Golf/GTI VI :: CEL Code P2015 / Flap Motor Not Working Correctly
Oct 16, 2014
I got the known p2015 code about a month ago and the CEL is on. Here is my situation though...I went and had my car tuned for an APR stage 1+ tune with stock hardware, everything was fine. I then upgraded to a catless 3 inch downpipe (ebay on that links up to the stock downpipe) and a short ram intake and decided to go to the 2+ to delete the engine code for not having a cat.
While I was there, the guy tuning my car said on top of the code for not having a cat, there was a code for my intake manifold saying that one of the motors for a flap wasn't working correctly. I left there expecting to see a code but it never came back on. After4-5 months, I had to pass emissions. Obviously you cant pass with the 2+(found that out the hard way) so I had to have it returned to a regular stage 1 with the stock downpipe. Still no sign of a code for the intake manifold.
I passed emissions and then put my downpipe back on, however, I decided to buy the 200 cell cat from 42DD to weld into my downpipe to save me from having to constantly get my car tuned just to pass emissions. After welding in the cat, I still had a CEL. I went to advance auto and it said I had a code p2015 Intake Manifold Runner Sen Sw Ckit Rng/Perf B1.
I went and got my car tuned to the stage 2 for the hi flow cat and the light is still on. My question is, do I need to replace the whole intake manifold or is there a possibility that I could replace just a sensor? I have a 2012. If just replacing the intake manifold will solve this issue, I'll probably just buy [URL] .... and replace it myself (assumable that's what I need ).
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Now that I have VCDS, I see a problem I never knew I had ... An error on the Air Con. I am not aware of any issue, it appears to do what I ask it. I cleared the error and it appears to appear again on a scan.
On reading the self study guide this looks like it might be an obstructed flap for the recirculation. I will have a close look next weekend.
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 3D0-907-040.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 3D0 907 040 J
Component and/or Version: Climatronic D1 2031
Software Coding: 0000001
Work Shop Code: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 254B0F7DE8FA196
1 Fault Found:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
014 - Defective
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My husband has a 2011 GTI, which has just hit the 40k mileage mark. His CEL started coming on in March, but we figured it was due to him not tightening the gas cap enough, as he'd open and relock the gas cap, and the CEL would go away within a few restarts of the car. Took it into the stealership last week, got the 40k service (which was a bit of a rip-off in itself), and then got told the manifold was bad.
This is the exact text for the invoice: "Checked the vehicle for codes and found code P2015. Traced the intermittent failure to the intake manifold valve flap sensor failing."
I've seen a lot of posts around this problem, for many models and years, but it seems like most people managed to get it repaired under warranty / TSB. So I have three questions:
1. In the OBD codes, does it store date as well as code? In other words, is there a way to prove that this failed under 36k miles?
2. What's the process for getting this escalated to VWOA customer care, since I feel this should be taken care of under warranty?
3. The dealership we took the car to (which is not where we purchased the car, but is just closer to home) was shady, and the guy we worked with was, to say it nicely, a jerk.
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Soild CEL, autozone pulled a P2015 code, but couldnt find it for VW in their system, just hyundai, toyota, dodge, and kia codes came up.
Looked around and everywhere says it's the notorious MKVI IM replacement issue.. Im under PT warranty until Nov. '15 so im good there.
Heres the catch.. sometimes it goes off without any changes to the vehicle. First thing (before the obd2 reader from autozone) i checked was my gas cap, that will cause a CEL sometimes, next time I started the car the CEL was off. the next day, without touching the gas cap since, the CEL was on again, today its off
car idles fine, drives fine, MPG are fine, pulls fine, stops fine, steers fine, everything works in the car. year: 2011
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So I swapped an R motor into my 20th anniversary GTi. It idles fine as soon as I rev it and the idle comes back down it starts breaking up and I get a code for exhaust flap no communication. Of course, there is no communication since I don't have one. Is there a way to code this out or to trick the ECU to make it think its there? As soon as i clear the code the car runs fine, even if I just turn the car off and back on, it runs fine.
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I have vw phaeton 4.2 v8 2003. nice car but have some problem's. First problem on engine when i check with VAG i see this messege
Address 01: Engine Labels:
Control Module Part Number:
Component and/or Version:
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
VCID: 55A167DFACF48DB6975
3 Faults Found:
18393 - Coolant Control Module 2 (J671)
P1985 - 002 - Malfunction
18308 - Coolant Fan Control 2
P1900 - 004 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A
Need change second cooler or what???
Second problems is more bigger , my car not worming interior.. only warms when I push gas pedal and keeps on 3000 Throttle or more... when i check on vag i get message
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels:
Control Module Part Number:
Component and/or Version:
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
VCID: 55A167DFBFF48DB6975-5000
4 Faults Found:
00018 - Motor for Cold-Air Flap (V197)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
00020 - Motor for Blocking Flap; Defrost and Body Vents; Right (V199)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
00026 - Motor for Distribution Flap; Right (V205)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
00024 - Motor for Cold-Air Flap; Center Console Rear Right (V203)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
When I try delete , that impossible delete. What to do ? maybe need change interior car radiators??
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My drivers door window switch no longer does the one touch operation. Yesterday I rolled the window down and it wouldn't come back up. After driving around for a while with the window down, I was successful in getting it to roll back up. This was after several repeated tries and shutting the car on and off. Does this mean I probably need a new switch? Is this a somewhat common issue?
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Had a P2015 code today on my 2009 Tiguan. Does this mean I have to replace the entire manifold ?
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
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I have a 2011 Tiguan S 4Motion with just over 63k Miles which for the most part has been problem free and great to drive since I leased it at 40k miles. About 2 weeks ago my CEL came on and I used the Torque app on my phone to check the code and it was the apparently well known P2015 intake manifold runner position switch code. The car was running perfectly fine so I cleared the code and it stayed off for about a week before coming back on with the same fault again yesterday. I have a couple of questions for the much more knowledgeable than I people in this forum around this code.
First - I've read in several places that VW has placed an extended warranty on the manifold and fuel injectors for the 2.0 TSI and that this code is usually an indicator that the manifold needs to be replaced under this warranty. What I haven't found though is conclusive info on is whether the 2.0T in my 2011 Tiguan is covered under this extended warranty. Since this code so conveniently is popping up just 3k miles past the end of my 60K mark, I'd like to know this. I leased the car from Enterprise, not a dealer so I'm worried that whatever dealer I take it too will try to bend me over on the service so the knowledge that the manifold is still covered would be at least some comfort.
Second - I won't be able to get it in to a service department until mid next week and I have a 300 mile trip to make this weekend. The car is driving fine as far as I can tell so I'm not overly concerned. I do my own basic maintenance i.e. oil changes, plugs/coil packs etc. but I'm thinking changing the manifold would be a little bit out of my comfort zone..
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I have a 2003 toyota solara se v6 I got the engine light on the other day and I noticed the gas cap was not good so I bought a new gas cap from the deal and put it on then my engine light went off. But now after 3,3 days of putting the new gas gap it's back on again what I noticed now is I'm missing the fuel filler neck flap (little metal round thing ) it's where you put the gas nozel to fill the tank and also it's showing the code PO446.
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I have been a check engine light on and off for the past few months. I finally got the codes read and I have P2015, Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1, and P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire.
The car had 80,000 miles, APR intake, Downpipe, Exhaust, and tune. When I had this work done I had engine problems and replaced the spark plugs and Upgraded Coil packs from the R8. Two years later and I get these error codes.
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I dyno'd my car a couple of weeks ago and we found that the torque curve was a trough instead of a bump compared to stock - down about 10. HP was down maybe 5 (I don't have the printout in front of me). Magically, at 4100 rpm, it crossed over the stock curve and then was + 10-15 HP above stock, as you would expect from tune, intake, and exhaust. So it seemed that the power port vacuum valve was not activating. We did not have time to diagnose, so I went home and T-d in a vacuum gauge under the actuator.
From the info. I have been able to find, the flap in the manifold closes at 900 so that just the long runner torque pipes are open to the valves. And then it opens to the tuned closed port at 4100 rpm. On a cold start, there is a brief period when vacuum appears on the gauge, then it goes away and does not come back regardless of the engine revs. So, given the low torque curve below 4100, I am wondering if for some reason the internal flap is stuck in the open position.
What else I should be looking at? For instance, at idle, the flap should be open. Does this mean that the little white plastic lever is pulled down, or pushed up? If the valve is active, there should be vacuum under the actuator, right? Any way to tell if the solenoid is getting a signal from the ECU to activate it?
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I would like to know what code is responsible for the exhaust flap. Seems like it is permanently open. The solenoid in the left rear wheel well works; but valve is fully open during idle and driving.
As much as I love my car sounding like a beast, my house and my passengers are losing sleep and experiencing hearing-loss.
We tried looking for any leads, but came back empty handed from the dealership. I've also reached out to the tuning company, and confirmed that the software itself does not affect the valve controls.
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The vehicle in question is a 2001 Windstar. The OBD Data Link Connection is not working properly. When I plug in my scanner it DOES power up and will read the ABS info, but will not read anything else.
The scanner is new, and a pretty good one for a DIYer, and I've tried it in other vehicles. I've also tried another reader that also didn't work on this van. So I don't think it's the scanner.
My Haynes manual has no info on how to wire a DLC or how to repair/replace one. How can I fix this?
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2010 Sonata, AC isn't working correctly so we added 1 1/2 cans freon. Got the temps down to 40 and then it was running for about a half hour, we started the car after it sat for 20 mins and it appeared that the ac "vented" some freon out. The pressures were 225 high side and 33-35 low side, the ambient temp is around 87 degrees. The venting appeared to be committed no from the lower drivers side condenser. I may be wrong, but never seen this before. Anyway, after it "vented" his ac basically stopped working but the ac gauges still read 210 high side and around 25 low side......
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I got a new resistor since my last one was in a puddle of water and installed that today and still have no heater blower motor. I checked all the fuses and have power. I sent power to the blower itself and it spins good. So somewhere between the fuse and the blower it isn't working. I need to take the controls out and test for power there. Didn't have time to do that today. What wires to check or where to start trouble shooting?
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Blower motor has stopped working on my 2008 jetta 2.0. Motor works fine and I have traced the issue back to the fan switch connector which is not getting power. Seems like it should be a fuse issue, but they all seem to check out fine. Not sure where else to look. Is there a relay upstream that could be bad? I have owned since new and it has never been apart.
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So my auxiliary battery started dying and I had to jump start it when it was dead. One dark morning I reversed the cables on my wife's car when jumping it. The portion on the Prius that I had hooked up the cables to started glowing. I unhooked them, and when I got inside my car I noticed several warning lights on (ABS, etc). Once I got the car started I drove to work, but the brakes were no longer working correctly, and if I hit them hard they would lock up and I would skid, with tons of white smoke from the tires. I took the car to Toyota, but they wanted $550 to replace the auxiliary battery and run a diagnosis. They said they could not run any computer tests as the car's auxiliary batter was too low.
So I ordered the battery. In the meantime, the brakes wore down to metal on metal on the front driver's side. I took the car to Firestone and they wanted $850 to replace the pad, rotor, and caliber, which they said was stuck. I then put the new auxiliary battery in the car myself (it was relatively easy) and took it to Toyota. They said the ABS relay needed to be replaced. After waiting two days for the part to come in, I then get informed that the skid control ECU needs to be replaced, at which point they will "recheck as necessary with diagnosis." After doing some googling, there is some indication that the problem might not be the skid control ECU.
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2010 Passat.....the driver seat controller started acting up today...it will not raise or lower the seat any longer ....front to back works.....seat angle works.....front of the seat cushion still works...but the seat height no longer adjusts.
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I have a 2006 Passat 2.0T (UK Model), and I'm having trouble with both the outside temperature reading and the climatronic's cooling ability. When I bought the car the air-con was blowing cold and warm air without any problems, but the "cold" air is just a little too warm to be working correctly. I've had the system re-gassed but this didn't solve anything.
As I said, all the features of the air-con work perfectly, it's just the cold air just isn't cold enough - so it seems to me that the compressor is working fine. Also, the outside air temperature reading on the MFD reads about 5-10 degrees too warm. Would this have anything to do with the air-con issue?
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