Golf/GTI VI :: 2012 - Wouldn't Shift / Kept Revving?
Jan 8, 2015
So I was driving on the highway a couple of days ago in my 2012 GTI and I noticed that I was really having trouble getting up to speed. I was going 65 mph and the speed increased to 70, so I tried going faster, only when I pressed down on the pedal nothing happened.
The car just kept revving. Later when I got the city I noticed that the car wouldn't shift, so I put it in manual mode and shifted it myself. Couple of hours later lo and behold the check engine light turns on.
The car is at the dealership now and I just found out it was the fuel pump. My car has only 26,544 miles on it and I have had it tuned by APR but I don't know if that caused the issue.
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Okay so I bought this car and a week later tranny wouldn't shift out of first when I would slow down or at least it would take a min. I would hit 4or 5 grand then it would jolt me back. It wouldn't do it every time though. I bought it to go to college drove it the 900 miles on the highway and had no problems except right before I left town but then fine. All I did was change the tranny fluid before I left which I can confidently say I don't think has been changed before that. stunk bad bud no metal.
Alright now I'll go jump in the car to go to class and it will not leave first. If I put it in the manual mode it thinks it's in third but clearly if in doing 15 mph at 4000 rpm that's not the case. It doesn't do it every time. Kinda hit or miss. After driving for a min it usually shifts. Sometimes I make it the two miles without it shifting though. Also sometimes It will shift but once I slow down it won't shift out of first again.
I have seen a code for torque management since I bought the car. The check engine light is on now but I haven't seen the torque code since I change the MassES. that's not to say it's not still there. I used a different handheld computer for the check engine light the last time I did it and I could have missed it because I was unfamiliar with it. I have put a mass airflow sensor, battery, alternator, and changed the tranny fluid since I have owned the car. drained 3L of tranny fluid and put 3L back in. Oh and the last time I checked the light it said lean in bank 1 but I was assuming that was an unrelated issue.
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I just brought my gti in for the 20K oil change etc... I have noticed something weird... when I accelerate hard or have been driving for a while, and then shift into neutral or push in the clutch, the engine revs up to almost 2K, then back down to 1K once or twice, then finally settles to 700rpm's. It doesn't do it cold, or when I have the AC running.
I have no CEL's, and the dealer just said they ran a fault check, and it was clear. I do have an APR exhaust and a K&N intake (I think stage1 tune)... I asked about the PCV valve, and they said that would throw a code... They said they could do additional diagnostics out of warranty, since they think it has to be part of my aftermarket stuff.
I don't know if it's related, but if I really jump on it, in 5th gear or so, I can hear the car losing a little rpm's then around 4K just for a second, then it's goes back to normal... This only happened once or twice, so maybe it was just in my head...
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I drove our 95 3.0l aero to work today, I was going to a job 45 miles away. It sounded like it was revving awfully high for 65-70mph, but the gear selecter said od, so I figured I was just crazy. Got to the job and tried to back up and the shifter wouldn't go into reverse. Parked for the day after realizing the shifter would go N and down, but not into rev or park. Apparently it was revving high, as the gear indicator was now off and I was no doubt in drive, driving to work. I got it home, then had to drop my daughter at work, by staying in OD.
Then on the way home the van just DIES while going 35+- mph. Won't restart, smelled gas after many many attempts to start. Towed home. NO spark. I have 12+ volts at+coil. I tried my ignition module and a new one, neither sparked at the coil wire. I bought a new coil, then checked resistance at + &-, and - and coil output post. Basically same resistance new & old coil. Did my hall effects or cam, or crank sensor just go out or? Why both problems same day? I thought if it was the coil or ignition module, maybe it got too warm on drive revving high. Does a 95 3.0 coil get triggered by the distrib haal effects or does the crank sensor do it?
I can easily see one of those being bad as they are original, with 334,000+ miles. All the tune up, coil, wires, plugs, ign module, cap, rotor, were replaced 55,000 miles ago. ALSO does this distrib have a TFI module on it? My book says to pull the distrib and remove it, like my 5.0l Mustang, but I don't see one, I think thats the ignition module on the pass. inner fender. I'd like to see if I can get 400,000 miles out of it.
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Quite literally just received the buyout agreement yesterday. My wife went out this morning to leave and the car turned over a couple times but wouldn't start. I went out and tried it and it would turn over, the engine would (pretty violently) bounce, but wouldn't start. The 4th or 5th try (as you see in the video below) started. Turned it off and tried again and just click, click, click. Seems like a classic case of a dead battery? Not seen a GTI react so violently to having a low battery before though...
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My son called me today to pick him up. His 98 S10 would shift into gear but wouldn't go forward or into reverse. New clutch 6 months ago, hoping something simple like low gear oil or worse?
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Five months ago I purchased a Saturn with 60,000 miles. Yesterday upon leaving my driveway it wouldn't shift out of first gear. Turned around , put it in the garage & tried to backup, put it in reverse & the vehicle would not move and the tranny made a loud whine. For the past two weeks the tranny made a loud " clunk " when it shifted into second, also on the highway it wouldn't shift into high gear & was running at 2500 rpm. Is this an electronic issue or more ?
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Went to start the car today and it started fine but wouldn't shift out of park, and the instrument panel lights were out. Got it towed to the dealer and they narrowed it down to a junction box or instrument panel cluster. They won't know until tomorrow what the problem is. What this might be?
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I'm under the understanding that my 03 explorer AWD tranny level can't be checked. Is this true. Well anyway , went on a 1000 mile round trip. Left for work following morning and truck wouldn't shift to 2nd without letting off the gas. OD lite was flashing. Got to work. Left work and goes into 2nd fine but now it wont hit 3rd till I let off the gas. No OD lite flashing but now check engine lite is on. Watzz up. I would like to check the fluid....but see above.
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I was able to quickly diagnose the problem with our 99 T&C LXi w/3.8L.
Problem: No speedometer, wouldn't shift, check engine light came on.
Many posts suggested speed sensor. There are actually 2 of them. An input and an output. Both cost approx $20 each.
By removing the aircleaner box assembly, I had the best (relative word) access to the sensors. A 1" socket w/3" extension did the trick. I understand the access for 2000+ models is different.
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I just got my ISF 3 weeks ago and this issue got me pretty worried. I would like to hear if there has been a recall or a fix on this issue. While in Drive (D), the tranny wouldn't shift past 2nd for a couple of seconds. It went as high as 4.5RMP and wouldn't shift, the RPM kept going up. Letting go off the gas did not work, the RMP just stood where it was and slowly decreased with the speed. This lasted for a few seconds. I must admit that I was just pulling out of the driveway and she wasn't properly warmed up (16 degrees temp or 60fh)...
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I have just recently acquired an 01 Accent with the 1.6L and have had a few problems with it. It has about 112,000 miles on it and at about 109,000 it had the following services performed by the previous owner (reputable shop did the work)
-New battery
-New timing belt kit
-New water pump
-New valve cover gasket
-New plugs
-New belts
-New front pads
-New front rotors
-New rear wheel cylinders
-New front CV axles
-New tires all around
-Alignment
Now since I got it with about 111,000 miles on it, it ran and drove great until I had to put a new alternator on it as well as having to take the center console and automatic shift lever out to repair the wires for the O/D button. Car wouldn't shift into high gear. The problem I am having now is the car will crank but it will not start. Not even a sputter. I drove the car to and from work the day previous and then went out and started it to go to work in the morning and it started fine and ran fine for a minute or two then it just died like I turned the key off. No spitting or sputtering like it was running out of gas just died completely. Checked a few fuses and such and really not sure where to go from here because I don't have a code reader and don't wanna just throw parts at it, I would rather troubleshoot the problem.
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe and last night, out of the blue, the engine wouldn't start. The shift lever was stuck in park and the brake pedal was very stiff and wouldn't move much. I popped the cap off the shift lock and moved it to neutral at which time the car started without a problem. I could drive but shifting was difficult and the lever didn't really click into a gear. I noticed that when shifting gears. the indicator on the dash would change from N to D and to R in reverse but when I moved up to park, the indicator went blank and the lever locked up again and had be released manually. I also noticed when I got home, since my driveway is a slope, that when the car seemed to be in park is rolled down the driveway, so I had to engage the emergency brake.
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On December 27th I was driving home and just hit the city limits when my car wouldn't go faster than 50km - no more than 20km up hill.
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I've had my 2012 PriusC for about a year now and I'm loving it. As of a week ago the car has started doing this revving thing. I notice that the engine seems louder when I'm accelerating and it seems like I'm getting 30-40mpg instead of the usual 40-50 in cities (but it might just be me).
What worries me is that when I'm driving and I push on the pedal to accelerate, after I release the pedal there is a very loud whirring sound of the engine. It sounds like a MuscleCar or Racecar that is revving it's engine but not going anywhere. This sound happens if I accelerate lightly or severely and the revving sound is louder the harder I accelerate. I notice that if I accelerate and then ease off of the gas slowly, I don't hear the revving sound.
I notice that this seems to happen randomly, as in I start the car and it happens from the start, or I start the car and it doesn't happen at all for that drive.
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I'm rolling down the freeway in stop and go traffic, so I have been EV stacking. Clicked from EV to HV several times over the course of 5 minutes. Then, I hear this fairly high pitched revving sound - even and constant rev up, not rev/idle/rev. I thought it was the truck next to me, so I turn down the radio and away from the truck but it happened again. I would stomp on the gas for a moment, and it would subside - not completely because it would start doing it again very soon. I'm not accelerating, but it would be like throwing it into neutral and revving. When I come to a complete stop, it would not go to EV - the light isn't on like when it is warming up the ICE.
My exit was coming up soon, so I would alternate pumping the brake and gas to get it to stop. Only when I was at the light that I powered off the car to reboot. Since then, it did not recur. Strange... Perhaps related, but I doubt it - I had bumped into a vehicle around 3-4 mph the day before. I was... drowsy.
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Today I started my car (in the garage so it wasn't too cold) and everything was fine. The car warmed up in a couple minutes and I was off.
As i was driving, I noticed that my shifting was horrible. It felt like i was burning the clutch and not releasing the clutch smoothly in general.
I then noticed that when i pressed in the clutch ready to take the next gear, the engine would raise the rpm's about 500-1000 revs before coming down.
I started to wait till the revs came down to shift and that seems to work.
Why would the engine be revving itself higher the second after i push the clutch in. My dealer can't take me until Wednesday so I don't know what to do.
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I bought a new 2014 Prius plug-in base model two weeks ago. No problems until yesterday.
The engine has started revving really loudly on occasion. It's much louder than the normal ICE noise in hybrid mode - 2 or 3x as loud (much louder than our regular Honda Civic engine).
When the revving happens when I'm in EV mode, the EV mode light on left side of dash stays on (but it's clearly not in EV mode). The EV and Eco symbols above the power bar go blank. The MPG won't go above 25 mpg, no matter if I'm not touching the accelerator. Switching from EV to Hybrid mode and back does nothing.
The only way to get it to stop is to stop the car, turn it off, turn it back on, and then it's fine - EV or Hybrid mode, it sounds normal again. I have not tried to drive more than a mile with the noise to see if it goes away. It occurs when:
-If the fan, heat or defrost is on when I turn the car on - turning them off doesn't stop the revving.
-If I switch the fan, heat or defrost on when stopped at a light - turning off doesn't stop it. (But it doesn't happen if I turn heat or defrost on while moving in EV or Hybrid mode.)
-If I switch from EV to Hybrid mode while stopped at a light.
The weather is cooler now and I'm fine with the ICE starting to warm up the engine, the compartment, etc, but the revving noise doesn't seem normal.
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I have about 26,000 Miles on it, this afternoon I tried to start it. The starter engaged and turned over and over and over, but the engine wouldn't start. Then I took the key out, waited 5 seconds, and tried again, it started. It was about 60 degrees out, so it wasn't cold. Half a tank of gas.
This may seem a little petty, but its a 2012 with only 26,000 Miles on it.
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Recently, when I start my Golf 2.5 DSG it has been revving a little loud or rough. It usually revs at under 1k at idle, but when starting up it revs at around 1500 until I put it in drive and release the footbrake.
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My Dad's R32 is revving at a higher rpm than it should at idle. It happens randomly for about a minute and then goes away only to return later. He took it to the stealership, but they will not facilitate because they could not replicate the problem. I'm thinking it is some kind of vacuum leak.
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