Golf/GTI VI :: Any Way To Extend Key Fob Range
Dec 20, 2010
Is there a way to do it? I've noticed if i'm coming directly at the side of the car, the range is alright, but if I'm coming towards it from the front/back, I have to be within 10 feet for it to work.
It's getting on my nerves and I'd like to be able to walk away from the car and lock it from a greater distance.
My MKV would do it from across the parking lot, the MKVI will barely do it if I'm standing right next to it. Whats the deal and how can I fix this?
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There are threads discussing problems with headlight washers not retracting (stuck open) but I haven't seen anything about the washers not extending. The passenger side works fine but the driver side does not extend. The pump, however, does seem to work because washer fluid flows from under the front of the car. Thus, the sprayer is spraying inside the bumper (probably not a good thing).
When I press the service button, the passenger side opens and extends but the driver side washer cover does not budge. What would be the best way to troubleshoot this problem? Is there a way to access the washer without taking off the bumper? Can the washer cover be pulled open (sounds like a bad idea)?
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This morning i realized that my rear shade did not completely extend. Is this an easy fix or do i have to go to the dealer?
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I have a 2011 F350 with the towing package. I got it used as it and it was a northern truck. My towing mirrors won't extend in or out. They fold and unfold just fine. When I press the button to telescope them I can hear the motor running so I know the fuse is good. I took the glass off the mirrors and scraped some salt out of the joints. I sprayed some lube on the joints as well but still no luck. I also tried forcing them but not too much to avoid breaking them.
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My car has the KESSY system, and over the past month I've been having the following issues:
1) Sometimes, when I try to unlock the car by touching the sensor area on the door handle, the car will not unlock. No matter how i make "finger contact" or how long I hold contact, there is no response. This happens frequently recently. (I still can unlock the door using the unlock button on the remote though.)
2) sometimes, when I get into the car, with the key remote in my pocket, the center display will read "Key not in range" when I attempt to push the engine start button.
Number two has only happened to me twice.
The first occasion, I just pressed the button again and the car started no problem. The second occasion that this happened, I pushed the button again, and the engine attempted to turn over, without firing, and displaying the check engine light. The car started on the third try and was fine since.
Considerations: It's been cold lately where I am (Average ambient temperatures 35F and below). I have not tried to replicate these symptoms with the other remote. (Considering that perhaps the remote's battery is low.)
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So I recently bought a 2004 R32 after owning like 5 other vw's (always wishing they were R's). Anyway, I am experiencing some humming noise... not quite a vibration, but the "humming" is strong enough that you can sort of feel it through the car. The "humming" happens at a range from about 30-60 mph and is only present when I'm turning left, or when there is more force on the passenger side of the car. When I'm going straight, it is very slight, but if I turn even slightly to my left it gets louder/stronger. When turning right and force is off the passenger side and on the driver side, the symptom is not present. It seems like it's coming from my front end as well, not rear.
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1543 miles on my 2010 Golf TDI. got out of the car and tried to lock it, and the lock didn't. When I got back in to start it, it kicked over then the display read "Key not in range" and the engine sputtered dead.? Had to walk home a few miles to get the spare key...my mistake for not carrying both sets...my previous car was an Acura, so I didn't really need to plan for electrical failure.
Anyhow, once I got my spare key and walked a few miles back, it worked just fine. Kicked right over, happy to see me. Good thing; I hate having a car with paper tags (still too new to have the actual plates) towed to the dealer.
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Yesterday morning my wife's JSW TDI wouldn't stay on after starting it. The screen kept displaying, "Key not in range". I swapped keys and every one of them did the same thing. It doesn't have keyless start, so it's not that. It would start then shut off like an immobilizer issue. I disconnected the battery terminal and reconnected it and that fixed it...for now. I did some research and everything I've found said the cluster needs replaced. I made a video of the display and the car shutting down.
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So my 2001 1.8t Golf is having some issues holding boost. I have a Gonzo stage 2 tune, CTS FMIC, Forge 008 Diverter, Silicone inlet and MagnaFlow Exhaust. I've also done the whole Evap, SAI delete and installed a catch can.
Starting in 2nd or 3rd at WOT the car spikes up to 18psi and then progressively loses boost throughout the rev range. Close to redline the boost drops to 5 psi or so. It seems to be dependent on the revs. In fifth gear the car holds 18 psi much longer as the revs don't increase as fast.
There are no CELs. I've done multiple leak tests starting at the air box and plugging the pcv/catch can system as well as at the compressor side of the turbo. None of the tests revealed a leak anywhere in the intake system. However, when I stuck my ear very close to the valve cover I could hear what sounded like a very small air leak coming from inside the valve cover. I took a look at the wastegate actuator and it seemed fine, no play in the rod, no loose bolts and to move it just requires enough force to compress the spring and it returned to its original position.
My thoughts are that it could be a fueling issue or turbo in the process of dying maybe.
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I have just this past week noticed that my rev needle is not smooth when coming down the range! It shudders and is annoying in that way that now i have seen it I cannot un see it!!
It is very smooth on the way up under acceleration.
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Yesterday I got the low fuel warning "Range 35 miles". I drove another 10 miles, then put 10.84 gallons in. That range warning seems really conservative, since the tank is 13 gallons. I wonder how many miles I *really* have after the car warns me. (I know it is affected by my speed, terrain, head winds, if AC is on, and so forth.) . Has to try driving til they ran out of gas after getting that low fuel warning?
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Lately my engine/coolant temp gauge has been screwing with me. It is either been almost at 190* or dead 90-100*
It seems to go up when in the lower RPM range (idle-2000) and goes down when in the higher range (4000-redline I suppose).
I stayed at or above 4000rpm on my way home from work for 3-4 minutes and it was almost at 90*...went to 5000 for 2 minutes, same thing. I shifted to 6th and it rushes to 190*.
So is my sensor bad or what?
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Ok so I'm having weird issues with my big turbo R. I thought I was having misfires in low rpm range. Car was stumbling and just not firing on all cylinders ( just an expression but that's what it felt like) realized it was because of the esp. Ok no the main issue. Vacuum was sitting around 14hg. When I come up to a light or stop sign or just put in neutral while moving it revs it self ad vacuum will go to almost 0hg until I come to a full stop.
The rev is not a big rev only like 100-150 rpm increase. Also the throttle response is not there if I go to rev match down shift. Here's the weird part. If I unplug the Maf it runs super smooth 19-20hg vacuum amazing throttle response clutch chatter almost goes away. There are no cel with or without the Maf plugged in I have logs for both...
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2011 F250 6.7 Lariot Fx4. My factory Trailor mirrors won't extend. When I push the button it just gives me two chimes. The power fold and other options work, just not the extend. Not sure but don't think it's a fuse since everything else works.
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My CEL is on for P0116 Engine Coolant temp circuit, range or performance problem. I replaced the CTS, thermostat, and did a complete coolant flush/replacement last November. Car worked well over the winter no issues. Last week when the CEL came on it gave me P0301 and P0440 as well. I did a reset and the lights stayed off for the week. Then P0116 came back. Is it possible that the CTS is bad again? I measured the resistance on the CTS and hot it is about 300 ohms and cold is 2.45k ohms.
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So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
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I've got a Gen III Prius with the remote A/C start option and am wondering if there is a way to increase the range of the key fob?
I have to park in the sun all day. My office is on the second floor of my building with a window overlooking the parking lot. I can see my car as I walk out. With summer approaching, I'd like to be able to point my fob at the car from my office, start the A/C, and have the car be somewhat cool by the time I walk down to it.
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I just lowered by B6 4-motion variant using H&R Sport springs (only springs, not coilovers). I was on some back roads tonight where there was no lighting besides moonlight and my HID's. I noticed that the range is severely reduced since I lowered it.
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When shifting to LOW range is it ok to do this with the engine off. Like turn on the car but not with the engine on, as if to listen and make sure it sounds ok.
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I've had my P3 for a week and have really been working on getting the max MPG using tried and true techniques and I've settled at 53mpg on average for the week.
During my commute, there is a long stretch of downhill - almost 3 miles - where I never engage the ICE but I notice my range ticks off with each mile.
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I recently bought a 2006 sonata with the 2.4 & automatic. It has 56k miles but is out of warranty (CDN). A lot of times at 50 mph it has a very noticeable surge where the car is not sure what gear it wants to be in (feels like torque converter locking & unlocking). At 60 mph plus it's fine & the tranny shifts smoothly. The fluid is nice & red with no burning smell.
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