Golf/GTI VI :: CEL Flashing Then Stayed On - Multiple Fault Codes
Feb 24, 2014
Car was taking 3-4 seconds to turn over when I started it one night. After that, flashing CEL and then CEL stayed. Car idles ridiculously rough, thought it was just a coil pack but seems to be a lot more. What is going on with my car?
Performance mods:
APR intake (stage 1&2)
SPM track edition turboback
Stage 2 revo software
R8 coilpacks and NGK plugs put in 9-10k miles ago
Have 52k miles on the car if that matters
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The vehicle is a 2004 Jetta MK4 1.8t.
Last thing I had replaced about 2 months ago was the Solenoid valve, the MAF and Solenoid hose. Car ran fine for about a month, and bam...engine light came back on, along with the ASR light. At first it was saying "cat converter" so I researched that, and what a surprise, it spoke about being a $1k piece to replace. NOTHING HAS BEEN CHEAP ON THIS CAR, and I'm losing my mind.
The latest adventure happened today coming back from the gym. Car started jerking (which has been normal since every now and then the ASR light will come on, which I'm told is the traction control light. Causing the car to jerk. Simple fix is pulling over, shutting the car off, and turning it back on. That always clears it, and then I'm back on the road.) but instantly it lost power. It wont shift, but the traction control light didn't come on. I plugged my OBD2 tool up, and came back with these fault codes:
P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0753: Shift Solenoid "A" Electrical
P2637: Torque Management Feedback Signal A
I'm going to go to these guys tomorrow, but I would just like to get an educated guess on what might be going on, so I don't look like a lost dog while they're figuring out what to do next. These guys seem knowledgeable, but they're missing something since I've been in and out of their shop several times and still getting my traction control light on at random times, and now all 3 of these codes.
Does that Solenoid code have anything to do with the Solenoid valve they put in? I was told that cleaning the throttle body and the cat converter might work. Would those be cheaper options to consider, and see if that works?
I also read that unplugging the alternator and plugging it back in, then cleaning the male and female with electrical cleaner might work. I was told about a month ago that my battery barely passed. Could this be causing any of my issues? I also did a log while I was driving, but all that's showing up is a google map document.
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I have a 2006 F350 SRW 4WD 6.0 with 127000 miles on it. A couple of weeks ago it, pulling out of my driveway, it hesitated and tow haul started flashing. I had codes pulled and it showed P1780, P0751, and P2700. After turning off, codes were gone and tow haul off. Ran fine since then every day. Yesterday while going about 50 mph it started acting like it was in neutral (revving up), nothing happened when mashing the accelerator. Coasted to a driveway and truck would not move, only sounded like it was in neutral.
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It all started a few months ago.... I started my car, and it started noticeably misfiring, CEL flashing and everything. I scanned it with my vagcom and it came up Cylinder 1 Misfire and Random Multiple misfire. I popped the hood, made sure everything was seated correctly, and shrugged.
Ordered some new wires for it, since it had 80k miles on it with original wires, I figured why not. The misfire didn't come back.
A few weeks later, same thing happened. Misfires, flashing CEL, same codes. I ended up driving it the 5 minutes to work anyways and figured I'd look at it later after I got off.
8 hours later I started it up again, ran like a champ, no CEL on. The problem didn't come up again for 3-4 weeks.
So now, without fail, every month or so, I'll get the same issue. It doesn't matter if it's raining or sunny or cold or warm. But if I let it sit for a few hours, it'll act like it never happened.
Now, I haven't replaced the coil pack yet, simply because it doesn't sound like a coil problem, but I might do it just for the hell of it. New plugs and wires have already been done.
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So my car has been dropping multiple codes after I scanned her and found all five: p0303, p1128, p0172, p1300, p0301. She is just a simple five speed AEG and has no mods other than a SRI. I already replaced the MAF but that ended up causing more codes and I have checked the vacuum lines to no avail.
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I finished installing an auto out of a 1999 beetle into my 2000 golf. I used the beetle TCM now it wont shift out of 3rd. If I manually start in first it will shift up to 3rd but nothing past 3rd. I had it scanned with a generic scanner and these are the codes. P1780, P1783, P0725. I researched the heck out of this and I'm not sure what to do. Do I need to take it and have a vag com hooked up to make sure the ecm and the new tcm are talking? It seems others have had these issues and I thought it might be solenoids but that's not what's coming up.
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Came on other day. No ses light or fault codes. What it means?
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My check engine came on last night and stayed on during multiple restarts and also again this morning when I started it. I thought I was ready to bring to the dealer Monday morning but the light "magically" went off while driving today. What could cause this? And finally would there be a code stored that the dealer could check?
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Had the CEL come on twice in the last few days. The first time, a restart of the car took it away. The second time, it came on and stayed over multiple start ups.
With Torque Pro and a bluetooth OBDII dongle I read: P0300 - Powertrain, Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
From the Internet:
Possible causes
- Faulty spark plug (s)
- Faulty ignition coil (s)
- Clogged or faulty fuel injector (s)
- Intake air leak
- Fuel injectors harness is open or shorted
- Fuel Injectors circuit poor electrical connection
- Ignition coils harness is open or shorted
- Ignition coils circuit poor electrical connection
- Insufficient cylinders compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure
I wish it wasn't so broad... But, as the car is about to hit 60,000 miles, I plan to replace the spark plugs (NGK), engine air filter, cabin air filter. Just had the timing belt done last week. I will check all of the intake couplings for tightness.
For others who use Torque, what other settings could be useful in pinning down this issue for me? I cleared the CEL this morning; it didn't come back yet.
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I was driving down the road when my car (02 GTI 12v VR6) suddenly died. I pulled off and tried to restart it. It sounded weird, kind of metallic like maybe the clutch went out. It seemed to be firing, but would not turn over so I stopped trying for fear of damaging something. I thought the timing chain may have come loose, however I didn't hear anything catastrophic like valves breaking so if that's the case then hopefully it only jumped a tooth or two. I scanned it and a bunch of codes came back. I did have the battery out for a while before scanning so I'm not sure if some of the Central Convenience codes are due to that or not.
Here's the full scan:
VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S
Chassis Type: 1J - VW G/J/B Mk4
Scan: 01,02,03,08,16,15,17,19,22,35,46,56
[Code] .....
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I bought my 2001 Jetty w/2.0 only yesterday. While I was looking under the hood this morning, I noticed there was no fans running while engine was going so I took a trip to local auto parts store. O'Reilly's hooked up my Jetty and told me there was four error codes but they weren't sure what they meant. Here are the codes: P0302, P0301, P1128,and P1580. I have no clue of what these errors mean. I am not familiar with Volkswagen at all and there are no volkswagen dealerships close.
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So i installed a USP test pipe and got Revo Stage 2 upgrade yesterday. I had no codes before the test pipe. I still have a CEL for 9 fault codes. 4 of which are all the o2 sensor codes. With all these codes my Traction Control light is on too. I think this may be a safety thing. I thought Stage 2 was supposed to get rid of the CEL. Especially for the 02 sensors in the rear.
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I coded a few things through VCDS (fogs as DRLs, turned up XDS, enabled TSC, etc.) and now I'm getting fault codes from ABS...
I did an autoscan before I started and there were no fault codes before.
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I recently found these codes. My car is APR 1+. The car seems to run fine so I'm not sure what is going on. I changed the plugs at ~60K miles and now have 72K miles.
Address 01: Engine (CRZ) Labels: 06F-907-115-CDL.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 907 115 M HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: 5BH20--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403010A180F0160
[Code] ....
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All seems to be going well, drove the car for first 200 meters yesterday! Replacing the faulty parts is always easiest, just need to know if there are any shortcuts for fixing this. What's the engine oil temperature sensor? The one bolted in oil pan?
The intake air temperature is showing -40 degrees celsius.
MAF is plugged correctly.
VAG-COM gives me these following codes:
3 Faults Found:
000406 - Engine Oil Temp. Sensor (G8)
P0196 - 004 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
000275 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42)
P0113 - 002 - Signal too High - Intermittent
000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 002 - Signal too Low
Readiness: 0000 0000
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I am getting 20 intermittent ground fault codes and the kid I bought the car from had an alternator put in. I see a terminal closest to the front of the car on the alternator that has no thick wire attached to it and when I was at the junkyard they had wires connected to them. I cleaned all other grounds on the car that I can access so I think that could be the issue but I don't know where the wire should lead to and how the alternator should be grounded!
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Keep getting o2 fault codes. Replaced sensors came back. tried another set of sensors came back. Checked wiring for breaks no luck. Replaced ecu still no luck. So going through wiring again and checking for continuity. Looking for a list of what pins to check for voltages, and what each should be from ecu to sensor connectors. Looking for what wire is signal and how to and what voltages to check for...
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I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
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I have seen a bunch of the older posts. My V8 has been back to shop 4 times for the same problem. I keep getting "new battery cables" new command modules, power draw, etc. but no solutions. I am almost at the end of my warranty and am afraid i will go past without resolution.
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When I was driving home from work today PRNDS started to flash and i stopped my car and turned the ignition off, when I tried to start my car again nothing happens, Engine is not starting and the PRNDS flashed on the mfd. I had my laptop with me and plugged in vag-com to see if the error codes was the same people gets when mechatronic is failing but they was different and car should start even with bad mech.
The error codes i get is:
18149 - Clutch Pressure Adaptation: Limit Reached
P1741 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
Fault Status: 01100001
18149 - Clutch Pressure Adaptation: Limit Reached
P1741 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
Fault Status: 01100010
28775 - No Communication with Gear Selector Module
U0103 - 004 - No Signal/Communication
Fault Status: 01100100
00194 - Ignition Key Removal Lock
008 - Implausible Signal
Fault Status: 01101000
My car is in my garage and I have checked all of the fuses and removed/replugged the main contact to my mech box.
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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