Golf/GTI VI :: 2012 - Bucking And Surging Up And Down When Cruising
Oct 17, 2012
So me wife has put on about 7000 miles on her new tdi. It's a dsg, 2012. We brought it in for some warranty work and oil change at 600miles.
She is having bucking forward and back issues in the morning and after the car has sat for a while. When you go to accelerate light throttle it literally jerks forward and back and moves you in your chair when shifting first to second.
Dealer said no codes no updates nothing. I know the dsg is clunky normally but it literally jerks us back and forth in the seat 2 to 3 times or more.
Also when on the highway it surges up and down when cruising 70 to 75 like wind is blowing the car with steady throttle.
I told dealer last visit to reset the dsg gearbox as my wife did 70%traffic driving the first 4000miles. Now it's 90% highway.
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1987 BMW 535is ... I first noticed the issue after getting gas with the tank nearly empty. Car lost power under acceleration, bucked, stalled, etc. After it idled a while, I was able to get it home. Fiddled with it off and on for months to no avail. Because it sat for periods of time, I would need to jump it. On those occasions, it idled perfectly and ran like a champ. Upon restart, the poor running conditions returned.
I finally gave up and took it to a BMW shop, which replaced the mass air flow meter, plugs and rotor. It ran like new for a few months, but the bogging problem returned.
Essentially, it acts as if the engine is starved of gas, bucking and surging, backfiring sometimes. It does seem to run better on a full tank, but that isn't always consistent. It also seems sometimes to improve once the engine is warm - on occasion you can feel the transmission grab hold upon letting up on the gas and the problem totally disappears. But not even that is consistent, and lately it starts and idles ok but then starts coughing and shuddering unless you hit the throttle.
I have suspected a weird electrical glitch, but grounds are fine and everything else checks out. Usual switches and sensors appear fine. While it had been running very rich before the MAF replacement, computer now shows 21 MPG, which is very high for this car and certainly doesn't suggest rich running. Have not had the fuel pump/filter checked, but it seems to be getting gas, compression is good and the BMW shop did not suspect a fuel delivery issue.
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I've got a 2006 2.4L manual trans - runs great, except every once in a while, at low r.p.m., it surges or bucks. Sometimes, I press the gas and not much happens for a second then it takes off.
Other - much more rare - times it bucks like a jackrabbit a few times until I let off the gas, start over, and it accelerates fine. And most randomly of all, the idle seems erratic - not rough or jumping all over the place, but not always at the exact same r.p.m. Or if I come to a stop, the idle will drop really low for a second, then "wake back up" and idle normally.
But then most often of all, it drives normally. Anyway, step one was to run a tank of premium gas with a good injector cleaner. Which I'm doing now. Wondering if it's spark plug wires?
No "check engine light" at any point during this. All maintenance up to date; recent spark plugs; 187,000 km.
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My 2006 expedition surges very slightly while cruising under very low throttle. Usually most noticeable at 60-65 mph with no headwind.
Took it in and had my mechanic check it out. He confirmed the slight surge and said it felt like the torque converter was locking and unlocking. No codes or pending codes were found related to the power train.
Abs light is on for a bad rear wheel speed sensor. Code for right rear. Checking the sensor showed 3 ohms for right, 5 ohms left ( left is less than a year old on a new wheel bearing.)
Initial thought was the bad sensor is giving bad input confusing the pcm/tcm. But the condition remains with the sensor unplugged.
Driving down the road watching the tach, it does appear that the converter is not staying locked. Condition goes away with more throttle. Motor runs smoothly otherwise with no indications of misfire. Plugs have 50k miles on them, as does the transmission fluid. Fluid is red and smells fine. Never gotten hotter than 210 by the gauge in the pressure port.
Why would it lock/unlock at very low throttle, but lock tight with more throttle? Tps flaking out? Throttle body motor getting twitchy? Can I pull my popup to the hills this weekend?
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Occasionally, under the right conditions, my turbo seems to surge...meaning I can hear, and feel the turbo kick in and out...kinda like it is right on the threshhold of not knowing if it needs to kick in out not. This usually only happens when I'm cruising along and just slightly give it a little more gas. Otherwise it seems fine...plenty of power etc. What could be going on here...just the nature of the beast??
My truck is a 2011 F150 Eco Screw 4by....
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I have a 2012 mk6 and did stage 1 APR about 3 months ago and loved every single moment of it. It made a huge difference on the car but like all good things they don't last forever so it was time to move to bigger, better things so I went stage 2 this weekend ( apr stage 2 carbonio, APR downpipe and reflash ). I installed it at a VW dealer in Mount Prospect, IL, same place where I got my stage 1 installed.
When I drove off with the car everything seemed to be just fine and the gains were noticeable. Later on as I was cruising I started hearing a rattling noise coming from the front of the car, right under the DSG shifter. I was thinking it could be one of the clamps that was used to install the DP, I didn't get a chance to look under the car yet. What it might be? This morning when I turned on the car, I did not hear the rattle...
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I have a 06 f350 with 5.4 140k miles. Recently it has been shaking bad on idle but only in gear and it's hard to start when cold. The exhaust is moist at all times and the fluids never leak. When you floor it it hesitates feels like it's overly rich but if you let off a little it stars to pull again. Also while cruising at 1500-1700 rpms in any gear it will surge and skip. Only time it will miss and the CEL comes on is over 4000 rpms for a random misfire. Just put new coils in new fuel pump and filter. There has always been a cat code but it never effected the drivability. Could it be injectors?
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I have started noticing a hum or vibration that I can feel in the pedals when I am cruising around 50-60mph. Doesn't matter what gear (automatic trans) I am in, I can feel the gas pedal vibrating slightly at those speeds. Below or above that, it goes away. Any thoughts? I know dealer, dealer, dealer, but wanted to know what you all thought so I can have some direction to lead the mechanic in so they dont tie my car up the whole day.
Don't think it's:
Wheel bearing because I don't hear it all the time.
brakes because I don't feel any vibration at other speeds.
Gear box because I can shift into different gears at different speeds with no sound.
Tires because I just got them rotated and the tread still looks new after 22,000 miles.
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Searched but did not find. Just bought a 2015 Accent hatchback. Only issue I have had is a lean bucking of the engine if you don't have enough throttle (RPM). From a standing start, the auto trans will shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd very quickly if you are going real slow. I have to give it at least 1/4 throttle and accelerate quickly to keep the trans from shifting too soon. So far I have 2000 miles and 1 oil change, running 93 octane gas. Is this condition normal?
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I've had this 2012 for several months now but have never really romped on the throttle until yesterday's road trip (not a lead foot driver).
I was driving on the highway at about 55 when I needed to pass so I floored the throttle and - the truck bucked like a wild horse and the power dropped to a low acceleration. Once I backed off the throttle to about half-way the engine took off like "normal".
These symptoms were repeatable throughout my entire 500 mile trip. Is this a known issue with the EB?
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I am new to the Prius and have noticed that when cruising the car seams to surge or pulse while driving. Is this normal?
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Just bought a used 2012 IS-F 1-owner with 37k miles. Clean Carfax and AutoCheck - very, very clean car.
Test drove it with my wife, fell instantly in love, and signed the paperwork. As part of the dealer delivery, they gave a full tank of gas and washed/waxed the car.
While enjoying the 8 mile drive home in 5:00 traffic, regular speeds of 40-50 mph without any start/stop on the freeway and surface roads, I noticed that the range (distance to empty) on the full tank was only 169 miles!
I realize this is a hi performance V8 - but c'mon! Is there something wrong with the car?
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So, this past Saturday, I was driving down the road at about 40mph when all of a sudden, the engine started to buck and violently shake the car. I immediately pull off the road and settled on a side street with engine still bucking. When I made the turn, I applied a bit of throttle to get it round and there was essentially no throttle, so I kind of coasted to a stop. It was the strangest thing. I let it sit for 10, turned the key, and the starter turned the engine over only to start bucking again. Immediately turned off the car.
Figured I'd program the car back to stock mode (have APR Stg 1 flash) and give it a shot. Except this time, the starter worked and the engine didn't turn over. Tried a few more time, but got the same result. Starter worked, engine didn't. Fast forward an hour and a half and a flatbed shows up to haul me to the dealer. Called the dealer today to find out they haven't been able to replicate the issue and there's no code. In fact, they actually got it to start and it's been idling for 30 mins. When the tow guy came out, he thought it might have been an issue with the car not getting fuel - which seemed like a possibility. But, the car has a full take of 93 oct in it.
Like I said, APR Stg 1 ecu flash and that's it. Has 31K mi. DSG. Funny thing was, a day before this all happened, I brought it in for a 30K check-up and there weren't any issues.
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[URL] .... I reviewed the thread but my issues happened all throughout my drive back.
The car started to "buck" between 500-1000 rpm while in 1st gear. Randomly in 5-6th gear it did the same thing ( Car felt like it wanted to shut off in the middle of driving). I also smelled a horrible petrol scent when stopped at a red light. The car never totally died, but it felt like it wanted to the whole time.
What could be the issues? Coil Packs? Bad Gas? Belts? Battery?
My car just had an oil change with amsoil and new vw oil filter. New spark plugs in the summer, fuel filter changed, and rear diff fluid changed.
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Need to noticeably reducing road/tire noise? I love how civilized and relaxed this car can be, but there is a decent amount of noise while cruising. Nothing extreme, but if I could reduce this by a good amount, without much of a weight penalty, I would certainly consider it. Is dynamat a feasible option? And yes, the soundaktor is long gone.
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I Have A 2013 F250 I Have A H&S On It. I Have It Delete. And The Cel Comes On In The Morning, Ill Get The Code In The Morning. But It Has Something To Do With Coolant Temp Sensor. It Also Does Like A Bucking/Power Surge. Boost Goes From 0-10-15 ,When you Hold Pedal Steady. Do I Need To Update My H&S Or What?
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Title says it all. I was on my way to grab dinner, stopped at a light and heard it. At first, I thought it was a car next to me. Then it kept on going, and my CEL came on. I pulled over, shut off the car, popped the hood.
Temp normal, no smoke, restarted and watched the engine. Rough idle, and it appears to be bucking. Sounds like belt noise, not sure what is going on..
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I've got a 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon 250k mi. Makes the wroh wroh wroh wheel bearing sound, but wheel bearings are new and rock solid. I have been able to feel it through the floorboard and steering wheel for months now. But yesterday, while cruising at about 80MPH on I64, it got worse. Every now and then, I get a clunk clunk clunk mixed in with the wroh wroh wroh and it sounds really bad. When I turn hard left, the sound goes away. When I turn right, It sounds like satan is trying to escape my engine bay. The faster I go, the more violent it gets. No clicking when I turn, so I've ruled out outer CV joint, but was thinking that maybe it was the inner Cv joint?
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Picked up an R about a month ago. Have noticed a harmonic vibration when cruising just above 70 mph to 75 mph from the rear. I can assure you that it is not the wheel balance. Seems to go away if I depress the clutch. I'm thinking it is the butterfly valve on the muffler not fully closing and creating a resonance by fluttering at the rpms (exhaust flow) between 70-75 mph. I haven't tried disconnecting/plugging the vacuum line yet.
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I can't stand that noise anymore.. When I cruising under 20mph the noise coming from the engine bay driver side, sometime both sides. I did a search on the forums so I replaced the front control arm bushing, Strut mounts, strut bearings. Yesterday I replaced the 034 transmission mount to OEM mount, I can't believe it the 034 mount last for 10K miles ONLY. But the noise is still there and make me crazy..... Is possible my PSS coilover went bad?
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Buddy of mine woke up with a GLI that runs like this. Stage 2 Uni, cold air, 3 inch turbo back. [URL] ....
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