Golf/GTI VI :: AC Light Came On But The Air Did Not Get Colder
Oct 1, 2013
So I took a road trip down to St. Louis only to find out my a/c did not work. I had not used it for probably like two months. The a/c light came on but the air did not get one bit colder. Purchased the car brand new back in June 2010 and it now has about 24k miles only. I'm just worried the dealer is gonna charge me because of my modifications/accuse me of abuse. I've got an intake, full exhaust besides stock headers and reflash.
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I have a 2003 Jetta GLI. When i turn my a/c on some of the vents blow harder and colder than the others. Why that would be?
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Noticed lately my car has been riding very rough. I feel almost every imperfection on the road its crazy. Not lowered or anything. On the stock suspension. Tires are inflated to the proper pressure. I suspect the tires? But they have some decent tread left on them still.
18k on the car.
I did notice my suspension being a little squeaky when it was colder. its annoying the car doesn't ride like a lexus anymore. All this rough riding is making the MY14 rattles even worse
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Was getting around 52.5 MPG in warmer weather, changed the tranny fluid and normally people report an increase in MPG. We're now getting around 50.5 MPG, so a 2 MPG loss. In addition, temps have gone from around mid-80s to mid-60s. Wondering if that would explain the MPG drop?
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Is it just me or does the AC blow colder air when I fill up the gas tank... without fail, after every fill up I notice colder air coming out the vents than previously before I fueled up. what's going on???
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3.4 2001 GLS.. When it's near freezing out there and humid, the car won't crank, it's not the starter since I can get it going by jumping it.. I'll just leave the car alone, go to work and start it later and it will start just fine for who knows how long..
It did it 2 days ago, I didn't notice any security light on solid or anything else whatsoever but I think I have an electrical intermittent problem that gets worst with humidity or colder humid air.. I've read most topics here but I still can't figure it out so far.. Inspecting the fuse box showed that the positive wire was surrounded by green dust, I've cleaned that.. My horn sounds anemic at times when I use the remote door lock..
Is there a relay dedicated to crank the car, I mean, sending the power to the starter solenoid? I just don't get the relation with that near freezing or freezing temperature thing..
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In the winter the front passenger floor get colder than the rest of the car. Only way to keep feet warm is to take off shoes and wrap fleece blanket around the feet.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord LX with 96K miles on it. As the weather has gotten colder, my car radio is turning itself on. I walked out last week to a frigid 19 degrees here in KY to the blaring sound of my radio on in the car. There was no one in the car and no key in the ignition, rather the key was in my hand. This has continued to be a problem and occurs sporadically during the day. I have tried turning the radio on/off, keeping the volume down, but regardless, even the clock face panel turns itself on.
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It has gotten colder & my 2003 Dodge Neon SXT (140,000+miles) started having trouble & seems to stall transitioning from park to reverse then into drive. It sometimes seems to shift out of the gear and then will stall/engine revs when gas applied but won't move into drive until warmed. Once the car runs/warms up it seems to be ok. Is this a bigger issue (transmission, spark plugs, etc) than just needing to let car warm up longer?
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When I purchased my car last year I ordered it with the remote starter. It works great unless the weather is 12 degrees or colder, then it will not start the car. This morning I tried to remote start, it started it for 2 seconds then shut off, I did it again with the same result. I then went out and physically started the car and went back inside only to go out 15 minutes later to find the car stopped running but the radio was still playing. I then restarted the car and again went back inside 15 minutes later the car this time it was still running and was just starting to melt the ice on the windows. I have had issues in the past with the remote starter not working but today I actually went to the door and listened to what it was doing.
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2001 ford taurus. The heater worked (not great) then slowly got colder each week for 4wks changed the thermostat.
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I have a 2002 Camry 4 cyl LE with a 4spd automatic transmission. Recently I have been experiencing slow long shifts from 1-2 and 2-3. It's as if it is coasting in neutral for a couple of seconds before finally engaging the next gear. I experience this sensation only after the vehicle has cooled down. The transmission will start to shift like normal within 3 miles of driving. I have only experienced this recently as the weather has started to drop.
I have not changed my transmission fluid much as it is a synthetic and Toyota claims it will last the life of the car. I did a drain and fill at 90K mi. The car currently has 150K mi on it and after experiencing these problems I did a drain and fill, drove the car 10 miles and repeated with another drain and fill. This seemed to have worked on the first day after doing this but now it is back to the slow long shifts. I am thinking of cleaning the strainer and taking the car in to have the transmission flushed. Is there a way to tell if my transmission is failing?
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I have a new 2016 Toyota Camry XLE V6 with all available options. I have been disappointed with the Lane Departure feature. In this colder weather in the morning when you start the car it seems like the windshield inside the enclosure above the rear view mirror clouds up because of the difference in temperature inside and out and the Lane Departure is unavailable. Is this normal anyway?? Is the enclosure above the rear view mirror sealed air tight or not? I drove 3 hours yesterday before the sun apparently dissipated the fog in the enclosure and the Lane Departure came on.
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When starting, especially in colder temperatures, the engine start is interrupted by a "thud" sound. The start occurs after this one-second "interruption" while I keep the key in the start position. This interruption occurs only once, usually when first starting in the morning. Subsequent starts are normal,unless the car has not been in use for a few hours. Then the "first start" problem re-occurs. The starter motor has been replaced. No improvement.When the problem first began a few months ago, very intermittently, the gauges in the dashboard would not register as would normally happen and I could hear a whirring sound for a few seconds. Then the gauges would perform as normal. This is a 2004 Taurus with mileage of 64,000.
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I've got a no crank issue this morning. This truck has done this randomly off and on, mainly during colder temps, but normally if I hold the key in the start position for a few seconds it will crank. This morning, no such luck. Batteries are good, everything has power, I can hear the starter relay clicking when I turn the key to start but it won't turn over. It never does this during warm weather. It got down in the low 40s last night and it's rearing it's ugly head this morning. The only code is the P0341, camshaft position sensor, but I don't know if that would be the cause of this or not. It's a starter issue or the CPS?
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The heater fan quits working on colder days. It is not the fan motor, as twice after it has quit, several days later the fan began working again. As controls are switched, the indicators light and mode shifting sounds can be heard. It seems to be that the fan quits on the colder days (<38 deg) the will resume working again when the outside temperature exceeds 50 degrees.
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester XS, bought it new, has almost 100,000 miles. Only take it to the dealer. Regular oil changes, and routine maintenance. Around 65-70,000 miles, I began to hear a sound like a playing card against a bicycle wheel in colder temps only. Dealer called it 'piston clatter' and not to worry about it. So I didn't. Over the years it has become a year around sound, even worse in colder temps. I've been afraid to drive it out of town on the interstate or highways because at times the engine sounds as if it's going to jump out of the car. I wrote to Subaru corporate, only to be referred back to the dealer, who again, will only tell me it's 'piston clatter'. I have used fuel additives, and a tank of premium every now and then. Still makes the same sound.
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I have a 2003 f250 xlt with the 5.4l engine in it and lately my AC hasn't been standing up to the heat of the Midwest. When driving around town or on the highway my AC blows really cold but at idle you can tell a drop off in temp. Is this normal due to extreme heat or is there something I can do?
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I have an old 98 Lesabre, and it runs and drives great. When I first got it I had to do the Vacuum line mod on the programmer to get the HVAC to blow out the face vents. That was the best $1.60 and 30 min I spent on a car
That mod still works and was done about 1.5 years ago, the ENTIRE time i have owned the car the temp blinks when I start the car, but the HVAC has always worked fine so I paid no attention to it. That is until 3 weeks ago when I had to replace my intake manifold. I disconnected the battery without turning the system to "off". I have been doing a bunch of reading online, and it seems I may have thrown the system's sync off by doing this.
Right now my problem is this, colder air coming from the pass side then the driver’s side. When I start the car it will seem synched for a few seconds, then it will start blinking and both vents will go FULL COLD, eventually it brings the temp back up the d-side gets hotter than the p-side. I have done the following:
- gone through AT LEAST 50 on/off cycles
- Removed the 9c fuse to try to reset
- Pulled down the glove box door and watched both the upper and lower blend doors go through there whole range of movement (which they do)
- Tried to re-sync by pushing the temp full hot, then full cold a few times in a row.
Besides getting this scanned by a tech 2, which is my last resort, is there anything else I can do?
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I ordered and replaced all the LEDs in the car and the license plate LEDs as well. Now I got that damn orange bulb on my dash. Anyway to clear it?
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I am installing Sparco Evo Seats, a custom Harness Bar and racing harnesses in my MK4 R32 and have questions about wiring of the airbag and seatbelt sensor. What do I need to do so the airbag light and seatbelt warning light do not come on.
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