Golf/GTI VI :: 2011 - Selective Brakes Intermittently Engaging When Grip Is Adequate
Jan 18, 2016
2011 GTI (65k miles). Selective brakes intermittently engaging when grip is adequate. Only happens at speed (>50 mph) when turning, most often with change in pitch (uphill/downhill). Traction light flashes. Happens when ESP on or off, wet or dry. Plenty of tread on (snow) tires. Mild bearing noise has persisted for >20k miles. Two dealers and one third-party shop couldn't find anything wrong, including with bearings. No stored faults.
My suspicion: slow (non-critical) bearing failure causing bad ABS sensor signal/fault, causing ABS/ESP engagement, especially with change in pitch. Related but simpler: ABS sensor failure or bad connection. Pulling fuses?
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I've relocated back to Texas, and I've noticed since the roads here are much older than the streets in Vegas, if I'm braking while going over a bump in the road my brakes seem to slip and re-grip while coming to a stop. It doesn't happen every day but it happens enough to make my heart skip a beat and think I'm about to die
I do plan on taking this to the dealership because it is pretty big problem, I have a 2013 Limited Elantra
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I have had this happen the last couple times I use my car in the cold. It has been around 25-30 F and when I pull out of my driveway the first time/maybe second time I touch the brakes it forcefully stops and feels as though only the front brakes are engaging. As I drive the car that trip it has yet to happen and the brakes preform normally. I am not used to disk brakes and I am thinking it is maybe that? The only other thing I could think of is that the brakes need to warm up a bit and pressing them still cold illicit that jerked response. I have read through a number of threads on brakes and I cannot seem to find this happening.
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I was going to replace rotors and pads. found the calipers seized. took them apart, cleaned and regreased. Pads were fine. Problem is that both front brakes don't grip rotor. Back brakes work fine...
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So, got the 20 K miles service done last month on my 2012 Passat.
Recently I noticed that when I press the brake pedal to slow down, it seems to work fine. The brakes "catch" the rotors, there is a clear "grip" to the rotors and the car responds pretty fast to start slowing down. However, when I did a brake check to stop the car, I notice that when I press the brakes hard, they don't "grip" the rotors as hard as I would expect past that initial grip instance. Seems like their grip is not "catching" the rotors. As a comparison, my other car (6-cy, disc brakes front and rear) does maintain that grip. Am I missing something in this? Is the behaviour of the Passat's brakes expected?
How often does VW do break flushed based on their service schedule?
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I replaced my rear pads on Sunday and the car drives and brakes great. This morning I noticed when I backed into my parking spot at work that the brakes were engaging to the point where I was on a small incline and the car didn't roll at all when I let off the brake pedal.
This was my first time doing the rear pads on my MKVI and my first time doing brakes on a VW. Is there some extra step required that I'm missing? I know the piston was a PITA, definitely not used to having to turn a piston while compressing.
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My f150 steering appears to be not as smooth as when originally purchased. Only 50k miles. Typically driving at higher speeds and making slight correction turns it appears to bind just slightly then when it does move the truck tends to over steer.
This is an intermittent issue and can be hard to replicate. Best noticeable at highway speeds as the change occurs more quickly. Doesn't show up once you into a turn but instead most noticeable when going from straight to slight turns. No aftermarket changes since new. Happens with or without pulling loads. Again from center of steering position.
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Had an intermittent problem with my Cruise Control engaging. The CC light would come on when the CC on/off button was pressed.
When the CC would engage the "set" light would come on and the speed would hold. On occasion the CC would not engage.
I looked are reread the owners manual.....NOTHING! I was double checking to make sure there was nothing different with the hybrid. (I have owned Toyota for a very long time...since 88').
Since the Hybrid is new to me, "shifting" is a little bit different. There is a "B" on the shifter which is mentioned for "downshifting". There is no mention that once you are done with downshifting that you must shift back to "D" for normal operation. The only mention is not to run in "B" for an extended amount of time.
So, when you are in the "B" position, the CC with disengage.
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My wife's 2002 Toyota Echo with 205,000 original owner miles on it has a problem where the AC fan does not blow out adequate air at highway speeds. When you put the selector switch to get the maximum airflow and have the fan on high speed, you can HEAR it blowing out but the air coming out of the vents is minimal. It's hot in FL but the car gets excellent mileage so we take it in lieu of our 2008 Tundra.
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I have an '05 Pathfinder w/ 93k miles. Recently noticed a uneven feel in the power steering, most noticeable at slower (less than 30mph) speeds. Feels like the power steering pump is intermittently engaging/disengaging. As I turn the steering wheel I feel random "tight" or "hard" spots in the steering. Similar to what you would feel if the wheel was against a curb and you were trying to turn into it. Doesn't make any appreciable noise, but can just feel it in the steering wheel.Checked power steering fluid, no issue. Replaced power steering pump, had no effect. Power-flushed the power steering system, had no effect.Oh - and my wife says she hasn't hit any large rocks, logs, or potholes recently!
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I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
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So I took my car in last Tues (Jan 15) to get an oil change. I mentioned that whenever I let off the gas and let the car decelerate without engaging the brakes I hear an odd noise. The noise is more pronounced at lower gears, but there were no special conditions that I wouldn't hear it. After a couple of hours, they tell me that my catalytic converter needs to be replaced, something about it being loose.
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The brakes on my 2007 LaCrosse do not feel like they are engaging when I am reversing and the car is cold (first thing in the morning or first thing after work). The pedal feels very stiff/hard and the car doesn't feel like the brakes are stopping it. Every time I apply the brakes after that first time, they behave fine. I had the front brakes repaired/replaced but the problem persists.
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I have a 1984 Ford F150, has about 110,000 miles on it, been a outstanding vehicle. Recently, after I drive if for about 15 minutes, the vehicle feels like it's dragging something, like the brakes are slowing and steadily engaging without depressing them. And, along with this, a chemical odor is present. And if it is the master cylinder, does it make sense to repair considering the age of the vehicle and worth?
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I've noticed an intermittent clunk which occurs when engaging the hydraulics brakes during reverse maneuvers. It happens with anything from very light to very heavy brake force and typically will happen before driving very far (backing out of driveway, out of parking spot, etc) but does not happen after driving (backing INTO driveway or parking spot). This has been occurring for a while now with no other symptoms (other than some shudder during take off which I attribute to a sloppy transmission bushing).
Front brakes were in great shape when I r&r them a while back to turn the rotors, didn't pull the rears apart but they look good, and I don't have any brake vibrations or issues when moving forward. I can't rule out a driveline clunk or suspension clunk either but the u-joints don't have any slop in them and no squirrely handling issues either.
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I recently had my wheel hub and bearing replaced. The mechanic said I might hear a little noise with the brakes but they'd work. Turns out that noise is the Anti-lock braking system engaging every time I use the brakes. It happens when the car speed gets low, maybe 5-15 mph. Also, if I'm driving slow in a parking lot or something, and let off the gas, that change in speed sets the ABS system on too, without my foot being on the brake pedal.
I've also noticed sometimes when the weather is very cold, the ABS light will go on and the ABS brakes won't work; just regular brakes. Is this something that I'd be able to solve at home? Could I possibly bleed the brake lines to check for any air ( although braking seems fine ) , busted fuse for the system, anything else to check before asking the mechanic?
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I took my car in to get this checked out, but they say they can't hear it.
Sometimes when I turn my car on right after I turn it on, there's a loud humming sound like a compressor or something is kicking on and it's not fully engaging. And it only makes the sound for maybe 3-5 secs. Sometimes it won't happen when I turn the car on, but when I'm driving and I let off the gas and go to touch the brakes, it'll start.
The best I can describe it is a 'hum'...but it's loud, and I can feel it as if it's near the gas pedal right behind the firewall.
Dealer thought maybe it was the ABS switch testing itself..but they could never reproduce....I got in after they replaced my rims and checked it...and it did it 4 times when I started it, then turned it off. He came out to check, and it was almost as if you couldnt hear it outside of the car.
So, what the sound might be...I can't reproduce it anytime I'm there. Figures...... but I hear it almost daily. He put some foam tape on the firewall behind the gas lines saying the 'pulsing' from them might be doing it...but it did it again this morning.
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Here's my problem, when I'm on a hill and I engage first and let go of the clutch the car revs but the clutch doesn't grip tight. It's slow to engage but during regular driving my clutch is fine. My only problem is on hills.
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Just got my ark grip exhaust and noticed it being a little too loud in the cabin. I thought they were suppose to be pretty quiet inside...
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I find that the Rubber stock ones are not grippy enough. I have used the turner motorsport ones on my bmw but not sure if they will retro-fit on my 337.
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I am trying to change spark plugs and wires on my 2001 Impala with a 3.8 liter. I was able to get the boots off of the front plugs OK but I am having trouble getting a good grip on the rear ones. It seems like they have glued themselves to the plugs. Removing the boots?
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