Golf/GTI VI :: Car Start Then Stutters
May 25, 2011
Well this happened way too many time already. I would turn on my car and sometimes it starts right up, other times it attempt to start then stutters (if that makes sense, imagine as if the battery were disconnected during start up) then resumes with an ESP Error on the dash. I would say this happened to me more than 10 times.
And also, why I get a "Brake Error" as well, that would be great. It hasn't popped up in a while but it showed up and vanished within seconds.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
My Passat stutters on start-up and the engine light comes on.... took it to a vw dealer they ran tests and said nothing was wrong with the car, yesterday the engine light was off all day it was fine then some days like today it comes back on.... its a 2001 b5.5 1.8 T with 59,500 miles, manual tranny? I mean i get the oil changed every 3k miles, using synthetic oil, air/fuel/oil filters i always change every 3k miles with the oil change, i also got a tune-up at 45k miles and get the tranny flushed and new tranny oil every 15k miles, I dunno whats up with my passat...
View 12 Replies
A 2005 Kia Spectra 5 with 252,000 miles will occasionally not start. In the AUX position I get lights, dash, radio. Turn to START, and there is dead silence. No clicks, stutters, or attempt to start. New starter last year. Would like to get one more year from car before replacing. My car guys cannot get it to repeat this at the shop. After attempting up to 15 times, the car fires up just like nothing happened. Maybe unrelated..the door locks will randomly lock themselves when you are walking away from the car.
View 7 Replies
23,800 miles. Cruising up Hwy. When EPC and Check Engine light both come on for about 1 second, car stutters, then it's back to normal. Never happened before.
Check for codes with VAG-COM and nothing registered. I did notice a strange like-a-clock-ticking sound coming from the center console area as I had the key in the ignition while checking my ECU with VAG-COM. Didn't sound horrible, but it was a sound that I don't recall ever hearing before.
Could this be the start of something that is about to get worse?
View 15 Replies
So I leave town Friday with the wife's car for a golf tournament that is 4 hours away. I left her with my 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat 4x4 5.4L. She calls as I am starting my practice round on Friday stating that the truck had died on her in the local Dillons parking lot. She had driven to the east side of Wichita, then drove all the way back to the west side before swinging into Dillons to get some chinese food for lunch. When she gets in the truck to leave, she starts it and it runs rough.
She gave it gas and it ran fine for a few seconds, she put it in drive, and then it started running rough again. She stopped the truck in the parking stall ahead of her, turned it off, and restarted it. Same thing...runs rough. She tried giving it gas, but it would not go above 1500 rpm. Then it just died on her. She then tried cranking it, but it would not turn over. She let it sit overnight and got a ride from a friend (it was 102 degrees out), went back the next morning to try again. Same thing, just cranks. So I get back last night and go up with my scanner. No codes, no SES/CEL.
So, I am now thinking it is the fuel pump. I crawled underneath the truck and had her turn the key so I could see if I can hear the fuel pump. Nothing. I went ahead and disconnected the battery to let it sit overnight.
I am about to head up there and see what I can do. So far, here is my list of things I need to check:
1. Fuel pump relay #301
2. Fuel pump fuse #18
3. Check for the theft light
4. Check "inertia switch" on the passenger side kick panel
5. OPEN gas cap and listen for the fuel pump (had never heard of that one)
6. Hit the gas tank a few times with a rubber mallet to "jar" the fuel pump (again, never heard of that one).
My question to all of you is: Am I missing anything else? Alos, with it running perfect, then running rough and suddenly dying, would is necessarily be the fuel pump? I had read something about a "Fuel Pump Module" located near the spare tire. Is that something I should check into with it running rough (well, not running at all now) like this?
View 7 Replies
I have a 2005 Camry that is not leaking coolant (checking water level every morning) it has a puff of white smoke the first start of the day. I initially suspected condensation, as it only produces white smoke when temperature goes down to 65 degrees or cooler during the night.
However the longer it sits without starting, greater the amount of smoke. If I do not start the car at all on Saturday and on Sunday afternoon I start it, there is a lot more white smoke than I get every morning during weekdays. If it was condensation, by Sunday afternoon when temp isn't as cool, shouldn't all the water collecting evaporated?
Assuming it is condensation, what part failing would cause this? This car did not have this white smoke issue when it was new.
Not sure if it is related but the engine stutters on the first start of the day. Stutter also gets worse the colder the temp and the longer it's been sitting without starting. During summer when it's 85+, it does not stutter in the morning.
View 3 Replies
I replaced the coilpack from the dealer last Summer. It got better as it wouldn't even start for a while after it finished raining. However it has still been finicky even after replacing it. Which brings me to the realization that water runs down the fender panel and ends up on the ground cable located under and to the right of the battery. Am I correct that this would cause the same symptom as a bad coil pack? It seems simple...move the cable right? However should water be doing that? Cause this little sucker is not stopping anything. Just need validation I guess...get new hood insert?
View 5 Replies
Okay I have a 2001 Vw Jetta 1.8t Wolfsberg.
I have done a few mods:
- Oil catch can
- Boost gauge
- New turbo (5000 miles old)
- Brake booster mod
- PCV system fixed and some hose deletes (that make the intake manifold have one line off of it rather than two)
- Timing belt/ pulleys
- Accessory belt / pulley
- A few other things but nothing to cause this
The car will do this randomly. And I mean once every two weeks of that. I will go to accelerate and the boost gauge says the "boost" is at zero and no matter how much I give it gas, it won't go past zero and stutters. But it stops almost as fast as it starts. I don't get it...
My catch can has 3/4" line to about 1/2" or so, that meets the oil catch can. (Ebay with the blue hose.) I have new plugs, all new (dealership recommended) lubes, all kinds of new small odds and ends. But it's never done this before. (3rd time now in a month..)
View 9 Replies
The car is an 02 gti. I am having problems at full boost(17 psi) where the car starts to stutter, backfire, and eventually drops to 5 psi. Throttle up to 15 psi is always smooth and there is no hesitation or misfires. It's chipped but I am unaware of which software as it was already on the car when purchased.
What I've done:
Checked for any leaks - none
Cleaned maf
Replaced plugs(0.028) and coils which was needed anyways
Coil harnesses look good
Fuel filter changed
I've read about the n75 but I am not experiencing any surge issues that many have described. I do believe the car is running a little rich because I can smell some fumes but it is very light. Car fires up just fine and idles smoothly.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2004 Volvo S40. For the past few summers, when it gets hot out, especially if the car is sitting in direct sun, when I get back into the car to start it up it stutters and often won't move when I press the gas pedal. I have taken it to several mechanics and they never fix it. When it's really hot, sometimes it will stutter when I am stopped at a light and threaten to shut off. So, what is going on?!?
View 2 Replies
My car recently got a code for the camshaft sensor after my car died in the middle of street and the engine light turned on. I had gotten it replaced. In fact, I had both (left and right) camshaft sensors replaced and we changed out the crankshaft sensor as well. Then, a new problem comes up.
My car does not accelerate as strongly as it used to. In first gear (car is automatic), my car seems to struggle to get in 2nd gear. Imagine the feeling of your car when you keep it in 1st gear (in a stick-shift) and you KNOW that's the point of having to shift into 2nd, but you keep driving anyway. Then, once it does shift gears, my car jolts forward with a big drop in RPM. Imagine the feeling of finally shifting your manual transmission into 2nd gear and feeling that "relief" in the engine as it doesn't seem to struggle anymore. What's worse is that at higher speeds/gear my Pathfinder won't go beyond 4000 RPM. I'm driving at around 65 mph and the car is at 2500 RPM. When it hits 4000 RPM, the RPM just ticks before it and my car stutters back and forth as if I'm playing a beat with my car by hitting the breaks.
An example scenario, I'm driving on the highway and there's a slower car in front of me. I just want to pass the person and be on my way but as I press on the gas, my RPMs don't really increase as it normally would when applying more gas to go faster. Once I do finally get to 4000 RPM, my car starts to stutter or rock back and forth as if hitting an invisible wall. Are there tons of reasons that this could happen?
On the other hand, I tested my car, in park, to see if my engine would rev pass 4000 RPM, and it does. So, the problem presents itself only when I'm driving.
View 5 Replies
The car starts easily when the motor is cold. If I park the car for 30 minutes and then restart the motor, the following happens:
1. Motor turns over
2. Motor stutters and stops
3. I press down on gas pedal and turn ignition on-it starts with a little stutter
View 4 Replies
Just bought a 2010 Prius... Anyways... I have noticed that at steady speed (mainly higher speed) I feel a very slight power stutter (though that may not be the best word here). Not enough to change the speedometer reading, but I can feel it a little... of course I'm very sensitive to these sorts of things since it's a used car and I have only a 30 day window to identify any problems. It feels like maybe it's working out the gas:elec ratio it wants to use, which would seem normal. It's all drive-by-wire right?
View 13 Replies
I have a 1999 Town and Country van, 3.8L engine. It has 220K miles on it. Lately, when I am accelerating, it seems to do fine until I get to 40-55 mph. In that range, it stutters a bit. After that it runs fine, even at higher speeds. I usually don't get this stuttering at the lower speeds as I am, for example, accelerating to get on a highway. A mechanic friend of mine says that it may be a vac leak. Does this sound right, or are there other possibilities.
View 3 Replies
MY 07 passat 2.0t stutters til it warms up. Took it in to vw and they replace the plugs and coils but it still does it. Engine light stays on says 2 cylinder misfires. Its stops after 5 mins but when it sits for awhile it starts again. it has 110,000 miles thought maybe it could be carbon buildup?
View 6 Replies
So my wife's 2002 Passat, 1.8T, is acting weak on the interstate. Under passing conditions, it seems to lose power, and even stutters a little. Cruising and idle are both fine.
It has blinked the check engine light at me a few times when the stuttering happens, but when I check for codes, there are none stored. I replaced the plugs and coil packs about a year and a half ago.
View 3 Replies
In a nutshell I have an '06 Taurus that is pretty mint -108k miles - but the other day when driving home the car stuttered at about 40 mph, just as it was shifting into Overdrive. My heart sank because I was afraid my transmission was busted. Continued until I got home.
The next morning I took the car out cold and nothing, car shifted like it was fresh from the factory. I said Ok, but I noticed the rpm needle wasn't steady with the tiniest fluctuation between 500 and 600 rpm while idle.
So, I go for a drive later and the car is driving and shifting well but there is a hum sound from the front passenger side of the rear of the engine compartment. The car is still driving and shifting well. Then, after driving enough to get the car up to temperature, the car stutters again at 40 mph and when shifting into Overdrive.
I've confirmed, over the past few days, the car runs perfectly when cold and the car only stutters when shifting into Overdrive when warm, as I can drive the car in low gear at any temperature all over town with no problems.
View 12 Replies
I have a problem I have been struggling with for the last year.... Here are the main symptoms:
- Engine stutters and sometime stalls ONLY in 3rd and 4th gear
- 1st and 2nd gear has NEVER given us a problem
- The outside temperature has to be above 75 degrees. The truck ran great all winter, but last week with the first warm day, acted up again
- There has to be a sizable load (6 adults, full tank of gas)
- gets much worse going up hills (again load)
Not sure if it is related but one time in the winter, the truck stopped blowing heat. If I turned off the fan, the system would "build up" heat but then as soon as I turned it back on, the heat would stay for maybe 30 seconds and then fizzle out back to cold air. This happened only on the coldest day of the year. The heat has been decent the rest of the time.
Last year they replaced the crankshaft position sensor like 4 times, then claimed it was the ECM, replaced that and it still acted up. Then they finally said it was some corrosion in the wiring harness. However by the time they got through with it, it got cold enough outside where it didn't act up any more.
View 6 Replies
My car is just about at 60k, and I'm really starting to notice that its not the same. Power is not all there, steering is really loose, suspension has definitely begun to sag, it has rattles, the transmission slips and stutters...maybe it is all a sign.
View 19 Replies
99, 1.8T, 215K:: Drove 10 minutes fine, turned off, turned back on, stumbling to get an idle...stays steady at 900RPM (normal enough), but engine shutters, hard to accelerate (slow pickup), a bit louder... (limp-home mode)
I am thinking Air mass meter based off of old SAAB Turbo experience, and am going to get it plugged in to check codes.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2012 Ford Focus with automatic transmission with about 22k miles on it. No check engine lights on. When accelerating from standstill it always stutters a little as if it's not really 'catching on' properly (just in "first gear" it seems). It doesn't do it once you're beyond 5 - 10 mph and it doesn't do it either when for instance stepping on the gas pedal while driving. Only from standstill. It also doesn't seem to go away when the car has been driven for a little while. It's always there. What could be causing this?
View 4 Replies
