Golf/GTI VI :: CEL On And Throwing Code P2400 For The Second Time
Mar 10, 2014
I am stage 1 tuned and just have simple bolt ons. About a year and a half ago i had my CEL come on and it was P2400. I was still under warranty and took it into the dealer. They ran through the whole eval system along with replace my evap pump and the CEL was still on. Well then they replaced the ECU and all was fixed. that following fall i took it to APR to get ref lashed and all was well. Until 2 weeks ago. The CEL is back on throwing the same code. I believe its the ECU again and I'm waiting to get into APR to have them fix whatever it is. They believe its evap but I'm not convinced.
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I own a 2003 VW Jetta GLS 2.0L 4 Cylinder and my CEL recently came on throwing the PO420 code (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)). So I replaced both the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. Well just one day after replacing the sensors the CEL came back on with the same code. I was wondering weather or not I should replace the whole catalytic converter or if there was anything else I should try. The car runs fine, exactly how it did when I bought it.
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I have a 03 GLI 24v VR6 thats throwing a P0113 code, which is for the intake air temperature sensor. The sensor is part of the MAF sensor, ive tried 2 brand new BOSCH MAF sensors yet the same check engine continues to reoccur. Is there anything else that oculd be triggering it to come on? Is there anyway to bypass/disable it through vagcom?
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Last weekend I installed a usp test pipe with a hfc welded in and now I am throwing the code p0160......
What this is and maybe some ways that I can fix it?? I have a hard time believing an o2 sensor is shot since the car only has ~27k miles....
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A couple months ago I was hearing a hissing noise under the hood throwing the same code replaced the Valve cover, after there was no issues. Yesterday saw I had CEL and I was throwing P0174 code and there is a similar vacuum leak sound coming from under the hood but the Breather in the valve cover is not sucking in air. The Oil cap comes off but the engine starts to bog, what it could be now?
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I'm working on a 2003 Jetta GLI 1.8t (MT and 140,000m if it matters). The CEL has been on for a couple of weeks because of an exhaust leak throwing a catalyst efficiency code. After I make this post I'm going to run down to the advance auto I used to work at & see if I can borrow the scanner to see if there's anything new, but as of right now I don't know. I'll update the thread if I find anything.
The car started yesterday AM perfectly fine. Started again when I left work around noon. No problems with the start, idle, acceleration.. it's all good.
3 hours later I tried to start it to go pick up my kid from school but it just cranked without firing and would not start. I took care of business with the kiddo and then started trying to pin down the problem.
1. Opened the door & listened for the fuel pump to prime.. No sound.
2. Noticed the dome light is on.
3. Checked ALL of the fuses on the side of the dash.. All are fine. Turned key to listen for secondary prime.. no sound.
4. Bought Fuel pump relay & replaced.. no change.
5. Cursed.. a lot
6. Bought fuel pump.. replaced.. no change.
7. Cursed a lot more.. and cried a little too.
8. Noticed the fuel pump was now priming with the key being turned, but still not when I open the door.. Dash indicates the known CEL, but now I notice that the EPC light is on too (this could be from all the fruitless cranking drawing down the battery charge)
9. Figured I'd throw in a new crank angle sensor cuz of the EPC.. no change.
10. Shot starting fluid down the intake.. didn't hit a lick.
I feel like I'm at a dead end.. It's acting like a bad ignition control module, but there's no such thing on a vw 1.8t.
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I have VW Passat 1999 and i have some issue in my car AC cooling system. When I switch on my AC under the sun temperature 45-50 its start working, engaged the compressor and after few second throw the cold air but after some time the air is still there but its hot. I feel there is some issue with engaged the compressor as the radiator fan is running high speed mode.
I hear the clicking sound of AC but its disconnect after maximum 5 sec and then again clicking sound after 15 second (Delay of connecting and disconnecting of AC, its throwing HOT AIR). When I drive the car its working fine and throwing the cold air but the issue is when i stop the car on traffic red light or stop for long time when i stuck in traffic. What and where is the issue ?
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My CEL came on and is throwing code P0430. Is it just an o2 sensor? if so which one primary or secondary?
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Wife has a 2013 V and I bought a 2007 with 200000k on the clock. Got a good deal on the car and knew I would have some issues so here is what I am battling. CEL came on and throwing code P1116. We all know the generic code saying engine coolant temp sensor, cooling sensor clogged, etc. this is the only code on the reader. I checked the coolant level and everything is within standards. No leaks appear from the lines. I believe the carfax shows a fender bender so maybe the CHS tank sensor didn't get replaced? So, I guess what I am asking is:
Should I buy a MINi VCI to locate the problem (I plan on getting one eventually just wanted to save money isolating the problem now)? ECU problem? I have read previous post with bad ECUs throwing P1116 but these post were 2+ years. Sometimes it sounds like there might be gurgling from the dash...I say sometimes lightly because it is very faint but have also read older post stating air could throw the p1116 code so maybe a coolant flush?
Also, big question: is the engine coolant temp sensor identical to the CHS tank sensor? The local parts store couldn't find a CHS tank sensor part number just the engine so didn't know if they were the same.
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I have an 04 GLI and keeps throwing a code for the 02 sensor, and after putting the car on the lift, and disconnecting the 02 sensor harness, a fine oil leaks out at the end of the connector and smells and looks like power steering fluid.
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I drive a 1995 3.1L V6 Pontiac Grand Am SE.
My mechanic told me that my EGR valve was throwing a code, so I took it off and cleaned it out and tried to fish out some of the carbon in the air intake tube. I used carb cleaner on the valve and the tube and I sprayed a little bit of air duster into the tube, but it made a funny noise so I stopped after about 1 second of spraying.
When I put it back on, I forgot to snap the wiring harness back onto the top EGR solenoid. I reconnected the negative battery cable and started my car. The gauges red fine. I revved my engine a few times and everything seemed okay. Then I turned off my engine and then turned it back on to listen for any rough idling (that's why I decided to clean the EGR in the first place). Then I turned it off.
When I got out of the car, I realized I forgot to reattach the wiring harness to the EGR. I disconnected the negative battery cable and it sparked a tiny bit. I reconnected the wiring harness to the EGR. Afterwards, I noticed that it had leaked some fluid (I'm guess oil?) into my engine. There was a very small amount of light smoke or steam (not sure which), but it stopped a minute or two later. I've attached a picture for reference.
Is it safe to reconnect my negative battery cable and try restarting my car????
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My car has been throwing an ABS code for a long time now and I've finally decided to actually deal with it.
The code is: 00285 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Right (G45): Electrical Fault in Circuit
After reading that this could be due to a bad sensor, I replaced the front right sensor, but I am still getting the exact same code. I used measuring blocks in VCDS-Lite to check out what was going on with the wheel speeds and found that at speeds less than 20 km/h, the front right sensor reads 0 km/h, while all the others continue to read the proper speed.
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My 2007 is throwing a CEL code for the radio head unit. The code indicates the CD player is having problems ejecting the CD (there is no CD in the player)
The issue is not affecting the car or engine or MPG. The issue is that I cannot renew my registration without an inspection. I will not pass the inspection with a CEL light on
I have reset the code by disconnecting the battery.
Is there any way to kill the radio or the code.
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So my 02 Camry V6 has the check engine light on. I had them scan at AutoZone. the codes that came up were P1130 and P1135. After reading some threads here, seems like it's the A/F sensor?
Just to confirm, there are two A/F sensors in the V6 model? I can see the front one easily but not the rear one. Need to identify which sensor needs replacement?
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My 2002 v6 is throwing a cel that reads p0018. What the code description is? the general ob2 scanner mentions a coolant sensor issue but I did some research and i saw where it is a timing sensor for the newer hyundais.
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97 F150 4.6 200xxx on recent rebuild. My truck is throwing P0171 & P0174.
I think I tracked it down to leaky IAC and EGR gasket. I sprayed both with carb cleaner and the RPM's dropped.
My question is, wouldn't the RPM's rise instead of drop? I was under the impression that they would go up if the gaskets were leaking. Or did I use the wrong spray?
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2000 Grand Am GT with 3.4 and 150,000 miles. Car keeps throwing code P304 - cylinder 4 misfire. The main issue is the light and needing to pass emissions test. It has just recently had new plugs, wires, and injector #4.
The fuel pressure regulator was replaced about 3 years ago because it was leaking fuel, enough to smell while driving the car with windows rolled down. Shortly after the fpr was replaced, the acceleration problem seems to have started, either by coincidence, or improper installation. The light/error has been occurring for quite some time, about the past year or two. About a year ago, the car was also throwing a random misfire code. I am not positive if both codes were being thrown at the same time, and when exactly the P304 started.
The crank (or cam) sensor was replaced and worked with the issue for a short while (removed codes/light for maybe a few months?) Before the sensor was replaced, the car would stumble at very slow speeds, 0-10 mph. Also replaced Idle Air Control valve last year. The car would sometimes surge on semi warm starts (not cold, not 190-200) between 500-1000 rpms. The surge would be worse when I had the blower running or the rear defrost on, down to 200 rpms at times.
Currently, the car runs perfectly fine for me, except when trying to accelerate on highway ramps. Its firing somewhat when you step on the pedal, but lags and takes longer than normal to accelerate up to speed for merging with traffic. Drove the car after new injection and said it runs fine while driving, but the misfire seems to be mostly or only occurring at idle.
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My wife's 03 Passat w/ 1.8t is bucking and lurching throwing a P0301 (Cyl 1 misfire) code. We have about 58k on the engine and had the dealer do the 40k service 2 years ago.
So far I replaced cyl 1 spark plug, swapped and then replace coil pack with new. My choices for parts were limited on a Friday night and these are el cheapo Autozone parts. Still missing and throwing DTC, I don't really have access to Vag-Com anymore (just OBD reader at parts store) and I don't have a Bentley's either (I know there's some eye rolling going on now).
How to troubleshoot the cause so I can make a decision to take to mechanic or do a few more parts swaps between now and Monday. I've got tools and a multi-meter. I used to have Vag-Com but it isn't supported on my new laptop (Vista), I tried the USB extension cord on my desktop but it is hit and miss.
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We have a 1999 Audi A6 Avant (wagon) with about 190,000 miles. Best car we've ever owned, and want to keep her running until the wheels fall off (so to speak). We split our time between sea level and a ski town at 7000' (yes, that may be relevant).
Last spring our Trusty (sea-level) Mechanic repaired the exhaust system; both tailpipes were shot (car sounded like a tank). Rather than replace with Audi parts (was going to be a full exhaust system replacement - $000s) they spliced in some new tailpipe. Car ran quietly after that.
However, immediately thereafter (like, on my drive home from Trusty Mechanic's shop) and ever since the car will occasionally stumble (misfire) and throw a check-engine light. Typical scenario is after having been off the throttle while going downhill and then tipping into the throttle at the bottom of the hill, the car will stumble and on comes the CEL. Stumbling lasts 5-10 seconds then gradually subsides. Light stays on, though. Not 100% reproduceable under those circumstances (but doesn't really happen under other scenarios), but happens often enough to be disconcerting.
We recently decamped from sea level to spend the summer up in the mountains (great bicycling), and while the car misbehaved a couple of times on the way out of town, by the time we got to 5000 ft or so, the CEL was no longer illuminated. The car has not misfired once while at altitude despite plenty of situations that would presumably have triggered the issue, were we at sea level.
Trusty Mechanic has replaced some injectors, some coil packs, and the spark plug cables. No behavior change.
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Our car has been throwing a low boost code. We replaced the dv valve, pcv was just replaced but code still comes up. It's been making this noise that has arised with the code. It will do it down hill from 1500 to 2400. Just a constant rattle.
What do we do from here? Fix rod? New wastegate? New turbo?
[URL]......
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I have a 1999 F-150 with the 4.2L engine. I recently did a motor swap as the original motor was bad. I bought this truck as a project truck and have enjoyed working on it.
When I did the engine swap back in May of this year, it took a while to work out all the little bugs and quirps. However, after a while of running the truck it threw a few codes. I replaced a lot of the emission components and no more codes for several months until last month the truck started throwing the infamous P0174 "too lean bank two"... I have replaced the pcv valve and all the hoses to include the little rubber boot under the front of the intake, all 4 O2 sensors, MAF sensor, EGR, DPFE, IAC valve, new wires and plugs to include coil pack, fuel pressure regulator, and all the vacuum lines that are under the hood.
The truck runs fine, has power, but about every couple weeks or so it throws this P0174 code. I know there are alot of threads on here about this problem and I have read many of them. It only throws the P0174 and not the P0171. I am wondering if there could be a problem specific to "bank 2" that I am over looking.
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