over the past two weeks my 2011 GTI seems to have gotten a bit louder and has a low frequency rumble when on the lower end of the gears (DSG). Any thoughts on this? From the exterior the car doesnt seem louder to me at all. I have a stage 1 APR and everything else stock
Maybe I am going nuts but it is bugging me!
I have an 03 GTI, and recently the engine has been very loud at speeds over 25mph. There isn't any rattling, ticking or chugging sounds. It just sounds like my rpm is at 7000, when it's actually 2000.
I'll try to upload a video tonight of driving around.
Sound shown in video. This is when vehicle is idle, as rpm's change the sound becomes more frequent. Check engine came on about a week or two ago, not sure if its related (haven't gotten the chance to get it read yet).
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I have a 98 ford explorer just changed the alternator and now its running rough also it sounds louder than normal from the muffler. I am clueless, what the problem can be?
View 7 RepliesI took my car to the car wash and they seemed to take longer to vacuum/wash it and while driving it away, I noticed something was off. It seems like the engine is louder than normal. Before when starting the car, it would take 30 seconds to a minute before the battery/engine would come on. Then while accelerating to about 25-35 mph, then the engine would come into gear. When going on the freeway, if accelerating at a quick speed it would sound really loud. Now, it seems like instead of silent, quiet, a little louder, louder and loudest - it's moved to the next level. When starting the car, the engine starts right away and when driving away (at less than 25 mph), the engine sound like I am on the freeway and when I'm on the freeway it sound like I'm trying to gun the engine. I don't know what it could be.
View 1 RepliesThis being the second of no doubt numerous questions re the 1989 Dodge B250 camper I just bought for a summer roadtrip. Engine is the 318 V8 with 120k miles. Tranny was rebuilt in '99 at about 60k.
Problem: beginning about 40 mph, and growing increasingly severe with speed, is a low-frequency rumble/vibration, probably in the 20 Hertz range. Significant enough that I didn't want to drive home faster than 50-55 mph. Could feel the whole vehicle vibrating, through the drivers seat, NOT through the steering wheel or pedals. Definitely not the engine, because as soon as I let off on the gas, the rumble/ vibe disappears. Get back on the gas and it returns full force. Definitely a drivetrain problem, only under load, that disappears when load it removed. My best guess is it felt something like I've heard described as a bad U-joint, something I've never experienced in person. The tranny shifts fine and doesn't feel like it's the problem, unless maybe it's something to do with the torque converter at highway speeds?
I'm taking it into the shop next week for diagnosis and repair, but I'd be interested to know in advance what the range of possible causes might be. Will report back after diagnosis with bonus points for correct guesses!
PS, correct me if I'm wrong, but when I pulledoff the highway to check underneath, it looked like this van has 2 U-joints. Is that correct? The van has a rear body addition for the camper bathroom.
Also, the van has been sitting almost unused for almost 2 years, except for an occasional run around the block to keep thr blood flowing. Would that lack of use perhaps. contribute to a U-joint seizing up?
This is my 2011 2.4L Hyundai Sonata with around 78,000 miles(no warranty). For the past two days car wasn't accelerating as it used to and all of a sudden today it started to produce hammering sound. Sounds gets loud with speed. Gears are switching like normal. There is a warning signal also that is attached in the picture below.
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I want to know where is the sound coming from? Should i fill any oil? If so what brand and where is the nozzle located.
I have a 2011 GTI with about 30k miles on it.... A couple thousand miles/couple months ago I hit a pothole on the highway.... it was a very sharp impact... the sidewall of the tire blistered and the rim was bent as well.... I got new tires and the rim fixed but it still feels like there is something wrong
During the 30k mile service at the dealer I brought it up and they balanced the wheels but didn't see anything wrong... I've had it balanced/aligned a few times since but it doesn't correct the issue... neither the tire shop nor the dealer was able to see anything blatantly wrong
It feels like something is "loose" and the car vibrates mildly at a high frequency... not just in the steering wheel... the vibration is mostly noticeably at higher speeds but the "looseness" can be felt at just about any speed...
At this point I've pretty much ruled out balance and alignment so what else could it be? Wheel bearing? Control arm bushing? Tie rod? Bent Axle? Steering collar?
Its been few month hearing this noise from my r32. Car has 54k miles currently.
I hear rumble? sound when I accelerate going uphill. It seems like coming from front side and only sounds 1-2sec.
In my 2007 Sonata, I hit a poorly placed high manhole cover in a dip in the road, in the dark, going 30MPH, whacked it good before I could adjust...
I then pulled the car over, it seemed to go dead, then the car did crank back up, the engine sounded much louder, like a loud rev/hum, not quiet like usual.
I next drove a mile to a c-store, transmission seemed OK, no leaks, did see a check engine light briefly, but it disappeared. Car cranked OK, headed home, same sound right at cranking and at moderate speed.
Finally, I jacked the car up on the front left, from research appears that the plastic engine shields got smacked good along the front and near the right tire and bent back quite a bit on the left side. There seems to be no other structural damage that my untrained eye could see, just one indention you'll see in a couple of the photos that I think is part of the car design at that spot.
Again, no leaks, no smoke, no caution lights of any kind now.
Photos are attached...
My Hyundai's engine now sounds like a Mustang! Hoping it's just the engine noise from these plastic covers now being bent/destroyed in some spots, exposing the engine and the typical noise you'd hear without them...
Started up my rig yesterday and heard a very strange screechy sound that got louder when I rev'ed the engine. After a minute or two it went away. Same sound this morning and whenever the truck sits for more than an hour. Sounds like a turbo problem and is coming from that area under the hood..?
View 11 RepliesCar makes louder than normal regenerative braking (Hybrid Sound). Seems normal when braking at high speeds... then when the speed drops below 30mph the sound is noticeable louder. See Video for example sounds while braking (17, 35 and 50 seconds into the video are most notable).
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Car drives normal other than the regenerative braking sound... Car was involved in a front end accident. Damages were repaired and seem minor. Front Bumper cover, hood, Radiator, Fans, RF Fender. Front cross member and other frame areas look untouched.
I cant recall if these sounds were there when i first bought the car, probably because i have the radio on most times. I think the buzzing sounds were present in the last month at least.
After i start up my car and even after idling for a while, i hear a buzzing sound coming from the engine. It gets louder when I accelerate. When I let go of the gas, the buzzing sound lags for a few seconds and then quiets down a little bit, but still can hear it in the background.
I lifted the hood up to listen more closely. I am not totally sure, but i think i can also hear a faint hissing sound ( sounds like leaking air?). I cant pinpoint where it is, but its around the engine.
I also notice that when I am idle, the MPG number in the dashboard is dropping fairly quickly. Like 0.1 mpg every 20 seconds. This is new and started today. I last drove it 4 days ago and didn't notice it happening then and i watch the mpg very closely every time i drive. Could there possibly be some gas leak?
I have a 2003 GMC Envoy with 76000 miles on it. I heard a louder exhaust noise than normal when I start the truck in cold weather. I had it checked and was told that the exhaust system was OK but that the noise was because the motor mounts needed replacing. I have never heard of this before. Before I spend this money I wanted to see what your reply was to this question. Is it common for motor mounts to have to be replaced on this type vehicle with this mileage and age?
View 2 RepliesI recently noticed louder than normal road noise coming from he front end of my SUV, which is right at 150K miles. I thought it was bad tires; both front ones had uneven wear. Got new ones and the noise is still there, loudest at 35-45 mph. The tire guys said I need new tie rod ends. From what little I know about those, they don't make the kind of noise I'm getting, but what do I know. I do know they are safety hazard and plan to get them fixed pronto. But will that fix the noise? I had the left side wheel bearings replaced last year, but this sound is not the same as this. Much less pronounced, but still fairly bothersome.
View 8 RepliesSo last night I noticed that my radiator was really loud. It sounds like it's working really hard. Also, when I turn off the car the radiator still runs for a few seconds. Heck, it may not even be the radiator as I'm not 100% positive.
Here's a video of it. In the video you can see that the noise is louder than the engine. Around the 24 second mark I turn the engine off but the noise still persists for a few more seconds.
I didn't rev the engine as the sound doesn't get louder or quieter based on my RPMs. Brought it to the dealership today. Service writer tells me it's because I did the flapper mod.
Ever since the temperature has started dropping (<0C/32F), I have noticed that the DSG on my GTI makes sort a "clunk" noise maybe half a second after shifting. It mostly happens when up-shifting and especially when shifting from second to third gear. The noise completely goes away after the car has warmed up (about 10 minutes), so I think it may be normal.
View 1 RepliesSo, after driving my car around for maybe an hour without any warning lights, I turned my car off. I tried to turn it on 15 minutes later when it turned over twice, sounding much louder than usual, then nothing. Tried again and just a single click. So I fear the worst and check the oil which is low but still on the stick and the coolant is fine too. I thought maybe the battery was dead so I tried a jump and that won't turn the engine over either. I put a charged battery from another car in and nada. I tried turning cam gear and also the flywheel pulley with a cheater bar and it doesn't want to move. I'm totally screwed right? That same morning I fiddled with the purge valves for the evap system because of a trouble code which O got to disappear. The engine also sounded funny for like 2 days only during ignition. By funny, it seemed to be louder than normal but no horrible metallic sounds or anything. Is it possible for it just to seize like that for no apparent reason?
View 15 RepliesRecently my brother in laws truck started making a buzzing sound while running and a much louder sound after it shuts off. Trying to track down the sound. Listen to the whole video because the end is where it gets loud.
6.7 powerstroke strange noise - YouTube
I notice a light ticking noise coming from the front of the engine. It sounds like it's coming from the puppies and not inside the engine. The dealer says it's normal. Is this normal for these cars. Mine is a 2008 v6 With 80k.
View 5 RepliesLeaking exhaust manifold? The truck has a much louder than normal "knock" when accelerating. At first I thought and had some bad fuel in the tank. I eliminated that with a full take of good fuel and some STP but the "knocking" continued. Then I thought that perhaps it wasn't firing on all cylinders but it felt like it had full power. I took it to my mechanic and he said it as a exhaust manifold leak. He said that he has never replaced the exhaust manifold but that it was a "nightmare" and expensive. He also said that it's not a safety issue but on the long run the leak would cause the truck not to pass its emission test. He said the problem was with rusted bolts that would be difficult to remove.
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