Golf/GTI VI :: 2012 - All Dash Warning Lights On After Battery Disconnect / Discharge
Sep 5, 2014
I replaced a post-cat O2 sensor because of a code that came up last week. We didn't reset the ECU, but after driving it a couple days the check engine light went out. 3-4 days of driving and everything looked good.
Today the check engine light came on again and autozone read the code as:
P0136 - heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 2 (HO2S12) sensor range/performance condition
Explanation Open circuit or short circuit condition
Probable Cause
Poor electrical connection
check other service codes
Faulty Bank 1 Sensor 2.
Anyway, I thought it might be because we didn't reset ECU and some kind of calibration might be off in the system. So, I unplugged the battery in an attempt to let it discharge and reset ECU. When I connected the battery back up.... ALL THE FREAKIN LIGHTS ARE NOW ON THE DASH. Check engine... traction control.... tire pressure.... everything.
Golf TDI 2012
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The stereo will power off after 10mins or so (even if the ignition button is on ACC or Power position), and the radio screen shows a battery discharge warning (this goes on before the power gets cut off).
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I got the Battery discharge warning massage today, I was listening to xm in the car for about 5 minutes on engine set to ACC and the Battery discharge warning massage came on and tells me to run system while the engine is running. Am I not suppose to be on ACC if I just want to listen to music?
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I just brought home a shinny new 2012 Hyundai Sonata Limited with Nav and it's awesome! Just discovered something though...
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This is going to be annoying next time I go to the drive in that we like to frequent as we need to play the audio on the FM radio with the car turned off.
How I can turn this off or disable the sounds at least?
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I've noticed that the display shows the Battery Discharge warning while the vehicle is running. I notice it while reversing, because - well, I'm watching the image from the camera. The message goes away in a few seconds and the regular "look around you" advice appears. It doesn't happen every time nor does it follow a change in weather. Just random occurrences.
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A little over a week ago I had my battery go low and set off several brake warning lights on the dashboard. I have a very trusted mechanic and had him look it over. There were no issues whatsoever with the braking system and the lights simply occurred due to a drop in battery voltage. My question would be how to clear the lights. I have seen various people use something called a techstream and was wondering if this would be viable in my situation. If so what is the most updated version of the tech stream as well as a possible tutorial. Below for reference is a picture of the lights that were set off on the dashboard(circled). The dash isn't mine just one that I found but the four lights in question are the same.
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I bought a 2006 Prius with a diagnosed bad battery and tons of warning lights lit on the dash. Toyota had diagnosed a bad hybrid batt and ECU. (I have not replaced the ECU). The car was driving and running fine otherwise.
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I noticed today, coming to work, my "Brake" warning light is on, on my dash panel. I engaged and disengaged the parking/emergency brake, thinking maybe was stuck there, but the light did not go out.
Is this related to my parking brake or my 4 wheel brakes? I have 4500 miles on this car. It is an XLE, 4 cyl. First time something like this has occurred since purchasing in December.
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I have a mk4 golf gti vr6. For about the past month every few days when I shut off my car and then try to start it next time I get a very fast clicks. After I disconnect and reconnect the battery it starts up just fine. Yesterday after getting off the highway it shutoff when I came to a stop. Took the key out and before I disconnected the battery it started back up with a turn of the key. I'm guessing it's some kind of ECU issue because it starts up after I reconnect the battery?
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I just installed my HID kit in my 2010 MK6 and it looks amazing!!! The only thing wrong is my day time running lights are still on and I don't know how to disconnect them? I dont wanna break them just disable them.
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I narrowed my battery drain to the box on top of the battery. When I disconnect all three fuses and the 4th wire from inside the box my draw goes to 0 but when I connect any of those 4 it will go back up. Connecting all of them will not increase the draw any more but it seems all of them are connected in some way?
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I have a jetta that sat inside for 3 months. and when i went to start it it ran great but when i went to restart after shutting it off it wouldn't restart until I disconnected the battery for a few min and reconnected it , and that is when the check eng light came on the car runs great but having to disconnect the battery each time so I also took it to get the codes read and this is what i got po725, p1780, p1850, po605, po113, po102. I find these codes to be well to say it is a little unbelievable as the car runs fine and i had no trouble before i parked it for 3months. The car only has 58,000 miles on it ?
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I stored my car with a friend for a few months and of course he let it sit too long. He had to do a running start and now the dash lights are a penalty. I'm still out of town, but I am getting on a airplane right now to come home and be with my R again. He said the car was cutting of at stop lights, I'm sure he drove it cold.
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My car is eating up battery power: only when outside is cold, below 10 C,something very strange, in summer days there is no battery draining, my climate stays adjusted at 19 C, but now is very cold and I make it 25 C,and then it is the mystery: the battery is draining for 2-3 hours below 10V?
I made some tricks:
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-when the car is turned off while the climate is set to 18C(or below 24C) the battery drain is very small???
So does something turn on while the car is locked,or something is trying to keep any temperature inside? I double checked if AUX heating is off,and it is off,I don't have parking heater or anything. Another thing I notice is when I turn on the rear seats climatronic above 24C the voltmeter goes from 14V to 13V and stays there for a 5-10 min,if I turn off the rear seats climatronic or set it below 24V the voltmeter gets back to 14V?
Whats is happening with the car?
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Very occasionally and usually from a cold start I get a rapid discharge of the battery.
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2006 Prius with 130k miles. I'm thinking that my HV battery has slowly deteriorated to the point where it's causing drivability issues, and now needs to be replaced.
The main symptoms I'm experiencing are rapid charge/discharge according to the MFD and significant loss of power once the battery has discharged to one bar. I realize the latter is "normal," but the problem is that I'm seeing one bar frequently now. Hill climbs that my car used to do with no problem and would drain the SOC to 2-3 bars now cause the battery to drain to 1 bar about half-way up and then loss of speed from 65 mph to 45 mph by the time I reach the top. Descending hills, it's not unusual to see the SOC go from 2 bars to 7-8 bars within 30 seconds or so.
I'm not seeing any error lights, and my (cheap) code reader does not report any logged DTCs.
This seems to be a slow degradation of battery performance, rather than an outright failure. I first noticed that the battery would charge/discharge a little quicker than it had been at about 90k miles. At 99k (before the warranty ended) I took it into the dealer and they tested the HV battery. Block voltages ranged from 16.59 to 16.68 V and resistances ranged from 0.025 to 0.026 ohms. Based on this, they said that the battery was fine, and sent me on my way. Since then, the problem has just gotten worse and worse, though.
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About 20 minutes ago I started up the car and the screen indicated the main battery was pretty much empty. And hour before I had pulled into my driveway and the battery had indicated maybe 70%+. The car was off, nothing like headlights or anything I know of was left on.
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I had just picked my kid up from school, as I turn out of the parking lot my A/C stops blowing cool air, I check the A/C screen and it still says it's set on High with temp at 68. However, it is blowing very low with warm air. Seconds later the dash lights up with numerous warning lights. I'm on the highway and I'm able to gather speed, but each time I do I hear the engine revving like crazy. We only live a few miles from the school so I am able to make it home. Once home, I turn off the car and turn it back on. The only warning lights displayed now are the red triangle and the yellow check engine light. I turn the car off, pop the hood, I check the belt and it was fine. I checked the oil and it seemed fine. I check the coolant overflow and it was empty.
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This evening, long after sundown, I found myself stuck on an unmoving expressway with no sign of traffic starting up again (the radio reported a vehicle fire ahead, all lanes blocked). Time dragged on, and I started worrying about the possibility of the headlights draining the 12V battery , assuming that they do indeed run off the 12V battery. In a conventional car this wouldn't have been a problem because the idling engine would have maintained enough battery charge, but of course here the ICE wasn't running. So I turned off the power button to shut down the lights (it's a Canadian car, so there's no way of turning off the headlights with the power button on). That was safe in this particular situation because there were plenty of stopped vehicles behind me. It definitely would not have been safe if mine had been the last vehicle in the lineup.
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My car is an 05 and currently has 219,000 miles. Runs great. Only things I've replaced are the 12 volt battery and the rack and pinion. Replaced the rack because I was trying to drift in the snow and tried to beat the traction control. Needless to say, I lost and hit the curb. Jammed the gear in the left side of the rack. Replaced the rack with a $75 used one and no problems since.
My issue is this, even if my battery is at 6 bars when I first take off, my hybrid battery drains down to even as low as 1 bar. It only got down to 1 once but is hitting 2 regularly. After about 3-10 miles it is back to the regular charge rate. I also noticed the other day with the window down, there was a slight whirring sound, almost like a gear or wheel that is a gummed up and is being slowed down. It also felt like there was resistance, almost like the brake was dragging. After a few miles, as in less than 5, the noise was gone and the car was going along just fine. I've checked the emergency brake to see if it's dragging by applying it and releasing it several times. Does not appear to be the issue. Today I put it in neutral to see if that changed anything but it did like it always does and just coasted along fine with no resistance. My thought is the transmission. I'm wondering if the fluid it so old and broken down that maybe things are gumming up. Either way, I purchased the tranny fluid and will change that out. I know people will probably gasp but I have never changed it. Actually thought because it's a cvt and there is no dipstick to check it, that it doesn't need changed. After reading up yesterday I discovered I was mistaken.
I think that's about it. I'll edit it if I think of something more. Once the battery is back up to charge it accelerates and drives like normal. I do want the car to last so my daughter can use it when I buy the new Prius Prime.
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