Golf/GTI VI :: Brakes Give Out When Lose Traction
Jun 8, 2014
So I'm not sure if this is normal or not, considering it's not an issue I had with my mark 4. I'm new to my mark 6, and I noticed something a little bit terrifying today on the freeway. When I was in a conversion lane, from one freeway to the next (basically a very large, and hard-turning lane) I noticed that i would lose traction. As in my traction control light would come on. Going about 60, yes I know it's a little fast for these lanes seeing as they're usually is a 45 limit on them. Anyways, when the light came on, I would try to hit the brakes a little, and my brakes would give out. My pedal would lose all pressure, and my wheels and what not felt like I had just hit a tire or something on the freeway.
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2007 Explorer Limited . The traction control light will start flashing and the engine will lose all power, it slows to 30-40 mph, then goes again and the light goes out. This is intermittent and seems to happen the most when the engine is cold. This morning it wouldn't go over 20 mph and finally warmed up and went well enough to get it home. There is no check engine light or codes saved. This is my wife's driver, and it completely stopped one day and threw a check engine light. She turned it off and restarted and the light went away and the car would go again. I've read Ford had bad throttle bodies, (TPS)...
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86 f150 4x4
brake pedel goes straight to the floor but if u give it short pumps of the pedel it grabs but barley....master cylinder or the booster?
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My daughter drives a 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse. About 6 months ago, she noticed that occasionally when driving over a bump in the road her brakes lose pressure. The pedal goes nearly to the floor and the car is harder to stop. After a few days/weeks, the brakes return to normal. I was skeptical at first, but drove the car after one such incident and confirmed the lack of pressure. However, a Mitsubishi dealership couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes while a specialty brake shop wanted to replace the master cylinder.
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My 2003 ford expedition with the 4.6 v8 engine is having an issue i cant seem to pin point. The lights will get bright and then dim and the engine will die and I will lose power steering and brakes, it will start back up when i put it in park. Also while I am driving randomly the rpms will shoot up to between 3 and 4,000 rpms and go back down. I have seen a video on youtube that says the fuse box in this model is very likely to short out and ruin the circuit board. Mainly looking for any experience any of you have with a issue like this. The check engine light is on, Showing two codes for running too lean and a code for Idle air control valve. Mileage is 239,000 ...
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The problem occurs when you hit bumps while braking, or if you get on the brakes to hard. It seems like the brakes lose pressure entirely and the pedal goes to the floor. It kicks back in when the ground smooths out, or if you are braking hard it slowly grabs again. At first i thought it was sliding, but it definitely is not. The truck appeared to be equipped with abs but the previous owner seems to have cut the abs wire/sensor at the hub. Another thought i had is maybe the brakes need to be bled and have fresh fluid put in them, I have not tried this yet (Plan to this weekend along with a dozen other things). Its rather scary when it happens. but i didnt think much of it until i nearly rear ended someone..with my younger brother in the car. Now i need to fix this asap.
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So I have an odd whistle noise, when I give it a little gas it makes a faint whistle noise. Only happens on acceleration with a little gas, I don't think it's the turbo.
2016 GTI SE DSG - no mods...
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I've got an E99 powerstroke. Recently it's been getting hard to steer, if not impossible. When I'm parked i can't turn the wheel and it gets better if i Rev the engine up, driving is usually ok and going around corners. It's just low speed, low rpm that it won't.
Also every once in a while when braking it feels like i lose all power brakes. The pedal goes to the floor and the brakes let go, then i can feel the pedal pump back up and i get a good feeling brake pedal again that actually stops well. All this happens within about a seconds time. But the steering is by far the worst.
I just did the power steering flush with atf and it didn't work. I'm thinking i need a new power steering pump, but want to ask here first to make sure. The truck has 290,000 on it, and it never has been replaced to my knowledge. I bought the truck with 147,000 however so it may have been done before that.
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I just wanted to share with you all a cautionary tale about belt tensioners and idler pulleys. I am now a firm believer in installing the aforementioned items when you replace your drive belt. 15000 miles ago I replaced the drive belt and didn't heed the warning of some here on the forum.
For the last month or two I have noticed what sounded like road noise which I dismissed because I had just had new tires installed that had a more aggressive tread pattern than my previous tires, I also noted that the ECT had been a bit higher than normal, like running in the high 190's to low 200's on average.
Well while driving today I get the alternator warning light and lose power steering and soon after the brakes got stiff, this was followed by ever increasing ECT which got to 242* before I could get it off the road and shut down. It is too early to tell if the noises and the ECT temp rise were the result of this tensioner going out...
For what its worth the only tools required were a 10MM end wrench and a bit of skin to get the job done.
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I have a 2000 jetta with a 12v and it will cough and give a shake. Its not throwing a misfire code. The only thing I can think of is it being the intake shift rod.
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My display on the MFA and Climatronic panel is really wrong (-44C now). I was taking a look at the sensor in the front left grille but the only thing that's changing into the readings with my Vag-Com is the outside temperature sensor but not the displayed temperature.
I didn't find any other sensor on my car. Nothing into the rain tray...
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Today I was driving and all of a sudden the car started to seem like it wasnt responding well when giving the gas. then the check engine light came on flashing. I pulled over to check in my manual and it says there is a malfunction with the CAT, it started to smell like eggs. now i remember reading once that the smell of eggs is a burnt cat, is this the problem or could it be only the sensor ? How much a new one goes for ? how about the cat, how much does that go for ? if it is my cat how does putting in a high flow cat sound? good or bad ?
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Just letting Gen III drivers know that using an OBDII splitter and two gauges can sometimes cause a loss of regen braking and traction assist accompanied by various yellow lights on the dash. It can be restored by switching the vehicle off, unplug the OBDII splitter and restarting the car. This has happened to me on three seperate occasions.
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This all started more than a month ago. Our 13' GTI would cool off (temp gauge would drop) at idle. This did not take long, I could sit and watch the needle drop in a matter of just a few minutes. Next, the car would lose heat while driving. It could be 20 miles into a trip, and if you slowed down to say ~30 mph i.e., coasting to a stop, or slowing until a light changed the car would lose its heat. At one point, driving in heavy traffic, the car had no heat. Fan on 2, heat all the way up, at best you'd get luke warm if not cold air. Recirc did not make a difference. It simply struggles to stay up to temp, even under load.
The thermostat, water pump, check valve, and heater core have all been replaced by the dealership in an effort to fix the problem. I understand a small loss of heat idling with the heat up when its -15 out. My R actually cooled off a little bit the other day after idling (at 190 aka temp) for about 20 minutes. It was -15 and windy. The GTI isnt keeping heat, is slow to heat up, and randomly drops heat.
What am I missing here? This seems like a thermostat problem, however the thermostat was replaced! (they broke the water pump trying to replace the thermostat so that is new as well) It as never leaked coolant, it doesn't leak coolant, there are no codes thrown. The only modifications to the car is a raceland down pipe I installed myself. They have questioned if the down pipe could be causing this issue, which I highly doubt.
What kind of damage could this cause? Not staying up to temp, and being driven.
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Great car, Love it! It's a big improvement from the 2006 Prius.
When applying the brakes and holding the pedal down, I notice that the indicator for slippery/traction yellow icon appears in my dash when completely stopped.
There is no map option on the steering wheel that allows you to switch back to the Nav/Map system on the HD display. Is there a voice command?
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Coming home from the coast last night, my car started to hiccup and lose power. I had to pull over to the side of the road as no matter how much throttle I applied the car kept losing speed. The car was acting like it wasn't getting any fuel. Once stopped on the side of the road I revved the engine for about a minute and it picked back up. I drove the remaining forty miles home without further incident. Went out today to drive to the car and my car won't start. It will turn over, but will not start... again feels like it's not getting any fuel.
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I have a very very strange thing happening in my 2004 vw jetta 1.8t. at random times the car will lose boost and throttle response. I am not sure what it could be I have replaced quite a few parts and it still happens.
No matter what speed or how much boost the car will just drop pressure and the throttle goes numb. For example I will be cruising on the highway around 80 on 0lbs of boost or a few and then the throttle just quits, at that point I can push the throttle to the floor and no response.
To fix it I have to lift my foot off the throttle completely and then go back on to rebuild boost or pressure. There is no pattern on when it happens, its happened from 10mph to 90mph and it happened ins 8lbs of boost or in vacuum. When I lose boost or pressure the boost gauge drops the needle to the bottom of vacuum at like 30.
Things I've replace:
- diverter valve
- n75
- throttle pedal
- checked throttle body sensors
- replacing maf this week
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I use my 2011 GTI for track days and have done hundreds of laps with no issues. Yesterday, I got out on the track for the first session and almost immediately I got what has to be fuel starvation on long right-hand high speed turns. The car sputtered and lost power exiting the turn and would return to normal once it got going straight again. The only way I could avoid it was to feather the throttle, which of course doesn't do much for lap times. At that point the tank was about half full, so between sessions I filled it up. With the tank full, there was no problem, but it returned when the tank got down to about 3/4. I filled it up again, and once more it was fine for a while, but the problem returned, this time with about 7/8 of a tank, so I gave up. I drove home (about 100 miles) with no trouble at all.
I know that the fuel pick up is on the right side, so it makes sense that the problem would occur on long right-hand turns. Is it possible that the in-tank pump is getting weak, or that maybe something happened to the baffles in the tank? I have another track day in a month, so I need to get to the bottom of this.
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Ok my R is all stock 59k miles. This morning I was getting on the freeway and some AMG hold was on my ass so I floored it and accidentally hit the rev limiter. After that It smelt almost like burnt rubber in the car. I rolled the windows down and the smell went away in about ten min. I didn't lose any power and no check engine light came on. When I got to work I got out and looked under, no fluids leaking. But the smell was still there. I'm gonna look at it more after I get home from work.
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When flooring with 1st or 2nd gear engine suddenly lose power, smoke like hell (white smoke) and engine start to shake badly? It disappears after few minutes when engine turned off. When cold it will go in "that" stage almost on every flooring. When warm it possible will start to shake a little and disappear after a minute without turning off engine.
After CCV breather valve(was broken) , turbo and nozzle replacement this problem still exist.
What could cause that problem?
*Golf mk4 AHF 81kw with new turbo, new bigger nozzles and chip.
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My vr6 some times loses its power but it's weird because the check engine light does not appear. It does for like 30 seconds then it goes back to driving normally.
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