Golf/GTI VI :: CEL Came On, No Apparent Cause Caught Into Sight
Jan 9, 2016
Need some tips as to what's the source, basically over time this winter pulling in and out of the alley did a number on the black fairings under my '10 mk6.
i decided to take them off. Now i'm driving home to day in the wet snow and the C.E.L came on, car drove home fine. I'm just a bit irritated.....i'm certain its got something to do with the exposed wires closer to the passenger side underneath.
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Any easy way to get the inner fender back into shape evenly without having to get someone to roll it? Yes my car does have the screw mod, and my wheel fitment is not super extreme. I'm on ST's that are maxed out. This is my first vdub...
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I've been replacing my steering components over the past month and have fixed all the previous issues other than this one that's got me stumped. After I make a hard left the steering will pull left (very hard) until I either turn the wheel right or hit a bump. Sometimes when going immediately from a left turn to a right turn (or vice versa) I can actually feel a slight pop as it starts to pull.
The order of repairs thus far has been: new power steering pump, new inner & outer tie rod ends, professional alignment, new steering box with both lines. The shop and I both agree the ball joints are good. I've jacked my truck up by the frame and removed the wheels to check for steering/suspension play but have not been able to find any. 180k miles on the chasis.
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I tried starting my car today and it didn't want to go. I took out the air intake sensor blew at it and plugged it back in and started it, but it didn't sound the same, the muffler wasn't making as much noise as usual and just sounded like the engine wasn't working the same. After that it started normal and i've been driving for about a week, and today it didn't want to start again so i took out the censor did the same but still didn't start so i put down the clutch revved it a couple times and like magic it worked.
I think i need to change the censor but i'm not sure and i don't want to spend money if i don't have to.
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I'm the second owner of a '13 Golf R with just over 11k miles. This car has been on APR Stage III since 17 miles. Since I took ownership of it, it has been slowly losing coolant. I seem to lose 1-2oz per week, and a thorough top and bottom inspection of the coolant lines in the engine bay hasn't revealed any obvious sources of leakage. I've had the oil analyzed, and there wasn't any sign of burning it or losing it into the crankcase, so I assume it is leaking and/or evaporating off somewhere.
The only thing that looked remotely like a possible source of loss is a tiny (maybe 3mm) white "crust" where the plastic end caps meet the aluminum core of the radiator. Is that a likely spot to lose coolant at such a slow rate? Are there any other usual suspects? I haven't let it drop down past the midpoint of the hashed "low" area, so damage from lack of coolant seems unlikely, but it is slightly disconcerting to be losing any.
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This time it's about my tranny. After putting on 034 motorsport track density mounts, this whining noise started coming apparent and it's pretty loud and it's coming from the tranny area. Not sure of the fact that the mounts are so stiff has anything to do with it, but here goes...
It's like a slight grinding/mechanical whine noise that happens only when in gear and under load. It gets louder as the speed/rpm's get higher and happens in every gear. Funny, but sounds like a mechanical supercharger whine that you'd get from a supercharged car. When the car is idling, there is nothing wrong/no noise.
Clutch is not slipping, power feels just like it did before, my clutch pedal doesn't get stuck nor is it hard to push down.
A few initial diagnoses from friends were that there is some sort of shaft play in the tranny or that it may very well be a synchro.
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Why a 2012 Honda Civic might catch on fire? I have had it since October 2012, and it had a little over 4,000 miles on it. Yesterday I was driving it for 15 minutes, and it began smoking, and something was on fire under the hood. It is NOT one of the ones that was recalled for the faulty O-ring that caused oil leakage. I checked, and my car is not under recall for anything. Just out of nowhere it catches on fire while I am driving??? What is up with that???
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Family friend's son has a 08 GTI, all stock. Engine caught fire reportedly due to #4 coil. Is there some recall on this?
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I have had my Plug-In Prius for 3 weeks.
I have been using an extension cord that stretches from the vehicle to my garage outlet . I charge every night. Apparently, my garage 110v outlet is on the same circuit as my bathroom 110v outlet. Today, that bathroom 110v outlet started to "click", "pop", and then caught fire partially melting it. Luckily I was at home and awake when this occurred.
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My 2010 Toyota Corolla caught fire IN THE RAIN yesterday ( Jan 9, 2014) while I was driving ..... I was lucky to get out of the car before the fire came in the passenger compartment.... Trying to find out a way to see if this has happened to other Toyotas....
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My neighbor's 2000 5.4L F150 caught fire under the hood last night while parked in his driveway nosed up to the garage door. I wasn't home at the time so didn't see it 'til this morning; at first I thought the hood had blown off but then realized it had MELTED! He was inside at the time, heard a soft "WHUMP", went outside to find his truck on fire and called 9-1-1. The small windows in the garage door are gone (blown out?), and the garage door and gable all the way to the peak are scorched. His 'Toon parked next to the truck ain't looking real good either.
Awhile back, seems like there was a problem with Cruise Control switches on master cylinders causing fires; anyone have any info on this and if true, what FoMoCo did about it?
The fire dept. is supposed to tow his truck to where-ever an investigation can be done, but who knows how long that will take or if a valid cause will ever be found.
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My buddy's 1998 4.0L Ranger caught fire from the dreaded brake switch shorting on the master cylinder. In his defense, he's only owned the truck less than a week and had no clue of the recall. The damage is mainly to the wire harnesses on the driver's side.
Rebuild the wiring. What other years of the Rangers I can pull the wiring harnesses from? Or if the 3.0 harness will work?
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I have an 07 Camry and the alarm keeps going off for no apparent reason. Is there anyway to reset the alarm system itself? If so how and what do I need to do? How to do this.
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My 2009 managed to lose 4 quarts of oil over 200 miles today.
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I own a 2003 BMW 5301 with the sports ,premium and 'M' package. Of late the battery drains for no apparent reason. This happened a few times 2 months ago and I had the battery and alternator replaced. This has again started happening. The car starts promptly in the morning but refuses to start in the evening when I am ready to leave work. It has to be jump started. This does not happen everyday and the BMW service folks have not been able to figure this out.
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The other day, in sub zero weather I left my radio and lights on as I ran into the store to grab washer fluid. The engine was turned off, but I did leave the radio on for my buddy.... I was in the store for a max of 5 mins. I get back into the car, go to turn it back on...... and nothing.... ZERO juice.... now I've had the radio on before for a much longer period of time without the engine running and have had no problem.
We ended up jumping the car and it started up with no problem. I let it idle for a bit but then all of the light on my dash came on..... I reved the engine a bit and they all went away.
A few days pass and the car starts up with no problem. Then I get stuck sitting in underground parking, so I turn the car off while I wait for the cars to exit the garage... again listening to music with the car off... go to start and nooooo juice! Being that the car is manual I was able to get it rolling and then popped the clutch..
224,000kms and counting.... all OEM
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I have a 98 Suburban with a 4l60e rebuilt 13 months ago, less than 15000 miles since. I have no second gear at all, but still no apparent slip at all in fourth. R,1,3 are fine. The fluid is a bit dark red, smells normal. There was a bit of the grey paste on the magnet but no obvious trauma. I did find a very small copper wire in there. It's about a 22 gauge, looks like it could have been a 3/8" ring or retainer.
I've replaced the servo, and of course fluid and filter. I pulled off the housing for the 1-2 piston but didn't have the right part to replace. I did not see anything cracked or cocked, it came out and went in fine. The main o ring did look fairly warn, but seemed all-right.
A transmission tester showed second gear being called for on a test drive. I did get a P1870 slippage code a couples weeks ago, I have since cleared it and it has not returned. Could the copper 'ring' be a retainer for something related? I'm guessing the solenoid, but I believe it also applies to 4th gear.
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My wife just had an issue today on her 2009 base sedan. The TPMS came on for no apparent reason. Tire pressure was good all the way around. Cleared the code, which shut off the light, only to have it come back on 20 mi. later. What the cause could be?
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My aunt came to me the other day about her car not starting and I found that the battery was shot and would not accept a jump start so i replaced that and then yesterday it died again with the new battery so naturally, I replaced the alternator. After swapping the alternator I jumped the car ran it for about 20 mins and told her to follow me to grab some food. When she proceeded to back out the car died again!!!
So I tightened the belt on the alternator a little more, jumped it and let it run a little bit. This time I went through all the basic electronics lights blinkers brakes ect except ac and radio. then i back out and pull back in the parking spot and I was thinking pow it's fixed.
So I turn on the A/C and i notice the sound of the RPMs go down which doesn't concern me too much but when I looked at the RPM gauge it was erratic but the engine wasn't fluctuating with it. So I turned the ac off checked the A/C fuses they were fine. Tried turning the A/C on one more time and this time, RPM gauge stops reading all together and the A/C light was flickering very quickly.
I'm not good with the electronic side of the car but I am leaning towards a very bad grounding issue or short. I have no multi-meter so I haven't read any voltages but I am going to see if I can borrow one from my cousin.
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I Have A 2001 Ram 1500 With The 318 5.2 Engine , Oil Pressure Jumps From 40 To 0 For No Apparent Reason, And Then Lifters Began To Tick. Turn Off Truck And Recrank Oil Pressure Returns To 40 Lbs, Rev Up Engine To 2000 Rpm Or Better And Pressure Goes To 0 Instantly. I Have Replaced Sending Unit, Replaced Oil Pump And Pickup, Changed Oil And Filter Using Dodge Filter, Removed Valve Covers And Intake Cleaned Out All Sludge, Tried 3 Different weights Of Oil, Cleaned Oil Passages, Inspected Oil pump Drive Shaft, Pulled Rear Main Cap And Inspected Bearing , Looked Good, Changed Oil And Filter 3 Times , Engine Is Very Clean. Engine Never Has Low Oil Pressure Either 0 Or 40 Lbs Never 10 Or 20. I Have Heard Others Describe This But Never Heard The Answer . Truck Has 70,000 Miles ,runs And Sounds Perfect When Oil Pressure Is At40. It Can Idle At 40 Lbs Hot, Which Leads Me To Believe Bearing Clearances Are Fine.
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I've noticed on a few occasions (maybe 3 or 4 times total) on my 2005 V8 (about 2.5 months old and 2000 miles) that the brakes seem go into "ABS mode" for no apparent reason. No rain and no snow etc. As I depress the brake normally or even lightly it takes over and reacts like I slammed on the brakes. Then everything returns to normal.
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