Golf/GTI VI :: 2011 - Turning DRLs Off
Dec 13, 2011
I have a 2011 GTi, and I'm sure this has been gone over many many times, but I need to be honest, with work and trade school and lack of a good smartphone I have no time to search this on vortex. I just want to know how to turn my DRLs off on my GTi, its the sunroof nav package with BI Xenons. I think I heard you need to use VAG COM to load some special code, and that's about all I heard. So where to get it to turn these off.
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I'd like to turn off my drl's.....getting new front bulbs and going to install some led's to use as drl's. Up to now, I've only read about using VAG-COM to turn off. I just came across a YouTube demo about turning off drl's by pulling out switch on dash, disconnecting switch from connector and bending down a prong inside the connector. Sounds and looks simple. I haven't seen this method written up on Vortex before....
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How to disable DRL on the 2011 Sonatas?
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I remember reading a post here a while back from member who had replaced almost all (if not all) of his lights with LEDs, but I can't find it now. I already replaced the interior lights and the rear license plate lights with LEDs. Now it's time to replace my front turn signals as one is very dim and sometimes doesn't work. I'm looking for info on the proper LED bulbs for it. I know the stock bulb is an 1157, but I'm looking for an LED that doesn't need a separate resistor installed. Also, I'd like to replace my stock DRL bulbs with LEDs.
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My mother has a 2012 sonata. She told me that her drl will shut off when she turns her headlights on. Is this normal or is something maybe wrong. She also mentioned that they will sometimes shut off at random while driving.
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Is there a way to run the LED DRL's while headlights are on? Vagcom code? euroswitch? Not really too sure just figured I would throw this out there.. Somewhere in the options on the MFD??
I think if your parking brake is engaged they are on but if its just headlights on they turn off. Also I'll just whore this pic of my R ....
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So, I've noticed over the past few days my '11 GTI w/ DSG isn't turning over as quick but when it does I feel as though my gas is delayed. For instance, if I push the accelerator down I feel like It does nothing and then suddenly kicks in when the pedal is more than halfway pressed. Also noticed by the same token if I keep it floored I go way into the redline before it shifts. Almost pushing the 7k rpm line. I'm thinking it's either my starter is going bad for the turn over portion but then I feel like it's something to do with spark plugs for the delayed response.
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So, just recently i had both of my DRLs burn out. They both burnt out at the same time which I thought was weird but I thought that it was because of how cold it was here that it may have happened that way. So, I bought new ones and replaced one side and went to check it, nothing. Took it back out, checked the connections and reinstalled it. Nothing again. I looked at the fuses but didn't notice any blown ones so I am stating to think it is a head light switch.
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New to the MK6 world and the halogens they have.. I am used to having Xenons... My question is there a way to run DRL's and fogs together?
I know there's a way to wire the city lights and fogs to run together, but I love the way the halogen DRLs look and i would like to run them together with the fogs. I do have a Euro switch.
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I'd like to run my DRL's and Fogs at the same time in auto mode. Currently if you have the headlights set to auto and turn on fogs it enables the regular headlights as well. Id like only the U shaped DRLs and the fogs.
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Took the R in the touchless car wash Monday night and immediately drove home and parked in my garage. I went in to eat and came back out into the garage about 2 hrs later and noticed my replica A6 DRLs were on. I noticed that when I shook the wiring they would flicker but stayed on. I took off all the electrical tape and noticed water had somehow made it's way into the relay. I blew air on the relay and the receptacle. I then greased up the relay prongs and plugged it back in and shook the wiring again and the lights still flickered and stayed on. I pulled the relay to keep the DRL off so they wouldn't kill my battery. Hopefully when I plug the relay back in tonight, all the moisture will have dried up and the DRLs will only light up on ignition as their supposed to.
My question is: How do I keep moisture from getting into the relay in the future? I thought it was very well taped up with electrical tape, but water still managed to make it to the relay. I was going to reluctantly wrap the works with Saran Wrap and tape up the ends but that's the kind of ghetto fix that I usually stay away from.
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My driver side running lights wont turn on. (fornt bulb, rear bulb) ?
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On the MKVI Golf, is there a way to disable the DRL logo in the dash without having the DRLs off? I don't mind the headlights turned on....but the logo in the dash bugs me.
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I have a 2003 Jetta. I would like to have my parking lights on all the time, controlled with ignition (without any headlights), & have my headlights only cone on when I turn the headlight switch. Is there an easy way to do it?
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So looking to replace the passenger side front LED fog light assembly as the one that's currently on the car has a bad seal or something and lets water in. I have a new LED assembly but I'm lost with how exactly I'm to get the new part in. I've searched for diagrams regarding the replacement of the part and found one diagram that said the front bumper had to be completely removed from the car but I find that a bit hard to believe... (Then again its euro so maybe it's not hard to believe). Can the lower intake grill on the passenger side not just be pulled out or something? 2012 Golf R MK6....
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Just picked up a 2011 VW Tiguan 2.0t ... Got back into town and ran her thru a touchless carwash. Got it home tonight and the radiator fan ran for over 45 minutes wide open after I turned off the car before I disconnected the battery. The battery cable is off now until morning. Wet sensor?
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I have a 2011 Sonata and have had trouble getting it started. A few days ago it kept turning but wouldn't start. I tried jumping it and nothing. Then it randomly turned on. I thought it was the battery and switched that out today but now it won't start at all. Sounds like it's trying to and then has a noise that keeps going for about 10 seconds after . I've seen other posts about issues with the 2.4L engines and am wondering if I'm having the same problem. I have a video for it here: [URL] .....
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2011 GLS 2.4L auto 50K
After many months of trouble free driving, the vehicle has stalled twice at low speed while making a sharp turn. Once turning right, once turning left. Once it was warmed up, and once it was cold. Starts right up again. The vehicle has had all current recalls/tsbs to date including the various steering items except the most recent EPS 143 notice that has no remedy yet.
I will be test driving it myself to see if I can replicate the issue. I am not seeing anything specific on the forums other than maybe the TPS.
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Have a 2011 Sonatas. Recently the interior lights won't turn off or dim and go off when the door closes.
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Noticed here lately that my 2011 Sonata LTD started making the thud noise when turning. Dealer says this is under the basic warranty but NHTSA states Power train. This was the service manager telling me this.
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I have a 2011 Sonata with a very annoying ignition key issue. Out of the blue after turning the car off the Ignition key does not come out. The car turns off after putting it in park and everything just fine but the key will not come out. I tried wiggling and driving the car around and everything for a while but no luck. So eventually after fussing with it enough i figured out taking the fuse for the entertainment system out (Radio/clock/side mirror control) i can get the key to work perfectly.
So for the last two days i have been able to make the car work without radio or anything and it works fine but i would want my radio back as well.
Unfortunately the car has 75k miles on it and the dealer wants $120 just to look into the problem and are quoting somewhere in the $3,000 range to fix the issue (they want to replace the whole assembly since they don't know what to do) which i think is BS reason to take my money.
So i know its not the fuse as i replaced it already and everything will work perfectly fine if i connect the fuse back in. every time i want to exit the car and take the key out i just have to take the fuse out manually and key comes out.
Not sure if this is related in anyway but i have been having an annoying AC issue where it will turn off by itself after 30-40 minutes of use or will simply blow hot air. Solution for this was to take turn AC off and back on which normally fixes it. My local Hyundai dealer has never been able to replicate this issue so they never fixed it under warranty while it was under warranty.
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