Golf/GTI VI :: After Replacement Of Tires Still Pulling To Right?
Apr 23, 2010
I have gone back and forth to different dealers and have gotten many different responses. The first response I got was it was pulling to the right because of the crowning of the road. Then they told me I needed two new tires. After getting them replaced the car is still pulling to the right. I went to a different dealership thinking they would be able to get it straightened out. Before I took it over there I called VWoA and they said they would cover the cost of the alignment. After the car was checked by this new dealership they came to the conclusion that it was torque steer. I advised them that it veers to the right even if the car is in neutral and rolling in the middle lane of the highway.
I may be contacting a lawyer for a lemon law claim. VWoA says I do not have a claim because a problem was never found, though I do have paperwork stating that the issue was verified by a technician at a VW dealership. I also went and had it put on an alignment machine at Sears and I have the papers that show the car is not aligned properly. But they continue to say that there is nothing wrong with the car.
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Driving a 2003 GTI
My girlfriends dad and I just recently replaced my pads,rotors, and bled the brakes. He is a journeyman mechanic however he does not see a lot of cars, he mostly works on trains.
Short version is after this replacement I am able to press the peddle to the floor and not lockup or engage the ABS. Before with the old worn brakes this would be no problem to do. We tried bleeding a little more off the brakes to see if there was some air. no bubbles came out. he insists there's lots of brake power. I just find it odd that i can press the pedal to the floor board and not lock up the tires, or feel like i have any real emergency stopping power.
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Noticed today in the snow, I was pulling out of the driveway in 2H and the rear tires broke loose, weird sound coming from the front end like the truck was trying to engage the 4 wheel drive but it wouldn't go in. Traction control? Threw it in 4H and the sound went away????
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My transfer case engages the front drive shaft spins but even when I manually lock my hubs neither of my tires will pull! I was thinking either the hubs are shot but I was told it could be the 4wd locking solenoid??
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I drive a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 72,000 miles on it. My rear tires are worn. Do I put the replacement tires on the rear or on the front (and rotate the front tires to the back?) I've asked several mechanics and got several different answers. Isn't there a definite answer to this question?
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Three weeks ago I was driving around Roscoe Blvd down at Panorama City on a slow Saturday afternoon.There was a construction and people were driving slow and it was a hot day. I was running maybe 25 or less mph till I realized that the manhole steel cover, did not have it's steel flat surrounding on it and I think it was 2 inches deep. I tried swerving to the right a bit and ended slicing my Continental tires on the side then it was instant flat. Got the tires at Discount tires but did not have the software for the 2008 R32 to align it. Brought it to Pep Boys but when they aligned it, they said they were -3 or -2 from the right front side but managed to align it to R32 default setup on the front left.
The car is pulling a bit to the right but not that much. I've been running 65 mph on the freeway and letting go of the steering and it doesn't even pull to the right compare to running the neighborhood streets.
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I recently changed out my clutch. I dropped the subframe to get the transmission to clear. Everything went back together without too many issues but during the road test it pulled to the right under acceleration and when I let off the gas it pulls back to the left. I had it aligned, no luck. I took it to a local VW dealer here and they could not find the problem. I got the name of a shop that works on imports and after a test drive they said when we put the subframe back on we missed getting the subframe on a couple of pins. His suggestion was to loosen the subframe bolts and wiggle it around until it hit those pins. We did that but did not seen any pins and after tightening the bolts up again it still pulls.
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I have an APR stage 1+, HPPF, Carbonio intake. First thing EVERY morning my car will give a noticeable hesitation when pulling out of my driveway. After this 1 time event, the car rides perfectly. It happened every day. I was told this is gas pooling or some such issue.
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I'm going to need to install a Nokia Bluetooth car kit on my MkVI in the summer at latest and was wondering how to get the radio and AC controls out to do it.
Radio naturally needs to come out to connect the kit to it (or its power cables anyway), but I was thinking of installing the kit's control unit under the AC controls, to the side of the center console on the inside of it.
I guess the control unit's wire would then go into the dash from between the AC control panel and the center console somewhere. That was my plan anyway.
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After doing reading I think my issue might be suspension related. Whenever I engage the clutch at a normal rate I get a rubbing/clunking noise coming from the driver side. I can feel it thru the gas pedal and it sounds like a card in a bicycles spokes. If I engage the clutch extremely lightly I don't get the noise at all. This only happened AFTER I had my H&R Sport Springs installed. Could it be a strut mount? Engine Mount? The car only has 4500 miles on it. I'm extremely confused.
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Quick question, on the R32 manual shifter, is there a way to get the shifter to reverse by pulling the stick back instead of pushing forward for an up shift?
I have an E46 M3 w/ SMG which shifts this way and I am strongly considering an R32. It would be nice to reverse the shift pattern to stick w/ what I am used to.
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I just had an alignment done and the steering wheel is turned counter clockwise a little. I know very little about alignment. I know the terminology and what it means and i heard the the rear camber and toe isn't adjustable on mk4s. I did lower my car,only about one inch though.
Here is the sheet that came with the alignment:
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2K 1.8T Golf. Lowered on Koni struts and neuspeed street (red) springs last year. Rear axel bushing done soon after. Replaced front and rear strut mounts and bearings at the time of struts and springs. Rack died on me in the fall so I had it replaced along with newer control arms and upgraded bushings. Aligned right after the rack was installed and ran like an arrow until last weekend. Now it pull to right, more as I speed up. I also noticed that when I turn left, the steering is much stiffer then steering left (full turns and mild turns).
PS fluid is still full. My ball joints are about 3 years old so I'm leaning towards that direction. Especially after this past winter and the never ending pot holes in Detroit. The shop used moogs and were regularly greased as they had zerk fittings. I think I hear some clunking upfront but I'm unclear as my old GHL Muffler weld finally gave out and is having by a hockey lace and it is rattling every time I accelerate or hit a bump. I'm going to jack it up this weekend to do some exhaust work so I'll give it a good once over and shake down what I can.
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I just had the tie rods replaced and a front end alignment on my VW Golf. The tires that were on the front were moved to the back because of some wear on the inside edge. The tires currently on the front look brand new, but the car pulls to the right more than it did before I had any of the work done. The place where I got the work done told me I would need to replace the two tires with wear but they are still in mostly good condition. They are telling me now the pulling is because the tires on the rear have wear. Can wear on rear tires really cause my car to pull so significantly to the right? The tires are only two years old. I do not want to replace them yet. The car front wheel drive.
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I had to raise the car a bit to clear the apr turbo outlet pipe. Raised a little too much and was hearing a clunking sound pulling into my driveway or speedbumps, etc. Contacted HR and they said the coilovers have an operating range and to lower them a bit. So.. i have about 3/8" of thread left on both fronts and my (not so scientific measuring method) fender/ground is 24" vs 26.25 stock as measured on a stock gti on my dealer lot. I still have a ton of thread to drop the car (about 1.5") as seen in the picture below. The issue i have is what the spring looks like. It rides fine in my day to day commute so its not noticeable but looking at it, it looks collapsed??
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When pulling away casually in 1st from a stop, I hear a slight chatter noise. Had this since before the tune (stage 1). Almost like the sound a diesel makes at idle but only lasts a second or two. To the best of my knowledge it is an OEM clutch. Had 9k miles when I bought it, now has 25k.
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So I was pulling out of the parking lot at work in first gear going about 10mph when I heard a loud clang and lost power to the wheels, I just had the car towed home and its dark out so i haven't gotten a chance to really take a good look.
My question is, how did this happen? the car is lowered on coils. I also Installed a B&M short shiftier about 3 weeks ago, i doubt it but could that have anything to do with this?
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I just bought a used 2009 VW GTI which is a lovely car as you can see from this picture:[URl]. As you can also see from that picture I live in one of the many snowy states. The roads now resemble the lunar surface except with deeper craters and potholes. When I bought the car, I was stupid enough to be talked into a $500 5 year warranty. Or was I? I've driven the car for almost a month and have replaced 2 tires due to pothole damage. At this rate, I'm way ahead on the warranty. The car has 18" low profile tires which seem sensitive to being banged into the rim of potholes. Is there something about my driving that's causing this issue? I don't really speed and the last blowout happened at around 30mph. Is this something I just have to live with? Can I replace the tires w/ normal tires?
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Had a friend at vw change my haldex fluid and the next day I'm driving my tires locked then let go and skidded a bit now my car is making a very weird noise from the rear and where the haldex is located I'm getting a bit of leaking.
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I destroyed my front tires about 3 months ago, I thought the tracking was out because the inside of the tires were all chewed up, so I bought 2 new ones and had the tracking done. Well today I took the .:R to the Tire Barn for a rotation and they informed me that there's wear on the inside again.
IWould it prevent any more damage to the tires if I replaced the front control arm bushings and had a new alignment done? Ideally I would like to replace the control arms but I can't afford that right now as I'm about to buy a house.
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I have a 2004 VW R32 lowered and all 4 of the tires wear down on the inside really fast. Camber kit? Which kit should I get?
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