Golf/GTI VI :: 2012 - Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement?
Jun 22, 2016
What to do if your timing chain tensioner fails and wipes out the valvetrain. Go to www.vwusa.com and click the contact us page. Find the link for "online chat" and open a dialog with a vw rep. Have the vin, milage, purchase date info handy and tell them what happend.
Maybe I just got lucky, but I thought my (second owner) 2012 GTI with 46000 mi was toast, the rep (Bill H) told me not to worry and set me up with a case number and the location of a dearship that will confirm the damage and replace my engine.
My experience is in direct opposition of what I have read on forums when people take their GTI's to the dealership first, then after hagling with the stealership managers for weeks on end finally end up emailing vw corporate (which takes weeks to respond) and finally having the issue resolved.
Of couse, this is only if your car has not had the warranty run out. I thought that being the second owner voided the powertrain warranty...again that was false.
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Changing timing chain tensioner? Mine is making the rattling noise on startup. Tried searching one internet for any DIY's out there. Haven't really found any good ones.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla with a leaking timing chain tensioner. I was able to locate a procedure for replacing the tensioner but it didn't say whether the no. 1 cylinder had to be @ TDC or not. What is the proper procedure for this repair?
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Can you change the tensioners and guides without removing the chains or getting the cam lock tools ? Doing a in truck repair to fix a squeal sorta noise at start up without the belt on coming from passenger side valve cover that lasts for about 5 sec. oh fyi CRC new freeze off works wonders compared to jb blaster for my tear down so far!
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I hear it's a problem on the Mk VI. Is there anything you can do or upgrade to eliminate the problem ... especially considering that it goes out of warranty after 5 years.
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On Feb 2015 I had this oil leak developing around the timing chain cover/ oil pressure plug and so i replaced the oil pressure sensor and clean the area and though problem solved...
Fast forward today and the weeping has redeveloped and has gotten larger than last time , its only a weeping issue no visible oil droplet leaks, anyways I took a mirror and when probing around and found the leak origin from the rusty looking timing chain tensioner...that what i think it is.
My question is should I just remove and replace the Rubber O-ring on it or should I just replace the entire timing tensioner unit with a new one, my original timing chain tensioner is sitting at 85k miles. The O-ring is free (i have a kit) and i can do it right now or a New Timing chain tensioner w/ new O-ring is around $20 bucks but i cannot verify the part number ...
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I have an '09 Tiguan that recently began to start hard. Two days ago, it refused to start and hasn't started since. It cranks and cranks but to no avail. I disconnected the fuel line at the first hard piece on the front side of the head. The primer pump when activated pours gas out of the line for about 5-8 seconds.
I also pulled the coil packs off and verified there is spark on them. I scanned the car with vcds and came up with nothing other than a couple voltage codes (battery is low at this point from cranking and is bulged and showing yellow in the spot window).
Tonight I borrowed the perfectly fine battery from my B6 and attempted to start it. No codes whatsoever and yet it still refused to run.
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Got an oil change yesterday and the dealer noticed a small oil leak from the timing cover on my '10 Corolla w/ 71k. Of course they could reseal it for $450. After further investigation, it looks like it is actually coming from the timing chain tensioner. I have seen on the 9th gen this is a common issue, but I haven't really seen anything on the 10th gen. Sometimes, I have noticed a short squeal or squall at cold startup, but it hasn't been enough to really diagnose. It could be some oil on the belt or something else related to this issue. Hopefully the pictures show up.... [URL] ......
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I have been reading about all these horrific cases about the tensioner just giving and causing catastrophic failure. Without all the maintenance records VWoA is reluctant to support 100% even if you're still within the powertrain warranty. I understand these 20+ cases are a small population out of the entire group, but I don't want to risk being another statistical point for this topic. Just ordered the HS Tuning kit and the two snap on tools.
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2010 corolla bought new 3/29/010 has 43k dealer said timing chain tensioner was slipping and might leak oil wanted $175 to replace shouldn't this be covered under the power train warranty?
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Yesterday i went to mechanic and changed Timing chain tensioners, with chains and all guides. But still have 2 second voice on startup, once oil pressure lights off everything fine. I paid heavy price on parts and labour but very disappointed after hear same noise again today morning which i was listening from one year purchase of this car... Sonata 3.3l v6 ....
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My son's 2007 Hyundai Sonata had an engine noise that was eventually diagnosed as bad timing chain tensioners. However, one Hyundai dealer repeatedly denied the problem, so it was 8 months before another Hyundai dealer admitted it and changed the tensioners. A couple of months later, the engine light and oil light were on and he was told he needed a new oil pump. By this time, the warranty had expired and he had to pay for the new oil pump and eventually a new engine. My question is this: Could the failure of the oil pump have had anything to do with the timing chain tensioner problem?
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2001 Jetta GLX, 12v 2.8 VR6 Automatic, 157k miles.
Relevant Info: P0411 code, unknown if associated with my slightly rough idle and recently reduced mileage (down by 3-4 MPG). I see 2 N80 valves, one by the power steering reservoir and one behind the throttle body attached to the fire wall. I removed them both, got a tiny bit of what may have been charcoal out of the lower valve and tested both with a 9 volt battery. Both were closed with no power and open when I attached the battery. I cleared the code and it returns within 30 minutes.
Possibly irrelevant info:
Changed the timing chains 3 weeks ago and the code popped up just afterward. Prior to changing the chains, all I saw was a Cam Position Sensor code that is now clear. The slightly rough idle was present to a greater degree before chains were changed but has improved.
SAI solenoids look good but their little rubber hoses don't look fantastic. Could this contribute to the rough idle or is it not part of the vacuum system?
Ignition coil is new and all plug wires tested to about 6k ohms.
I've looked up other's experience with P0411's and have seen the list of possible causes. Wondering if I'm missing a possible cause, if I can test the system further without having to buy parts etc, if the reduced mpg's and rough idle are related...
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I have a new style 2004 F150 XLT supercrew with a 4.6. Well, I just hit 300,00 miles earlier this week. The truck has performed pretty much flawlessly over the years (and still does). I've replaced front hubs, IWE's, brakes, fluids, etc, but have NEVER opened up the engine. Is it time to replace the timing chain?
First thought is ,yes, like 50,000 miles ago, but... It has some dents and dings and the rust is getting to it. There is 300,000 on the transmission also... Virtually no residual value- If it strands me on the road, it's time for a new truck.
On the other hand, it only burns a little over a quart at 3000 mile change intervals, the transmission seems strong. I just shampooed the cloth interior and detailed it. The thing looks great from the vantage point of the steering wheel.
No engine issues at all- no rattling, etc.
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Experiencing a really bad rattle after changing the oil? It sounds like the chain tensioners are losing pressure during the oil change.
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So working on a 2005 F150 with a 5.4. Started off as a phaser replacement. Turn out the passenger side timing chain guide was badly damaged. Front timing chain cover came off and replaced the guide and phaser. Got everything back together and it ran rough. Pulled the front timing cover off and the passenger side was off a tooth.
Retimed that passenger side and also replaced the tensioner because the seal on the old tensioner wasn't the best. Now rotating the engine, i noticed the tensioner pushes then retracts. Seems like a vacuum is created pulling the plunger in, but not entirely sure. Only the passenger side does this, not the drivers side.
Worried about putting the front cover and valve covers on, buttoning everything together and having it skip another tooth because of slack in the chain. Any fix for it or reason why it does it?
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I've noticed a noise coming from the engine which sounds to me like the timing chain. Seems like the tensioner is keeping the chain a little loose while the RPM's are low. The rattle doesn't happen all the time; only when I let off the throttle or accelerate keeping the RPM's low.
This is just my guess that it's the timing chain. I had heard a similar rattle in my old I35 and I had to change the timing chain tensioner.
I'm going to check the engine oil level tomorrow morning. This 10,000 mile oil change is really starting to seem like a not so good idea! Right now I'm at 9950..
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First off I have a issue the Timing Belt Tensioner Stud / bolt that holds my tensioner on is stripped and came out with my tensioner. I don't want to risk putting it back into the engine because some one prior to owning my car stripped the nut that holds it in. Where I could get a new one of these bolts. I have a 2000 VW Golf GL with a 2.0l. I've searched high and low on parts sites and cannot figure out where to buy this item.
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Alright so MK4 vr6 AFP engine. I did the timing chans when I bought the car around 175-180K. Car now has 224K miles on it. A few days ago I started hearing the chains slapping around. Because I didn't want to call it a broken guide just yet for tor the hell of it I took the upper chain tensioner bold out dunked it in oil and pumped it up till it was hard again. Put it back in and drove the car about 130 miles straight. I didn't hear them making any kind if noise. The next day I drove it about 30 miles still no noise. Later in the evening I whent to get gas when I pull in the drive way I noticed they were rattling around again. So the next day I drive it back home (130 miles) and noticed they were even louder especially around 1500-200 rpm.
So I took the tensioner back out and dunked and pumped it up again. It didn't do anything this time chains are still loud. But I noticed when I was pumping the tensioner in thr oil both times the air bubbles weren't coming out of the bleeder hole they were coming from the end around the piston. When I did the chains the first time I got everything from Germanautoparts.com. and I notice that the tensioner they sell isn't genuine vw part the only place I found the actual vw pary is ecs tuning and the stealership. Is it possible I just have a defective tensioner? I really want to get to the bottom of this before I go and pull the motor and find that nothing is broken. Should I just buy the oem tensioner and see if it fixes it first?
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Looking for info if the R32 has a timing belt or is it a chain and at how many kilometers shows it be changed.
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I was thinking about checking out the above vehicle at my local dealer (Chevrolet). They're asking 15.9k and it has 57k miles. I need to know if it has a timing belt or a timing chain and how reliable is the engine/transmission.
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