Golf/GTI VI :: 2011 - Tachometer Failure After GIAC Flashing
May 10, 2014
So today i went and got my GIAC stage 2 flash on my 2011 gti. Once everything was installed back into the car , i took it for a test drive and once i got into second gear i had my EPC and Check Engine light come on along with the tachometer dropping to 0 rpms. Went back to the shop and diagnosed a Cylinder 2 misfire. Ended up replacing the coil pack with a new one and that was fixed. As far as my tachometer, it was still on 0. Took the car for another ride with the guy who flashed it running Vag on the car and everything was working fine.
Ecu was reading the rpms. Went back to the shop and did a test on the tachometer and it works when fine. The cluster also has the staging feature when i turn the car on before i start and that works fine, just doesn't read rpms while the car is running. Everyone was stumbled at the shop and they said they haven't had this problem before. Just wanted to also note that i also unclipped the harness for the Soundaktor but I am not sure if that has an affect on the tachometer or the cluster itself.
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So, I've been throwing an overboost code pretty randomly. It doesn't throw a CEL but the car does go into limp mode until I restart it. It's happened around 10 times in the past 2 months, mostly under WOT around 4500-5K. I've ran some logs at WOT and nothing really stands out to me with my limited knowledge except for random misfires in all 4 cylinders. I bought the car back in October and it already had the tune so I'm not certain if it's the most updated file.
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I have a 99 Passat; 5-speed V6. My tachometer would go out intermittently and at the same time the oil and brake light would start flashing and the ABS light would come on solid. There would be no noticeable difference in performance. When the tachometer would come back on line the lights would go go. Now the tachometer appears to be down permanently and the dash lights above are in the same state as above. Still no noticable difference in performance. What may be wrong?
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When I drive normally using the pedal, I can see slight movements of the tachometer as the torque converter locks and unlocks (this is normal when lifting off the gas and pushing it again). However, I notice when my cruise is set that my tach doesn't move at all, it doesn't matter if I'm going downhill, uphill, or whatever. It stays frozen wherever it's at when I hit the "set" button. Maybe the torque converter stays locked when the cruise is set? This isn't a problem, it just seems odd to me.
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Just bought a 2011 GTI certified Preowned with 12k miles. drives perfect the first week I have it doesnt make a noise, like a brand new car.
I get in the car about an hour ago to go get my daughter some tylenol and when pulling out I feel the car almost like Die and then the CEL starts flashing and the car starts smoking horrible. no power at all so I limped back the 500 ft to my parking spot.
I am new to MKVI but had a MKV GLI previously. my guess would be coil packs but wasnt sure about the horrible smoking.
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Been trying to save my miles on my 2011 GLS because I'm right at 100k (99.2K to be exact) and had a feeling something would be going wrong soon. Already had short block replacement, both CV axles replaced, steering columns, seized calipers, transmission sensors, and other repairs all done under warranty work for this stinker.
Driving to work today hear a clunk as I am driving uphill, tachometer immediately goes to zero, engine begins violently shaking, and traction control light comes on for some reason. Had my OBD scanner already plugged in and it pulls P0336 code for a crankshaft position sensor. Fortunately was close enough to home so that I drove it back and took the train to work. Probably going to take it to dealership tonight. The clunk and violent idle leads me to believe its more than a sensor problem. Car has had issues shifting over past month, but was so sporadic and not able to ever be replicated. Would maybe have a hard shift once every 2 weeks. That's about it.
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I have a 2011 Corolla LE with the automatic transmission. When traveling at a constant highway speed (i.e. 60 mph), the tachometer will start jumping around. It will jump up than down by anywhere from 200 rpm to 1000 rpm. It only lasts a few seconds then returns to normal. The dealer is saying that is just the electronic controlled transmission selecting the correct gear. I have never heard of this in any other car.
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I have a 2011 Elantra Limited with 63k miles on it. My car started with having troubles starting after filling up with gas, then it moved to about once every 25 times I started my car, the tachometer wouldn't turn on, and the car would have poor drivability shifting gears. Now it has progressed to stalling at stop lights. It has only done it when the car is warm and I'm stopped at longer lights. Will just die, but can be restarted after a couple tries. However on restart, the tachometer doesn't work and again with poor shifting. I typically have to turn off the road and stop my car and start it again and it's fine.
I just had a new battery as well as new spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced. Car dealership cannot recreate problem so they say there is nothing they can do.
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I took my 2000 passat 1.8t to a couple of places and both say that my abs and brakes are fine even though there is a flashing light that says brake lights failure and abs light. The brake lights do work. Is there a way for me to clear the code?
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Well my 39000 mile run of zero faults ended with a intake manifold failure. The check engine light came on whilst on a Yosemite trip, I checked fluids, etc, car was driving ok, but when I reached my destination I noticed a rough idle. Next time I started it a couple of days later the check engine light was flashing, and it was a rougher idle, so I knew enough not to drive it.
The closest dealer fixed it (no cost to me) under the power-train warranty (nice customer care from Michaels Fresno plus they had the parts in stock).
I learned a couple of things being stranded:
1) Problems happen but they can be accurately diagnosed and fixed.
2) $150 coverage for towing on my insurance policy doesn't get you very far. But I wanted to take it to VW to simplify any warranty work and have it repaired quickly, so I paid quite a bit of overage.
3) Tow trucks don't carry a family of 4, so the logistics of getting a rental car to get my family home wasn't simple.
4) If you have to be stranded, Yosemite valley with the free shuttles, is a pleasant place to be.
5) If you need a reminder just how good a car the Tig is to drive, just try renting a Jeep Compass for few days...
Diags for the record:
GFF found 9 faults: P0170, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0507, P068A, P2015. Found arm for intake runner flap came apart causing vacuum leak that caused engine misfires.
Parts
1 x 06J-133-201-AS Manifold
4 x 06J-998-907-B Repair Kit
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The tachometer in my 2010 golf recently stopped working. it just sits at 0 RPM's no matter what. I'm not sure if it is a fuse or something else has gone wrong. I'm not even sure which fuse to replace to try and fix the problem.
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I just wanted to share my story here. Last week on a routine trip on I-5 warning lights started flashing indicating hybrid drive failure. The car automatically shifted into neutral and I was limping along down hill. Luckily I saw a downhill exit and had the foresight to turn off where to my horror I discovered that my brakes didn't work. So I had to coast to the bottom of the hill and again made a quick decision to turn into a slight uphill side street to force myself to a stop with the parking brake. At point the car completely died and I couldn't even shift into neutral to push it.
After towing it to AAA and avoiding a collision on I-5 (if I pulled into the shoulder without breaks I likely would have crashed into a retaining wall) and then not being smacked after I got it to a stop I was pretty shaken...I'm lucky to be alive.
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Had my .:R for 2 years now and just noticed other day. When you cruise in 2/3/4/5 gears about 3000 RPM and suddenly press accelerator 1/3 down RPM jump UP for a split second on tachometer. They go up by one segment (which is 200RPM) and then drop back down.
Now, DSG should not do that to my understanding as clutch pack is engaged! There should be no slip. Also, it is not a drive train shunt, as I kept the car in very slight acceleration.
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So today i was pulling into traffic from a driveway. As i merged in I noticed my Traction Control light flashing for like 3 seconds then it went off.
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For several months I would intermittently get a message saying "Bulb failure, Low beam". It would go off and not reappear for a few weeks and then it got to where the message would come on and after a few hours it would go off and then reappear a few days later. Since the time frame was getting shorter and shorter between message appearances I decided it needed to be looked at.
The Volvo dealer just replaced the light bulb. After about a week, the message reappeared.
Long story short, I had the right headlight ballast (headlight igniter) replaced and a new ($230.00) right side Xenon bulb replaced. Neither of these actions has corrected the problem, although the mechanic that did the work said he did a scan on all systems and everything in the car was in good shape. I left his shop and about 6 blocks down the street, the message reappeared.
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This car is turning out to be a huge disappointment. Bad battery right away, oil pressure switch, brake lamp switch, front driver seat guide rails broken and now premature shock failure.
I had taken the SF to get a tire plugged after vacation as I had picked up a nail. The car was a bit noise riding along the way home, but I just chalked it up to crap Manitoba roads. The tech who fixed my tire showed me the oil leaking from both front shocks.
Told me that the driver side was pretty much 100% pooched. 2011 with only 42,000 KMs. On top of the other things this car has needed, I am ready to trade it in for a truck. A truck will meet our needs much better.
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The other day in our 2001 Honda Accord sedan, 4cyl, 140k miles, we were driving and the wheel became, how do you say, less attached to the car than it used to be? The wheel and the car had a nasty break-up and we were caught right in the middle of it. (see pictures) We were driving down a straight road, going straight, and boom, the wheel fell off and the car landed on one of the suspension bits . We were doing 30 and did fine. But we had literally just exited the freeway, where we were doing 70, a minute or two before this happened. Further, there was no noise, no vibration before this happened. The car was acting quite normally.
We had it fixed at a Honda dealership. We were on the road and it set us back $1070 and a full day. But there you are. So the problem is fixed, and I asked the dealership people to please inspect the other ball joints.
But...now I'm paranoid every time I drive the car. And I want to check them for myself. I read about the jack the car up and try and shake the tire trick. Is that foolproof? Is there more I can do to make certain that all the remaining bits that are supposed to be holding the wheel on are not, in fact, about to break?
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My 2011 has just over 27K miles on it. On Saturday the Check Engine light came on. The next time I started the car, it cranked over for about 5 seconds before starting, which is unusual. Then multiple times Sunday and this morning, it seemed to take even longer to crank before starting. This morning, it barely would stay running. And there was a lot of hesitation driving down the road.
I scanned it with my OBD II scanner and got P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Low). I dropped it off at the dealer this morning and jut got a call that they are replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pump. But they had to special order it overnight and probably won't have it replaced for another day after that.
Is the high pressure fuel pump the device sticking out the top of the valve cover on the back, driver side of the valve cover, with the multiple fuel lines going into/out of it?
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We have a 2011 Dodge Caravan. There is a strange brake failure problem that only occurs once every 1-2 month. When the problem occurs, there is no resistance when we push the brake (the feeling is like pushing the gas pedal) and the car does not decelerate at all. We have to push the brake multiple times and we could hear the sound like pumping air. After that, the brake works normally again for another 1-2 months. Both my wife and I have experienced this failure multiple times so we are sure this is not the driver' fault.
We brought the car to Dodge dealer multiple times. The first and second time, they said that they could not find any problem. The third time, they replaced the master cylinder for brakes for about $900. One week later, the problem occurred again. This time, they said that the problem was hydraulic control unit and one door of the unit does not work properly. The repair cost will be another $700.
Do you think that this is really the root course of the problem? Is it worth to do another repair? Or we'd better just sell the car?
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Having problem with their Electronic Power Steering (EPS)? My new 2011 Sonata SE's EPS failed numerous times at ~500 miles. Failures all occurred shortly after starting the car when it had been sitting for a couple of hours. The EPS and ESC fail lights came on and I lost my power steering when I tried to make my first turn. The problem always cleared when I shut the car off and restarted. My dealer service department reset the computer in the steering column and noted that this is the first time they've had to work this sort of problem. Hopefully that fixed it for good...two days so far with no problems. Maybe a software glitch?
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What the heck? I have not heard of an over heated O2 sensor. I know they have an extra wire in them for a heater element but I have two temp codes indicating the failure and a permanent code as well.
I know its under warranty but what a weird failure. Overheating...Guess Ill be making that appointment at service earlier than I expected.
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