Golf/GTI VI :: All Gauges Go Out And Error Lights Galore At Regular Freeway Speed Now Won't Start
Aug 12, 2012
Picked up a GTI Autobahn yesterday. Was pretty hyped that my sales rep was able to get me the last car in my configuration in all of California. It had to be driven 150 miles to my dealer though so there were more miles on the odometer than I would have liked but I got such a good deal that I let it be. Drove home and all was fine. Went out later that night and while driving home it all started.
Car was just cruising at regular freeway speeds (65 - 70) and suddenly all the gauges go out and error lights galore. Strange part is the car is still working otherwise at this point. We were able to exit and park it safely. Here's a video of exactly what we were seeing: [URL] ....
After parking and shutting off the car we try to start it back up. It turns over fine but a second later it kills itself - much like it would if you shut the car off manually. Warning lights galore again and eventually an error about the braking system shows on the display. Here's a video on this part: [URL] ....
Gas tank is full. Car was not being driven hard whatsoever. And even if it was it shouldn't do this right?
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Every once in awhile when I'm on the freeway, the hazard lights will flash and the doors will lock and unlock for about 3 seconds then stop.
The car is running normally other than this, except that the doors have stopped locking with the fob or the key itself. It is a 2001 2.0L L4 SOHC 8V.
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-At first, the car stereo wouldnt turn off when the car was turned off (the battery died many times :P) -I learned my lesson, and manually turned it off every time I got out.
-Then the radio started acting weird an randomly shut off, switched modes etc.
-Then while driving one day.. the "Theft" light turned on while driving and the radio shut off. The odometer read "error". It would go back to normal, but stay for longer periods of time when it happened.
-Then the car had problems starting, AND the day lights wouldn't turn off 50% of the time (I had too unhook the battery)
-Eventually the radio just stopped working and wouldn't turn on, and ALL the dash lights stayed on while driving, with none of the gauges working, while the odometer reads "error".
-After about a week of that, I decided to remove the radio. That actually worked alot. The MPH gauge and the RPM gauge now work, the front lights are back to normal. The car starts every time!
-However, the Gas gauge and Temp gauge still don't work, and the lights are all lit up on the dash and it still reads "ERROR"
I know it can be many things, but what steps can I take to find the "short" or "bad wire" or fix the problem. I know the hard part, is actually figuring out what is causing it.
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My 03 gti vr6 has issues... This only happens sometimes but if I am on the freeway even just at normal speed sometimes the motor loses power not electrical just the motor it will die then kinda sputter its way back to life. I may add that I have APR software installed.
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just got my R32 a year and 3 months ago and love it. I came across my first issue though a couple months ago, when i start my car on cold starts before it would of course go to the cold start mode at over 1,000 rpm's before going back down after 30 seconds and depending on the weather i'd let it warm up anywhere from 5-15 minutes.
Well a couple months ago my car wouldn't do its normal cold start routine, i'd turn it and it made its loud pitch as if it was going to do the cold start and it just immediately went down to regular idle skipping the warm up, it did this for a week before i got it checked out. I went to a shop by me and he said that it might be a thermostat sensor so i replaced it and nothing. So he then pulled my throttle body off cleaned it did the whole calibration thing or whatever its called that you have to do when unplugging them and it went back to normal!!! Well after a month (two weeks ago) its doing it again. Then he told me it might be that the throttle body has some condensation frozen and isn't allowing the throttle to open like it needs too.
I live in a suburb 20 minutes north of chicago and i don't drive the car if it snows, i keep it in my garage. I have a CAI installed on the car that i put on back in March of 09 and a flapper that i just permanently opened with an IV clamp. So i don't have any big modification on the car...yet
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I got an 03 vw gti. I was driving to work and car just shut off and hasn't start ever since. Check my fuses and relays there all good. I thought it would be my fuel pump so took the old one back to auto parts and got a new one. That didn't work. I also just replace my crank sensor cause my car won't crank at all, but it back fires after the first attempt to start it and i did some research and ppl had that same problem and said it was the crank sensor but that didn't work either.
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I installed the lights and they work fine but everytime I turn them on they throw a bulb out error message. I have the cold diagnosis turned off for the fogs and I still have it. Whats next?
Here is my coding. F78F8F2700041500470F0000000000000018110B5C00010000 0000000000
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1) Why is my neighbor's late model Tundra chirping and flashing the lights at regular (maybe 20 second) intervals?
2) Why can I hear it a house away but my neighbor (at home) cannot?
3) Can I stop it? If it something like hey idiot, you left it unlocked with the keys in the ignition, maybe I can.
4) If I resort to violent methods to stop it, will I be subject to criminal penalties. or would a jury of my peers find it justifiable truckicide?
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I am looking for some feedback I'm looking to convert all my interior lights from regular bulbs to LED's I know there's a DIY thread which I read. But I want to know whats the brightest led that i can use while still fitting in my 09 camry se. (2 reading lights, 1 dome light, 2 reading rear lights, 2 Door courtesy lights, 1 trunk light, 2 license plate lights) I want those lights to blind me when I turn them on.
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I have a 2010 f150 super crew, last night when leaving my baseball game I was shocked to find my running lights and my regular beam lights don't work. My high beams work fine but nothing else. I'm pretty sure the lights are an after market light, but I'm not positive since I purchased it used. I looked in manual to check for a fuse issue but I don't see anything regarding the headlights.
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Had the tail lights coded for at a local shop.. realized as I was leaving that the reverse lights are throwing an error. Can these be coded for? Now that the car recognizes the tails as LED, is the error coming from the incandescent? Should I replace the bulbs with low pulling LEDs without resistors? As for the fog, do I have to replace the bulb as well? No euro switch or wiring done. Basically, how do I get rid of the error.
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Happened first yesterday. The rpm and speed gauges get stuck at the 10 o'clock position. Seems all the lights come on. I can accelerate for a bit but the car just putts and then turns off. After that i try to start the car and nothing. If i take the ground of the battery for 10 min (ecu reset?) the car starts right up but any sooner and it wont start. I have APR stage 1 flash, cat back exhaust, drop in filter, forge hybrid valve, and Boost gauge.
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I have experienced ESP error when trying to start the car. When I turn the key, the engine does not crank, instead, the ESP error shows up on MFD. I have to wait for several minutes until the EPC light is on. Then I can start the car with the ESP and EPC light off.
Here is the video: [URL] ....
From the forums, I have already had my battery replaced and still the problem persists. I take my car to local garage which cannot troubleshoot the cause. They just say it might be the relay or even the ECU. So, wonder if there is any clue?
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I was trying to install my MDI in a parking lot where I could get some space. I thought the radio fuse was inside the panel by my drivers side door. I pulled those fuses out one by one, the I realized it was under the hood. I'm not done swapping pins, but I need to drive the car and it won't start. I didn't put the radio back in. My MFI says ESP error when I turn the car on. I have a micro can with me, but it's having a hard time finding the interface.
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The car developed a vibration at freeway speed (65-80+) and the dealer kept saying it was tire balance, alignment, etc. After replacing tires, having them road force balance the tires and do an alignment, car still had the vibration. Contacted Lexus and the service manager drove with me and immediately felt the vibration. they double checked the balance, alignment, etc. and decided it was shocks. Car has 70,000 miles. Lexus agreed to pay for 2 of the struts. Picked up the car and it is like new. Smooth as silk. the old shocks did not have signs of being worn out, leaking or being bad. I was a bit hesitant but the Service Manager said if it didn't fix the problem, they would put the old ones back on and I wouldn't pay for anything.
I have my car serviced only at the dealer and they have stood behind the car. Lexus also. I had the control arm problem and Lexus stepped up and paid for that repair.
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I have a 96 honda civic that I can't seem to figure out why its overheating. I've changed the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and cleaned the system a number of times. It only seems to overheat when I'm on the free way and up to speed. When I get to my destination I see that the water overflow is full of water like to the top of the filler, so the water is being ejected out of the system. It also seems to have a lot of pressure in the system.
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Approx. 8 mths ago, my Honda which I have owned since new, started this strange behavior of suddenly 'shuddering' while at a higher speed on the freeway. This shudder would take some time to get started, maybe 10-15 min. driving and I would feel the shudder first in my foot against the gas pedal, then it would be more pronounced seemingly on the left front wheel. If I took the foot off, it initially would be relieved, but if I continued to drive, it would eventually get worse to the point I needed to pull over. I took it into our trusted mechanic, and he couldn't reproduce the issue. He suggested and then did a wheel rotation/balance and the problem seemed to go away.Recently it has come back and my husband who is quite knowledgeable mechanically did some inspections, and for lack of anything else, he asked our mechanic to replace the left front drive shaft. Well, it didn't fix the problem. We are wondering what else could it be?
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After one hour of freeway speed (60-80) the car slows down to a stop and red !triangle! light comes on. After coasting to the shoulder and waiting 10 minutes, car restarts. This has happened 3 times in the last two months (very frightening, but luckily it was light traffic). Dealer says 'no codes' and that there is nothing to fix!!!! What now? I can't drive a car that could lose power at any moment. Big safety issue....
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I have a 2004 chevy malibu LT V6. Got it in 2009 from a dealership near where I live. During the road test I did not notice the vibration, may be because I did not drive it on a freeway. Point to be noted that it came with 2 brand new front tires. I called the dealership and they did balanced the wheels for free of charge. But the problem did not go away. This time I took my car to pepboys for wheel balancing. It is better now but I still feel the vibration on the wheel @ the speed of 60 or over. I have done wheel balancing and replaced back tires. Problem still remains. I own some other cars and they don't have this issue.
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Last month, I started my gti up and a "Start System Faulty" code appeared. The car started normal and drove perfectly fine.
I immediately took it in to the dealership and they could not diagnose the problem or turn off the damn warning! They released my car and said to come back in a few weeks.
So, two days later, the warning disappeared and I thought it was just an electrical glitch.
Fast-forward to last week, the warning light came back on and took it in again. I suggested that they take a look at the ignition switch and sure enough, they fixed it for me over the weekend by installing a new ignition switch and the problem is gone.
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My car has ~102,000 miles, though I replaced the motor at 95,000.
Yesterday, I experienced these symptoms: My car just stalled in the parking lot going from R to D. Took me several tries to even get it to crank, double checking transmission in park, foot on brake, etc.
Then I had to crank on it a bunch of times to get it to light.
The BT-1 I have on me says I have a P0321 medium generic code. Googling that seems like it's related to a crank position sensor.
Runs OK for now, but I'd like to locate that sensor (is it G28?) to make sure the wires look OK. Happened again the next time I ran it, so taking it off the road for now as unreliable.
Is this the G28 crankshaft sensor location? I figure it's the plug hiding behind the angle bracket to the right of the oil filter in this photo.
I'm trying to figure out if this is within my abilities, or if I should farm it out. As I think about it, I'm guessing the sensor and related harness are not "new" with my motor, they transferred over from the old one.
Still looking for input if I have the right location for the sensor and any input on DIY.
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