Golf/GTI VI :: 2011 TDI - Strange Fluctuations In Temp When Idling At A Stoplight
Jan 15, 2012
So it's been REALLY cold here in MA. for the first time this winter. I've noticed that once my engine warms up to temp (160), the needle drops back down to about 140-150 idling at a stoplight, and takes a while to get back up to temp. Maybe this is normal for the diesel? I've just never noticed this in any of my previous VW gassers. Coolant level is fine, engine runs fine, so maybe its just the brutal cold weather??
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Check engine and tcs light came on solid. Rough idling and rpm fluctuations while cruising. Brought it to toyota and they scanned it revealing a P2195 code: bank 1 air fuel sensor stuck lean. So what I'd like to know is; How long was the vehicle in the shop? What is involved in repairing this problem?
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Ntices a strange idling noise? At first i thought it was just something like the radiator fan but it's tied to the clutch pedal..when the clutch is depressed the noise gets more isolated and a little louder. Everyone else in my car doesn't notice it but to me it sounds like something is out of balance... car only has 6500 miles on it and has never been driven hard... 2010 Golf 2.5 5spd .....
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I have a 2 door 2009 Mini Cooper that has a weird intermittent problem. When I am idling -- like at a stoplight -- I hear a slight bump underneath the car. The sound is as if a mechanic has rolled under the car and sits up, banging his head on the undercarriage... every ten seconds... exactly. THE WEIRD THING, though, is that after I turn the car completely off, it will continue for roughly a minute and then finish off with 3 bumps. ba-dump-bump It's all very soft but quite distinct.
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Well, truck is throwing me for a new loop the day I pick it up from the body shop (crazy, right?). I started out driving it and had a blue haze - I figured it had some air left in the system from doing my injectors so I left it and it cleared up after about 20 miles. I noticed that my SES light came on while idling at a stoplight, but went off when I took off. Figured it was a fluke and kept on getting on.
Well, next light it does the same thing - idle the light is on, take off the light is off. Reading the code yields P1316 - so I pull over and running a buzz test to fetch the IDM codes. Guess what? No codes. All sounded fine, so this is where I got really confused as I'm getting huge mixed signals from this truck suddenly.
As I got to watching my gauges, I noticed that I was idling around 10.8 IPRDC and 530-560 ICP, and when I would get about 16-18 IPRDC the code would go away. Did a near-WOT run when getting on interstate as a test to see how it'd do, and saw IPRDC get up to 98% - the highest I have EVER seen it get on this truck (no idea if it is related or not). I have a log from moving around the lot that I will try and upload soon.
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I have a 2012 azera, and noticed this a/c issue I have had. Recently when driving, I have notice the a/c intermittently change speeds and blow faster when I am at a stoplight or slowing down.
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Been having another strange issue(2011 gti) but after searching it seems 50% of people say it's normal. The car starts to warm up and finally reaches dead center 190, then until the car is fully warmed up I notice the temp gauge will drop a bit sometimes go back up then down a little again until the car is fully warmed up then it's fine for the rest of the day. I think it may be normal but the dealer wants to replace the thermostat anyway which requires a ton of other parts to be moved. Looking for opinions if its just how it works and have never noticed before or is it maybe my thermostat beginning to stick??
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I have a code for iat sensor 1 circuit high. It's the only code I can pull. I replaced the sensor in the manifold and still no change. The truck revs up when started but kinda finds its idle rpm after a second and the idle fluctuates some when the truck is warmed up too. I have a snap on solus and all parameters seem to be good. Icp sensor is also new thinking it might be the cause. Other than that the truck runs perfect and doesn't miss a beat.
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I have a 98 Ford Explorer 4.0 v6 My temperature gauge is stuck in the middle whether the car is off/idling/driving. I am wondering whether this could possibly be an issue with my coolant temp sensor/sender, or wiring.. Or since its just stuck there, would it be the gears of the actual gauge..
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I just drove the GLI from pa to myrtle beach for vacation. On the way back I noticed the temp was steadily rising while idling at a red light then at a gas station. Coolant level is fine. Thermostat, water pump, thermostat, and both temp sensors were recently replaced in the last two months.
So I know none of those things are a variable. Both fans never come on. I tried turning on the ac to get them to come on. But nothing. I read as much as I could on forums to find a solution but none applied to my specific problem.
Car is completely stock besides p flow intake. Has 153000 miles I'm pretty sure everything involving fan is original.
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Engine coolant light on and dealer cannot detect a problem, yet temp goes up to red flag symbol after idling, using AC and driving over 60.... 2004 MB SLK 230 Kompressor overheating....
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We have a 2011 Dodge Caravan. There is a strange brake failure problem that only occurs once every 1-2 month. When the problem occurs, there is no resistance when we push the brake (the feeling is like pushing the gas pedal) and the car does not decelerate at all. We have to push the brake multiple times and we could hear the sound like pumping air. After that, the brake works normally again for another 1-2 months. Both my wife and I have experienced this failure multiple times so we are sure this is not the driver' fault.
We brought the car to Dodge dealer multiple times. The first and second time, they said that they could not find any problem. The third time, they replaced the master cylinder for brakes for about $900. One week later, the problem occurred again. This time, they said that the problem was hydraulic control unit and one door of the unit does not work properly. The repair cost will be another $700.
Do you think that this is really the root course of the problem? Is it worth to do another repair? Or we'd better just sell the car?
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2013 Sonata A/C stop cooling. Is it cover under warranty? Started making strange noise under dash.
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My 2011 6.7 has a strange tick when I accelerate once I speed up it goes away it happens in drive or reverse I only have 29000 on the truck it will tick one to three times and then stops I had new rear u joints put on and is still ticking and is driving me crazy u can only hear it with windows down ....
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Ok, so I'm getting the typical P2181 Cooling system performance. So i replaced my t-stat and ect sensor but no change. When i'm looking at my mvb's in 01 and 17 they're reading the same. I check my hose temp and both upper and lower are similar in heat. I can watch the temp rise in the mvb's till the fans kick on and the temp will drop.
Now, at start up it'll literally take about 9-12 min to warm up in this 20 degree weather. I was driving home tonight and got off I-5 and at the light with the heat on I watched the temp gauge drop from operating temp to almost the notch above cold, and I could feel the heat cool down coming out of the vents.
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So for a couple months now, my ride has been making some weird noises.
When I start the car up after anything longer than a couple hours of use, it sounds as if I have a piece of loose metal banging/moving around. I hear it sporadically on shifting through the gears, and when I'm at a stop.
Car has been in to the dealer three times, and I took the foreman on a test drive...of course it wouldn't make the sound at all.
I took a look under the hood today and noticed that the coolant level is low...filling it back up tomorrow. That got me thinking about the transmission fluid....I looked and looked, and can't find the transmission dipstick anywhere.
Any clue where I can find some way to check the level?
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My 2011 F-150 Super crew eb has started to have a knock that comes from under the dash in the radio area. It doesn't occur every time it's started. It is 3 or 4 knocks that sound like a plastic gear slipping, then it stops. I am thinking something in the vent/defrost door. Is it vacuum operated or electronic? Any thoughts?
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1994 f150 with 4.9L I6; 180k mi.
Parked vehicle last night after using it uneventfully for work the day before. Upon leaving the house at 11:30 AM, I noticed that I'd picked up a new mechanical noise. Nothing major; actually wasn't sure I heard anything at all.
As I drove to the store, I noticed it was idling slightly unsteady...much less so than a missing cylinder. I resolved to check the high-tension connectors when I got home for security. I glanced down at the gauges to check and see if my oil pressure was good; I then noticed coolant temp reading "high normal."
When I got out, I noticed a small pool of coolant forming. I looked at where the puddle was forming...the radiator hose had come off! (Actually separate from the radiator connector, as one might do if draining fluid without using the petcock.) I popped the hood: no unusual smells. Nothing seemed abnormally hot. Placing a finger against the head was uncomfortable, but not painful. Spit expectorated upon the head did not sizzle.
I then called my wife, explaining the situation, and walked back home 2 miles. We then took the spare car, bought antifreeze, and added it about an hour post-shutdown. Where the car was parked seemed wetter than the light drizzle allowed; daubing a finger in it and tasting gave a slight sweet taste.
I tend to check my fluid every so often (not every day, though) and coolant was verified as "full" as recently as 100 miles ago. (I don't make a habit of crawling underneath, though, so I couldn't tell you if hose had been slowly backing off or not.)
As to cause: is it plausible that this could happen without foul play? There have been a few vandalism incidents in the neighborhood; it's also possible that I [peeved] off a neighbor recently. I'm not about to go any further than fixing, though, unless there's really no other plausible explanation.
As to the mechanical questions: How much damage was done? Did I "catch it" in time? What is suggested as far as repairs/maintenance? (I was planning on doing a compression test, and keeping a close eye on fluid levels over the next 1,000 miles or so.) Engine sounds completely normal.
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So after this weekend's hurricane my 2011 f-250 started to making a noise when I accelerate. I don't know if water got in some where. But there's no MIL light coming on.
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The car would rev high to 3k rpms for around 3 seconds on start ups. After I did a timing belt job the car has been jumping 2k to 3.5k back down to 3k, etc sometimes settling at 1.5k. Each time it jumps it stays there for about three seconds. This mainly happens when I am stopped and foot off the throttle, but still does it when it drives, but it is not noticed as much since there is a load under the engine.
Couple of notes:
I made dam sure the timing was correct and belt teeth were installed properly, checked it about 10 times before buttoning everything up. Only thing I can think of is that the belt is too tight but I don't see that causing this problem.
I did clean the pcv valve and a few electrical connections which solved the problem short term, but has come back 3-4 weeks later.
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My sister was driving my '02 Corolla (120K miles) this morning when the RPM's started to fluctuate between 1500-2500 for a few seconds. Did it on the highway (60 mph) and then again on a city street (45 MPH). Then back to normal. Had a tune up etc less than 2 months ago.
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