Golf/GTI VI :: CIM Center Dash Vent Boost Gauge Goes From -30 To 30?
Sep 27, 2014
I ordered the gauge kit, installed it with the printed out DIY (CIMs)
Looks great, everything is tight, no leaks. All power going to the gauge (even the dimmer).
When power is connected via the plug in the back of the gauge, the needle goes from -30 to 30, full swing like some newer vehicles, not when the car is turned on.
Here's the problem, is doesnt read anything. Sits at -30 at idle, rev (limiter) and under load. The DIY says it should be somewhere around -20 at idle.
The only thing I can think of is the pressure sending unit is broken. I know faulty equipment is not uncommon and I'm not mad if that is the case as long as it gets resolved, I just want to get this thing working. This is NOT a bash against CIM either, I don't want anyone getting the wrong idea.
Also, I used a forge boost tap. Everything tight, and secure, no leaks going to the filter, or the 4" hose from filter to psi sending unit. Did I miss anything that's not in the write up? Early 11 model DSG MKVI
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The driver and passenger side were no problems at all, but the center vent is giving me trouble. I've seen the how-to, but can't get it to pop out. I don't really have a proper screwdriver, at home, to push up on the two clips on the top inside of the vent, but I used a hard plastic interior trim removal tool, while prying at the top with another. I have left the bottom controls in as I can't pull the left side buttons out enough to disconnect them while the vent is still in.
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I know this is a long shot but experienced a rattle coming from the center vent section and have a fix for it? Normally small rattles don't bother me, and it's a VW, but it's loud enough that I can hear it over the radio, so it's particularly annoying.
I took the headunit and vent out, tried to tighten the screws that secures the structure that holds the headunit in and looked around, didn't see anything. If you apply pressure to the top of the center vent it makes the rattle go away too.
So at this point, I'll have to take it into the dealer unless someone has a found a fix for it. 3,000 miles and three problems that have required trips to the dealership /end rant
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Was driving back home from shopping tonight and my truck was making a lot of noise when I tried to accelerate. I noticed the boost gauge on the dash was stuck at 35psi but the MiniMaxx showed 0psi.
No engine light so I babied it home which was about 30mins driving and managed to accelerate slowly to avoid the engine rattling. I didn't want to shut it down and restart in case it wouldn't start again for some reason.
When I got home I idled until EGT was <300F like I normally do (it never went over 700F when I was driving home) and then restarted it. The gauges worked fine, MiniMax showed boost and the engine revved freely with no rattling noise. I haven't taken it out for a road test, I'll do that when it's daylight.
Bad sensor somewhere? I would think if the turbo had failed it wouldn't have been fine after a restart.
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Okay, here's the car
AWP 1.8t mk4 GTI.
- stock DP
- Forge 007 splitter adjusted 25 clicks
- Swiss cheese stock intake with k&N high flow
- APR stage 1 93 tune.
My boost gauge is currently reading peak of about 15-16 psi. I replaces some vacuum hoses that appeared to be worn, and to no avail. I have no CEL, and no codes thrown at all. This sound like a boost leak.
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Bought a 1.8t 04 gli. Was boosting 15 pounds so i did a boost leak test. Found pcv up hose from valve to y pipe at valve cover was almost blown in half, so i replace all of that stuff with oem.
Boost leak test again, found where boost gauge is hooked up to, turbo outlet to n75, the hose was leaking, i fixed that.
Boost leak test yet again, n75 was not clamped down, so clamped that.
Boost leak test one last time, held 10 psi before blowing the cap out of the intake. Which is pretty dangerous, my cap is made out of a spray can cut in half. Sounds like a canon. Anyways i heard zero leaks.
So now I am boosting 18psi and holding perfectly fine. Why I am showing ZERO vacuum on my boost gauge??
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I plan on fitting it this weekend along with my oil pressure gauge.
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Do I need to get an inline restrictor (cotton swab, filter or otherwise) to eliminate this fluttering noise?
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I own a 2004 Jetta 1.8t, about 6 months ago i had an oil leak problem and a cracked vacuum line. i fixed the oil leak and fixed the cracked line with 034 motor sports pcv hose kit. I snapped 2 more vacuum lines and repaired them with rubber hose. p0300, p0301, p0507, p0171, p0303. Are the codes I am currently having actually have had them for just over 6 months. I've replaced all plugs, I've upgraded to ecs tuning 2.0 coils. No fix, went back to oem coils which I am using now. It runs pretty good until i clear the codes. Then idles all over the place and the boost gauge bounces all over.
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It does feel a bit off, but for as far as I know the gauge could be messed up now.
Just wondering if there would be any immediate signs (sounds etc...) of whether there would be a leak, or what other problems may cause this.
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My boost gauge is bouncing around during the flutter at peak psi? I have a apr stg 2 evoms intake and full tbe exhaust 42dd...
Here is a exact video of the flutter i am talking about [URL] ....
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Recently ran into an issue where my boost gauge stopped reading correctly and makes a weird buzzing sound under acceleration. (Whenever I am generating positive boost).
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I have a strange rattle from the center vent. This happens only at idle when at light or stop sign. If I move shift to N the rattle stops. This happens after car is warmed up to operating temp. seems like maybe the idle is a bit low. I have 35k miles.
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I had the A/C on with the outside air circulation on and i saw some smoke from the center passenger vent. is this normal? once i switched to inside air circulation the smoke went away.
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