Golf/GTI VI :: AC Does Not Blow Cold Air When Car Stops At Lights Or In Parking Lots
Apr 22, 2013
Air conditioner was acting weird. (It doesn't blow cold air when the car stops at the lights or in the parking lots. But it works great while driving). Then I went to dealer. And they scan my computer. And they said we need to change Aux Fan control unit and also one of the fan .I ordered OEM Aux Fan Control Unit . And I installed it. I connected Vagcom and cleared the Fault code but It still acts same. I checked the fans. They both works fine to me. They run 10 seconds and stops. So I didn't get this part. How the heck this AC works fine while I am driving but it doesn't work when I stop ?
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I have a 98 Buick Regal. When my air conditioning works, it is beautiful. On a hot and sunny day when I pull out of the garage, I can run the air conditioning until the car is turned off. After reaching a destination and parking in the hot sun the compressor will not blow cold air. If the day is overcast or cool, the air conditioning works fine. What the problem might be?
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I've seen several posts regarding the warning lights, mine is a bit different. My Warning Light, Maint Reqd, ((!)), and engine light are all on. I've driven it a few times since and notice that after driving for 10 minutes or so, the VSC light also comes on. In one instance the brake light also came on. At that point my AC seems to also stop blowing COLD air. The motor blower motor still runs, but the air is no longer cold. Battery checks out. Coolant levels are good. Code indicated "something with the inverter cooling" according to local garage. Suggested I take it to the dealer. Scheduled for a trip to dealer tomorrow but wondering if there's anything I can/should do in the meantime.
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I was driving home on the highway, and my 2006 Elantra did the following things in this exact order:
-Heater started to blow out ice cold air
-Temperature gauge rose, dropped down, and then rose right back up to the red area and stayed
-As I was slowing down to pull over, my tachometer dropped to 0rpm
-My "Check Engine" and "Battery" lights came on
-The car completely died and came to a rolling stop on the shoulder
I am trying to find answers as to what has happened to my car.
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I have a 2005 Prius that financed from a small dealer last year. Currently has over 140k miles on it. When I bought it it had the Red Triangle and it worked fine until recently (about 2 months ago). Recently I've been having some problems. When I go at higher speeds I get the following sings come on:
1. Red Triangle
3. Orange check engine light
2. Orange (Symbol)CHECK - Malfunction Indicator Lamp
3. Orange (!) - Brake Warning Light
4. Orange VSC - Vehicle Stability Control Warning Light
When these lights are on, my AC stops blowing cold air. Sometimes when all these lights are on, the car will slow down and will not let me go past 37 MPH I have to then pull over turn the car off and then on, then the lights turn off and I can drive normal, on short trips that is.
Recently on a longer trip over 50 miles or so all the lights I mentioned came on plus the red break light on the left turned on with a continuous beep. We pulled off the HWY and turned the car off then on and the lights disappeared except for the big red Triangle that one is always on. We continued driving it but it kept doing it so we had to let it rest for over 30 minutes. We had to take it really slow and we finally got to our destination.
Codes P08A3 and P0A37 Prius 2005....
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After turning off the stooooopid inside-cabin reverse gear beep alarm two months ago, I was worried about the silence of my PiP while backing up in crowded parking lots, etc. Searching for a piezo-electric add-on backup beeper audible behind thater than in the PiP, I found this site:
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I'm at the end of my rope! My 2005 Ford Five Hundred Limited has a constant problem with the A/C system and overheating. In the last year I've replaced the compress, expansion valve, dryer FOUR times. They have replaced the condenser, blower motor, and added Freon, and checked for leaks. It will blow cold when running fast and then blow hot. They have replaced belts pulleys, They have replaced the thermostat, fans, coolant reservoir, hoses. and it still overheats. I've taken it to 4 difference mechanics including two dealerships. No one can seem to fix this problem.
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I have an 01 Jetta 1.8t wolfsburg eddition and the AC won't blow cold air. The AC Clutch does engage when I press the AC button on the control unit The refrigerant pressure is good The fan blows, but its hot air. the condenser is working because the pipe is cold when the ac is running I am curious if any of you know what other possible problems could be causing this. It is currently 100 degrees with 100% humidity
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I have a 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B. It is a great car, and I am very happy with it. However, it is making this noise and no one can figure out what it is. I have taken it to the dealership three times and the never hear the noise, and they can't find anything wrong.
The noise occurs mostly in parking lots at parking lot speeds. When I got over rough pavement or speed bumps, I get a clunking noise in the front drivers side wheel well. It sounds as if something is broken or loose at the top of the strut, right at the top of the strut tower. I do not hear the noise on smooth roads or at highway speeds. I can get it to happen in certain parking lots, but the dealer would not go to those places.
Recently I started to get another noise out of the same area. When I back down my driveway (slight down hill grade) and I get towards the bottom, I turn the steering wheel clockwise almost all the way so that I back to the right and can pull out to the left. When I get to the bottom at full turn, I hear a loud clunk and I can feel the car shift around a bit. I can repeat this over and over by pulling back in and then backing out again. It only does it when I back up to the right, not to the left. Today, It did it again but I was on a flat surface, which I had not noticed before. I backed to the right, turned the wheels fully to the right, and it clunks. It also clunked two more times when I shifted into first and started to pull forward out of the turn, almost like it was hanging up on something.
The dealer looked at the car three times. The last time they replaced the stabilizer bar links and bushings, but it made no difference. They say everything is tight and looks normal with no leaks. I am thinking it is either a front axle or front strut that is bad, but they can't confirm. The struts are really expensive on this car, so I don't want to replace them on a whim.
Important details: This is a 6 speed manual car. Turbo 2.5L boxer 4. AWD, with 68K miles. Issue was first noticed about August 2011, seems to be getting worse recently.
What this could be. I love this car, as it is a monster in the snow, which will be flying soon, and I really don't want to be driving with something broken.
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A few months ago, when I used the AC, it would kick in cold for a minute, then blow hot air for three minutes or so... and repeat. I checked into it, and the only error I got was the N42 resistor short to ground code. Looked it up, and it's supposed to be located here:
(#1 in the pic).
Funny thing... Cars with Climatronic don't have that resistor in that location (or at all from the searching I've done... and my blower works fine on all speeds). A week later (after a cold front), the AC worked flawlessly... Through SOWO. Wasn't until earlier last week that I noticed it crapped the bed again. The compressor isn't even kicking on... I haven't had the chance to scan the car again, but I'm going out on a limb to say it's the same error, to a resistor that isn't on our cars...
The compressor seems to work perfectly when it does work... So I'm thinking something's not kicking it on like it should. I'll be checking all fuses/relays tomorrow in the daylight.
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Ok here is the issue, my girlfriend owns a MK4 '99 Jetta. Through the search I was able to figure out why she is having so many issues with her door locks and how they can be fixed on the cheap..thats awesome. But here is the problem. She was driving down the road the other day, A/C working...then suddenly it stopped blowing cold. Fan is still working, just blows hot air. She said it started blowing warm suddenly and hasnt been getting warmer through out the past days or anything.
With the hood popped and the a/c on, you can see that the compressor isnt engaging. The car makes a noise like its engaging the compressor, but nothing is happening that I can see visually. Seems as if the compressor is not getting the signal to engage. It sounds like its trying to make the compressor kick on about every 5 seconds or so. Basically that initial clicking sound that your hear RIGHT before the compressor comes on when its working normally.
We have checked the fuses and no luck with those, all look good. Seems like its an electrical issue to me. What this may be? Bad pressure switch? Low pressure in the system? I know the car has had the compressor replaced before...and the clutch seems to spin freely when the car is off.
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The A/C does not blow cold. The Compressor clutch does kick on and stay on The passenger side fan kicks on only (I think the driver side is toast but i need to test it to confirm) The system has 45psi on the low side
I did not check the high side as I don't have a gauge for it but will get one if I need to test that. So my thoughts are that my expansion valve is toast which is what expands the hot liquid and turns it to cool liquid so the A/C gets cold. I think this because it seems all of the other components work.
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Mk4 problem: my interior fan in my Jetta doesn't work on any of the levels, the ac button doesn't work either, and nothing is lit up except the recirculating button.. Resistor?
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I have a 94 ford Taurus all of a sudden my ac doesn't blow cold and my heat doesn't blow hot. Also every now and again I hear a sound like an alarm clock coming from passenger side??
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my (new to me ) 2011 TDI DSG occasionally will surge when cold at parking lot speeds. You all know what im talking about. Ive found a handful of updates and TSBs that deal with it, but they said they cant apply unless they can replicate it. I left it over night so they can drive it cold and of course, they cant reproduce. I am gonna go back in 4-5hrs after it cools fully again and ill drive him this time. Annoying nonetheless.
Couple other questions: The car just got a 30k 4 mos ago. From prior records, the previous owner had the fuel filter changed at 20k in June 2012, then the 30k svc was done in Jan 2013. Should I be proactive and change the fuel filter now before the 40k or just wait it out?
Should I press for any other maintenance, etc to be done (car is at 35,900 miles today)...?
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So the switch is pretty basic, only on or off! ahha. Is there some other way to just have everything but the headlights running? aka parking lights?
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I just did the tail light with fog and I am trying to get the city lights to work, I did the whole pin 3 on the euro switch to pin 19 on the black connector and it hasn't worked, i got the rear fog to work without using VCDS, but when i try to get my parking lights, they flicker and then shut off. I saw a guide for tapping into the side markers, but I am sure there's a more legitimate way, at least I hope.
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I have a 2007 jetta 2.5. I installed some Halo headlights on the car. How can i drive the car with only the halo lights on as these cars have daytime running lights and no option to just turn on parking lights. or is there a way to have the halos run all the time instead of the headlights.
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I recently bought a used '07 vw rabbit, and today when I tried to use my parking lights, I could not find any way to turn them on. I called the dealer later, and was told the rabbit does not have "parking lights". What should I use when I want to pull off the roadway briefly, etc. and why did they not put parking lights on this car? Is this a new trend?
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Its a 2000 jetta. Turn signals and brake lights all work fine. The parking lights don't work the bulbs seemed a little burned but filaments are fine. I tried replacing with bulbs from autozone and they had the sylvania 1156 so I tried that and came home and they did not work. So I go onto the autozone web site and it says to use the 1156A. Would that really matter? I couldn't find anything else. I did some searching and found some stuff saying my light switch could cause this. is that a common thing? How can I check this? I am fairly new to the MKVIs as i switched over from a b3.
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I have a 2003 Jetta. I would like to have my parking lights on all the time, controlled with ignition (without any headlights), & have my headlights only cone on when I turn the headlight switch. Is there an easy way to do it?
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