Golf/GTI VI :: 2011 - Unable To Rev Beyond 4000 RPM In Neutral, Or In 1st With Clutch Pressed
Aug 27, 2011
I have a 2011 GTI 6MT, APR tuned. I am unable to rev beyond 4000 RPM in neutral, or in 1st with clutch pressed. Parking brake on/off doesn't matter either. I don't rev my engine at stop lights or anything stupid like that, I just found this out because a member on here suggested that I rev the engine up to test for an issue with something else, and I found this 4000 RPM limiter. Is this normal?
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So I drive a 2008 R32/U.S. spec and I was in neutral when I pressed the throttle and it would not rev over 4000 rpms and was wondering why??
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DSG tune was supposed to set launch control for 4200, 4300 or 4500 rpm launch but the gearbox will not go above 4000 rpm? My tuner has tried 3 different files (4100, 4500, 4600) on my 2009 S3 but the actual launch control rpm is still 4000.
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If I'm at part throttle and i press the clutch pedal in about 2-3 inches, leaving the clutch still fully engaged, i can feel a really rough vibration in the clutch pedal. it stops vibrating as soon as i let off the gas. and i'm only giving it a little bit of gas, mind you.
If I'm at idle, and i have the clutch depressed all the way and rev the engine, I can feel vibration in the clutch pedal. My 6-speed MK4 did not do this, not in the slightest. Is this normal for MK6 or do I have a problem?
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Going through the drive thru tonight and I heard a weird noise coming from the engine area. Get home and pull into the garage and here a flutter sound when my clutch pedal was pressed down, let go of the pedal no noise. While driving the car around clutch pressure seems fine and no slippage of any kind.
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So, I'm having this weird knocking noise on front left (drivers) side. It appears when I'm accelerating and stops immediately when i press clutch.. The noise gets stronger if i accelerate fast and gets faster, faster i go. Surprisingly the noise stops when i lift my car up and starts again at my drive height. Could it be driveshaft joints? And which one more likely? Outer maybe?
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I have a 2010 Prius and have been driving several for the past 7 years.Yesterday, I was driving on the Expressway at 60 mph and all of a sudden I was momentarily stuck at 60 as if I was in Cruise control which I wasn't. Gradually, I was unable to accelerate when I pressed down on the pedal, lost speed and cruised over to the side of the road as if I was out of gas which I wasn't. I shut the engine off, waited a minute and started up again. I continued on my journey without a problem. When I reached my destination I shut down the engine and re started 4 hrs later and drove home 120 miles without a problem. What is the cause of this and is it still under warranty. I have 50,000 miles on the vehicle. May I add, this is the first problem ever encountered.
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I just brought my gti in for the 20K oil change etc... I have noticed something weird... when I accelerate hard or have been driving for a while, and then shift into neutral or push in the clutch, the engine revs up to almost 2K, then back down to 1K once or twice, then finally settles to 700rpm's. It doesn't do it cold, or when I have the AC running.
I have no CEL's, and the dealer just said they ran a fault check, and it was clear. I do have an APR exhaust and a K&N intake (I think stage1 tune)... I asked about the PCV valve, and they said that would throw a code... They said they could do additional diagnostics out of warranty, since they think it has to be part of my aftermarket stuff.
I don't know if it's related, but if I really jump on it, in 5th gear or so, I can hear the car losing a little rpm's then around 4K just for a second, then it's goes back to normal... This only happened once or twice, so maybe it was just in my head...
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I came home last night and rolled into the driveway. With the car in neutral I took my foot off the clutch and the car stalled. I get in the car this morning to go to work, and it's still happening. I put it in reverse to see if it will drive.....and now it's stuck in reverse.
I can't get it into any other gear or neutral..........even when the car is off. I've unattached the linkage, and the shift knob moves freely.....so I don't think it's that. I found these old threads (one even mine)
[URL] ...
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So I'm lead to believe that the master/slave cylinder is acting up again. Also, how can I get it into neutral so I can at least get it towed and stop blocking my driveway?
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I have 3.8k miles on my GTI, and recently started noticing this clutch chatter when my car is at a stop in neutral with the clutch engaged (pedal out). It goes away when the clutch is disengaged (pedal in). I'm not sure if the noise has always been there or not, but now that I hear it, it's really bothering me.
It doesn't affect driveability, and seems to disappear once the car gets moving. And it's usually not too bad, BUT sometimes the clutch engages in such a way that I get the rattle like in the second video. This is really the noise that makes me nervous. Does this sound like typical clutch chatter or do I possibly have a bad DMF and/or throw out bearing?
Car was taken to dealer today 3/7/14 and a new throw out bearing was ordered. I inquired about the possibility of it being a flywheel issue, and was told they wouldn't know that until they get into the transmission. So for now, car is schedule to have the throw out bearing replaced under warranty next week.
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2012 Golf 2.5 5 speed.
To keep it short: car has been making this noise since day one. Only happens once things have warmed up (20-30 minute drive). Push the clutch in and the noise goes away. This video was taken with the phone placed on the driver side front wheel.
Trans makes a "marbles in a can" noise with clutch out in neutral and when pushed in everything gets quiet. It's driving me nuts and I just have to know if its normal. The dealer told me its "play in the bearings of the trans because they aren't engineered with the tightest tolerances"
Here's the link to the video.....
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Came out this morning and after letting the car warm up, went to shift into gear and was unable to get car to go from neutral to any of the gears. If I turn the car off, shift into any gear, and then turn the car on - then I can drive in the gear that I am currently in. As soon as I shift from any gear back into neutral, it will not let me shift into another gear while the motor is running. I have looked at some troubleshooting and even called a local mechanic who was baffled by the problem. I don't' know if it is the synchonizers, clutch control cable, or the clutch itself...
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I have a manual transmission and am having difficulties with my stick shifter. I had my car in neutral with my foot on the brake, and when I tried to shift into first gear I was unable to get it into gear. I wasn't able to get it in any other gear as well. Once the car was turned off though, I had no problems getting into gear. But when I turned the car on again, I wouldn't allow me to get anywhere but neutral. After about 10 minutes being off and not moving, the car shifted like normal again and I was able to drive it without a problem.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Rav 4 Sport with 160,000 miles. I take good care of it, as it does me. All of a sudden, while driving on CA freeway, it seemed to slip out of gear into neutral--no power when accelerator pressed to the floor. The power came back quickly, but this happened again the next day, with no apparent cause. I took it to my mechanic and, as I drove the surface streets, there was a knocking sound.
My mechanic said the initial problem was a transmission issue and referred me to another mechanic. And, he said the knocking may be a thrown rod(?). The second mechanic confirmed the first guy's transmission assessment (he's a transmission specialist, so of course, he'd see a transmission issue) and said he'd need to fix that before addressing the knocking. And, he said to fix the transmission (including replacing the computer that drives the tranny).
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On my 1996 Maxima (175k miles, maintained well, good shape, no CEL), whenever I brake beyond a "normal" stop but short of a panic stop, I then put my foot on the gas and it revs as though it's in neutral. It then catches first gear, and the car drives normally. As for the stopping conditions, I don't mean a normal "here comes a stop sign" comfortable stop, and I'm not stopping so hard that I activate the ABS. More like, I look up, see a stop sign 1 second too late, and have to stop slightly shorter than a comfortable stop. The ATF is fine, by the way. Any clue what this could be?
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I have a 2011 f150. I go to put it in reverse no problem after I'm done backing up and put it in drive. The truck does not go anywhere but it will race up to about 4000 rpm without even having my foot on the throttle. Put in park then back into drive same thing happens. Put it back into park turn the truck off start it again and no problems. It drives just fine. I've had it to the dealer they say it is not throwing any codes so there is nothing they can do about it.
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98 tracker with 5 speed manual transmission has new clutch pressure plate throwout bearing and shit cable. strictly mechanical clutch mechanism drive for about 30 minutes and clutch goes away and unable to shift gears. let it sit overnight will work until about 30 minutes of drive time when everything has a chance to heat up...
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My buddy has a 2000 1.8t 5 speed wagon, it got towed the other day and now it is having issues shifting. I doubt that it is related to the towing. If you start the car in neutral, you cant get it to shift into any gear with the clutch pressed. Even if you try to shift with the clutch not pressed, it physically wont go into gear, it wont even grind. it just wont go.
However, it goes into gear with the car off. Your an start the car in gear with the clutch pressed, and can drive as normal....until you need to shift. at which point, it does as described above. He had a shop tell him that the clutch is bad, but it does not slip. I was thinking perhaps the shift linkage, but I don't know a whole lot about these transmissions, I am only well acquainted with mk2/mk3 style 020's.
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Ive got a 2001 MKIV Golf GTI. Recently I've had some clutch problems, I kept returning to the car and finding the clutch on the floor. After a tow My mechanic managed to get it back after a lot of pumping and messing around, and told me It needed a Slave Cylinder. So that night after driving home (clutch wasn't feeling good) I came out and found the clutch on the floor again.
So I went out - got a new genuine slave cylinder and replaced it myself. But now I cant for the life of me bleed the clutch - I've bled brakes plenty of times but never a clutch. I am doing it manually, I've read online some guides.
1) Crack the bleeder & push pedal down... because its got that spring, it stays on the floor.
2) Close the bleeder, pull clutch up with hand...
Ive been doing this over and over and over, but nothing happens... fluid isn't even coming out of the bleeder. Im guessing this could be because the slave has no fluid in it and there is an Airlock?? I want to try to avoid getting another tow truck.
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Replaced a bad clutch on a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer. I have been unable to bleed the slave cylinder after replacing both it and the master cylinder. I suspect either the slave cylinder is bad, or I put the incorrect throwout bearing in when the clutch was replaced. The slave cylinder is located inside of the bell housing
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I have my suspicion about what is the culprit, and well, the likelihood of it contuing to work.
Occasionally when I am at a stop and try to shift into gear with the clutch depressed to the floor, it does not want to go into gear. So far, I have been able to wiggle the shifter around, try a few different gears then go back to first and it works. Also at a stoplight today, with the clutch depressed to the floor for a few minutes with the car in 1st, after about 3-5 minutes the car started to slowly creep forward.
What are your suspects on this one?
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