Golf/GTI VI :: CEL For Cold Start Idle - Control System
Jan 14, 2013
So I got a check engine light... did a scan and it said something about, "Cold Start Idle-Control System" and then it also has misfires on all of the cylinders and that it is running too lean.
I automatically went to check the intake, took it apart and the rubber coupler that connects the MAF sensor to the stage 2 pipe has a rip in it.
Now I'm freaking out thinking that maybe water... dust... dirt... has gotten into the engine.
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Car started idling all weird this evening, rising and falling when at a stop light. Car APR Stg 2+. Found the fault code above. I changed the map back to stock and cleared the code and it still does it. I let the car sit for like 30 minutes and started it up again and it sounds even worse like it wants to stall. I did a few google searches and it seems that it could be a faulty PCV or throttle body. How should I proceed? I'm thinking change the PCV and if the problem is still there it's a potentially larger issue.
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Carburetor: Autolite 4100
Fast Idle Speed: 1250 RPM
Curb Idle Speed: 600 RPM (At normal operating temperature)
When I cold start my truck, the fast idle speed holds the throttle at 1500 RPM. I will let it idle about 30 seconds or so, and then I will tap the gas to bring the idle down.
When I do this, the idle will immediately drop all the way down, and too low for a cold engine. The engine won't stall, but it will hover just below 500 RPM, which is a bit too low to idle smoothly.
But when the engine is at operating temperature, the idle speed is 600 RPM and the engine will happily idle smoothly.
Shouldn't there be an "in between" speed? When I tap the gas pedal at 1500 RPM to bring the idle down some, shouldn't the speed drop down a little lower, like 1000 RPM since the engine is still a bit cold?
If so, what do I need to adjust? The Autolite 4100 works PERFECTLY otherwise.
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I recently got my Mk7 1.8T manual brand new and have been wondering about the long cold start idle. It usually takes around a minute or two before the revs drop below 1000. Coming from a '04 Mercedes and '11 TDI Jetta, I can say those cars the idles dropped much faster. Is this normal with the golf?
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just got my R32 a year and 3 months ago and love it. I came across my first issue though a couple months ago, when i start my car on cold starts before it would of course go to the cold start mode at over 1,000 rpm's before going back down after 30 seconds and depending on the weather i'd let it warm up anywhere from 5-15 minutes.
Well a couple months ago my car wouldn't do its normal cold start routine, i'd turn it and it made its loud pitch as if it was going to do the cold start and it just immediately went down to regular idle skipping the warm up, it did this for a week before i got it checked out. I went to a shop by me and he said that it might be a thermostat sensor so i replaced it and nothing. So he then pulled my throttle body off cleaned it did the whole calibration thing or whatever its called that you have to do when unplugging them and it went back to normal!!! Well after a month (two weeks ago) its doing it again. Then he told me it might be that the throttle body has some condensation frozen and isn't allowing the throttle to open like it needs too.
I live in a suburb 20 minutes north of chicago and i don't drive the car if it snows, i keep it in my garage. I have a CAI installed on the car that i put on back in March of 09 and a flapper that i just permanently opened with an IV clamp. So i don't have any big modification on the car...yet
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I picked up my latest R back in April - 3 owner, 33K mile car - as far as I know no tune. The previous owner owned the car for the previous 9 years and kept it stock.
The issue: If the car sits for more than one day (I work form home so this happens a lot) upon initial start up it will start and idle at 800 RPM and then drop a little from there once warmed up. Now if the car sits for less than a day, it will cold start as it should - high idle then a gradual drop.
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I've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
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Recently my Climate Control System on Gen 3 has been misbehaving. A few weeks ago, I could not get cold air out of the AC, and then just as quickly as it stopped working, it started working again. Then yesterday, I started noticing coolant temps on the Scan Gauge rising to 215 - 220 F, which seemed quite a bit higher than the 195 limit I had set for operating with grill blocking, so I turned on the Heater and brought it down to 195, and when I got home, I checked and the coolant level seems OK, and it was under pressure.
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2007 Passat 2.0t tiptronic
I personally think it might be the relay, but before replacing/looking for opinion.
Here are the codes
4 Faults Found:
001287 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.
P0507 -- 001 -- Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 3
[Code] ......
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I have a 2001 saab 95 se and half of the cars heat works the other doesnt only cold are comes out and its not a good feeling in the winter. Only the drivers side vents push cold air all others work fine even in the back.
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I have a 2005 f-150 street boss with 79000 mile, and it is shooting off going down the road, and the check engine light is flashing. The first time I started it back up and it would idle fine, but the throttle wouldn't do any thing. After setting about 15 min. I started it up and it ran good. I checked the codes and it had a p2104 Throttle actuator control system forced idle. It happened again with my wife. This time when I checked the codes it had the p2104 and a p2112 throttle actuator control system stuck closed code. What could be the problem, or a troubleshooting guide I could use to try and diagnose it.
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I got a "P054F- Idle Control System - Fuel Quantity Higher Than Expected" this morning and again this afternoon. I did a search and the only threads that contain the code are the codes lists and one guy who got the code but no follow up. I found a few instances through Google, but almost all of them said the dealers just reset the code. It seems to happen in cold weather, which we are having. Both instances were in the same situation, remote start warmed up then short town drives. No CEL came on. Anyway, I reset it and I'll see what happens.
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Check engine light came on the other day. Brought the car over to autozone and this was the code that came back. P0441 EVAC Control System; Incorrect flow. Where I should start looking?
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This has to do with a rattle on cold startup from a gear connected with the VVT system. I have a 2010 camry that may be affected by this. It just past 60K miles so they probably will not cover it under warranty. Does the rattle get worse over time, or will it have an engine failure if it does not get fixed?
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We have a 2007 Ranger. When the temps hit 32 degrees F or below, the truck won't start. The security system light comes on. We have to run through the security system reset process, sometimes a few times, before it will start. Afraid all this key turning is going to burn out the ignition. Don't have a lot of confidence in my Ford dealer as they replaced the brakes and put the shims in wrong. Local mechanic says it's probably electrical. Is there anyway to bypass the security system or can it be removed?
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I've stumped the local dealership and their Hyundai Tech Line as well. This is a 2011 Hyundai Sonata with about 50k miles. Also this is my first winter with it so I can't tell you if it's a new issue or if it's always happened in the "cold". This is Northern California so the cold nights are about as low as 30.
On a cold start, after 20-30 minutes the heater sputters out and the lights on the control unit go out. Sometimes it goes back on if I continue driving for 5-15 more minutes; another way for it to go on again is to turn the car off and start it again. The final way to turn it back on (which was discovered the last time it was in the shop) is to gently begin to start the car again (while it's on) and just that slight movement in the ignition cylinder turns it back on.
The sputtering out doesn't actually turn it off completely, just the lights, buttons and knobs stop responding and the heat mostly goes off.
The control unit has been replaced, plugs have been tightened and the ignition cylinder has been replaced.
They've road tested it 3 times and I'm a little tired of having to get a rental car as they claim to not be able to start a new case with Hyundai Tech Line until they have my car.
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Check out how loud my cold start idle is. Still can't figure out why you can't hear the turbo on start up though. Even revving at idle you can't hear it that much. I've seen plenty of gti's with more exhaust restriction then i have and you can hear it clearly. [URL] .....
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So I recently found my GTI (10 months, 6000 miles) showing noticeable vibration in idle. Nothing too serious or abnormal. My reasonable guess it was caused by my recent driving pattern.
In the last couple months, I drove 99% local, short trip, low speed, plus stop-n-go traffic. Yes I knew this might be the worst condition for any car, but seriously I was extremely busy these days and didn't get chance to take it to a good run (Italian tune-up?).
So does it mean the rough idle was caused by carbon build-up or dirty fuel system? Should I add some cleaner to a tank of gas? If yes, what product would be a good one?
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Mk4 GTI 1.8BT 034 Standalone Issues. I'm working on trying to finish up my big turbo project. I am running 034 iic standalone system. I started the car and got it to idle but timing seems off and I know I have an exhaust manifold leak. How to alter the timing and such so I can get this thing running.
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I have an issue with extreme high initial idle at start up. I took my 1998 Ranger with a 3.0L to the local dealer to have some work done about a month ago. Long story short, my number six plug wire got burned against the exhaust rail.
Anyway, I guess they re-flashed the computer to the newest *.bin, or flash version. After that when I start the truck the tachometer jumps up to 2200 - 2300 RPM and then it settles down to about 1500 after a moment or two, then it finally adjusts itself to about 1100 for a few more seconds and eventually ends up at 900 - 1000 RPM.
I confronted Ford about this and they said that Ranger's and F-150's do have a tendency to do that at start up. Ordinarily I wouldn't be too concerned, however I believe that the 2200 - 2300 RPM high idle at start up at 0 F, a bit much.
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I have a 99 silverado with the 4.8 w/186k on the clock. I am having an issue with rough idle and hesitation on cold start up. Once the truck warms up the idle and hesitation go away. I have replaced the PCV valve hoping this fixed it, but it did not. I have also cleaned the TB and the MAF.
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