Golf/GTI VI :: CEL On With Code P0101 After Apr K04 Upgrade
Mar 9, 2015
So i recently upgraded to a apr k04 from a apr stage2 tune and I'm getting a P0101 CEL. I've triple checked all my piping, and sensors, everything is nice and tight. I did however install the turbo with a GFB DV+ using the spring. Do you guys think the fact that the spring in the DV+ holds an amount air in the intercooler that it's throwing off the readings with the MAP and causing that CEL? I was going to give it a week or so and maybe see if the ECU can adjust itself enough to the DV+ and hopefully solve the problem. If not then i guess ill check for more leaks, but i doubt there is any. Boost holds real good throughout the whole rpm range...
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I started my a while ago and the rpm needle was going up and down non stop and the car was jumping a slight bit, I plug it into my scanner and got code P0101 what does this mean...
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This past Sunday, I replaced the spark plugs on my 2008 Toyota Camry CE, following one of the sticky DIYs. My car has approximately 107,xxx miles.
Last night on my drive home from work my CEL came on. First time seeing a CEL light since my BMW days, . Luckily, I have a OBDII scanner at home and after running the scanner, it gave me the following trouble codes:
- P0101
- P0172
I went ahead cleaned the air filter (I have an Injen SRI installed).
After doing some research on the interwebs, I have concluded that this code has to do with the MAF. Time permitting, I am going to clean the MAF sensor later tonight. In the meantime I reset the CEL, to see if it will come on again.
My only question, which I am unable to find an answer to, is:
Can there be a possibility that the P0101 and P0172 trouble codes be related to me replacing the spark plugs, or is this just a mere coincidence?
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I had the 2010 Camry I-4 in the dealer last week for the 40K service. They told me I needed fuel injector cleaning and a throttle body housing cleaning which I had done. This afternoon the check engine light came on and at the same time the Slip Indicator light came on.
I ran by Auto-Zone to have them pull the code for the check engine light and it was P0101 which AZ says is Mass or Volume Airflow circuit range and listed probable causes as:Open or short circuit condition, MAF/VAF sensor failure, or Faulty ECM. I called the dealer for an appointment Thursday morning and told him the story and asked if the throttle body or injector cleaning could cause the mass air flow problem. He said "probably not". He also told me that when the Check Engine light comes on the Slip indicator light automatically comes on to show that the VSC is not working while the check engine light is on.
My question is, could the cleaning cause the P0101 and if so what info do I need to argue the case with the dealer? Or, are they unrelated systems?
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So I have a 1996 Chevy Lumina (3.1L V6 engine) and I keep getting a DTC code P0101, which is a Mass Airflow Sensor malfunction. It's rather annoying because every time this happens, my engine shuts off. I'm talking no power steering, no power breaks, no acceleration, nothing. So I replaced the mass airflow sensor and it continues to stop about every five minutes. However, it does something odd and that is that the car drives just fine when it's in Overdrive and stops when it's in regular drive. I don't know if that's important, but I thought it might diagnose the problem.
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Got a CEL a couple days ago and had it scanned by the dealer. Threw two codes:
p0068 - throttle position correlation
p0101 - mass or volume air flow circuit range performance intermittent
The dealer thought the MAF was dying or dead. I replaced it with a Bosch one from ECS Tuning this afternoon. I went for a test drive around the block but it seems that the problem persists. The idling seems rough, almost like there is a misfire or something. Perhaps on a related note I am still running the original battery that came with the car. I asked the dealer about the battery when they checked the MAF and they said the voltage was low and they recommended replacing it before winter. Is it possible that the battery is dying and it's throwing these two codes?
The service manager said to drive it a few days to see if the CEL clears itself or have it cleared (they can do it or I can do it via borrowing someone's VCDS). I'm tempted to just go and get another battery tonight and install it and see if that's the problem.
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Not real familiar with this code, given that my check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and they detected some errors and these codes appeared.
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Installed Forge Twintake on my GTI, CBFA engine code. Have had it installed for 2 weeks now, it was running funny ever since, idling was weird and every time I shifted I felt it through the clutch. Throttle response and acceleration was fine though. Yesterday driving to work the CEL came on, I scanned it today and got P0101 MAF VAF and got P150A idle speed control. I was thinking about cleaning the MAF sensor to see if that was the problem but it doesn't seem like that would solve the problem of it running weird. Was also considering reinstalling the stock intake and seeing how it ran then and or if the CEL went off.
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I'm a little bummed that the only thing that shows in the mfd in my 2011 Jetta SE is the time, outside temp, fuel, and total/trip miles.
Is it possible to upgrade to the one I'm guessing comes in the SEL?
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However, my fuel pump seems to be having a small issue intermittently. So I was wondering if you can upgrade the fuel pump without upgrading anything else? Is that acceptable or would it mess things up? I plan on getting the DTM kit in the future.
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just got a clutch job done. old clutchmasters was slipping so i went with a used southbend stage 2. the clutch was used for 3,000 miles or so and it belonged to the owner of the shop where i got it done. he guaranteed me that the noise was fine, but my father thinks differently. only makes noise when clutch is disengaged. if i press the clutch pedal. the noise goes away.
he shop resused my old stock flywheel but swapped out the clutchdisk and pressure plate. not sure if he switched out the throw out bearing.
is this normal in a higher stage clutch? its worth noting that all weird noises aside, the clutch shifts very smooth compared to my beat up CM kit (never buying anything from CM again) i cant test to see if it holds since ive only driven 50 miles on it
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I recently flashed my car and not to happy about it. For me the car feels a little different than stock. My exhaust is louder and when I start the car now is doesn't start from high revs down to low anymore. I think I'm going to take it back and remove the software from the car. I personally don't like the feel as to stock.
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I have a standard 2012 MK VI Golf (US), with the standard plastic steering wheel (no buttons)
I recently bought a leather steering wheel (with airbag and MFSW harness) which came off from a 2010 MK VI Golf TDI
My goal is to have a leather steering wheel (having the Steering wheel buttons function correctly can come later) so i am not upgrading the control module at this time....so......
I did the swap... (so i pulled the stock SW and airbag out....installed the TDI SW and airbag with the MFSW harness that came with it) all lights are off (after driving it and turning the steering wheel all the way left/right) but the horn is not working....
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I hear it's a problem on the Mk VI. Is there anything you can do or upgrade to eliminate the problem ... especially considering that it goes out of warranty after 5 years.
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The 2010 JSW si identical to VW Golf MkVI in respect of interior and controls. Unfortunately TDI trim is not available with dual zone climatronic - I ended up with manual Climatic control.
I compared the climatic and climatronic panels for MkVI and found out that the back side connectors looks compatible - the only difference is that Manual Climatic has dummy data communication port (I checked it physically myself after dismantling the panel) and has only one control output socket (The climatronic panel has two exactly the same identical sockets - dual zone control I suppose).
A simple swap of other control panels will work to provide single zone automatic operation of air condition system in my 2010 VW JSW TDI?
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So my strut mounts are shot and I wanted to add adjustable rear control arms to eliminate tire wear. So thinking of going with Bilstein HD's with the stock springs. Oh and BTW want to keep stock ride height since it is my daily. The only option I would consider for springs would be the euro version of the stock springs.
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I am having an issue after my intake install, it was working fine all day and last night i get a light on the dash bored (looks like the one when you take off the esp) and I get this:
code 16485 Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) Implausible Signal : P0101
Static - No
What could be the cause of this because i ran this intake before no issues I only took it off and put the stock intake back in due to the rain but now since the rain is gone i decided to switch
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The check engine light on my 2006 Toyota Camry LE with 95,300 miles came up. The codes that came up on my diagnostic tool were p0011, p0101, and p0113. The code meanings are as follows:
p0011: refers to the VVT (variable valve timing) or VCT (variable camshaft timing) components and the car's power control module
p0101: problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit
p0113: possibly issues with the Intake Air Temperature Sensor
How to solve the issue and get that annoying check engine light off?
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I have a standard radio/CD player on my T-reg. I have a friend who recently bought the Toureg Nav system in Germany. Can I have mine upgraded? What do I need to do?
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How to upgrade the maps in the GPS. I have a 2010 GS350. Is it a do it yourself task after you purchase the disc/usb...
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I need more stopping power. Is there a front caliper setup that you guys are using to get better brake performance? Either a direct bolt-in swap from a heavier vehicle (F350??) or a completely new aftermarket setup??
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