Golf/GTI VI :: Broken Brake Pad Sensor Harness
Feb 2, 2013
The wire pulled out of the back of the connector on the harness side... I know I could just cut the connector off and hard wire the thing together but I would like do do it as cleanly as possible...
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What is that called? Mass air flow sensor wiring harness? I google 2011 vw gti MAF wiring harness, and i get nothing, or crap thats almost not related to what im looking for. While I was installing my intake, I accidently cut half of the wire to my MAF located behind the battery. Why I was cutting, dont ask, i was impatient. Anyways, what is it called? I want to replace my MAF and the wiring that leads to it.
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I just replaced my CTS, and I noticed that there is a small section of exposed harness wiring between the end of the loom and the CTS connector. I can't tell if it came loose when I swapped the sensor, or if it was this way for awhile, but all of the other harness connections around this area are completely covered and the loom end doesn't seem to clip into the connector or anything. If I were to try and seal it, I would need to use tape.
How hot does this area get? It seems like there shouldn't be exposed wiring here.
Picture taken with the new sensor: [URL] ...
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Two of my plugs locking clips broke today on the wire harness side where the coil over plugs into the harness today while changing spark plugs. They will plug back up, but they won't lock together like they are suppose to. How critical is this? It is my wife's car will she break down? I drove the car maybe twelve miles, and everything seemed fine.
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I have a 2001 ford explorer sport and realized that the oxygen sensor on the passenger side behind the cat was unplugged from the harness.
I am unable to find the harness and dont know where its supposed to go.
I would like to get this fixed right away but can not find a diagram anywhere, or a manual...
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I've got an '08 R32 I bought in May, before that I had an '07 GTI, so I know the cars pretty well. I have a couple of issues with the R that I never had to deal with on the GTI .
1. On my GTI, the rear windshield washer was a very strong stream the shot straight up. On the R, I've noticed it is weaker, and recently, it barely sprays half of the area, and it also moves with the wiper, from about straight up and over to the left. Any adjustment to tighten it back up, or if it is supposed to move.
2. I just had a brake light burn out Monday. I know I need to get behind the plastic and undo the nuts to remove the brake light assembly, but I have two questions: First, what are the make and model of bulbs used so I can pick some up to change at home.
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Just bought a 2002 4.6 v8. Check engine light was on and it pulls code po340 for the camshaft position sensor. I took a look at it and found its not plugged up. The plug is missing but the two wires are still there. I can replace the two wire plug but does it matter which wire goes to which side of the sensor?
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Replace the tft but still the problem, someone cones the number part of tft sensor harness, and as replace , 2006 f350 4x4....
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I was cleaning my brake calipers and noticed that neither of my calipers have pad wear sensor connected to pads.
My 2012 GTi had sensor on the inner pad, but I cannot find one installed on my MKVii GTI. Looking for a photo of the caliper and the location of the sensor?
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I have a 2004 Elantra GLS. My left rear brake was hanging (wheel was very hot to the touch after driving, while other wheels were not), so I had a friend check the brake pads. We decided to replace the pads and rotors. While doing so, the parking brake seemed stuck in the on position, so I opted to have him disconnect it completely until I could afford to replace it. I had used it for the first time about 2 weeks before I noticed the hot brake problem, so we figured that must have been why the brake was hanging.
My friend replaced the rotors and pads, put some penetrant/lubricant on the piston of the caliper and reassembled the brakes. He did use the special tool to spin the caliper in when putting the pads on, however he didn't know that was necessary and tried to force them in with a C-clamp first.
Now, I seem to have two problems:
1. The left rear brake still hangs sometimes. I will drive the car and when I park it I can feel the heat coming off of the left rear wheel. It is extremely hot, so I know the brake is hanging (even with the parking brake disconnected). What is the problem here? Is the caliper bad? Would replacing the caliper solve the problem? Does the parking brake have to be connected to stop the caliper from hanging up?
2. My second problem is the pulsating of the brakes. I am afraid the rotor is warped because of the heat, or maybe he didn't clean everything well enough before he put the new rotor on. How can I figure out what the problem is? Is there a way to check a rotor to see if it is warped? Could there be another reason I feel the pulsating brakes? By the way, the brake fluid is full.
If the caliper needs to be replaced and I can leave the parking brake disconnected, are there any special instructions my friend should know about before working on this? He does work on a lot of cars and rebuilds cars to sell, so he is pretty knowledgeable. I think the only thing he didn't know about was rotating the piston. I would like to provide him with detailed instructions if necessary.
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Where does the 3rd brake light wiring harness plug into on a 2000 GP ? It's just hanging down and I don't see where it plugs into. I'm talking I'm the trunk area.
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I am going to be pulling a trailer next week. I bought a raybestos voyager XP controller. I expected it to be plug and play but what I got was four wires. I have heard that there is a plug ready under the dash to plug a controller into directly. I found a gray pigtail with male ends. Is this it? Should I take controller back and get one with the correct plug or is there a harness one can buy or is a stop to my local ford dealer in the future.
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I have been debugging DTC codes 2237/2238 and what sounds like detonation in a failed catalytic converter in my old 2007 Prius (375,000 miles!), I just removed the wipers and cowl yesterday to look at the air/fuel ratio sensor connection, and my connector appears to be melted somewhat, sides of the connector show signs of melting I am guessing that there is a connection problem stemming from this and the root cause of my DTC codes.
Can the four wires each side be removed so I can get the connector out to look at it carefully?
Can the bad connector be removed and the four wires be simply spliced together to get the air/fuel sensor working again? I did note that the colors of the wires going in are NOT the same as the colors of the wires going out.
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2002 My friend's 2.7L sante fe crankshaft position sensor went bad and I went to replace it. Removed bolt, it was stuck fast, tried to pry out and it broke off leaving the last 1/2 inch stuck in block. Tried drilling a hole in it and using a screw to get it out but no luck. Afraid to keep drilling that I might damage something behind it. How to get it out?
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The truck is running awesome but I am getting absolutely no boost. Question. If the map sensor is broken would I get no boost?
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(6 speed)... I have faulty reverse lights, my speed sensor is working so I am sure it isn't the fuse, I am guessing this means the switch/sensor is broken. Where it is located, and what the correct part number is?
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So I'm getting code p0500 the question I have is will the speed sensor on the tail on my transmission cause this code on my 99 f150 4x4 . the reason I ask is because this sensor has been broken off . I'm hopeful it only control's my speedometer and is not related to the code . I've tried to remove what is left however in fear if I get it loose it may fall into the transmission. I will be replacing the speed sensor on the pumpkin this weekend . but the transmission it's the upper one is broke off below the surface of the transmission this is a manual transmission....
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We bought a 2012 f550 chassis and had a utility bed outfited. As far as I know the truck does not have a tow package (major F-up). They did install a receiver and electric in the rear. The 7 way pin in the rear does have the appropriate wires (including blue). I can not find the harness in the cab under the dash. I have looked near the radio where I have found the harness on our other trucks. I specifically looked for the red white and blue wire under there. Where is this harness? Is the harness still in the cab even without the tow package? This will be for the old school plug in controller, not the ford intergrated contoller.
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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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So my haldex stopped working, I found it to be caused by the wiring harness connector on the back of the diff was internally corroded badly... I want to repair this correctly with both a new male and female connector and im going to need new pins for the wire that shorted in the connector.
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I own a 2002 GTI and my sunroof was damaged beyond repair.
A local headliner shop had a used 2004 Jetta sunroof which he sold to me. The shop owner said everything was in working order with the sunroof except the wire harness that runs to the sunroof was missing the plug since it was cut. He recommended just taking the plug from my GTI sunroof motor and soldering it onto the Jetta motor since it may throw off the "timing" of the sunroof motor and would need to be recalibrated if removed. Keep in mind he is an authorized Webasco dealer so I took him at his word.
I cut my plug off of my GTI sunroof motor harness and began to solder it onto the Jetta sunroof.
I quickly noticed the Jetta sunroof motor had one extra wire (Brown). I didn't think it would be a big deal since my GTI doesn't have 6 wires and only requires 5 so I mounted the new sunroof with the Jetta motor onto the car.
The sunroof retracted back into the "fully open" position and would close but would not go into the "vent" position. Each time I would turn the dial to the "vent" position, the sunroof would slide back into the "fully open" position.
I thought this was a bit strange and now I am beginning to wonder if I need to swap the GTI sunroof motor on my car due to it not have the extra wire or is the Jetta sunroof motor going to work fine but another issue is causing this to happen?
Below are the differences in the two sunroof motors. Both are Bosch products.
Jetta Sunroof Motor - Part Number : GDO 849 696 564
This part has 6 wires that connect to it.
White, Green, Gray, Blue, Purple, and Brown
Where as the GTI has only 5 wires on it.
GTI Sunroof Motor - Part Number : GDO 849 696 566
White, Green, Gray, Blue, and Purple
The difference between the two is the additional BROWN found in the Jetta sunroof motor.
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