Golf/GTI VI :: Brakes Drag Or Get Stuck?
Feb 12, 2012
Yesterday I had my front end jacked up to adjust my coil-over's via spanner wrenches. After I had everything back on I lowered the car down and torqued the lug nuts. I got in to perform a test drive and maybe my parking brake was stuck, or my brakes were dragging. When I put it in reverse (Manual transmission) something was fighting me from moving. I applied the parking brake and then released it again. No luck, so I gave it some rev's and the car moved.
Now when going on sharper turns I hear a odd rubbing noise. It isn't from the wheels or tires. Today I checked my fender liners, because that is what it sounds like, they are ok. I though maybe somehow they were mis-aligned and it was causing the car the tire to rub. I sounds like it is coming from the right side. The car only has 500 miles on it and this problem started exactly after I lowered it down and the parking brake or a caliper was stuck.
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Well my car is back at the dealer, again. Last week they replaced the brain for the ABS and everything on the right rear. Well driving up to and back from Redding, Ca.the brakes started dragging again on the right rear.
This time the rotor had a orage tint to it from the heat when I looked at it. The gas mileage sucks and now this. If I have to take it back for a 3rd time, I am getting rid of it.
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I have an 02 Passat 1.8t that drags the brakes when I am driving to the point that they start smoking when I get off the interstate and my gas mileage is terrible. When I first observed this dragging I popped the hood and found that the check valve on the hose that connects to the end of the intake manifold had a chunk missing and was hissing. I did some research and found that this hose leads to the brake booster so i bought a new valve at the stealership and installed it and I am still having the issue.
I checked all the other hoses around that area and underneath the manifold for leaks and the only thing I found was a hole in the small hose that connects to the very front of the intake manifold that leads to the N249 thingy which i fixed but i haven't tested the brakes yet. When I start my car after it hasn't been on for a while my car does alright for about 10 minutes before the brakes start dragging again. Also pumping my brakes doesn't seem to work much.
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I have been having a brake drag problem with my '89 Jeep Wrangler. I posted this problem previously when I thought it was an E-brake issue. I did a rear drum spring set change. The problem persisted, so I asked the local auto parts store and they said it could be a faulty master cylinder which I just replaced. The brakes felt fine for the first 1/2 hour driving, then the pedal started feeling harder to push and the brakes were dragging again. I jacked the car up and removed the tires to find both front calipers tight on the rotor, the rears would spin. With someone pressing the pedal, I did not notice any caliper movement.
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My Neon's rear driver's side drum brake keeps locking up without me hitting the brake pedal. I have changed the hardware, wheel cylinder, brake shoes, brake hose, and the drum itself. Once the brakes heat up, the brake will start to drag (that is what it feels like) and then will lock up the rear wheel. I have bled those brakes at least 3 times, so I don't think there is an air bubble in the line. This has been going on for the last 2 months. Someone told me that I might have gotten a bad batch of brake shoes. Another told me that there might still be an air bubble in the line.
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My front disc brakes are creating a small amount of drag on the rotor. With the car jacked up and wheel off I am able to easily turn the rotor by hand, but there is a small amount of drag. I haven't had any problems with my brakes, they have never frozen or overheated, etc. I put new brake pads and rotors on the front about 6 months ago only because it was time for replacement. The question is: how much disc brake drag is acceptable? Looking around on the internet for answers there doesn't seem to be a consensus: some people say absolutely no brake drag, some say that a small amount is normal. What do you think?
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I recently bought a beater '89 F-150 (I-6, MT) with the following problems:
1) Both rear brakes seem to stick on occasion--almost like there was a "check valve" on the rear brake line. When that happens, there is a "BRAKE" and "Rear ABS" light (although the light does occasionally come on without brakes sticking noticeably).
What I noticed in Haynes is that the "RABS I" system functions in the following way: a) Upon noticing rear axle spinning slower than front axle, it actuates a valve, isolating the rear brakes b) If the problem persists, it then dumps the pressure back into the main system.
So, I wonder: Is this an ABS system acting up? If I were to (temporarily) de-power the ABS setup, would it default to "no ABS," or would I need to remove the hydraulic valves from the brake lines? (Don't really want to if I don't have to.)
2) You can select either fuel tank, get that tank's level to indicate on the fuel gauge...yet it only "draws" from the front tank.
Again, Haynes says there is a low pressure pump in each tank, feeding a high-pressure pump in essentially a small "header" tank. The "dual-function reservior" has a wholly mechanical selector, and notes that "Tank switching versus gauge conflicts can occur under certain failure mode conditions."
So: I can understand that the mechanical selector can, in effect, "stick" on one tank. But what I don't understand is how it can still draw from the front tank, with the "rear" tank selected (and presumably, that tank's low-pressure pump trying to feed the header tank.)
Is it possible that the low pressure pump--while beneficial to prevent gravitation at the main pump--isn't strictly necessary to fuel the engine? Or do I have a problem with a low pressure pump that's "always on," regardless of the selected tank?
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Two months ago, I replaced the rear drum shoes, wheel cylinders and seemed after that I was ok until today. I checked the rear brakes and they are split in half. i noticed my abs & brake lights lit up this morning. I would think the ABS is getting stuck? How do I check the ABS? This morning I felt like something was holding back the truck. I continued and when I got home I said to myself, let me just check the rear brakes and thais what I found. Both sides had the shoes broke.
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Basically, my car (2002 Mazda Protege) has been acting like my brakes are engaged. Not all the time, though - The first time I get out and drive it, it drives smooth as silk like always. But then after I put it in park and then get back in and head out (I'm a delivery driver, so this is constant), sometimes it feels like the brakes are constantly being pressed. No, the emergency brake is not on. Most of the time it's almost not even noticeable so, like an idiot, I put it off for the past week. But today, it was very, very, very bad. I was having to press the gas to the floor to get up to speed, and then it was constantly trying to slow down. My brakes were definitely getting burned up while it was doing this, but luckily it stopped.
It may be unrelated - I know I have an oil leak, but today I saw a very unusual spot where something leaked out in my driveway. I checked my oil, and it was where I expected it to be, but this was a relatively large stain which would be very unlike my current leak.
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Front brakes appear not to release all the way. At Times car does not accelerate . At times car vibrates at 60 MPh.
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I have a new-to-me 2001 Ex V10 4x4 w/ 132k. I'd say it's 85% and I'm slowly working to get it to 100%. Right now, I'm tackling the low hanging fruit. I'm trying to track down the front end clunks and creaks.
I cinched down on the driver side sway bar end link and it took out some of the clunk. I traced the remainder of the clunk to the drag link which I can rotate about 20-30 degrees by hand. Both grease boots are shot.
New rotors and pads get here Monday. While I change them, I'll be working the front end issues as well. I went ahead and bought the Energy Suspension sway bar bushing kit and will swap them all out. I also plan on replacing the drag link ends too.
My question is: do I need to replace my tie rod ends? The grease boots have definitely leaked but I can't detect any slop like the drag link. If the grease is leaking all over is that a sign that they need replacing?
I've never done steering work before but it looks straight forward. Any tips for a novice? Anything I should be aware of before I start? While I'm down there, is there anything else I should change while the steering is apart?
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So today, at a red light, i let off the brakes- I feel and hear a loud pop from the passenger rear. My first reaction, whatever brakes stick, happens.
Then it did it again, then again, a bit louder and a more dramatic feeling. It's my only driver as my TT is out right now in the body shop.
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I am replacing my rear leaf spring hanger and shackle. I have one side done and the other side the old hanger is off. I am ready to install but the bolt/ bushing in the leaf spring will not come out. I tried every thing with what i had for about 2 hours. Is there a tool to remove these things similar to a ball joint press.
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I have 2010 Camry Le 2.5l with 39600 miles on it. Bought used from my uncle. The car is pretty good but I don't like the nature of new 6 speed transmission. Its always downshifting and I can feel the drag feels like car is braking by it self. Is this transmission designed to do that? In my previous thread I post the same issue and got reply that I will get used to it but I already driven this car almost 2 months but I am not used to that drag/pull back feeling when ever I take my foot off the gas pedal. Is there any solution for this drag/pull feel?
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I've had an issue with my 08' for a few weeks after returning from a 1 week vacation with the car sitting on the street in NYC. The symptoms are a noise associated with poor performance of the vehicle. It accelerates slower and requires more RPM. When you take your foot off the accelerator it feels as though there is a brake on or some additional drag somewhere in the front end. It's really evident that it doesn't actually glide, but it decelerates rapidly.
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When I am driving along with my foot on the gas petal, the car slows down, it drags, (sounds like changing gears) then resumes speed all by itself. My friend told me he thought perhaps the gas was dirty and to get the gas filter changed. When I took it to the mechanic, he said my 2002 Toyota Camry six cylinder, automatic did not have a gas filter. The problems still exists.
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08' 4x4. I changed the front brake hoses because the truck felt like it was dragging a bit, when i would hit the gas from a stop, that seemed to work, I also changed the front rotors because when braking I was getting a pulsing feeling in the brake pedal. that fixed that.
Now I feel like there is still a bit of a slight drag when I'm at a stop and let off the brake. when im on level ground the truck creeps forward from a stop when letting off the brake, on the slightest incline the truck wont go forward at all.
Do the truck want to move forward on a tiny incline or no?
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I recently replaced my drag link which was loose and clunking around. I noticed my steering wheel is pointed at 11 while driving straight now. I'm not sure if it was like that before, the vehicle was new to me when I did most of the initial work.
It looks to me like I should be able to just adjust the drag link turnbuckle to change the steering wheel position but I'm not sure. Is that okay to do?
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I have a Toyota Corolla Altis Cruisetronic Automatic transmission. Car has done only 4000 km and is 8 months old.
Problem I am having is that when I release the accelerator pedal say while driving at 60 kph, the car does not freely coast but decelerates with a drag and tries to slow down to a stop. The drag is more serious with the a/c on. It does not like to remain in high gear. Previous auto transmission Corrolla's I have driven never gave me this kind of problem.
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I have a 2005 F150 4x4, with just over 75K, and I have owned it from new. I am having left front brake issues. The left front brake seems to drag, but of course does not do it consistentally or after a given type of braking event. It just does it very randomly. I originally replaced the caplier pins thinking one may have been hanging up. It seemed to fix the issue for a couple months then it happened again. So doing more inquiry it seems some have had issues with the front rubber lines.
I just had both front lines replaced with OEM Ford parts and the system flushed out at a dealer. The brakes again seemed to work fine driving home from the dealer anto work today. Then on the way home it did it again, started dragging. The truck starts to feel sluggish while accelerating and slows very quickly just lifting off the gas. then when you get out you feel the wheel and it is very HOT and you can hear a heat popping sound. (First time it happened it was smoking it got so hot.) Right side seemsfine.
Since it does it so randomly I am at a loss. I can not just drop it off at the dealer and say drive it until it. I am considering having the caliper replaced, which I really considered when it was at the dealer for the hoses since I had the IWE's done at the same time, so they were off.
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I have a 2010 model 5 and am experiencing a woo, woo, woo, woo type sound. I thought it was from the rear but after jacking up and turning each rear wheel, all I hear is the slight drag from the pads on the disc. The car has 61K on it and from previous posts that seems to be about the mileage range for one. It is most noticeable above 25 to 45 mph. Bad front bearing with this sound? The car is covered under the platinum warranty so cost is not a problem, just getting it diagnosed is useful.
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