Let's say I accelerate hard and hit some potholes and/or bumps in the road. this causes wheel spin/loss of traction. could anything be damaged if i keep accelerating past all the bumps while the traction control keeps trying to stop the wheels from spinning freely? I am talking about throttle to the floor in 2nd gear over bumps/small potholes
View 24 RepliesI have a 2008 vw r32 recently installed a HPA turbo setup, now I'm having a problem the first time this happened it was 90 degrees out I drove 40 min let it sit in direct sunlight for over a hour then drove another 30 min and hit a bunch of hard bumps traction control light and EPC light comes on and lose all power, Shut off car and restart it and was fine for about a week drove it in the am drove fine let it sit all day out in direct sunlight about 88 degrees out started it up idle was staying at 1000 and went to take off and instantly traction control light and EPC light on, now I need any input I can get I have no clue what's going on I think I knocked something loose in the ecu after they opened it up and put there chip in it, but I have no clue
View 6 RepliesI noticed over the last couple days what feels like loss of traction. When the turbo kicks in around 38-4k I get this rumble that i think is wheel spin. Am i wrong here? is that what that is or clutch slip?
Havent noticed any traction light. Is this haladex? I don't know where to start here.
I've got and love my 2015 GTI w/PP 6MT. Under heavy throttle, as the car loses grip, I experience a rather violent knocking, it's really violent and feels as if it's damaging the car. I'm sure it's one or more of the assists kicking in, but which one; ASC, ESC, XDS+, or is it the VAQ? I'm concerned I'm damaging my car. which systems are the culprit, how do I defeat them, and is this damaging my car?
View 14 RepliesWill overfilling transmission fluid cause hard shifts? I used ~4.3 quarts to refill. How much should I drain out? My check engine light came on.
Basically, I am having hard shifts from 2-3 and 3-4 in tip mode and auto. more tip mode tho.
-I did a complete solenoid change b/c of cold start problem with n92 solenoid.
Fixed the cold start shifting out of first.
-Did a trans fluid change with Mercon V ATF Fluid works fine.
-Just changed oil on 4th of July last week.
Yesterday my check engine light came on. It's been about 500 miles since the solenoid change/trans fluid change, and 100 miles since the oil change.
Now my Mk4 is having this obnoxious shifting. I am thinking I possibly added too much trans fluid into my system as I do not have the VAGcom tool.
I drained out (bone dry drain till no more dripping from check/drain plug), roughly 4 quarts. I added 4.3 give or take 0.1 quarts back into the car.
Now I'm worried because everywhere I'm reading says anywhere from as little as 2.1 quarts to 3.5 quarts.
Should I drain out 0.5 quarts (because I know theres over 4 in there now) to make it 3.5 quarts?
Or should I just redrain the whole thing and start by measure one quart at a time?
A clunk sound coming from the front end. Drivers side and Passenger side. Not really a metal on metal sound. The problem started after coilover install. The sound occurs while braking and accelerating over bumps. So what I've replaced:
-Strut Mounts and Bearings
-Lower control arm bushings (R32 bushings)
-Drivers Side CV axle
What I've checked:
-Tie rod ends have no play
-Ball joints have no play.
-I have no sway bar, so not the sway bar bushings.
-Its not the axle hitting the frame.
Could possibly be the dog bone mount but when I installed the 1' motor mounts I saw no issue but could possibly be the bushing. feel the clunk in my foot as well.
MK4 2000 Jetta 2.0 5speed With Raceland Ultimo Coilovers (Junk)
I have 46k on stock suspension and lately I have been hearing a clunking sound when hitting bumps. It sounds like it is coming from the strut mounts and the ride has been harsh compared to when the car was newer. There isn't any bounciness and I thing the shocks/struts are fine. I push down on the body and no bounciness when I let up. Could my strut mounts be shot already?
View 6 RepliesI've recently started to have issues where when I get up over 55/60 mph the traction control will engage and limit the acceleration of my 2009 prius. I took the car into my local Toyota dealership and they claim it is because of the size tire I have.
I recently purchased a set of Hankook Optimo H727 replacement tires. After having done my research (mostly on these forums) I decided to go with the P195/60R15 tire size. Now I have several reasons to believe that the dealership has misdiagnosed the issue:
1. There are loads of people on this site who have installed 195 size tires (and larger) without issue as far as I can tell.
2. The issue did not begin immediately after installing the new tires, but rather a couple months later.
3. My brother installed the same exact tires on his 2005 Prius and does a lot more freeway driving than I do and has not had an issue.
4. My understanding from reading here is that in some other countries Priuses come with 195 size tires stock.
Have an SE DSG w/ PP and 3300 miles.. When under hard acceleration and the traction control light blinks on I sometimes hear a loud BANG from the front - the car pulls great and goes like hell - just wondering is this the VAQ at work - sounds like the car slamming into gear.. Other than that noise the car is a total blast to drive even though it is now too cold to really play with it..
View 4 RepliesHave some issues with my power steering pump. When I purchased the car i discovered it had brown fluid in it. Replaced it with green type and tough the pump had taken no damages from it. Did a track day with slicks (Toyo R888) and got problems with fluid boiling and loss off power in hard cornering.
My first thought was that the pump was damages by the wrong fluid. Before I got around replacing it the pump started making more and more whining sounds while driving on normal road with road tires.
Therefor I replaced the pump but the sound still continues. I changes the belt tensioner as well since the bearing could cause some issues like this as well. But the pump still struggle on normal road usage.
Could the steering rack be damaged with some internal leakage from the wrong fluid on it when purchased? I run DLI engine mounts, I can't see how but would that affect the sound from the pump?
Could there be any bearing on the belt (water pump/ac/alternator?) causing this issue? When running idle the belt runs fine with out any typical shot bearing sound.
Having problems where sometimes the car won't go into gear, other times it's fine? The problem started after some hard acceleration in 3rd, there was what felt like a momentary loss in power. I dipped the clutch as I thought a boost pipe had popped off, all was fine (still seeing boost when revved). After this it got progressively harder to get gears, finally resulting in not being able to get into gear at all.
I found I could get it into 1st with the engine off and could go up gears normally, but couldn't change down without stopping and turning the engine off. The clutch is working fine, the biting point is normal. The problem seams to come and go randomly, it will work fine for a while and then start playing up again. When working the gearbox feels normal, there is no grinding or wining noises. I can move between gears normally and do clutch less gear changes.
There is now a vibration which can be felt at 1000rpm when stationary. It feels like it coming from the engine/gearbox and seems like something is out of balance as it shakes the whole car. The car is on 91k, supercharged running 470hp & 370lb/ft (at flywheel) and is fitted with a Spec stage 3+ clutch and solid flywheel.
My 2001 L.L.Bean Edition H6-3.0 is losing power & MPG on the fwy. Sometimes it will feel like something is holding it back or dragging. I've checked the brake calipers and they're not sticking, changed the air filter, oil & filter, transmission fluid, and still cannot find the problem. I've overfilled the gas tank and read this can damage the charcoal canister. Will a saturated charcoal canister cause a drop in power and MPG? What should I check out next?
View 10 RepliesI have noticed a smell like heating when doing a suddenly hard acceleration (up to 6000 RPM) on my R32 2008, but when driving normally there is nothing.
View 10 RepliesI'm sure this has been brought up before. Whats the rattle you hear when accelerating hard when the transmission shifts? Exhaust note, exhaust hardware, dsg transmission, engine sound?
View 8 RepliesAbout 2 months ago, I needed to test my engine cooling fan motor. Was using two lead test wires with alligator clips and stupidly connected the battery ends first and then the wind blew the other connection ends together creating a spark. That may or may not have anything to do with what has happened since then. About 3 days after that, I started to notice that my lights were dimming and ac fan motor was slowing when the engine was under load as in 1st or 2nd gear or going uphill.
After about a week, the ALT/BAT light came on and I replaced my alternator. The problem with that was that getting the belt back on the new ALT nearly killed me and I got several pretty bad injuries and ended up having to get it done. The old alternator tested bad so I figured my problem was solved. But ever since then, I am still getting the same problem - a voltage drop or loss of electrical power causing the lights to dim and the fan to slow - except this time is doesn't happen under load - it happens while driving and just after I have come to a stop at a light or stop sign. I have had the battery and alternator tested several times and they always show up as being fine.
I checked all the cables and connections and changed the positive battery cable bolt. I get no codes thrown. I cant just take the alternator out and change it because of what I went through with the last one - not to mention it tests OK so I can't use the warranty as long as that is the case anyway. So I am left with this troubling, annoying problem and don't know what the cause or solution is. I am guessing the list of options has to have the alternator, battery, connections, belt (though I have no sounds or evidence there is a problem with the belt - I suppose if the tensioner was damaged with the belt fiasco that it might cause such a problem). What to do? It is the biggest problem at night because my headlights are affected.
2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2
I recently had the high and low pressure tubes on my power steering fail causing a total loss of fluid. After about a week of living with manual steering, I brought it in and had the tubing replaced. Everything worked fine, though the steering felt a bit sloppy to me. Today, on my way home from a 100 mile trip, the car decided that turning left just wasn't something it wanted to do.
So to turn left, I would have to back up and turn the wheels to the right. Not exactly an efficient way to drive in traffic. Do I try to get the car back into my mechanics place to see if he can fix it for a reasonable amount, or should just bite the bullet and look for a newer car? BTW when I had brought the car in for the tubing replacement, they showed me where the bracket holding the strut on the left had begun to crack, probably from driving without the power steering. 1998 Malibu LS ....
Yesterday I was driving the prius when I came to stop for a red light there was a man hole cover that was sunken into the ground fairly deep and when the prius went over it while I was braking I lost braking power for maybe .5 of a second and the traction control light kicked on. This has happened a few times but this time was the worst, is this normal for an 06 prius or should I get it checked out? This NEVER happened in florida we just moved to chattanooga (roads are terrible) the car is also not enjoyable to drive here there are too many tight corners/bumpy roads I'm really thinking about selling it for a larger car that can handle the roads here better. My gti also never does this going over the same bumps/manhole covers.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2009 Prius with about 33,000 miles. Owned it about 6 months. It has the original Goodyear tires. I notice that when I do a quick turn, or go over a bump or something like that, I will have a quick moment of "squeal", which I imagine means a little loss of traction.
Is this an indication that my tires are ready for replacement? They still have a reasonable amount of tread. Or is this simply characteristic of this vehicle? Or might it indicate some other problem?
Just letting Gen III drivers know that using an OBDII splitter and two gauges can sometimes cause a loss of regen braking and traction assist accompanied by various yellow lights on the dash. It can be restored by switching the vehicle off, unplug the OBDII splitter and restarting the car. This has happened to me on three seperate occasions.
View 8 RepliesI've lost traction going around corners. My daily route takes me down a dirt/gravel road that has a couple of tight curves. It seems that last week my 6 month old, just rotated BFG All Terrain's could run these curves with no problem. Now I'm drifting like the Duke boys running from the law. Even making a right turn on dry pavement gets some squak from the tires.
Truck is a 2002 F150 fx4 with 3.50 LS rear diff with about 185000 miles.
So I have two theories. First is the shocks. Standard Rancho that came with the truck. I don't think they've ever been replaced. My bigger concern is the rear diff. I've had a shudder when I take off at corners that indicates it needs a fluid change or friction mod. added. I did the latter a couple of weeks ago. Didn't really work.
I'm wondering, can the clutch pack in the rear diff go out or go bad? If so, what happens? Does it default to an open diff or spool the axles? Or will it just grenade the whole rear end? The loss of traction is my symptom right now. Possibly some wheel hop on braking today, but I couldn't tell if that was just the road.
I've been noticing that when I need to make a hard stop, I will feel a sudden engine vibration for about 1 second as soon as it comes to a complete stop. The same feeling you might get when the RPM drops too low. It only does it for like 1 second though. I am not sure if it is the gears shifting down that is causing this. I won't feel it if I am making a gradual slow stop. Only fast sudden stops.
View 27 Replies