I have a leak between the turbo and the exhaust manifold. The golden clamp (c-clamp? v-clamp?) broke, and now there is a gap between the two. The dealership doesnt cover it under powertrain warranty (my car has passed regular warranty) but worst of all they do not sell the clamp on its own.
I posted a link to a picture below, it isn't my turbo.
[URL] .....
I have an exhaust leak between the manifold and turbo ( in the flex part of the pipe) on my 2008 6.4 f250 would this create rough idle when at operating temp?
View 2 RepliesRecenly, i feel like i haven't been hitting boost, so i went to get an oil change last week. I did the oil change, and everything seemed ok, I thought it might have been a slight boost leak. This morning i check my drive way to see a little oil on it. So i check the dip stick and the oil level is already at a minimum. Do you think i have a blown turbo due to the oil drop and lack of boost. It hasn't been a 100 mi since the oil change either.
View 7 Replies2012 TDI ... OK so out of nowhere, my car is making loud turbo whoosh noise, while I love the way it sounds, it's not normal or intentional, so I don't like it lol. I have an AWE intake, and a gutted turbo resonance damper. Is been fine and same sound ever since those mods but now out of nowhere it is really loud with the whooshing of the turbo.
Small video of it... [URL] ....
Pictures of turbo area .....
Anything look wrong? I circled that one area but wouldn't know if that's normal or not....
Have to do a replacement and if so.. is removed the intake the only way to get at those stubs on the ex manifolds.
I thought it was the flex-pipe.. but after listening to the sound and getting an engine code for b1 s1 the leak has to be before the o2 senor for it to pop a code..
It sounds like a standard header leak from backing out bolts or a faulty gasket leak..
Finally got the car started after over a year of acquiring parts and labor. Cylinder 5&6 had misfires due to faulty injector harnesses. That issue has resolved. But I am getting a pretty distinct exhaust leak noise coming from the manifold area and i cannot figure out where it is coming from. We smoke tested it and still can't find the leak.
Things we checked:
-Head to manifold (all nuts tight)
-Manifold to turbo (all nuts tight)
-Turbo to downpipe (2 vbands both tight)
-Wastegate (2bolt manifold to adapter tight and vband adapter to wastgate tight)
-(2) O2 sensor plugs on the maniold (tight)
-All turbo hardware (tight)
-manifold and downpipe have no cracks
Picture:
Video:
[URL] .....
So I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
I have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
View 3 RepliesMy truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
View 3 RepliesMy wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
View 1 RepliesI suspect I have a turbo seal leak. My 2004 E350 6.0 smokes like crazy. The smoke is white and smells like you poured raw oil on a hot manifold. Definitely not diesel smoke. How can I tell if it's my turbo without tearing it out?
View 14 RepliesI have V6 Tdi -08 and my car has developed a tiny leak on the right hand side exhaust manifold. The purchase price for a new manifold is not to expensive but I now wonder difficult it is to replace considering how tight it is in the engine bay. If the engine has to come out in order to have it replaced or repaired.
View 4 RepliesI have a question regarding a leak i have in the manifold of my toyota camry 2002 2.4 cylinder. the engine check light is coming up and after a check on the mechanic there is a leak in the manifold where the catalytic converter is attached. when you put your hands near the pipe, you can feel air coming out. See the image attached.
The link is in the part mark as X. The catalytic converter is the one which is circled. [URL] ....
So I think I have possible manifold leak in my exhaust and its because when the engine is super cold, and I do have a straight pipe, but it sounds like a tractor... until it warms up after few minutes, it goes away.
My exhaust manifolds are rusted to crap and stuff is falling off, paint or whatever there was on them.
Now I've looked at bunch of videos on UT to get a better understanding since everyone says the nuts and studs are hard to remove or snap.
Now my question to anyone who's done this in their garage; I've seen bunch of videos where the stud snaps flush, then he takes a nut, puts it over the hole, holds it up with needle pliers and uses a MIG to start welding it... stud to nut... then puts a wrench and off it goes.
Now, I'm not a pro welder or anything so is it possible to by accident weld the stud, nut into the head and then never ever be able to undo or take either one out?? or is the head or whatever made from different material that won't get welded to the nut or the stud??
I currently own a 2009 F-150 XLT, ext. cab, 4X4, 4.6l, 6R80 trans. Surprise, Surprise I have just developed an exhaust leak at the manifold collector. After some careful investigation, I separated the pipe from the manifold and the sealing surface is totally rotted away. I cleaned it up as best as I could and slathered some muffler cement inside the joint to seal the leak. It is about 80% better but will get worse again I'm sure.
I visited my local Ford dealer and talked to a friend I have working there and he said Ford has known about quality issues with manifolds for years and he was surprised that the manifolds lasted 70k miles.
I am hoping to use the truck as is through the winter and in the spring I am going to install these headers:JBA Headers - Reviews on JBA Cat4ward Exhaust Headers - Stainless, Ceramic & Chrome Finishes
This intake:K&N 63 Series AirCharger High Flow Cold Air Intake Kits Best Price & Reviews
This tuner:Bully Dog Triple Dog GT Tuner (49-State Legal) - Bully Dog GT Tuner Reviews on Gas Programs for Dodge, Chevy, Ford & Nissan Trucks
I already installed a Flowmaster American thunder catback exhaust system about a year ago...
My 05 Gx has the infamous manifold exhaust leak on the driver side. I'm planing to change it myself I don't think it should be that tough.
View 2 RepliesMy Mazda 626 is in service for an engine warning light and my mechanic says that they will need to plug an exhaust leak in the rear manifold . And he's not sure that will solve the issue - a new cat converter may or may not be needed.
View 11 RepliesTruck has 107 thousand miles; had to take it in for an manifold exhaust leak. Mechanic said bolts are so rusted they break.
1) was there ever a ALERT from ford about these bolt's?
2) Thought i read ford had stainless bolts for this problem...
I've had F150's only since the mid 70's and this 04 has cost me more in repairs than ANY previous F150..
I own a e1999 Ford F350 7.3 4x4 with a Garrett GTP38R turbo. I have been having issues with very little power and pulled an CEL of P0221. I know it's for the APS and have been trying to trouble shoot it as a new APS has not fixed the problem. However, while working on that I just noticed an oil leak appear. I tracked it down and can visibly see it leaking out the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold in two places. It is seeping out the top. Is oil supposed to even be running through here like that?
I recently replaced my up pipes with the newer style bellowed ones. While I had the turbo off I replaced all the o-rings top and bottom and did the EBPV delete on the pedestal. I have been having very little power and cannot the truck over 5-10 MPH and stays at low RPM's so I originally thought it was the leaky up pipes. Those were fixed along with fuel pressure checks which came back good. I then pulled the P0221 code finally. While I had the turbo off I inspected it and it did spin freely and had no side to side play in it.
What was unusual to me was there was a small pooling of oil in the turbo when I took it off. I know the CCV goes through here so some oil is normal. Also, when I was diagnosing the up pipe leak I could see a small amount of oil spraying out the blown donut gasket along with the exhaust gases. I don't think that is normal.
Is there an internal seal in the turbo that can go bad causing oil to spill into my exhaust and possibly leak at the exhaust manifold? Or do I have an internal oil leak from somewhere else?
2004 SCrew, FX4, 5.4 ... I had the dreaded exhaust manifold leak on the passenger side. After reading the horror stories of this repair and living in the rust belt I decided against fixing it myself. I took it to a local repair shop to have done. Initially the mechanic could see that the front 2 studs were snapped off (before even trying to remove them).
After a full day of fighting the studs (engine loose & lifted up) everything is out but the front 2 studs. the top one has about 1/2" exposed, but it is frozen in place (penetrate on it overnight). The biggest problem is the bottom stud. it is broken off about 1/8" below the surface of the head. The guy doesnt have a small enough right angle drill to get between the frame & head to attempt to drill it out. I will gladly go buy a drill for him to do this, as it will likely save me money if it will work to drill out the stud.
Need to get the 2 studs out, particularly the bottom one, or what right angle drill may fit in there?
2000 excursion, 4X4, V10
A few days after the job was completed I noticed that the top stud on the driver's side closest to the firewall has signs of oil leaking from inside the hole. This is a hole that I had to drill and insert an 8mm Heli-coil. I was very careful on the depth of the hole I drilled. I tried removing the bolt and placing JB Weld high temperature epoxy into the hole and reinstalled the bolt. I waited over 24 hours for the epoxy to cure and then I checked for leaks. The leak re-appeared but has slowed down quite a bit. I have a USB endoscope that I will be using to inspect the inside of the hole to see if I can see where the leak is actually coming from. I am in no position to replace the head but I will do whatever it takes to get the truck back into service.
After 7 days in my garage, I finally removed/replaced all 20 manifold studs. I had to cut off all of the nuts to remove the manifolds. I was able to remove 17 out of 20 studs by using a 6 inch pipe wrench and a lot of coaxing. 3 of the studs were already snapped off inside the head. I drilled out two and was able to get them tapped for a Heli-coil. The third stud I broke a 1/8" cobalt drill bit inside and it took 4 days to get enough of the hole drilled out to get a Heli-coil inserted.