Golf/GTI VI :: 2012 - Spongy Brakes / Pedal Taking Longer To Depress Before Stopping
Jan 10, 2013
I've got a '12 GTI (bought 10/1/12) with just over 20k miles on it. Everything on the car is stock and original - pads, rotors, calipers - and the brake fluid hasn't been flushed yet. The last few months I've noticed an increasing sponginess to the brakes, the pedal taking longer to depress before I feel significant stopping.
Pads and rotors still look good. Fluid level's normal. At best it feels like maybe some air pockets might've worked into the fluid lines. At worst it feels like maybe a leaky master cylinder. I'm wondering if it's a common problem.
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About a year ago, I bled all 4 brakes and put in new fluid on my 01 Accent GS 1.6L auto. Still to this day, they are very spongy, and you have to push them far to get good stopping power. My pads are ok on the front, rear shoes are ok as well. No leak in lines anywhere. What's up with this?
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My 89 240 is a project car so I am just fixing everything up as new until it's all done.
Replaced the Brake Booster with a fully reconditioned one, a new master cylinder, full pressure bleed, new pads. Now I have fantastic brakes but they feel super spongy still . As an example, I make an emergency stop to check if they are ok and after stopping just fine , the pedal still wants to go down further. I have checked all the flexible lines for ballooning and they are ok .
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Taking longer and longer for key fob to open doors, etc. Assume the battery needs to be changed. Have no problem with other fob. How do you change the battery in the key fob for this year model.
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I'm not exactly sure what's going on but it feels like I'm missing some brakes - the pedal is extremely spongy, I have to push it nearly to the floor. And when they do engage, it isn't with the same vigor as they did before.
It's strange, it just sort of happened - I drove to a friend's house, everything was fine. But when I left all of a sudden, there's this problem.
It's not like the pads have come apart and destroyed a caliper - I had that happen to me a few years ago and I definitely felt it happen, plus once it did I lost almost all braking ability as the lines would just leak fluid.
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02 Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5 spd 115K.... My A/C seems to take longer and longer to start cooling/ When it does start cooling it seems that is is actually colder than it has ever been (original owner) and the control is more sensitive to the touch when moved. Being a 4 cyl it's easy to detect when the compressor kicks in and it seems each time it is taking longer to do so. If I stop the motor, it goes thru the same cycle of time or longer before cooling (compressor kicking in) again. No codes, No unusual noises.
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2001 2.0
251,xxx km
Noticed here lately that my brake pedal is depressing further, and can go to the floor if I press it hard enough.
If I press the pedal quick (panic stop) it engages quickly and in the correct spot (I can feel the front tires almost lock up) then it depresses more almost to the floor. the brakes still work perfect however.
What should I try first?
I use my hand brake, and have pumped the brakes and pulled the handbrake to set the rear pistons in place.
I replaced the two rear calipers about a year and a half ago and bled them obviously. Have not bled the front brakes and will do that, but was just looking for more insight, and common problems, vacuum leak, etc.
Reservoir is full as well, and no brake line leaks that I know of.
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So, got the 20 K miles service done last month on my 2012 Passat.
Recently I noticed that when I press the brake pedal to slow down, it seems to work fine. The brakes "catch" the rotors, there is a clear "grip" to the rotors and the car responds pretty fast to start slowing down. However, when I did a brake check to stop the car, I notice that when I press the brakes hard, they don't "grip" the rotors as hard as I would expect past that initial grip instance. Seems like their grip is not "catching" the rotors. As a comparison, my other car (6-cy, disc brakes front and rear) does maintain that grip. Am I missing something in this? Is the behaviour of the Passat's brakes expected?
How often does VW do break flushed based on their service schedule?
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Brake issues 2003 f250 super duty 6.0. Changed master cylinder, drivers side rear brake hose, new pads all around. Pedal is good at times for a few seconds. I've bled them all numerous times truck running or not flushed power steering pump new fluid. Brakes are spongy or go to floor. Do I need a scanner?
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I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
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I'm not too familiar with these trucks, but I've been working on my buddies 1999 e350 ford van.
The other day we were going out kayaking, and the brakes locked up, we were able to drive it home, but it was obvious the brakes were holding the truck back. decided to check it out today, found one front and one rear caliper were sticking, the dual piston calipers only had one working, which I believed to be causing the pads to get pressed together crooked, and caused them to "lock up" or get stuck.
anyways, got the new calipers on and no more sticking, so I bled the brakes started in the front and went all the way to the back, did every caliper. brakes feel firm with the vehicle off, but instantly when the van is started, the pedal goes to the floor. it still stops okay, but the pedal feel is not nearly where it should be.
I got all of the air out of the system, but the abs light is on, and has been for a while. I'm wondering if there is something else that needs to be bled in the abs? someone was telling me about bleeding the abs motor?
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Just recently I"ve noticed my Pri-v is taking longer, and not as often switching to EV. All these observations are after the car has been fully warmed up and driven for several miles with a sufficient battery charge. Previously it would always switch to EV at 43mph when letting off the accelerator.......and I could keep it going usually till about 45.... A quick let of the accelerator would almost always accomplish this. Recently it has not been consistent...a few times not even shutting off when the car is stopped. The car has about 88,000 on the odometer. I've always noticed when it does go from ICE to EV, the transition is not a smooth too. That I"m guessing is the transmission fluid?
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Having an issue with my brake pedal. When the car sits for long periods of time, usually overnight, the brake pedal is extremely hard to depress. I have to really press down hard in order to start the ignition. Took it into my dealership, and they actually said there was a TSB issued for something to do with the brakes. Well, evidently, they fixed it, but the issue came back almost immediately, only this time it's worse. The brake pedal firms up after 3-4 hours of sitting.
Brakes feel fine once the ignition is turned on. I was told there's no issue with driving it, but I'm not so sure I trust what I was told.
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I've been having a randomly recurring problem with my 2004 Hyundai Elantra for several months now. I'll be driving along and will notice that my brake pedal won't depress. When I step off of the accelerator, it is like the brakes are already engaged. Eventually, the brake pedal won't depress at all and the car acts like the brakes are fully engaged. Sometimes I can let it sit for an hour or several hours and the brakes will readjust and I can move again. So far I have replaced both calipers, rotors, 2 brake hoses and the master cylinder, but I am still having this problem. My mechanic is flummoxed. Any time I have the car towed in, the brakes release by the time it arrives and he has no problem to observe.
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2003 accent. I had an intermittent starting issue, nothing serious. Then one day dead in the water. Had it in my garage so i changed all belts, Crank position sensor, starter and solenoid. It seemed to start different, a little longer than usual to start, but started. Drove it for about a week and dead again. Dont know if it was chance or not but as weather got colder, seemed to take a little longer to start. Cranks but does not fire. I can hear fuel pump priming. I took the spark plug wire and held it next to frame and did not see a spark. To double check i tried ether and still would not turn over. Assuming fuel is not an issue at this point. How ever i did get an evap code p0441 but it went away. I am stumped at this point. I am not very good at electrical on vehicles. I want to check coils, and work my way back but not sure if I am doing it correctly. Most vehicle videos don't have the same parts.
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I have a new battery in my 2008 Toyota Camry XLE. The car wouldn't start today so I replaced the starter. Auto parts store tested original and confirmed it was no good. After replacing the starter it still will not start. The brake will not depress. The instrument panel lights will not come on, but the air, radio, headlights, wipers, etc. will turn on. What else could be wrong. We have been trying to figure it out all day and can't even turn it on to get it to a mechanic.
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Ok so I had this creaking noise at first when I press n depress the gas pedal (how normal driving should be) and I sprayed some WD40 and now the noise is gone, but it becomes kind of sticky when pressing and depressing.
It's like when u rub ur finger on a glass window back and forth, there is time when it catches ur finger (sticks) before u can move it the opposite way, it's not smooth as it used to be (my other camrys are smooth).
When pressing a little, then a little more, it has that sticky feel, same thing when depressing the pedal. That's the best I can explain it and it is really noticeable when I'm stuck in traffic.
Do u think I have a bad pedal or some white lithium grease will take care of this?
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I just replaced pads and rotors on my 2000 Passat GLX. Everything went fine, i got done, pumped the pedal 10-15 times, took it for a test drive. When I depress the pedal, it goes all the way to the floor, the car pulls right, then left, and slowly stops. At this point, if I hit the brakes again, it feels normal.
I figured it just needed a few minutes, I drove it for about 45 minutes, and it never got any better. I have changed the brakes several times before and never seen anything like this before.
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I've got a 2008 Subaru Outback with a 5-speed standard, 50K on it. Lately, when I depress the clutch pedal, it makes a whining noise, in any gear or even in neutral. It goes away when I release the pedal. But it also stops making the noise when the engine warms up. That's the part that confuses me.
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I can't get the pedal to depress when trying to move from a stop. I was doing fine until this evening when heading back to my hotel following a theater performance. When attempting to accelerate from a stop light . . . NOTHING. I put the car in neutral and stomped on the pedal a few times and it finally engaged. Happened again when trying to merge onto the highway. As long as I keep pressure on the pedal it is fine, but as soon as I release it sticks in the "up" position. Naturally, I'm away from home, the roads are icy, and it's Sunday!
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I have a 1999 Cadillac Deville. when you start the car, it must warm up and then a signal appears on the dashboard that says to depress brake pedal and shift into gear. HOWEVER, after the message appears and I depress the brake pedal, it still will not shift. Now I have the world's largest paperweight sitting in my driveway, because I cannot even get it to a repair facility. What is wrong, How do I fix it?
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