to walk home a few miles to get the spare key...my mistake for not carrying both sets...my previous car was an Acura, so I didn't really need to plan for electrical failure.
Anyhow, once I got my spare key and walked a few miles back, it worked just fine. Kicked right over, happy to see me. Good thing; I hate having a car with paper tags (still too new to have the actual plates) towed to the dealer.
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Yesterday morning my wife's JSW TDI wouldn't stay on after starting it. The screen kept displaying, "Key not in range". I swapped keys and every one of them did the same thing. It doesn't have keyless start, so it's not that. It would start then shut off like an immobilizer issue. I disconnected the battery terminal and reconnected it and that fixed it...for now. I did some research and everything I've found said the cluster needs replaced. I made a video of the display and the car shutting down.
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So my 2001 1.8t Golf is having some issues holding boost. I have a Gonzo stage 2 tune, CTS FMIC, Forge 008 Diverter, Silicone inlet and MagnaFlow Exhaust. I've also done the whole Evap, SAI delete and installed a catch can.
Starting in 2nd or 3rd at WOT the car spikes up to 18psi and then progressively loses boost throughout the rev range. Close to redline the boost drops to 5 psi or so. It seems to be dependent on the revs. In fifth gear the car holds 18 psi much longer as the revs don't increase as fast.
There are no CELs. I've done multiple leak tests starting at the air box and plugging the pcv/catch can system as well as at the compressor side of the turbo. None of the tests revealed a leak anywhere in the intake system. However, when I stuck my ear very close to the valve cover I could hear what sounded like a very small air leak coming from inside the valve cover. I took a look at the wastegate actuator and it seemed fine, no play in the rod, no loose bolts and to move it just requires enough force to compress the spring and it returned to its original position.
My thoughts are that it could be a fueling issue or turbo in the process of dying maybe.
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I have just this past week noticed that my rev needle is not smooth when coming down the range! It shudders and is annoying in that way that now i have seen it I cannot un see it!!
It is very smooth on the way up under acceleration.
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Yesterday I got the low fuel warning "Range 35 miles". I drove another 10 miles, then put 10.84 gallons in. That range warning seems really conservative, since the tank is 13 gallons. I wonder how many miles I *really* have after the car warns me. (I know it is affected by my speed, terrain, head winds, if AC is on, and so forth.) . Has to try driving til they ran out of gas after getting that low fuel warning?
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Lately my engine/coolant temp gauge has been screwing with me. It is either been almost at 190* or dead 90-100*
It seems to go up when in the lower RPM range (idle-2000) and goes down when in the higher range (4000-redline I suppose).
I stayed at or above 4000rpm on my way home from work for 3-4 minutes and it was almost at 90*...went to 5000 for 2 minutes, same thing. I shifted to 6th and it rushes to 190*.
So is my sensor bad or what?
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Ok so I'm having weird issues with my big turbo R. I thought I was having misfires in low rpm range. Car was stumbling and just not firing on all cylinders ( just an expression but that's what it felt like) realized it was because of the esp. Ok no the main issue. Vacuum was sitting around 14hg. When I come up to a light or stop sign or just put in neutral while moving it revs it self ad vacuum will go to almost 0hg until I come to a full stop.
The rev is not a big rev only like 100-150 rpm increase. Also the throttle response is not there if I go to rev match down shift. Here's the weird part. If I unplug the Maf it runs super smooth 19-20hg vacuum amazing throttle response clutch chatter almost goes away. There are no cel with or without the Maf plugged in I have logs for both...
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My CEL is on for P0116 Engine Coolant temp circuit, range or performance problem. I replaced the CTS, thermostat, and did a complete coolant flush/replacement last November. Car worked well over the winter no issues. Last week when the CEL came on it gave me P0301 and P0440 as well. I did a reset and the lights stayed off for the week. Then P0116 came back. Is it possible that the CTS is bad again? I measured the resistance on the CTS and hot it is about 300 ohms and cold is 2.45k ohms.
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I did a search and read the manual but I can't seem to figure it out. Is there a way to unlock all of the doors by pushing the unlock button on the key fob once? I see in the manual it can be done I think by turning "remote 2 - press unlock" on in the car settings but it doesn't seem to work. Also am I reading correctly that there are no door unlock sensors on the rear doors? With my LS and my old IS I could touch the rear doors and all of the doors would unlock but this can't be done on the GX?
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I noticed that there is no way to unlock the doors on my 2012 GTI without using the remote ... so it got me thinking what if we lost the remote keys & only had the valet key.
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Having an issue with the R's locks. Doors wont unlock from key fob but they do lock and trunk unlocks as well. Locks work from interior button as they should. Thinking I just need a new key fob.
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New owner of a '11 GTi. I got it in black ...
KESSY: I figured out how to close all windows when locking, but is there a way to open all windows on unlock? There seem to be options in the "Convenience" menu pertaining to window operation, but I don't really see any effect when switching them. The manual is less than useful on this...
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My key FOB only electronically unlocks/locks the doors it wont unlock the trunk and i can't actually use the key part to unlock the car or start the car. Is there a way to fix this besides getting a new key from a dealer since that is very expensive.
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I set up my euro switch and turned off drl and turned on leaving home but my lights don't turn on when I unlock and it's on in the MFI. What's the problem!?
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Soooo the other day i killed my battery, went to get a jump- and after I was running again, i went to unlock my doors and only my driver side door would unlock via my key fob.
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