Golf/GTI VI :: Car Wasn't Turning On
May 24, 2012
A month ago, it didn't start out of the blue. When I went over to try to start it, it wasn't turning. Seemed like the battery died. It's under warranty so the dealer came and picked it up. They called the next day and said that it started without any issues.
Today, my gf made it to work, but when tried to start it again, it wouldn't start. She got it towed again. The dealer called and said they were able to start it without any problems. We told them that we had the problem and was concerned. Then they responded with they have to keep the car for a couple of days to do some testing. Now my gf is out of a car for the next two days.
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Well my a/c stopped blowing cold last week so I took it to an a/c shop and they said it was really low on freon. The guy recharged it and we noticed the driver side fan wasn't turning on. Said that it was causing to much pressure and it was blessing it off causing the loss of freon. So I came home and put it on the lift to check out the fans. I unplugged the fans from the bottom side below the fcm and the pass side fan comes on with a 12v source but when I put power to the other plug (drivers side fan) there's nothing across the high or low side. Guessing the fan is toast right? Just making sure before I order a new fan. What's all involved in replacing the fan? Also I've read the vw fans have a resistor that are known for burning out. Should I go with oem or a different brand from ecs?
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I put some 10mm hubcentric spacers from Avenue Autosport on the front of my car and got some slight vibration like the wheel wasn't centered very well. I decided to take them off to make sure they were the source of the vibration, and the car seems to ride a bit better/smoother in general without them (and the vibration when away).
I noticed that they didn't fit as tightly as my 15mm ECS spacers that I have in the rear, and my question is: are these spacers crappy in some way and I should order 10mm spacers from ECS, or are spacers in general not a great idea for the front wheels if you want your car to feel perfectly smooth and tight.
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So I was driving just a second ago, stopped to get something and where I was parked I had to leave my hazards running. I had them on for a minute at most and when I got back in the hazard button was smoking. I turned it off and blew in the gap as much as possible.
The smoking stopped. Now neither my hazards or blinkers work. I haven't had a chance to check fuses yet. Wanted to see what people thought or if they'd had similar experience ASAP. Will update with finding when I can.
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Upon putting on my winter wheel i was checking if the bolts were too long and my rear passenger side wheel wasn't spinning. I took the wheel off and checked the rotor and it took a lot of force to spin because the caliper didn't go back. I took the brake fluid line out hoping it would decompress the caliper and it did not, and brake fluid leaked out a tiny bit. This leads me to believe that my caliper is bad. Just want to make sure before I order another one
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My wife's 2007 wasn't cooling very well. I put a gauge on it and it was slightly low so I added a can of R134. Cooled better for a (very) short time. Now it doesn't cool at all.
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So I finally got to drive my Tig 4Mo in the snow for the first time and I had some really interesting experiences. On 4 separate occasions the rear end decided to just break loose on me!
The first time I was going downhill and I had the car in auto stick and kept it in 2nd so I wouldn't have to use the brakes and im rolling along the rear starts swinging left! I counter and recover and thought ok well maybe auto stick isn't good in the snow. So I keep it in "D" for the rest of the drive and I'm chugging along no faster than 25 mph on a flat and there she goes again to the right this time... I let off the gas and counter again this time I notice the TCS start flashing as I'm recovering...
Its weird cause I wasn't on the gas anymore unlike with my 01 jetta which would only flash if I was actually accelerating....so this happens 2 more times along the way. Every time it happend I wasn't on the gas hard and I was able to recover but I'm extremely confused as to why this would EVER happen. I've driven many awd cars before in the snow and NEVER has the rear just jumped out on me without me REALLY trying to break the rear loose and it usually required a sharp turn of the wheel to do so. I was driving straight as an arrow every time she broke loose and I was barely on the gas (and not even on the gas the first time). Am I going crazy or is the something wrong with my Tig?
On a side note my TPM light is on (but all tires are fine) maybe this is bugging the computer out or something?
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So I replaced my turbo about 2 years ago give or take and maybe 15-20k miles on it since. The last few weeks my car has been running some what weird so i decided to bring it to the shop. The guy thinks its my turbo but its hard for me to believe. Here are the symptoms it was having..
1) Lose of power
2) When I was on the high way i would floor it and it just wouldn't go. It would accelerate after 60 mph and it would almost be at a stand still. A few times it almost lost power completely and i had the pedal to the ground and it was decelerating.
3) When I would drive the car would sputter and jerk like almost it wasn't getting gas.
4) After a overnight where it was shut off, the next day i would go turn it on and it would barely turn over and it would be rough for a few seconds.
5) The exhuast/muffler after accelerating would pop
6) I don't hear my turbo spooling as loud and as much as it use to.
Could this be some sort of sensor or even the fuel pump? I feel that it wouldn't have some of these issues if it was the turbo compared to something else.
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I was installing my hellwig sway bar on my X. and noticed one of my read shocks wasn't screwed in. when I looked closer I noticed the bolts were different sizes. The nut that holds the larger one is missing. are these parts that are included with new shocks or can I buy them. here is a pic of the shock removed. I'd like to get it fixed up properly ideally today.
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It's a 2002 Pt Cruiser. I think it's the ball bearing but I don't really know. Car got stuck in some snow a few days ago and we were unable to get it out even after digging it out from the snow.. Seemed like the right tire wasn't spinning or gripping. We got someone to pull us out and it's driving fine, no problems but when I try to drive up our driveway that has a slight hill, it is having troubles and barely makes it up and seems like the right tire is vibrating and not spinning properly. There is no humming noise. Just a vibrating when trying to drive up my icy muddy driveway. Could this be something else besides a bearing? I'll be making an appt with my mechanic tomorrow but typically it's a one week wait to see him and I have to work this week so can't just not drive it.
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My husband and I have a 2007 Yaris (purchased new in May '07) with 23,300 miles on it. He's super-religious about taking the car in and getting it serviced and maintained regularly. But we noticed a few days ago that the A/C wasn't putting out cold air. My first thought is that it's simply out of freon and needs to be serviced.
But it just seems odd (or at least to this know-nothing!) that it could be out of freon already. My husband mainly drives it and says he doesn't run the air "any more than anyone else." Is it possible that even at 14 months it's just simply out of freon? I've never heard of a car's A/C system running out of freon so quickly.
Also, we were out of town for a week; the car wasn't driven during that time. We noticed the problem the first time we drove it upon returning home. That couldn't have anything to do with it, could it?
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So from the beginning the car wasn't coming on. It gave me error "p" said my parking break was not working properly and needed to be on a flat surface in order to work. We jumped it and replaced the battery shortly after that. The car will turn on but the actual engine is not turning on. The display screen has a little car with a red exclamation going through it. The dashboard also has all the lights on. We have tried to jump it from the relay at this point but it wont start now to where before it would.
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My a/c was blowing but the air wasn't cold. No freon, so the dealer loaded up with freon containing a tracer. After a week, the tracer is coming out of the evaporator drain only, which implicates the evaporator as the source of the leak.
I just hit 150K miles and was extolling my repair free existence, when I had to do the front struts, brakes, and new tires (again); followed by this. Can't find a reference to evaporator leaks anywhere (a lot of mold maybe, but nothing requiring replacement. Did my luck just run out, or is this more common than I think?
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1990 Dodge Ram Van.... How hard is this to fix. Some Guys in Los Banos took two days to replace a fuel pump. End result, new pump not grounded so continually drains battery unless I mess with a fuse everytime I start/stop car.
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Last week while on the highway I noticed my AC was not blowing cold. It was set to the lowest temperature and at the lowest fan setting. The air had gone from cold to room temperature and the AC button light was flashing/blinking.
I pressed the button, it lit up solid and it started blowing cold again. Two minutes later the air went back to room temperature and the light was flashing again.
It worked fine for a few days and then it happened again Saturday. I noticed the air wasn't coming out cold and see that the AC button is blinking. I tap it solid and it starts blowing cold again only this time it stayed cold for the rest of the 20 minute drive. What could be going on here?
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I have 2006 GS 300. Check Engine and VSC Light came on after car wasn't shifting properly. The codes are P0761 and P2714. Dealer claimed transmission fluid was low said they drain and refilled the fluid. Transmission does not have a leak, so I didn't understand why they claimed the fluid was low. Car ran fine for a day then issue came back. The codes refer to shift selenoids.
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Took my car in for oil/filter change and in some odd circumstance, the young mechanic managed to drain 1 liter of transmission oil out of my car (which I didn't know at the time). After driving for 10 minutes (~5 km), I noticed my reverse gear wasn't shifting properly. After ~30 minutes of driving, my car was smoking from the exhaust pipe (turns out he had overfilled my engine oil too!!). Took the car back in to complain the mechanic supervisor claims my transmission is still fine and all I need to do is refill the lost fluid. Another independent mechanic later tells me my transmission line is likely fried if I had experienced what I did, and those guys should be responsible to replace everything. Since fluids have been topped up, I have no proof of who is right. So my question is, if I only drove for maximum 50 km after my transmission fluid was drained and engine oil overfilled, would that be enough to cause serious damage to the car?
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I have a 2012 truck that the AC wasn't blowing cold air this summer so I took it in and they said nothing was wrong... Took back in and they replaced vent control... worked a little bit. Fall came and my windows fog up and really never clears up so I take it in and they said it is blowing hot air but I told them that isn't the problem but the moister in the cab is the problem. I feel I'm getting the run around.
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I recently put back my stock haldex and since then I keep having my esp light turning on and remaining on. If I turn the car off for a while, and turn it back on, it is gone and then comes back and stays on.
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I am new to the r32 platform just acquired a car and have a few concerns hoping I can get them resolved. So I notice while turning left or right at slower speeds I have a very bad vibration similar to a car with a welded rear differential.
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When I start the car I can hear (the engine I think?) squeak only while it's turning over, not after it has started. I also hear this squeak when I put it in park, reverse and drive. I don't hear it while the car is running, so I'm thinking maybe it's the motor mounts?
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