Golf/GTI VI :: 2011 TDI DSG Occasionally Will Surge When Cold At Parking Lot Speeds
Apr 20, 2013
my (new to me ) 2011 TDI DSG occasionally will surge when cold at parking lot speeds. You all know what im talking about. Ive found a handful of updates and TSBs that deal with it, but they said they cant apply unless they can replicate it. I left it over night so they can drive it cold and of course, they cant reproduce. I am gonna go back in 4-5hrs after it cools fully again and ill drive him this time. Annoying nonetheless.
Couple other questions: The car just got a 30k 4 mos ago. From prior records, the previous owner had the fuel filter changed at 20k in June 2012, then the 30k svc was done in Jan 2013. Should I be proactive and change the fuel filter now before the 40k or just wait it out?
Should I press for any other maintenance, etc to be done (car is at 35,900 miles today)...?
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So I have the warranty on my car still and I've brought my R into the dealership to have it checked out. They want to do more "diagnostic" work on it since they're not sure what's wrong with it.
The Issue: When coming to a stop, the RPMS will occasionally surge up to 1500ish RPMS, before slowly dropping down to the idle 800ish.
CEL has come on twice in the past month after a day or so of this happening (first time, CEL went away on it's own after 3-4 days, 2nd time, I had the code cleared at the dealership).
Code: P0507 - Idle Air Control RPM Higher Than Expected
I'm thinking it's the PCV valve failing, or in the process of it. The dealership says they think it's an air leak somewhere in the intake system...which would make sense to me if it was a static, constant problem, but it's not. Therefore, through deductive reasoning, I believe it to be a moving part or a valve or some sort that is failing to operate properly.
The car is 100% stock. I have to take it back into the dealership in a couple of days, and I would like to suggest they check the PCV valve if that is the general consensus on here rather than waste more time.
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2011 F-150, 5.0L, SuperCab. I usually only report odd things about my vehicles only after my wife says something. Didn't think about it really until she complained, keep in mind she drives a Subaru with a "CVT" transmission that doesn't shift.
What I noticed is that when driving at low speeds, say parking lot speeds my F-150 seems to slams into 2nd gear. when it does this it feels like you slightly got shoved in the back. Is this normal, I know it's a truck and there is a lot of rotating mass and torque going on here. My previous truck a 2008 Chevrolet 2500 HD, 6.0L felt similar at low, parking lot speeds, it also had a 6-speed trans like this Ford. Just wondering if this is normal for this beast.
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Ok, to start off. I have a 2010 2.0T CCTA with 23k miles. I recently purchased a HPA Intake Manifold and installed it myself. I was told by HPA that they offer a tune specifically for their manifold. I however, purchase the Maestro suite by Eurodyne with the intention on getting it all tuned myself. I was able to code out the CEL for the flappers no problem. Now my only issue is the cold starts. During the cold start cycle I get misfires and air surge. I ran the fault reader and got the P0300-P0304 (Misfire faults). Obvious thing to check were plugs and packs. So I changed them. No change.
I read in a bunch of threads that these faults as well as air surge are a sign of the PCV Valve. I have a catch can kit on order so I will see if that wotrks. My guess is no. Another thing I think it could be is the N75 valve however, this issue only occurs during the cold start cycle. After the cold start cycle is done I have no issues what so ever. So I ruled out the N75 valve. If it was bad, then it would be bad regardless of how cold/warm the engine was. I have attached a video of the Cold Start.
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I bought a 2011 VW golf TDI back in August. I current have 12,000 miles. I got my 10k oil change at the beginning of Dec. I ask them to look at the injector recall as well. Everything seem good so far. Until today..... I was out with my girl today getting the rest of our Xmas shopping done. As we were waiting for the light to change the car started surging. Not like a sensor surging but a little surging. I thought it was doing just its thing and it would stop. We pulled in to where we shop and did our thing and headed back out.
Again it started to surge. 5 mins later we pulled into our driveway and started to smell a bad odor coming from the engine compartment. Really bad that she could smell it from inside her side of the car. I can't describe the smell. Maybe electrical not sure. We let it cool down and now I'm about to check out. I have to go to work tomorrow and I'm not if I should drive it or not. I drive 158 miles a day for work.
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So my car has been at the dealer this week for the 4th day. I have a whining/whirring noise from the rear of the car at cruising speeds of 70mph that goes away with a little throttle and comes back when coasting or at enough throttle to maintain speed. Car must be warmed up to hear it. I know this has been documented on the forum a few times with some getting "it is normal" responses while other have had the diff replaced. They are still diagnosing this but I am not expecting much. I did have the 30k service about 5k miles ago.
Second issue is a creaking noise from steering when stopped or a parking lot speeds. Mostly heard in quarter turns of the wheel. Sounds like it is coming from the column but not really audible from outside. This one the dealer says is normal. Manager says a new MKVII GYI does the same. I haven't verified this yet.
Last, my RNS-315 intermittently does crazy things with my iPhone 6 while listening to music through Bluetooth: Sometimes it will freeze up but I can change to radio and sometimes it will play music through a phone call. Meaning the phone icon is up as if I were on a call with music playing but I can't hang up! I think they are ordering a new head unit.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe. Has about 65k miles on it and has regular maintenance and tune ups when needed. It is cared for. The last tune up was about 2k miles ago. Spark plug change, oil change, filters, etc.
I have noticed lately that when the car is moving at idle speeds, it will surge about 200 rpms. It does not happen when the breaks are on or stopped or in park, or moving at higher speeds. It only does it while moving and with no acceleration. It happens in Drive and Reverse.
I live in the city of Lima Peru so a 4x4 is useful but it also requires some tight parking but when it starts to surge, it is a huge pain.
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Air conditioner was acting weird. (It doesn't blow cold air when the car stops at the lights or in the parking lots. But it works great while driving). Then I went to dealer. And they scan my computer. And they said we need to change Aux Fan control unit and also one of the fan .I ordered OEM Aux Fan Control Unit . And I installed it. I connected Vagcom and cleared the Fault code but It still acts same. I checked the fans. They both works fine to me. They run 10 seconds and stops. So I didn't get this part. How the heck this AC works fine while I am driving but it doesn't work when I stop ?
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How do you remove the city or parking light bulb in the 2011 GTI, without the HID projector headlights? I have the regular halogen set-up...I want to change them to a super white bulb to match my Xenesis bulbs.
I know its the 194 bulb, I just can't seem to pull it free...
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I have a 97 F150 4.2l auto 4x4. The truck seems to surge or hesitate at pretty much all speeds. I have had the truck on fords so-called super "sbds" computer and they found nothing. I am taking it tuesday to have the o'2 sensors and CAT. Convertors checked at a local parts/service store. Also found out today that my speedometer is 5 mph to slow (doing 65 but speedo only registers 60).
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I've had my 2010 Prius II for less than a month and am not particularly happy with it. I've experienced a slight surge forward when braking on uneven pavement at low speeds at least 4-5 times in 900 miles. This isn't something I can duplicate on demand. When I took it in to the dealer after the first time and asked if the ABS fix had been made to it, they told me my car wasn't part of the "campaign" (aka recall) because it was manufactured in March and the ABS problem had been solved by then. However, it sounds exactly like the problem people were discussing in Jan/Feb.
Once when I put it in reverse in a parking lot it lurched backward (my foot was on the brake) suddenly -- not far, but it was an alarming sensation. It also has a high pitched, barely audible whine when moving (can't hear it if I put on the radio). The mechanic said that was the normal sound of the battery, but I don't remember it from other cars I test drove. Is it normal?
I'm keeping an eye on the dome lights every time I park because I found them on one night (they'd probably never shut off after I parked the car during daylight hours) -- it could have been that the light was switched to "on" rather than "door," but now I'm paranoid and constantly check to make sure they're off when they're supposed to be, for fear of wearing down that little 12 v battery. Not fun.
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my 1990 Nissan 300zx with 136,000 miles often surges at highway speeds for several seconds then drops back down to normal. the surge is usually 1000 rpm. does not happen if not in overdrive, and will not happen unless having been driving for 15 minutes or so. also seems to occur more on hot days (80 degree +) than on cool days. mechanic has looked at this several times but not yet able to determine why.
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My parking brake light goes on occasionally. It is the electric park brake. If I engage the brake I can hear the brake engage. Is this a sensor issue or do I just need new rear pads?
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I have a 1999 F350 200,000 miles. Now getting an intermittent engine light. Still runs well, although once or twice I felt a momentary surge at highway speeds. The light is on intermittently about 1/2 time. I read the codes and the following codes, as in the thread title, came up:
P0280 - ICP circuit out of range - low
P0113 - intake air temp sensor circuit - high input
P0470 - Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit malfunction
P0478 - Exhaust pressure control valve - high input
What would make these all code at the same time? Would these not make a noticeable problem driving? And how do I resolve these?
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I've been driving my wife's sonata to work this week and notice as I start to slow down at around 20MPH the car almost surges a little bit. Maybe I am not diagnosing it correctly but it's almost like it's downshifting rough.
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I have installed Precision premium LED parking lights (which are the little bulbs right above the headlights) in the place of the standard bulbs which from the factory are 194's. The LED lights occasionally turn off individually or sometimes just one side will go out, but if I turn my lights off and on again they both come back on. Why this is happening or any solutions to fix it? Is it the Bulbs or what because I thought LED draws less power than a standard bulb?
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I have a 2003 silverado with a 4.8 engine. i bought the truck in the summer of 2010. no problems in the winter of 2010. ran great all year in 2011, then my block heater shorted out in the winter of 2011, so i wasn't able to plug the truck in.
We get some cold nights up her in alberta, but anything below -10c the truck would idle surge and stall, would do this about 4 times in a row then it would just surge a few times but stay running.
I had a buddy that's a gm drive ability tech take the truck and do a tone of updates for the throttle body and to correct idle surge and some other drive ability related stuff. i cleaned the maf, map and tps as well as the throttle plates. replaced plugs, wires, air filter and fuel filter. all this and it was still doing it, but it had to be really cold to stall.
wasn't able to replace the block heater till this summer. but now that its getting colder and dropping below -10c at night the truck is starting to idle surge when i start it up in the morning.
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My 2009 with the 3.3 motor will rev up when cold drop to a low idle then surge up again. It will do this until it is warm even when in drive. It never did this before only in the winter it would start at fast idle for a minute then drop to normal idle. There are no codes or lights, what would cause this?
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I had some issues over the past couple of days with my 2009 Corolla EPS. It would occasionally go off, after all the indicator lights would flash momentarily. This only happens at low speeds, under 10 mph, and as soon as I got it up to speed the power steering would come back on. (note just about 140,000 miles)
I took my car into the dealer and he told me my battery needed to be replaced, its the original, and my rear hub and bearing assembly is corroded and there is electrical damage back there.
Did my first repair this summer, the alternator and water pump. But I didn't think the rear hub and bearing would have electrical connections or sensors effecting the EPS. I'm sure there is rust, but would that cause EPS issues? Could there be electrical damage? I also tested my battery yesterday and got 12.5 - 12.6 V with if off and 13.6 -13.7 on, but my battery is old.
I am going to pick it up from the dealer and just try changing the battery first. The total repair they suggested would cost $1875.00, which is crazy to me? Could there be a bigger issue though, and could the EPS just cut out on me while I'm on the highway or something?
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Have this problem where Santa Fe when coasting in a parking lot or driving slowly on the road, that their is a bit of a slam into second gear in the auto transmission?
Reason I am asking this is that I have this problem and own a 2013 KIA Sorento, but understand the Santa Fe V6 shares the same motor and tranny. I also read that one long term test of the Santa Fe on the web had this very same problem, but in the end after happening several times, stopped happening.
After reading much info, I ordered a Transmission Temp Sensor as this seemed to work on some cars, but it's really a hit or miss thing.
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I have a 2002 F150 5.4 2 valve. only when the engine is cold, everyone once in a while the engine will surge up and down about 2-300 RPMs for about 10 seconds. also right when I put it in drive it will surge. I was thinking about pulling off the trottle body and cleaning it.
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