Golf/GTI VI :: 2011 - Flashing CEL / Horrible Misfire Smoke
Dec 23, 2011
Just bought a 2011 GTI certified Preowned with 12k miles. drives perfect the first week I have it doesnt make a noise, like a brand new car.
I get in the car about an hour ago to go get my daughter some tylenol and when pulling out I feel the car almost like Die and then the CEL starts flashing and the car starts smoking horrible. no power at all so I limped back the 500 ft to my parking spot.
I am new to MKVI but had a MKV GLI previously. my guess would be coil packs but wasnt sure about the horrible smoking.
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Just dug out my 2004 2.0 Jetta after sitting buried for 4 months. You can see a corner of the wheel there lol, its been a LONG winter. It is my car but my brother normally drives it, and while he is away at uni it just sits.
Anyways, dug it out to start it. Started right up, however after a bit the MIL began flashing. It was running a little rough. Took out my code reader and engine misfire cylinder 4 came up. The rpms are varying by 75~100 every few seconds, however nothing rough. It seemed to rev fine.
Before I put it away I got my brother to put some fuel stabilizer in the fuel. He now tells me that he put some in the oil too since it said "oil stabilizer" as well. It was a seafoam type brand... Not impressed with him there.
My question is could this just be the car waking up? Should I let it run for an hour or two to see if things work out?
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I have a 2009 VW GTI 6spd (42k miles) that has been misfiring at idle for about a month now. I can feel the engine shaking and see the CEL flashing at 900 RPM and eventually an EPC light comes on and makes the car run very sluggish. The EPC light turns off if the i turn the car off and back on. The car runs fine and without any misfires after start up which has me stumpted as to what it could be.
I've taken it to San Tan VW in Gilbert, AZ 3 times.
1st time they said it needed a 40k mile service to correct the misfire which included oil change, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, fuel injector clearner and a tire rotation They said spark plugs was causing the misifre so i replaced the plugs but the misfire was still there.
2nd time they said the injectors have carbon build up and recommended to run 2-3 bottles of fuel injector cleaner + octane booster per tank for about 2 tanks and that will fix the issue. That didnt work either.
3rd visit they came to the conclusion that it had massive amounts of carbon and needed a "walnut blast". They recommended to look else where for cheaper labor rates on the blast.
Also, need to understand why the car only misfires at 900 RPM if there is carbon deposits at all times.
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I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t 6speed, I recently bought it from a person(my first VW ever) so just trying to fix some things on it, One thing that I'm stuck at is My CEL, it keeps flashing the code P0501 and some random misfire on my cylinders, I have reset it and they keep coming back.
when I put about 10-15% throttle it revs up fine, no misfire or hesitation until the fuel gets cut off around 5500, which is 1k below factory red line, does not hit a thing like the rev limiter where it pegs off the top multiple times just fuel cuts off.
If i put anything above the said pressure the car then begins to misfire and lots of hesitation and that's what causes those codes to go off.
I've been reading many things pointing towards the engine speed sensor or the wiring. Occasionally my fuel/temp gauge quit working but I believe that is a separate issue all together.
So really trying to narrow down what is actually causing my engine to hesitate at low rpm.
Also i might note when I'm in neutral I can go wide open throttle and the car revs fine until the cutoff and only does the bog down when it's under full load. It sorta feels like the possible misfire is due to bad air/fuel but really do not know.
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So today i went and got my GIAC stage 2 flash on my 2011 gti. Once everything was installed back into the car , i took it for a test drive and once i got into second gear i had my EPC and Check Engine light come on along with the tachometer dropping to 0 rpms. Went back to the shop and diagnosed a Cylinder 2 misfire. Ended up replacing the coil pack with a new one and that was fixed. As far as my tachometer, it was still on 0. Took the car for another ride with the guy who flashed it running Vag on the car and everything was working fine.
Ecu was reading the rpms. Went back to the shop and did a test on the tachometer and it works when fine. The cluster also has the staging feature when i turn the car on before i start and that works fine, just doesn't read rpms while the car is running. Everyone was stumbled at the shop and they said they haven't had this problem before. Just wanted to also note that i also unclipped the harness for the Soundaktor but I am not sure if that has an affect on the tachometer or the cluster itself.
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Car: 2013 golf r.
Mods: stage 2, spm downpipe, stock catback, stock intake, dxd stage 2 clutch.
All of a sudden I am getting 17mpg in the city and 22-24 on the highway. Checked fuel trims and they are within 5%. I checked just the 032.
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So... I bought Ksport Coilovers and had them installed about a month ago. Were on the car about a week and started to get creaking noises from the front. So, I contacted BSH (who sold them) who put me in contact with the Director of Operations for Ksport...
Send them to him, and he replies that he thinks my sway bar is high, and that it should be "parallel with the ground. Today when backing up (down right) I get a horrible scraping grinding sound. I stop, get out (thinking it is the fender liner) only to find no damage. So I keep checking and find a fresh scrape on the axle. I drive (gingerly) home and pull the wheels off and check everything in the front. It is all tight and nothing seems to be broken. I look at the sway bar end (which is curved).
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Back in may, the ac started having a horrible smell for the first few minutes while on. It smells like crayons gone bad. I heard about this before but either i suck at researching ( probably this) or i am the only one with this problem (I am sure I am not).
Well, today on my way back from work my i tried to tun on my ac and nothing.. the fan on the radiator works, but the blower doesn't. Researching again, i found something about the resistors on the blower going bad. However, most of the people posting about it didnt have climatronic like we do. Is it the same for us?
Which fuses and relays are related to the ac?
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Both sides do it on turns and I notice it only when it is wet? It seems to be coming out of the tires...Pirelli P Zero Neros
Car has 3800 miles on it.
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Need to diagnose what I assume is a brake problem. On track, first lap is fine. Second lap start to get a vibration under braking. By the third lap the car is shuddering horrible under braking. Let the car cool for 5 minutes and it's back to the same pattern. Car is fine on the street - no vibration. StopTech slotted rotors and EBC Yellow pads. Rotors and pads have one track day on them and a few thousand commuting miles. My OEM rotors with the same brand pads lasted 4-5 track days and 30k miles.
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I have an my 2008 Golf mk5 R32 DSG. I have fitted the GruppeM Intake , done the decat and fitted a Milltek Resonated system. I am based around 1.12 miles above sea level and our fuel here is probably the equivalent of your 91. I had the car dyno'd yesterday with the graph below :
1. What is causing the horrible dip in torque and power just after 4000rpm? Do R32 graphs general look like this? Could it be a result of the variable valve timing?
2. I have a feeling my DSG's mechatronics unit is faulty , could that cause a loss in power or have a result on the dyno run?
3. The power does look low but if I convert it to coastal power it looks to be around 150wkw and 300Nm which seems right?
The biggest concern is the dip in the graph ... Power was measured at all 4 wheels ...
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The car has begun making a horrible clanking sound when going over small bumps. It sounds like it did when the control arm bushings were bad on my old mkIV. There are less than 5kmi on the car, so I can't imagine any mounts are worn out. It's still under warranty, so I know that it's just a dealer visit, but I'm wondering anyway. It sounds like crap.
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I used a fluid pump to suck out 1 gal of trans fluid thru the fill tube. I refilled. Started car, have engine miss. Flashing cel, comes and goes. I literally touched no other parts under hood. Yes, the fill tube is within 1 foot of maf. Perhaps I touched maf? What the heck? Life is not fair. Can't find my code reader.
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I bought a used 2010 GTI with 37k on it. I am loving the ride, more than I even anticipated. It has the DSG, and I enjoy the multitude of ways I can choose to drive this vehicle.
I do have one issue of concern that I would like some feed back on. Occasionally, when driving hard, the car makes a horrible shudder and doesn't accelerate. It's almost as if the vehicle misses a shift and is governing itself quickly and harshly. I haven't had enough concentration to check RPM's when it does it.
It feels horrible, scares me and makes me wonder what I'm doing, what I need to get checked, or if this is something others have experienced.
Pic for good measure.
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Today I started up my 2013 Passat SEL up and it started shaking and idling very strange. A few seconds later I had a flashing CEL so I decided to turn her off. I waited about 5 minutes (after cursing for about 4.5 if those minutes) and tried again. This time the car started and everything was fine, no CEL, no other issues. I drove for about 10 miles, shut off the engine and re-started about 5 more times with no issues.
I just had the car in for the 50K mile service at VW and everything checked out ok. I copied the VAGCON report below and I also sent it to my service manager to get his opinion. What I should do?
Saturday,02,January,2016,17:24:51:53498
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows Vista x86
VCDS Version: 15.7.3.0
Data version: 20151216
[Code] ....
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2008 GLS AWD, 2.7L w/ 66500mi. This happened on my way home from work this AM. Vehicle cold started normally, but I noticed a stumble as I idled out of my parking spot after a 12hr shift. All gauge indications looked OK. A few hundred yards down the road (and deep in the hood no less) I can feel an intermittent vibration/stumble and now I get the *FLASHING* (misfire) check engine light.
5am Sat morning and I'm already on the highway for my ~35mi ride home. The vehicle behaved OK, but you could feel a definite power loss, indicative of not firing on all 6. I hated to, but I had to drive it the whole ~35miles with the flashing CEL. I couldn't smell rich exhaust, nor did I notice any black smoke, etc.
Now I'm SOL. I have no warranty since I'm a subsequent owner (3rd owner of vehicle). Of course I lent out my generic code reader 2yrs ago and never got it back. My garage is currently upside down, tools packed away..etc. We just had a baby a few weeks ago and moved to a new house. Perfect timing.
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I'm having an issue with my 2003 Silverado, current engine is LS1 from a WS6 Trans Am, mostly stock, stainless headers, no cats, stall converter. I replaced fuel pump a few weeks ago and last week i took a road trip and when I hit the interstate the CEL started flashing. I pulled over and used my scanner and saw that it was P0307. I cleared code and continued on. The only noticeable problem was that it was not shifting into overdrive. After a while the light quit flashing and eventually it shifted into OD.
This happened several more times on a 750 mile trip. I had a mechanic friend check it over and he couldn't find anything, wasn't throwing codes at that time. He check sparked plug, swapped the coil to #5 and still had the issue. Didn't get a chance to check the fuel injector. The trip home it did the same thing. IF it were indeed a bad injector, wouldn't the problem be ongoing instead of coming and going? Took to local chevy dealer thinking they could diagnose it but since it didn't throw a code they couldn't find anything.
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I drove a hybrid prius for the second time ever this past Sunday and drove a whole 22 miles on open roads. This is earmarked to be the parts car, but I believe is actually in better shape than the principal car. Regardless, I'm trying to ensure the motor will be suitable for swapping into main car when needed prior to me pulling it out so I'm tinkering/driving it this next week.
The engine has a misfire, and I suspect that is the reason for the flashing orange check engine light. But what I'm not used to is that the light goes off and doesn't stay illuminated. The light comes on and flashes when any significant demand is placed on the engine-- when I nurse the throttle pedal, I can hear the engine running (I think) and there's no miss. But when I give it throttle the engine starts to miss and the CEL starts to flash. When I slow back down, the engine stops missing and the light goes off.
1) How/why the CEL flashes but then turns off?
The only background I have on this car (2008 at 225K miles) is it was taken out of service with the following writeup:
P0300 Random misfire, 0301 Misfire #1, Po302 Misfire #2 and P0101 Mass Air Flow Stored in ECM. Intermittently car only runs on 2 cyls. Suspect problem with intake due to the fact there is a recall for newer vehicles with the same condition. #1 spark plug continually getting wet with oil. Possible valve guides or ring issue allowing oil in to combustion chamber. To correct engine replacement or rebuild will be necessary.
2) What is this maf recall and might that issue apply to this 2008?
Truthfully, I only need the car to function for ~ 400 miles on a racetrack. I've been reading about the pcv valve replacement and MAF sensor cleaning. I'm considering venting the pcv line into a catch can or into the exhaust stream (to reintroduce a vacuum to the crankcase) and plugging the opening in the throttle body so there's no chance the throttle body is sucking in crankcase oil that's fouling the plugs.
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My Azera has developed a misfire. Upon leaving work today it ran rough ass soon as I started it. CEL flashing.. I could feel it skipping as I was driving home. Skip never let up.
When I got home, I hooked up the Scanner to it. DTC P0300 was set. Which I think is random misfire. I checked underhood. Nothing appears amiss. With engine off I clear the code and restart the car, This time it set DTC P0301 cyl. #1. I think.
I do not have all the factory service manuals yet. so I need to know what the firing order is on the 2006 3.8 L VIN F Engine. And where the #1 cyl is located. I am suspecting a bad coil at the #1 Cylinder.
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I have a 2002 Elantra with 123k on it. It has been having issues with poor acceleration, rough idle, surging, and the car just overall shakes sometimes when driving. The check engine light started flashing on and off periodically today, so I coded and it and it gave me P0303, which is a cylinder 3 misfire. I checked the spark plugs, and the cylinder 3 spark plug was pretty bad, so I went ahead and replaced all 4. The wires were in mint condition, so no issues there. I also put fuel injector cleaner in just for good measure. When I went to test the car, startup and acceleration/reverse were better, but the other symptoms still persist. What I should check next???
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Started with trouble starting right after a fill up. Right before I was to replace the evap purge valve, I filled up and on my way home, the MIL starts flashing and the car starts to misfire significantly. I replaced the purge valve, but no change in performance (though my car now started up right away after filling it up!). I would drive the car and it would misfire while idling at a light, backing up out of my driveway, accelerating on flat and inclined roads, etc. Codes were 300, 301, 303, and 337 (misfire, misfire, misfire, crankshaft position sensor low voltage)
So, I replace the crankshaft sensor with OEM (this is my 3rd one and this sensor going bad has caused different symptoms each time. First my car would cut out and die while turning, second it would not allow the car to start, and now presumably rough idle). Now the car starts up with less cranking, but still runs rough and misfires (only 301 this time).
So, next I replace the plugs with NGK V's gapped at .044. Better, but not perfect. I noted that the plug in cylinder 1 was darker than the rest.
I read on thread here about regapping to .035, so I tried that. Again, I noted that cylinder 1 plug is slightly darker, while 2-4 have a slight white coating. After the regap, runs great, no misfires, smooth acceleration, perfect...for 24 hours.
On day 2 I start to feel a slight misfire going up a hill, and sometimes at a red light or accelerating from a stop...but not all the time.
Now its day 3 and similar to day 2. Not since I regapped the plugs has the MIL been on, so the misfires are hard enough to feel, but not enough to trigger the MIL.
Not sure where to go next. The coil packs were replaced last year (35,000 miles ago). The car has 137,000 miles on it.
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