I'm owner of a VW GTI 2011 Stage 2 APR
Chip Stage 2, APR Intake
Today I got a Check Engine light, I plugged my scanner and read: P2404/009220 EVAP Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit: Implausible Signal. But I realize that I have 2 tube near the motor that doesn't have anything on it.
As title states, I scanned my gti and got P0420 (nothing new here) and P1136. I did some searching and looks like vacuum leak can cause this, however I also read that it'll affect my idle. I replaced MAF 2 years ago with a brand new OEM one, my idle is NOT rough, at all.
View 1 RepliesI recently purchased a used, high mileage 2004 Infiniti G35x (AWD) 145K miles from a reputable new car dealer here in my town. The car was impeccably maintained and clean inside and out. Just a week or two after the purchase my SES light came on revealing engine Code: P0430 (catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 2) pointing to a new catalytic converter in my future. Infiniti recommends premium unleaded for this vehicle. I found out my son filled her up with mid-grade unleaded. Is there any chance this could have triggered the SES light to come on? (Previous owner states he always used premium unleaded in the vehicle since ownership.) I also double checked the gas cap to make sure it was on tight. I find it extremely odd that the SES light would come on so shortly after the purchase. I mean what are the odds? Don't dealers run a diagnostic scan of their trade-ins to check history and for potential problems prior to selling their used cars? I test drove this car numerous times without any indication of a problem and right on the heels of the purchase it passed state emissions... now just a few days later, the SES light comes on. Why wouldn't emissions pick that up? I have reset the SES light (code) and filled her up with premium unleaded. Now it's a waiting game to see if the light comes on again. If the light reappears, I plan on taking it back to the dealer to work out some kind of "reasonable solution" to repair costs. I'll find out just how willing he is to stand behind his cars. I realize that this is a high mileage car, and I hardly expect perfection, but I didn't see this coming. What to do... what to do... By the way, I checked all the fluid levels ... no discoloration in the oil (fresh, golden brown)... no discoloration in the coolant... transmission fluid, good... all other levels are good. Car runs fine, no rough idle in cold...
View 11 Replies2006 Subaru Forester X 2.5L AT non-turbo
I changed the oil and oil filter; replaced the air filter (Fram), and replaced the alternator and a/c belts. I also got a full tank of gas at Sam's Club, I was nearly empty. I've gotten gas plenty of times there, before.
Next day, the CEL comes on. It's a P0304 code. (Cruise control light is flashing, too.) Engine stumbles and runs rough when cold; idles fine when warm, runs OK, but not the same, when warm. CEL is steady, which is "not bad" but I can make it flash if I hit the accelerator while the engine is cold. Resetting the computer by disconnecting the hot battery terminal didn't work; CEL came on again two days later and symptoms remained.
I buy some MAF cleaner (CRC) and use it; MAF was pretty dirty on the upstream side, actually.
I'm going to change the plugs and wires (they need it, anyway) and I've ordered a new ignition coil, which I'll also switch out.
I've also ordered the gasket for the throttle body, which I'll take apart and clean once that comes in. Last step is to order replacement O2 sensors.
I'm 99% certain there's nothing wrong with the engine, in terms of rings, valves, pistons, etc. I think I'm covering all the bases in addressing this myself. I'm on a limited budget so I'm doing all the labor myself and ordering non-OEM parts on-line, after researching to make sure the parts have a good reputations, fit, etc. (Yes, that's all a big FU to Subaru service for being over-priced but besides being relatively poor I also enjoy doing this stuff.)
I have been getting a code 18 which is a loss of tach signal. I have checked the distributor and the module and they are both good. Where do I start next?
View 2 Repliesis my Toyota camry going to stall cause it has po401 code and I think it has an muffler or exaust leak can the cause po401 code.
View 3 RepliesMy Touareg (2007) was running great until this morning when the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) came on. Checked with a mechanic who got a reading of PO306 which he explained was the #6 cylinder problem. All VW dealers are closed for service by now but I must drive back to work in St Louis tomorrow? Is it OK for me to drive with that MIL on?
View 7 RepliesMy 2002 camry 4cyl auto, jap built, with near 190k miles, check engine light just came on, P1135, has not replace any sensor since I own at 125k, 7 years ago, did noticed last 3 to 6 months, mileage drop to 25 or 26mpg average, used to be around 30+mpg, I thought it was change season for gasoline mix.
View 3 RepliesI just brought home a brand new 2011 Prius base model (it was the dealership's last one...their showroom model...=D)!
Unfortunately, I forgot that the hatchback door opens up REAL high and the spoiler kissed my garage door. Now there is this white mark and I was wondering if I can fix it at home? What is the difficulty level? I'm not really a handy-man so don't want to try to fix it and end up making it looking even worse (unless it's super easy to do).
The mark is not too too noticeable...it's about the size of a pencil tip. It just happens to be white so stands out slightly against the black.
Also, most important, will this small blemish get worse over time and cause the mark to get larger over time (I'm thinking of how a crack can propagate and eventually cause a failure...except this won't be as serious)?
I'm using an innova 3100/abs tester and that's the code it throws back. The company is zero support, claiming it is an internal Dodge code that they have no info for.
The code is : 50FE
Is that any use to me, or did I buy this tester for nothing..?
Check engine light just came on. I scanned the car and the code PO704 came up.
"Clutch switch input circuit malfunction."
If I replace my clutch switch, will this solve the problem? I got the part number #1jo 927 189f i just want to make sure its that switch that's bad.
I picked up a 2002 Prius with 164k, still on original battery. It giving code P3030 which evidently relates to a high voltage line snapped on the bus bar.
View 4 RepliesI own a 2003 Volkswagen Passat Wagon 2.8L SFI DOHC 6cyl. I have a code P3081 I have replaced the temp sensor and the reserve coolant tank I am going for the thermostat next. I cannot get rid of this code. Also since the code started when my wife drives short distances and turns off the car it won't start again for about 15 min unless it is jumped started. To top it all off she came home yesterday and said she turned on the a/c and it worked for about 10 min and then made a lot of noise and quit working.
View 2 RepliesThe issue with 99 Corolla CE with 147,000 miles....
I have a misfiring P0303 Code - Cylinder #3 Misfire. Here is what has been done in an effort to remedy the misfire. A major tune up, new spark plugs, new fuel injectors, new spark plug wiring, new coil packs, The car runs ok once warmed up but in the morning the engine vibrates until warm and also shivers a little while the car is stopped at a stop light. I have dropped it off at the mechanics a couple of times now to no avail. Once the code is reset it will not display the CEL for a couple of days but the symptoms still remains. The CEL comes back on within 2-3 days with the same code. Really frustrating! Well, at least this time CEL in not flashing like before it comes on and stays on.
I bought my mk4 GTi about a year ago. The paint around the rear wheel well all the way down to the rocker started to bubble quickly and I can see now it's all rotted. Looks like someone covered it up for a quick sale as it all happened very quickly. Anyway, I'm now looking to repair this and want to make sure I take the best route. I linked some pictures. I've been told to cut it out, weld a patch panel, and epoxy primer then build with bondo and go through painting procedure.
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Brakes: Current setup has over 40,000 miles. OEM rotors with Hawk HPS pads. Stiffing kit aka brass bushings installed. Brakes feel rough. Having problems with sticking and ABS on one side. I switched the pads and the sliders from left to right. The problem seems to have moved when pads and sliders were switched around. Possible solutions: brake caliper rebuild. I already bleed the brakes and clutch out. What pads should I use next? Is braided lines a good idea??
Paint: Front bumper is shot, hood has rock chips, mirrors need work out and rear bumper could use a lil love. Should I paint these parts Reflex silver? Paint the whole car again?? Or wrap the car? What about wrapping the whole car? Matte silver? Brushed Silver? Shiny Silver? Or maybe a camo wrap? What's ya input, how bout I rattle can these parts?? Show car or street brawler??
TIRES: My Nitto NT05's have about 2/32's left. Good dry grip, tons of DRY grip but everything else is just ok. Cost, weight, wet traction, comfort, looks, noise and vibration are all OK. Tire wear is less than expected. I KNOW that the Michelin Super Sports are the TOP TIRE right now. Everything about the Super Sport is great! But, I'm hearing the Hankook RS3's are the best bang for the buck. I also heard that the Falken 452 is being replaced by the 453 AS WE SPEAK. I need a cost effective tire with good dry grip, good wet grip, decent noise and vibration with good wear rating. The Michelin fits the bill but they a Lil expensive. What tires should I consider?
Vag-Com: I got codes to read, you'll. Airbag light on, I wanna find the problem and FIX IT. My laptop computer is weak. I don't wanna get a cable and a disc for VAG. What are my other options? I wanna be able to erase codes and realign my throttle body. Other than VAG-COM how can I read and erase codes??
Where I can find a good description of the 2.0 (engine code AVH) PCV system?
This may not be a source of many problems since I find so little on it. My son has a 2003 Golf 2.0. From the little, pretty non-definitive, info that I find it appears that there may not be a problem with its crankcase vent system but it would be nice to be able to find something to understand it better. It's leaking from the rear main seal. We're gonna fix that but don't want to have it reoccur because we didn't fix a potential cause of it.
I've found a couple of references that are observation based:
(1) Loosen the oil filler cap. If it bounces/pulses up and down then the PCV system is probably working correctly.
(2) Remove the oil filler cap. If the engine starts idling like it has a vacuum leak the the PCV system is probably working correctly.
(3) Remove/loosen the oil dupstick. If the engine starts to idle rough then the PCV system is probably working correctly.
There seems to be nothing but a couple of hoses involved in the particular engine's PCV system. Not much to trace and nowhere is there any kind of valve, diaphram, etc. that I would expect to find. Can someone either explain this particular version of VW's PCV systems or point me toward a good source?
What is the code to control the windows using the lock/unlock on the keyfob and also how to get to it? (2011 jetta)...
View 1 RepliesSoild CEL, autozone pulled a P2015 code, but couldnt find it for VW in their system, just hyundai, toyota, dodge, and kia codes came up.
Looked around and everywhere says it's the notorious MKVI IM replacement issue.. Im under PT warranty until Nov. '15 so im good there.
Heres the catch.. sometimes it goes off without any changes to the vehicle. First thing (before the obd2 reader from autozone) i checked was my gas cap, that will cause a CEL sometimes, next time I started the car the CEL was off. the next day, without touching the gas cap since, the CEL was on again, today its off
car idles fine, drives fine, MPG are fine, pulls fine, stops fine, steers fine, everything works in the car. year: 2011
I have an intermittent check engine light that's popping up due to a P2187 code. The CEL will come and go, and if I clear the code it it'll be back within the next week or so. The car is a stock 2011 GTI with DSG. What I need to be looking at to get this sorted out?
View 4 RepliesI just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
View 8 Replies