I own 2013 Mk6 GTI. I am having to over crank the engine for a period of 8 seconds or so before the car starts, especially after it has been sitting for a few hours. My thought was a faulty check valve in the fuel pump. I have heard that our fuel filter has a built in pressure regulator that may get stuck open for whatever reason and that may also cause a long crank time.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1988 Dodge pickup 1500 with a 5,9 gas engine. It used to pop right over all the time. Now, in the morning, I have to crank it forever until it starts, and if it sits for 1 hour or more, same thing (have to crank for a long time). It is my understanding there is a valve called a one day valve that holds pressure on the gas line. Is it possible this valve is not working properly? And if so, do I have to replace fuel pump to fix problem? once started it starts up with no problem until it sits for hour or more then hard to start.
View 15 RepliesThe past couple of cold starts (not real cold mornings though) I have experienced long crank time to start. Once started she starts normally. No time to read but I'm getting a little worried that I'll get stuck somewhere. I'll check back with my phone when I get into an area with cel service.
View 14 RepliesI recently (in the last few months) have noticed my truck (1999 F350 duallie) seeming to be running very rich … I pull a 32' trailer with it and noticed on the art few trips the front and right side of the trailer covered with diesel fuel spots when I got home …. It also smells very rich when idling…. The last couple times I started it in the mornings it seems to crank a very long time before it starts …it still runs but its got issues evidently … it has these 3 codes :
P1280
P0475
P1670
The 1670 will clear , but the other 2 I can't clear, they are right back every time you turn the key on …
So ive had a starting issue in the R32 for quite some time now. With waterfest approaching and the new S3 going into production that i ordered, it has come time to finally fix it. I have taken in to many dealerships and very talented techs, and no one has any idea. The car seems to crank for a very long time or start right up and then just completely stall and die. The second time i start it, it starts completely fine like nothing ever happened. This only happens when the car sits for a few hours. It has never done it if the car has sit overnight or during the cold months. It has to be warm and sit for a specific amount of time. Its like it catches the car transferring into a cold start but not fully cold yet, if that makes sense. Also i am now noticing a small squeak each time it starts, like a belt. I have replaced the fuel pump/spark plugs/coil packs. Nothing has changed. We thought maybe a stuck injector but were doubtful as its not constant. Im debating a cam position sensor just to see if thats the issue. There is no CEL or any codes.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2006 Sonata GLS with the 3.3L V6 and close to 230,000 miles. A few months ago I noticed that my crank time at starting was longer than typically - it has steadily gotten worse.
Now the crank time is close to 8 - 10 seconds. (Which might not seem like much but trust me, it is).
I suspected that the fuel pump was faulty, however, once started - it runs great.
I put a pressure gauge on the fuel pump outlet and found that it only kicks the pump on when the car is cranking, the fuel pump does not kick on when the key is in the "on" position. Once the vehicle starts, it seems to be drawing fuel.
The pump has all sorts of pressure, I am not worried about that.
I decided to change the Fuel pressure regulator valve thinking that maybe it wasn't holding pressure - That didn't seem to do anything.
Do I need to change the entire Fuel Pump Assembly?
So my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.
So how long does one have to crank until it is considered an extended crank? 2 seconds, 5 seconds, 10 seconds.....?
The reason I ask is after all the motor work I did on my truck sometimes she fires up in less than 1 second of cranking and other times it take maybe 2 seconds of cranking. I do not think 2 seconds is considered and extended crank time but was just curious about what is considered extended cranking.
Car does not have to get wet, just be in humid air. Problem going on 2 years now, mechanics tried disconnecting a (?) ground/sensor from computer, major tune up, new fuel pump. Until recently, it just took keeping it in crank position for a long time for it to finally start. Recently, in crank position for 30 seconds does nothing and has me worried I'm doing damage. In dry weather, it starts first time every time.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Windstar that only in the fall and winter it has a longer crank time of at least 10 seconds. In the summer it starts as it should within 3-4 seconds. I did notice that the times it did start normally in the colder air is when I turned the key on and listened to the fuel pump prime the system. All other times it doesn't do that and that's when I get the long crank time. Once it is started it runs as normal. Am I looking at a possible fuel filter or pump? I am due to replace the filter as the van has 83,000 miles on it. If this is the possible culprit, is this something that is easily replaced at home?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 F350. I have long crank times. No Codes. I have Autoenginuity with Enhanced Codes and everything shows fine. I replaces standpipe and dummy plugs. Glow Plugs and harness. I was hoping it not be the STC but I needed to do oil cooler so wanted to eliminate STC. Got truck apart and the STC Fitting is newer style so I'm kinda bummed out. Not sure if I'm missing something and as far as I have it torn down is there anyway to test what could be causing the problem? Or just put it back together and keep my fingers crossed that whoever put the new STC fitting in screwed it up. I'm beginning to not like my truck.
View 8 RepliesRemoved my oil rail to replace standpipes/dummies (04 Wavy rail) and now I have huge crank times to start. This is after the initial Huge crank to get it started. Do I have air in the system, or did I bugger something. I did the whole deal very careful. I lifted the rail up very carefully, pipes removed. I lined up the rail nipples with the injectors and evenly pressed it back in place, and then inserted my dummies/standpipe. Tightened the rail to 120 inch lbs then the dummies/standpipe to 60 ft lb. I did my son's '06 a month ago with no troubles. (didn't remove rails though). Once running it sounds perfect, turn it off and re-start and it's a long crank (30 seconds or more). I have not monitored ICP/IPR while running, will try that today.
View 8 RepliesOn the way to work, the truck seemed to have a miss at idle and the CE light came on. Long crank to start leaving work, and truck starts losing power and eventually died. No smoke while it was losing power. Towed it home and checked the fuel pump and lines for blockage and found nothing.
2003 7.3 F-250 430K miles
strong cranking but no start no smoke out exhaust
Oil changed recently
IPR changed
Both UVCH gaskets and pigtails have been repaired.
ICP sensor and harness changed, also disconnected no change in cranking.
fuel filter changed today (no oil in bowl)
3/4 tank of fuel
dash gauge for lpop goes up to normal range during cranking and oil light turns off.
WTS light comes on and turns off as normal
tach gauge moves up between 100-200 during cranking
fuel pump turns on and pressurizes system like normal and turns off.
Ordered AE for the truck, and it directed me to the passenger side bank high open. Fixed the harness on that side and still nothing.
Sent off the IDM and it passed with flying colors
So now i'm leaning towards the HPOP, but would hate to fork over the cash for it and still not get anywhere. I'm going to take the valve covers back off and check the discharge ports for the injectors tomorrow.
I was going to post this in the technical forum, but going by the amount of replies, this forum seems to have much more traffic. Anyway, my car has random long crank issues. It usually happens when it is really cold or if the car has sat for a day or more. I will have to hold the key over for 5+ seconds, but as soon as I turn the key back and crank again, it fires right up.
I have replaced the battery and tested it and the alternator, replaced the CTS (green top), not that it's relevant, but I just replaced the thermostat, housing and all seals, no CEL. Any other things I can check?
My car has been throwing an ABS code for a long time now and I've finally decided to actually deal with it.
The code is: 00285 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Right (G45): Electrical Fault in Circuit
After reading that this could be due to a bad sensor, I replaced the front right sensor, but I am still getting the exact same code. I used measuring blocks in VCDS-Lite to check out what was going on with the wheel speeds and found that at speeds less than 20 km/h, the front right sensor reads 0 km/h, while all the others continue to read the proper speed.
Lately I've noticed the radiator fan has been running fairly excessively for the entire duration of a trip. (~1 hour) The ambient outside temperature has been around 30 degrees and was driving normally on the highway for the entire trip. (engine temps are normal as well)..
When I shut the engine down and get out you can tell the fan was really working since it takes a good 10 seconds to spin down. (almost like a jet engine shutting down). Still other times, it doesn't do it with the same conditions. One of the only things I can narrow it down to is it seems to always run long when it's the first drive of the day.
Currently own a 2001 vw golf gls 2.0 with 223000 kms on it. used specifically as a beater car. Noticed that it has all of a sudden started to make a creaking sound when it has run for a long period of time. Stops when you hit a speed of around 50 kms/hr.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 1500 with the 5.3V8 motor (ext. cab sb 4x4 LT). I was my dads and had the service engine light on for a long time for the P0446 code. I replaced the vent valve and the purge valve and light keeps coming back on. Usually can go for a day or so and then it comes back on and I get the same P0446 code.
View 3 RepliesI wrote about the problem I was having back in Jan 2014 (engine would crank too long if I left the car parked for 30 mins to 4 hrs) ..... well, I finally brought it o a good diagnosis tics place and some of the guys that replied to me we're correct ..... they told me that the crankshaft position sensor (1of 2 sensors) was faulty and replaced it.
View 3 RepliesI am having a no start issue with my 2008 golf city( it is a mk4 with a facelift) i have already replaced the ignition switch but the car still will not crank. it starts up easy if i get it rolling and pop the clutch but i cannot get it to crank. when the problem first happened the car cranked what seemed like halfway then stopped and now will not crank at all.
View 2 RepliesI have my disc changer loaded, but each time I get into the car, the vehicle starts playing the last disc that was playing - even if I had another input selected.
I usually run music/waze through my iPhone during my commute, but when I get back into the car to go home, boom: music from disc starts blaring.
Is there a fix? I've looked through the menus and haven't found anything about CDs autoplaying. The easiest fix is probably going to be just to remove all of my CDs, but I was just curious if I was overlooking something.