Golf/GTI VI :: 2012 - B Pillars Are Very Loose?
Jan 7, 2015
My 2012 2 door gti's B pillars are very loose. for example, if i reach for the seatbelt and hit them they move alot but they dont come off. On my sisters jetta and my mom's GLI they are very stiff. Are they supposed to be like that?
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Noticed the shiny black door pillars forming hairline cracks? My 2012 is now over 3 years old and has 34k miles and is not garage kept. The pillars are starting to show cracks pretty bad in what looks like the clear coat. The drivers side is much worse, but I think that is due to that side getting more sun during the day while I'm at work. With that being said, I still don't think these should be cracking this soon.
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So I'm swapping in a Black headliner for a friend and I've had no trouble with mine in the past, but his car has the A and B pillar airbags. I have the Positive Cable disconnected from the battery, how should I go about it.
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On the B-pillars (at least I think they are the B-pillars) there are air vents right about the height of the rear door window. I have never felt any air come out of them no matter what settings I choose I Heat/AC controls. 2004 V8 .....
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I have a 2 month old 2011 Camry LE. Really disappointed by the quality of interiors. A rattling sound comes on and off from both the B-pillars as if something is lying loose in pillar. Have tried pulling both seat belts to the max multiple times, adjusting seat belt heights but all in vain.
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Last weekend I had to pull up the front passenger carpet to check my DVD player wiring, and I was shocked to find a puddle of water in the foot well, and the carpet pads were soaking wet. The water looked clean, and quite recent luckily.
On further investigation, I found water in the front driver's side foot well and in the rear passenger side foot area.
So I took the heroic step of removing all the seats and pulling out the carpet to thoroughly dry out the car, and replaced the carpet pads which were too soaking wet. Took almost two days of work, didn't want to spend the big bucks on a new carpet with the pads attached ($1400). Not hard work, just tedious, and the seats are heavy to lift out.
Now the mystery part, where did the water come from ? No water on top of the carpets, not a drop to be seen anywhere. But loads of water below the pads.
1. Checked the sunroof drains, all four drain well, and the sunroof drain holes are totally clear. Did a test with a garden hose but no water gets into the car.
2. All the body drain holes have the rubber plugs. Car is in pristine condition. The car is a 2009 RX350 with very low usage.
2. Checked AC drain hose- condensate water is draining to the ground. Ran AC for an hour, not a drop felt anywhere below the evaporator.
3. Now that I have dried out the car and put the carpet in, I am mystified as to the source of this water, and am afraid it is going to recur unless I can find the cause.
Considering that the water was most present in the front passenger side, and below the carpet, I suspect it must have come in from the A or B pillars. Is it possible for the water to have taken this path if the sunroof was not totally sealed shut for some reason on a long trip in the rain ?
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I have a 2012 SE v6 with 1600 miles on it. About a week ago, I noticed my bumper cover pulled away from the corner of the headlight and there was a noticeable gap. I pushed on it, and heard a click. The bumper stayed in place. After a couple days driving, it came loose again. I didnt touch it so the Service Writer would see it first hand. Of course, his first instinct was to puch on it, but I got loud quickly, so he kept his hands to himself, and heard me out. I knew if he clicked it back into place I would be SOL. He admitted something needed to be done, not just click it back.
When I picked it up, he said it was a known issue, and there is a TSB on it. He claimed they replaced a bracket. The invoice reads, "ADDED FELT TO TIGHTEN FIT". Yeah, Im sure that will hold just long enough for them to wash their hands of it.
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I recently bought a brand new Toyota Camry LE 2014.5 and yesterday I noticed that the Fuel Filler Neck is very loose. It is so loose that I can move it using my little finger. Is this normal Or should I take it to the dealership? The car has 300 Miles on the odometer and yesterday was the first time that I filled it with gas.
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My check engine light came on about 4 days ago on my 2014 toyota camry. Found the gas cap was loose that same day it came on and tightened but light is still on and Eco mode not coming on. Is it possible the problem is something else or does it take longer for the light to turn off.
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My check engine light is on. I have a 2013 Camry LE with only 13,000 miles. I immediately checked my gas cap and found that it was extremely loose. My spouse put gas in my car a few days ago and apparently did not tighten it afterwards. I tightened the gas cap after discovering this but the check engine light did not go off. Does the light will go off eventually if the cause of was a loose gas cap? If the light isn't going to go off on its own, is there anything that I can do to reset it myself?
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My 2012 Plug-in spontaneously started making a metal scraping/rattling noise in the middle of a low-speed drive around the neighborhood yesterday. Seems to be coming from the left front wheel area. I've checked thoroughly under the car and in the front wheel wells for anything that could be dragging/rubbing, and I can't find a culprit there.
It occurs while coasting in EV mode, so not ICE/exhaust related. The car doesn't pull to one side or the other. Only 9K miles, so I wouldn't suspect a hub bearing or any other significant wear to be causing this.
Possible clue or red herring: the dealer replaced the the left front tire and did an alignment two days ago, and the noise occurred within 15 miles of driving after that service.
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I noticed my 2014.5 camry has a loose driver's window. When rolled down between 2 to 6 inches, it rattles when driving over small bumps If I actually feel the window, it moves about 1/8 inch to the sides when open 2 to 6 inches. I mentioned this at my one year service. The tech showed me other 14.5 SE's they had the same problem only on the driver's window. He said the dealers can't do anything about it because it is how Toyota designed the cars.
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I noticed the driver side window in my car is loose. It wiggles on the track when rolled down 2-6 inches. You can also hear it in the door when the door is closed when it is rolled down all the way. It sounds like the windows on the old Trans Ams and Camros, which were always loise. It became loose between the first scheduled service and the one year service.
I mentioned it at the one year. The tech said all 4 2014 SE's had the same problem. He showed me it, too. He told me there was nothing he could do since its how Toyota made the car. And the other cars had the same problem. Since he said there was nothing he could do about it, I called Toyota to report it.
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The steering on my Mk5 3.2 is feeling a bit loose and disconnected. I'm also coming up on the end of my 40K mile warranty. Is this common to this platform, or are there some end links, etc. that I should have the dealer check out?
Even if it is not a wear issue, what can I do to tighten up steering response and tracking? Ok so further searching with different terms gave me control arm bushings as a possible culprit.
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I have an 02 Jetta the the left CV Axle came loose from the tranny/axle flange. I checked the Bentley and it shows that a bolt holds the flange on, I guess a spline. My question when taking one off, is there anything inside that will drop/pop off when I pull it? The reason I need to take it off is that some of the bolts actually broke off, while others screwed their way out. Not sure why they came out or what made the others break but they did. It would be so much easier to get the broken bolts out with the flange out.
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Does the latching mechanism on hatch have a little play in it or is it tight. I would like to get some info before I tear into the hatch trim to see if it needs to be tightened up a bit.
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My R is almost at 70k miles and the front end feels sloppy and loose. What is the best option to restore that new car feel or even get it handling better than stock? I already have United Motorsport strut mounts which definitely improved the handling. ECS has some suspension refresh kits (links below), but the question is which one should I go with? Would the Stage 1 kit with OEM replacements be enough? Or should I go with the Stage 3 with Powerflex bushings? I'm always down for upgrading rather than simply replacing. I'm sure that would get it handling real nice, but would definitely create a stiffer ride, right?
Stage 1 - [URL] ...
Stage 2 - [URL] ...
Stage 2+ - [URL] ...
Stage 3 - [URL] ...
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After driving in heavy snow I noticed a cable hanging loose in a loop under the car in the mid section. What could this be ?
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Recently i noticed that my gear stick is very loose. I have read that this is a problem with the linkage bushes. I have found that the bushes are in the engine bay (3 i think) but i was wondering if there are more bushes under the gear stick that i need to change. Looking for a complete kit for all the parts needed ? Do i have to change something else ?
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I have a 2004 VW R32 with a stage 2 VF supercharger kit on it. Blower was on the car when I bought it, so don't know who did the installation.
The Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on and stays on. My scanner says that there is an evap code. If I clear the code everything is fine until I have driven a few miles and then I get a "gas cap loose" warning and soon thereafter the CEL lights up.
I can't pass smog here in Reno with the CEL lit. Nobody here seems to have any clue at all. This has been going on for over a year and I am getting pretty desperate. The car is due to be re-registered next month and I can't do that with the CEL lit.
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I replaced my front brakes today and not sure if I got the rattle clip back on right as it seems loose. After driving for a little bit, it seems the clip might be wiggling it self loose.
In addition to this, my brakes sounds terrible. Lots of squeals.
I have replaced many brakes and never ran into this issue before. I cleaned everything up and greased the contact points with brake grease. I then did the bed in process that Hawk recommends for their pads.
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