Golf/GTI VI :: Broken Pedal Light Bracket - Full Dash Replacement To Fix It?
Feb 26, 2010
Right above the foot rest on the driver's side is a bracket with a light and some kind of purple connector -- it's attached precariously with one screw on a VERY thin piece of plastic that i inadvertently hit with my foot and broke off. is this going to require some crazy full dash replacement to fix?
When it broke, it was dangling by wires behind my brake pedal, which seems incredibly dangerous. Just wondering how badly I'm going to get hosed on getting this strange lapse of german engineering fixed.
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The other day when i wanted to start the car, I found out my battery was death so i decided to ask my buddy to push me and crank it on gear. Car shakes as normal and engine started, but then i heard a weird noise like if something was rubbing. I turned it off and popped the hood. I found my engine leaning forward and toward the passenger side.
So the next morning, I checked the bay again and i found out that it wasn't the motor mount. Motor mount is ok, but then i found a broken bolt that holds the bracket to the block; the one that goes right next to the water pump to be more specific. Also in the back of the block there is a bolt that hold bracket to the block again and the thread whole was enough weak to break when the other bolt failed. So I did some research and i found that there is a solution for the bolt in back of the block.
What I am concerned is for the on the goes right next to the water pump. It seems that it broke the whole thing including the part where the bolt threads go. I just had a shop install I.E connecting rods, new piston rings, and rebuilt the heads. They put a new timing belt kit and all its job required. I think they might have a bit of fault on this since it had to be removed when they did the timing belt kit. Anyways I don't want to think my block will be a junk now because engine is running like a champ, and that would be a bummer.
-Bolt that is broken in two pieces.-
-And where it is attached to the block-
-Part of the engine where this all goes.-
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Managed to break loose a corner of the plastic air shield under head lights bracket is broken. Does epoxy repair kits will work ok on this.
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Someone broke the passenger side mirror on my '10 GTI. They broke only the glass, not the housing. Is the glass available as a replacement part, or do I have to replace the entire housing/assembly? If this is a quick cheap job, I'll do it myself.
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I swapped my fluid and ever since I did that my clutch and brake pedal are pulsing/vibrating only when I start the car. It almost feels like ABS pulsing but on both pedals and the car is obviously stationary.
I followed the procedure from the manual and did all 4 corners and slave.
Brakes work fine/clutch is fine...
I must have done something to upset the BRAKE system?
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I changed my oem clutch in my mk4 golf 2.0l with a stage 1 ecs tuning clutch kit. Lightweight flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing. But since I have my clutch pedal has been less stiff then usual. I like my clutch pedal as stiff as possible but it just isn't I bled off the slave cylinder. When I was done no air was coming out but it is still way to soft for me. What should I do next??
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My R is vibrating in second gear near full or full throttle around 2,000 Rpm. It feels like a high frequency vibration. It seems to be only happening in that scenario. It's when the turbo spools up and there is a large rush of exhaust gas produced very quickly. My guess is that my apr downpipe paired to the stock cat back is the culprit. It didn't happen when I first put the downpipe on, but after the next track day it started. I don't know if there is anything to burn in inside the apr downpipe but it got louder too. Could it be back pressure from the stock cat back? It's very strange and I wondered if it is stage 2+ but running the stock cat back has felt this? I checked to see if the drive shaft was rubbing on anything and for any other visual indicators of rubbing around the downpipe and I see nothing. Perhaps it's the stock muffler. I'm just not sure.
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I have a 1997 F150 XLT 4.6, standard transmission. the problem is every time I push the clutch the 4x4 light on the lower right of the dash pops on the power windows and windshield wipers will not work, releasing the clutch everything and goes back to normal, I checked the relay that was clicking every time I push the clutch in and switched it out same problem. As of yesterday the problem has now reversed, when the clutch is released everything doesn't work and a 4x4 light pops on.
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Windshield washer fluid light is on but reservoir is full.
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I have a 2001 F250 Crew Cab with Powerstroke. The dash lights are starting to go out one at a time. How do I get to and replace the bulbs?
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I recently had a check engine light come up on my 2004 r32. Dealer told me that the secondary air pump is broken and needs to be replaces, codes that came up were p1432, p1423, and p1411.
I replaced the pump and the next day I heard the "vacuum" sound of the air pump so I know that it works. A day later my check engine light come on again, and I cannot hear the pump anymore.
Now I just changed the pump, not even the rubbery inserts as I didn't know. The pipes seemed to be fine. I checked the quote from the dealer and they also mentioned that the intake pipe is broken, part number 1J0-131-128-AB.
Is that one of the pipes that is connected with the secondary air pump or it's the main intake pipe??? If it's from the main intake, is it possible that the secondary air pump want work because of that???
Should I change the rubbery inserts on the secondary air pump??? Is it safe to drive until I take care of this?
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I am having a problem with my 2004 Toyota Camry XLE V6 brakes. For the past couple months I keep seeing the brake dash light turn on and the brake fluid is constantly going down but I don't see any wet spots under the car. I needed rear pads so I kept thinking that it was just the fluid going down because of worn rear pads but I changed the rear brakes last weekend and still have this problem. Today when I went to drive the car for the first time of the day I heard this loud noise every time I stepped on the brake pedal. I checked the brake fluid level and it was a little below low so I filled it back up. I kind of feel like I've had to fully press down on the brake pedal lately to stop the car. There's plenty of brake power but I feel like I have to push all the way down and I don't remember it being like that.
Video of Noise: [URL] ....
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I've got an '08 R32 I bought in May, before that I had an '07 GTI, so I know the cars pretty well. I have a couple of issues with the R that I never had to deal with on the GTI .
1. On my GTI, the rear windshield washer was a very strong stream the shot straight up. On the R, I've noticed it is weaker, and recently, it barely sprays half of the area, and it also moves with the wiper, from about straight up and over to the left. Any adjustment to tighten it back up, or if it is supposed to move.
2. I just had a brake light burn out Monday. I know I need to get behind the plastic and undo the nuts to remove the brake light assembly, but I have two questions: First, what are the make and model of bulbs used so I can pick some up to change at home.
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What is he abs unit bottom bracket part number...
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I've just started to get what I can describe as a jet engine winding noise up when I accelerate when in drive, whatever gear and whatever speed. I'm thinking it's the auto gearbox, 92k miles (I've not checked oil), the noise doesn't happen when not in gear. It lags like a turbo noise, but if it was the turbo, it would happen always? There's no loss of performance and I can drive it normally with no noise, just if I accelerate harder whilst underway.
2007 2.9 diesel 6speed.
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I need a new upper driver side door seal and the plastic driver side fog light bracket but can find part numbers for my 2005 Ex.
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I recently broke the oil pan, my husband replaced it after about a month of waiting for new one to come. (Im afraid I didnt turn the car off in time and did something to the engine.) All was good after fixing it until after about a week of driving it i noticed some white smoke coming from tailpipe as i was accelerating to get on the highway. Drove it home and no smoke, drove it some more and NO smoke as getting on the highway! But then again a few days later it did it again!!! The car runs good no loss of fluids, no milky oil(not the head gasket) I would never know anything was wrong if I didnt have to get on the highway to go to town and see the smoke. I have been racking my brain on this computer trying to figure out what could be wrong? Someone followed me and said they smelled raw fuel from the exhaust smoke. But i dont know if its its an injector, I think its from breaking the oil pan??? But i dont know ???? Its a 2003 vw passat 1.8t 67,500 miles just bought the car so dont know much about the history. Seemed to be taken well care of so I dont know.
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A couple weeks ago I started experiencing some issues with what seems to be the ABS: when braking to a full stop, a "motor" sound appeared accompanied by vibration on the pedal; however, the ABS indicator light did not light on (although it does light on when I start the car). Several weeks later I began having problems with the transmission. It first appeared when putting the vehicle in reverse but now it happens in almost all gears. Finally, the "service engine soon" light turned on.
I took my car to the mechanic and he said the problem is a solenoid and quote a repair (includes valve body replacement and work). He claimed that the "ABS problem" is related to the transmission issue but as I explained above the "ABS problem" predated the transmission issue. My question is, does this link between ABS and transmission make sense? Also, if I go ahead and replace the transmission valve body can I be confident that I won't have any more issues with the transmission for a while? I am concern about spending more on this car giving its current trade value (I already replaced the front suspension struts, brake pads and rotor discs and new tires).
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2.5 Litre ... Okay, I've done this on other cars, both Fords without a problem but now I'm stuck on the no start situation. I have spark and my fuel pressure is 60 psi. About to do a compression test. Only issue with replacing the belt is that no matter how many times I try removing and installing it I'm always 1/2 tooth off after rotating the engine a couple of times but that shouldn't be enough for a complete no start. Tried starting fluid. Replaced cam sensor. new plugs. checked firing order. I have spark at #1 according to my test lamp which plugs inline.
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My flex pipe recently broke, and as a temporary fix I pieced it together using a universal flex pipe and some exhaust tape and clamps. When shopping around, I came across this:
Walker Exhaust Pipe 50465 - Read Reviews on Walker #50465
Is this an OEM part for a 2008 ford escape 3.0? It looks somewhat correct, although I do not remember seeing the other two fittings in that picture on it. (It looks like the end with the flex pipe is the end that connects to the catalytic converter, and the other two connect to the front and back headers on the engine, but I don't recall seeing a fitting like whats on the end of that flex pipe on my car (It could be that it was cut off, too).
If this is the OEM one, then perhaps the original exhaust shop cut off the fitting between the cat and where the flexpipe attaches. Is there a way that I can get parts to re-make this section of exhaust so that I can use this piece? The flex pipe they originally put in was too big and it came loose again forcing me to have to rig it again since I can't weld, and needed to get it fixed quickly.
I really do not want to replace the entire exhaust system if I don't need to, and hoping I don't have to.
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited and am having a major problem. On 3 different occasions, the accelerator pedal has stuck open at full throttle. At first I dismissed the problem as a fluke or the floormat and pedal getting stuck together.
This week while on vacation with my family in Myrtle Beach, SC, I was pulling onto a 4 lane and had to "punch it" from a dead stop to get up to speed with the other vehicles. When I got up to the desired speed I let off of the accelerator pedal and to my dismay the vehicle kept going. I told my family to hold on and immediately hit the brake and safely pulled into the median while the vehicle was still surging. With my foot on the brake my wife put it in neutral and the engine sounded like it was going to blow up. I checked to see if the floormat and accelerator pedal was stuck together somehow and they were not touching. I do not know if it was me freeing up the pedal with my foot or if the vehicle some how on it's own finally reved back down to normal RPM's.
In essence my family and I were in a runaway vehicle and luckily the braking system was strong enough to safely stop us while at full throttle.
This was a scary experience for my wife and I and a horrifying experience for my children. It was the exact situation Toyota had a couple of years ago with the accelerator sticking on their Prius models.
Is the accelerator system a mechanical one with a throttle cable going to the throttle body or is everything computerized. I do not know if it is a mechanical or computer problem.
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