Golf/GTI VI :: CEL / ECU Lights Came On - Now Misfires?
Jan 5, 2013
I am out of town for the weekend and my car just decided to throw a CEL and EPC light. Immediately felt a loss of power and I thought maybe limp mode. Got to my friends house, turned it off, and now when I turn it back on, it feels like it is miss fireing (I think, I dont know because I dont know what miss firing is supposed to feel like) The car is vibrating at low RPM and it does not sound smooth if you know what I mean but it smooths out if I give it a bit of gass, but not compleatly.
Could this be a bad ECU? (thought maybe since the EPC light was on but I dont know if that means ECU or something else) but the EPC light has not come back on when I restart it, but the CEL does blink continuously. It is Saturday night and I have a 2.5 hour drive tomorrow. Obviously no way to get it looked at it tomorrow, so can I limp it home at 40? The car has not failed to start yet, and I thought a bad EPC would mean the car would not start.Or if I can just drive real slow.
View 24 Replies
Advertisement
How the cylinders are numbered as your facing the car from the front left to right (forgot the order) so I can replace coil packs on cyl 5&6 (238 misfires in 2min is not good).
View 4 Replies
So I have never worked on the 2.5 before, I have an 01 A4 1.8T so I am used to VAG products though. The other day my neighbor had a CEL light, when I read the code it was a misfire in cylinder 2. Since it was a single cylinder I told him it was most likely a coil pack but asked if he had ever done plugs. He bought the car with around 60k and it now has 90k but he didn't think they were ever done. So I suggested swapping them out with the new coil pack. So he bought a (5) plugs and (3) coils since that is all they had local. Initially he just replaced the one coil and said the car was running great. Then when he had time he threw the new plugs in (Autolite Iridium don't recall #) and put the other coils in. After doing this the car went into limp mode and is showing random misfires in all cylinders. He pulled one of the new plugs and noticed that the dimensions of the plug appear different than the OEM plug.
The OEM plug has a longer threaded section so it would project into the cylinder further and the insulator on the new plug appears to have several rubber seals on it. Since he is getting misfires on all cylinders I would think it is plug related especially since the plugs are dimensionaly different, but he even checked the manufacturers website and they say these are a direct replacement. Did they change the plug design or is this a known issue with some cross references?
View 4 Replies
Yesterday it was the coldest day my car has ever experienced at -27*C or -16F. I only live about 10 minutes from work in stop and go traffic so the car barely reached operating temp as I was arriving to work.
After about 10 hours, I went outside at the end of the day, the temps had warmed slightly and I started the car and let it idle for about 1 minute before driving off. After about 45 seconds I got a series of what seemed to be misfires. The EPC light flashed but eventually turned off, and where the odometer normally appears there was an exclamation point next to a symbol that looked like cruise had been activated. A message appeared in the MFD to the effect of "malfunction - bring car for service"
I reved the car slightly a few times-all seemed good- and left. All was good. Stopped the car a few blocks after and restarted and the warning symbol was gone and all was back to normal.
Today has been warmer and there have been no issues with it.
View 4 Replies
I am getting random misfires on cylinders 4, 5, and 6. Mostly on 6, less on 5, and even less on 4. Cylinders 1-2-3 show ZERO misfires. I am using vag-com to monitor these. Mostly doing it on idle, cruise seems fine but occasionally when shifting I feel it when engaging the next gear. It doesn't buck but I feel a little hesitation. Cruising and accelerating I do not feel it. Its very strange. A couple times during extended idling I have even gotten a flashing CEL. Fuel mileage has been pretty bad ever since I got the car in December. Average tank gets me 250-270.
I tried swapping coils with 123, and the problem stayed on 456. Coils are all new since I got the car. Plugs are fairly new (under 5K) and I pulled a couple to check, they looked fine and gap was about .028. I might try a new set but my gut is telling me the problem is some where else. I would like to verify/test grounds but I don't know where the harness grounds out.
I also want to get a vacuum gauge on the FPR, or check fuel pressure at idle. I replaced one cracked vacuum line, i am thinning there might be others since there seems to be miles of vacuum line on MK4's. Also have a new fuel filter to install, mine appears to be OEM and the car has 97K.
View 8 Replies
My girlfriend's MkV Jetta 2.0T is throwing a code for misfires in Cylinders 1 and 2. I've already switched out the plugs and coilpacks with no change. I'm going to try re-positioning the coilpacks to see if the code follows. In doing some research, someone mentioned that it could be fouling on the injectors, which led me to BG44K. She has >215K miles. I figure she's gotta have some fouling that could be cleaned up. I have ~110K miles on my R32 - I figure it wouldn't hurt to do some cleaning in my own car.
View 4 Replies
In the last few months, I've been having misfires at idle. I didn't realize at first what the vibration was, since I had cams installed over the summer and had my flywheel replaced a couple of weeks ago. I have replaced the plugs and coil packs and for a couple of days, it ran fine. Tonight, they started up again, mostly in a single cylinder. I swapped out coil packs - no change. Switched plugs between two cylinders - the misfire followed the plug. Swapped in an old plug - things improved, misfires went from 2-3 per second to maybe one every 5-10 seconds. Few to no misfires when revs go up. My battery is 5 years old, could that be an issue? Wire harnesses - do they go bad?
View 24 Replies
I've got a R32 with nearly 100K miles on it. Several days ago I was adjusting my shifter cables and am not sure if i accidentally leaned up against any sensors or their associated connectors that are in that vicinity. I took the car for a drive to feel how the shifter adjustment had turned out. I was building engine RPM from 2500-4000 RPM, I let off the acceleration pedal and felt a small and new kick as if something got loose, popped off, or backfired. Not sure what it was but my engine started to misfire in what seemed to be in several cylinders. It idles rough but the needle doesn't exceed 1000 RPM during idle. When driving calmly, there is sporadic misfire. If pushed hard to build RPM, it will misfire heavily.
I scanned the vehicle and got the following codes,
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
I've checked
- Every hose I can see and feel for Vacuum leaks
- Checked all my fuses
- Swapped coils from banks 1,3,5, with 2,4,6
- Disconnected, cleaned and reconnected camshaft hall sender sensors and tightened the bolts.
- Have erased the coded and the same codes are back.
View 6 Replies
I'm getting random misfires on all 5 cylinders on my 2013 2.5L with ~4200miles. Sometimes the CEL will stay on other times it just flashes and goes away. I've gone to multiple dealers and none of them has done anything but clear the codes because "we couldn't replicate the issue," or "It's just rev hang/drive by wire."
What are the known causes of a brand new car misfiring? And what should I have VW look at?
When I mentioned that our family has a 2007 Eos all three dealers were chomping at the bit for me to bring it in for recalls I didn't even know about. This really rubbed me the wrong way. I've got one car that I KNOW is malfunctioning that VW won't do any work on, but the other VW is volunteering to work on!
I've got another appointment set for tomorrow after I get off work. How to push the right buttons or say the right words?
View 15 Replies
My GF recently picked up a 1.8t (AWW) and we scanned it with vag com before she bought. We knew it had some misfires and a few other small problems so when it ran at higher RPMs we didn't think anything of it.
Fast forward to now after replacing some parts (hoses, coil packs etc...) and still the RPMs seem a little high compared to my mk4 vr6. On the streets in 4th gear, my car stays around 2200 and on the hwy its probably around 3300 in 5th gear at 75mph.
On the streets, her 1.8t seems normal but on the hwy in 5th gear, she's at nearly 4k. So my question... Do 1.8ts run at higher rpms under normal driving?
View 11 Replies
Ok, to start off. I have a 2010 2.0T CCTA with 23k miles. I recently purchased a HPA Intake Manifold and installed it myself. I was told by HPA that they offer a tune specifically for their manifold. I however, purchase the Maestro suite by Eurodyne with the intention on getting it all tuned myself. I was able to code out the CEL for the flappers no problem. Now my only issue is the cold starts. During the cold start cycle I get misfires and air surge. I ran the fault reader and got the P0300-P0304 (Misfire faults). Obvious thing to check were plugs and packs. So I changed them. No change.
I read in a bunch of threads that these faults as well as air surge are a sign of the PCV Valve. I have a catch can kit on order so I will see if that wotrks. My guess is no. Another thing I think it could be is the N75 valve however, this issue only occurs during the cold start cycle. After the cold start cycle is done I have no issues what so ever. So I ruled out the N75 valve. If it was bad, then it would be bad regardless of how cold/warm the engine was. I have attached a video of the Cold Start.
View 6 Replies
2005 gti 1.8t having really rough idle and misfires at idle fine while driving pulling codes:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0304
Unplugged MAF and didn't make a difference...
View 6 Replies
It all started a few months ago.... I started my car, and it started noticeably misfiring, CEL flashing and everything. I scanned it with my vagcom and it came up Cylinder 1 Misfire and Random Multiple misfire. I popped the hood, made sure everything was seated correctly, and shrugged.
Ordered some new wires for it, since it had 80k miles on it with original wires, I figured why not. The misfire didn't come back.
A few weeks later, same thing happened. Misfires, flashing CEL, same codes. I ended up driving it the 5 minutes to work anyways and figured I'd look at it later after I got off.
8 hours later I started it up again, ran like a champ, no CEL on. The problem didn't come up again for 3-4 weeks.
So now, without fail, every month or so, I'll get the same issue. It doesn't matter if it's raining or sunny or cold or warm. But if I let it sit for a few hours, it'll act like it never happened.
Now, I haven't replaced the coil pack yet, simply because it doesn't sound like a coil problem, but I might do it just for the hell of it. New plugs and wires have already been done.
View 1 Replies
My Mk4 R32 has been in the shop for a week now. My number 2 cylinder began sporadically misfiring on the highway and then once I turned the engine off and then back on it would run fine until I got back on the highway and began to accelerate up to about 60.
Took it in and the mechanics couldn't replicate the code. Got a vacuum tube replaced and and it ran fine until I got to the highway. Same issue.
At this point the fuel injector has been replaced and its still throwing the code.
View 12 Replies
So I bought a used 1.8t back in august. My second golf, up from an mkiii and I love it. However, the previous owner installed a CAI and being that he lives in the desert, probably never had any issues taking on water. Fast forward to my problem, got caught in a rainstorm, limped it home with the CEL and the traction lights on. it died like three times trying to get it home, but it still would idle when I parked it.
Now I've used the search feature extensively on this problem, and what I've down so far is to take off the intake and reroute it about six or seven inches from the maf, I've cleaned the filter, maf, pancake pipe, and SMIC with denatured alcohol and those are all currently drying. When I took the IC off, specifically the connection between the pancake and the IC, a good three cups (~30oz/850sillyliters) of water dumped out.
Again, my car still was idling when I parked it. Scanned the CEL and got misfires and maf low air codes. Before I started tearing down the intake I took the coils and plugs out and put my shop lights above the valve cover to generate a little heat, maybe make a lil water evap from the cylinders. I live in a pretty arid climate, IE all the water that fell onto my garage floor was gone in 24 hours. Prolly wishful thinking but whatever.
My plan next is to put everything back together when it's all dry, pour a lil oil down into the cylinders, and crank it while the spark plugs are out. Hopefully any residual water will shoot out, along with the oil/gas, and I can go back to enjoying my life.
Also, the intake is hot. I'm thinking any water that made it past the intercooler would've been steam/vapor and I shouldn't need to remove that? Also it seems like it's in a conformation that would force any residual water to drain either into the cylinders or back into the intercooler, so I really don't see any gains by removing and cleaning it
View 7 Replies
Car: 2011 VW GTI MkVI
Mileage: 79k
Configuration: Stock
Warranty/Coverage: None
So I started my car last Monday and the check engine light was on. Didn't think much of it because the car ran fine and there were no immediate symptoms. I was busy with work this week, but noticed some changes in the car's performance over time so I waited till Thursday to have it scanned at AutoZone, which threw the following codes:
P 300 Definition: Random Engine Misfire
Explanation: Lean air/fuel ratio
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
P 302 Definition: Cylinder 2 Misfire
Explanation: Vacuum leak on engine
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
P 303 Definition: Cylinder 3 Misfire
Explanation: Vacuum leak on engine
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
Prior to making any purchases I noticed that I started losing some pickup, primarily in lower gears between 2-3k RPM's. Praying that it was somehow just the coils/plugs I bought the R8 pack for both and replaced them this evening. Engine starts up and continues to misfire. I have not had a chance to have it scanned but it would appear it isn't the plugs or coils.
When the plugs were removed, there was an 'oily' substance on the threads, which also seemed like it could have been burnt off fuel or oil pushed up from the cylinder. Also 2 of the plugs seemed looser than the others and didn't feel properly sealed. New R8 install included proper plugs for STOCK application, as I do not run any tuning, and i installed with the appropriate plug grease added lightly to the threads.
I took the car for a spin with the R8 coils/plugs installed to compare it to how the car was doing prior the install. Car misfires and seems fine (relatively) at idle and revving to 2-3k rpm yields NO change. It is almost unable to accelerate up a hill, or go past 30 MPH without the car shaking and any gear higher than 3rd seems not drivable. I feel these are my potential diagnoses before i bring it somewhere and have it looked at.
In Order of Most Likely:
1) Fuel Injectors
2) Air Intake
3) High Pressure Fuel Pump
4) Electronic Leads for the Coils
5) Battery Needs Changed
6) Chain Tensioner Failure
7) Coils and Sparks are all Bad, and I am an idiot
I would prefer to do this work myself and can afford the parts. I just didn't want to be fooling around all month without a mode of transportation to get to and from work.
View 12 Replies
I have an 03 vr6. I'm getting codes p0300, 0303, and 0304. I changed the plugs and the coils and still has changed nothing. In the morning when I first go to start the car it has a rough start and idles rough. But after letting it warm up it is fine. It drives perfectly fine, no misfires. None of this started happening until the car ran hot a few weeks ago. Did a compression test and everything came up fine. So would could my issue be? I'm at a loss here. I was thinking fuel issue but if it was a fuel issue, wouldn't it run rough all the time?
View 15 Replies
Ok so I'm having weird issues with my big turbo R. I thought I was having misfires in low rpm range. Car was stumbling and just not firing on all cylinders ( just an expression but that's what it felt like) realized it was because of the esp. Ok no the main issue. Vacuum was sitting around 14hg. When I come up to a light or stop sign or just put in neutral while moving it revs it self ad vacuum will go to almost 0hg until I come to a full stop.
The rev is not a big rev only like 100-150 rpm increase. Also the throttle response is not there if I go to rev match down shift. Here's the weird part. If I unplug the Maf it runs super smooth 19-20hg vacuum amazing throttle response clutch chatter almost goes away. There are no cel with or without the Maf plugged in I have logs for both...
View 7 Replies
2000 Jetta MKIV ... 2.0L GL
I've been dealing with random misfire codes on my Jetta (P0300, P0301-P0304). I've since replaced the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, MAF senor, & camshaft positioning sensor but the problem still persists. The misfires occur right on start-up and don't stop which is leading me to the coil pack being bad.
View 6 Replies
I replaced the coilpack from the dealer last Summer. It got better as it wouldn't even start for a while after it finished raining. However it has still been finicky even after replacing it. Which brings me to the realization that water runs down the fender panel and ends up on the ground cable located under and to the right of the battery. Am I correct that this would cause the same symptom as a bad coil pack? It seems simple...move the cable right? However should water be doing that? Cause this little sucker is not stopping anything. Just need validation I guess...get new hood insert?
View 5 Replies
My brothers car is a 2000 VW Golf 2.0 that recently started starting rough in the morning, when the motor is cold it will struggle to even turn on and will act like its only running on like 2 or 3 cylinders for a second and most cases stall, he is having to pump the throttle to get it to even stay cranked until it all sudden just starts idling fine and it idles perfect but still acts boggy if you try to rev it right away as its warming up, after about 10 seconds of it idling the motor can be revved perfectly fine and you can turn the car off and it will start back up immediately..
View 1 Replies
