Golf/GTI VI :: After Hitting A Big Pothole Car Started To Shake Noticeably Above 55 Mph
May 30, 2010
I have the stock 16-inch Bioline wheels on my '10 JSW TDI. After hitting a big pothole on the Pennsylvania turnpike (stupid of me, I know), the car started to shake noticeably above 55 m.p.h. Tire pressure was normal. When I replaced the wheel (right front) with the spare, the shaking went away.
Did I damage the wheel? Normally, I would attribute shaking to the alignment being off, but---again---the car doesn't shake when the spare is on. I would have thought it would take more to damage a 16-inch alloy wheel, but what do I know?
I'm trying to decide whether I should pay to have the alignment checked or start scouring the classifieds for a replacement wheel already.
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While bucking a 30+ headwind on the highway @ 70mph, hit a pothole, got a check engine light and engine died. Traffic heavy and dangerous so I stayed on electric power longer than I should have to get off onto a service road. Determined my 12 volt battery terminals were very loose from vibration, I'm assuming. But now the car will not stay running when started. SOC shows 2.5%, main battery 0 volts.
Towed home, recharged main battery to 7.3vdc per module, yet car still shows same SOC and will not stay running. Currently, disconnected 12 volt battery overnight to see if things look better after system sits disconnected for several hours.
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It's my first time experiencing a flat tire after hitting a pothole. I was on the Long Island Expressway in Queens, NY on Saturday evening after watching The Amazing Spiderman 2. It was about 12:15 AM, and there were still a lot of cars on the road. (and they were fast!!!) I wasn't aware and hit a pothole, and I immediately heard a loud "BANG" noise from the left wheel. I switched on the tire pressure indicator on the dashboard right afterward, and the air pressure started decreasing. Luckily, I was able to find an exit early and pulled over on local road to check the car. I swapped out the flat tire with the spare and went home safely with my girlfriend.
* I was surprised that the Bridgestone Turanza was able to hold up with 0 air pressure, without letting the rim rolling and touching on the ground.
* Rim is fine - no bent, no scratch
* Took the wheel to a tire shop and discovered that there must be some sharp edges in the pothole, which teared the side of the tire for about 2 inches (right underneath the tip of the rim). Total replacement with installation - $290. Shop ordered a brand new tire (same model) and I will return on Monday to get the tire fixed.
1) How do I check whether the suspension is okay?
2) The tire pressure indicator on the gauge shows nothing now - all 4 wheels. I'm not sure what's going on. I still have the spare wheel on, so I'm not sure whether this is causing the issue.
3) Where is the tire pressure sensor located? When I return to the tire shop on Monday, will the tire guy know how to swap out the bad tire with the new one without messing up with the tire pressure sensor in there?
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I hit a pothole on I 55 going about 70 mph and the ABS/tire pressure lights went on. My gut feeling is that this is not serious, as the car is 14 years old (131,000 miles) and runs well. Figure it's just a sensor or connection issue or something like that. Is there a way that I can test to see if my ABS has stopped working without going to a mechanic? The tire pressure light comes on now and then at high speeds and usually means nothing.
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I've had this problem for years but is now getting worse. It used to only happen when it was really cold out, subzero, but is now happening as we now approach 50 degrees out. If I hit a pothole or pop over a small curb, I get a clunk in the rear. I replaced the shocks about 3 months ago which seemed to work briefly but the problem is back and is worse than ever.
I have the original springs and it looks like the recall was done by the previous owner (rubber bumber stops installed).
230k miles. Do I need new springs?
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I drive a 2011 f-150 5.0. I hit a crater-sized pothole out on a dirt road and the check battery light came on. The truck hesitates slightly when i put on the gas. I already check the voltage on the battery 13v off 15 on and I took off the Postive cable and the truck still ran. What could be causing the issue.
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I have a '98 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4Door, 4WD, 5-Speed Manual Trans, 4.0L Inline 6 cyl. mileage: 220,000+At highway speed if I hit a bump the car will start to shake like to fall apart. The only thing that stops the shaking is to ease of on the gas and it slowly subsides. What is causing this? Suspension? Transmission? Steering? Incidentally, the steering is not specifically affected, other than the fact that the whole car is shaking like a jack-hammer.
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My 02 F150 4x4 at times gets a shake through the steering when hitting road cracks, pothole fills, etc. Would installing a steering damper system work or am I missing something to check in the front end. Ball joints are good, all steering linkage good, new shocks all around, control arm bushings look good and don't seem to shift when prying with a bar. Also changed all sway bar bushings and links. Maybe the control arms just have to be changed with 103,000 miles on it even if they appear OK? What about using an aftermarket steering damper on a stock F150? My long gone 82 GMC 4x4 had one from factory but it was also a solid axle setup.
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I just had vehicle inspected and replaced the wheel hub assemblies on the front Left and Right wheels in order to pass. Now while driving strong shaking occurs occasionally when over 60+ mph or at any time after a hit a bump in the road. have to slow down below 30 for it to stop.
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Searched and posted to the Facebook group. Figured I'd cover all bases by posting here too. The noise my cooling fan makes is now noticeably louder than it was in the past. Mentioned to my shop and they said it has two stages, and that perhaps the first stage is no longer functioning, so only the second stage is running.
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So I hit a pothole driving on the freeway a few weeks back and I have a small sidewall bubble developing on the right rear tire. I am asking around and apparently none of the shops carry tire shavers anymore.
Since our car is AWD my understanding is that depending on how much the difference is, they can either replace 1, or 2 (same axle) or have to replace all 4 tires.
Also is there any chance in hell since these are OEM tires that came with the car that VW would be of any assistance with the replacement of the tire?
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My wife was driving this morning and she said that the car engine started to hesitate and shake a lot, engine light came on, started to bling. Called road assistance and they did a great work towing the car in less than half hour. Also noticed a rotten egg smell from the exhaust or engine.
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I have been having some electrical problems lately that seem to be getting worse. For the past few months sometimes when i hit a bump or pothole my radio would shut off and then turn back on. Well I never got around to looking at it cause i would forget about it until it did it again. so just a couple of days ago im coming into my driveway, hit the bump, and my car shuts off. Not like a stall, just no electricity. I was thinking i need a new battery because my lights flicker and dim when i hit my window button, or when I am just sitting at a light, sometimes my dash lights will flicker. But now I am thinking maybe I have a bad ground or something.
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I have ES 350 with 118000 miles. And for the last 6 months I've noticed my car become louder and louder. And now it's beginning to shake and vibrate a little. The Check engine light and check VSC light came on then it went off. I can also tell it doesn't have the same pick up when I hit the gas. So is it time to for new plugs and coils?
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My 2010 Xle camry, only has 10.030 miles, today engine light turn on and SRC too, when i started engine shake few, then 2 light turn on together, 2 months ago happens some similar but i thought Was battery. And I changed , immediately two light turn off.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 45,000 miles, and my Camry engine is starting to shake when I put it in drive. My "Check Engine" light starts to flash. I haven't had any other problems, so I was surprised when this started to happen.
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I have a 2003 3.5 Santa Fe. Last week while my wife was on the way to work, and still in the neighborhood, she said the car started to shake and the CEL came on.
I checked and got these two codes:
Pending Fault Log
------------------
P1707: Unknown code
P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
I replaced the spark plugs in cylinders 2, 4, and 6. Not 1, 3, 5 yet since those are harder to get to.
I drove the car about 10 miles and it seemed to operate fine. The CEL stayed off. However, my scanner still says Pending P1707. The scanner showed no errors when I first started up the car, but I decided to do it again about 5 miles in that is when it showed the error.
I've done some searching but the responses for this code are inconsistent. What this error is about?
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I have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES, with about 120,000 miles. On February 14th, Valentine's Day, my car broke down and has not functioned since then. Here's what happened, I was driving the car when it started to shake. It continued to shake for about 5 minutes, then it stalled. I was able to start he car again and it began shaking worse than before. Then it stalled again and it has not run since then.
The mechanic I've been working with has tried a new CAM sensor, replaced the computer and checked some of the electrical wiring. But nothing has worked. It's been almost 4 months and I am eager to get my car functioning properly right again.
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I have a 2000 Grand AM cylin. Recently I was driving when my car started to shake violently. I drove it to the side of the road to a parking lot then it died. I started it up again and is ran but shacking a lot again. Once I got home, 3 blocks away the car died again. I tried to start it again but it would only turn but not start the engine. I have checked the gas pump, motor mounts, oil and anti freez for oil. I did check the timing chain but I don't know much on how it should be.
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When started very high idle after hitting gas pedal sometimes it will lower idle sometimes not,,then holding pressure on gas pedal it has very bad surging ... Any guesses what might be and possible cost fix?? I am no mechanic,will have to take it somewhere...90,000 miles on it..
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I have a ford f250 with a 5.4l 2v engine and lately it started to shake when it idles. i have changed all the ignition coils and spark plugs, the injector are fine, but i cant seem to pinpoint the problem. the weird thing is that there are no codes. the fuel trim on bank 1 is around -8 and bank 2 is at almost positive 20 and higher.
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