My 2011 Golf with the 2.5 has developed a rapid chirping sound at 55-60 mph, that varies in rapidity as I decelerate from 60 mph. Doesn't do it at lower or higher speeds. It isn't terribly loud, but noticeable. Only have a little over 24,000 miles on it.
View 5 RepliesMy P is partly laid up with a battery conditioner permanently attached and is used only every few weeks. Once the ignition is turned on, any music is damped and a distinct rapid 'chirping' noise is heard, for about 3 seconds. The music then ramps back up and all is well. No warnings, lights or other indications whatsoever. The battery voltage seems fine and she starts beautifully. My suspicion is that it may be battery or immobiliser related. My primitive VCDS gives no codes.
View 2 RepliesAbout 6 months ago my 2011 Optima alarm started going off randomly in the night, a couple times a week. It was annoying to me and the neighbors. I park on my driveway and have nothing of value in the car. Our neighborhood is a good one.
When I took it to the dealership for its 15k mileage checkup they shrugged their shoulders, said they had no idea. The next time I brought it in I reported it happening more frequently and even during the day. I also reported not hearing the chirping lock sound anymore, but that I could hear the locks engage when hitting the key fob control. They looked and looked and said that a sensor in the engine compartment had a bumper missing and they replaced it and it worked at chirping again (for a while). They had no idea on the random alarm.
My car chirps only occasionally when being locked, and it still goes off at all hours of the day. Randomly. There seems to be no conceivable pattern. Except that it goes off least when parked in my garage. Lately I have taken to leaving the car doors unlocked in my driveway so I don't have to sleep with the keys on my nightstand.
I love my Optima but am seriously considering having the horn disconnected. And no. Its not a battery issue. We put a new battery in. The problem continued immediately.
When i first got my MKV R32 it was such a great handling car. I was able to got very fast on curvy roads with not even a slight bit of skid or squeal. Now its developed this rattling and squeaking sound. I feel the bumps in the road more, i notice more body roll, and alot of vibration in the steering wheel, and what pisses me off the most is i hear more squealing on turns that i used to be able to take faster with no squeal. For example i used to b able to take this turn at around 75mph no peel, now i started peeling out at like 63. (my tires have alot of tread) when i got the car it had around 17,000 mi on it now it has 31,000 mi.
View 17 RepliesMy driver's seat has developed a popping sound when I move around, especially moving forward and back. It seems to be coming from the cushion in base of the seat or maybe down in the lower part of the seat back. I remember a thread a while back about this problem but I forgot what the diagnosis and solution was. I did a search but nothing came up, maybe I just used the wrong key words, I don't know.
View 24 RepliesSo I just brought my 2015 golf TDI in for its 20,000 standard service and then starting about 2 days later, every time I start the engine there is this rapid (and loud) ticking sound which goes on for 20 seconds or so before stopping. It almost sounds like it is coming from the passenger side speaker or under the passenger side dash. It sounds electronic in nature rather than mechanical but I'm not really sure.
View 2 Replies 2008 R32 with 17k ... What might be causing this sound which is just a faint clicking clicking sound that happens intermittently when driving.
I have an appointment at VW dealer tomorrow but they do not want to take ownership as I have replaced the head unit and have steering wheel controls for my Alpine IVA 505.
It is not electronic as the controls are solid state and the can bus adapter is behind the head unit. It seems mechanical but what could it be? I definitely notice that at a stop when rocking the brake that create the start of the clicking sound .
Super annoying problem I can't solve.
Front brakes have a constant chirping sound that goes away when brakes are applied.
New front brakes were installed in November, OEM rotors and pads.
They were quiet as a mouse, until i installed a new set of struts and springs along with 10mm front spacers.
(Yes I am using extended lug bolts).
I took the fronts apart this weekend and lubed the hell out of them, still squeaking.
My next thought is to use some of that CRC disc brake quiet red goo stuff, but I'd rather not use that if i don't have to.
I have a 2011 bought new. The car has had every service and recommended service at the original Lexus dealer Sithtown Lexus on Long Island. The car developed a tapping noise at about 30,000 miles. Every service I tell the service dept and they always tell me its normal? Problem is the noise doesn't go away after the car is warmed up. It is always there no matter how much I drive it. I have heard some members say the dealers say its the fuel injectors making noise but this seems to be slowly getting louder . The car has 53000 miles now and I am getting the impression the dealer IE Lexus is trying to avoid a major engine job until after the 60000 mile engine warranty is up. How do I get this taken care of , they seem to be adamant about it being normal.
View 7 RepliesBack story, I've been borrowing my father's 2008 Prius off of him since I took a new job and my Tacoma doesn't get the best mpg, and finally purchased it off of him. Its making a new sounds though and he wants to get it fixed if its something major.
Its a quiet peeping that can be heard inside the car when coming to a stop (just when its quiet.) I've tracked the sound down to the engine bay but cant pinpoint where it is exactly, somewhere on the drivers side and its more of a pulsating whining sounds. The water pump was replaced about 10k miles ago at 65k miles under warranty.
After doing some searching I was unable to find what exactly would cause a water pump to create a knocking sound and was wondering how or why a water pump for a 350 (5.7l) would knock.
The other day I had to change the water pump on my '96 k2500 (w/ 5.7l). Bought a brand new pump and put it on, refilled the coolant. No odd noises. Heater blew out very hot air, too. Drove for about 20 miles then parked it for about 6 hours. the radiator was still full and no signs of leaks - everything looked normal.
Within 10 seconds of starting the truck there was a rapid knocking... like numerous valves were suddenly out of adjustment or rod bearings crapped out. Shut it off and rechecked everything started it again. The oil pressure was steady at about 55psi. shut it off again.
With the serpentine belt off, oil pressure was good and there was no knocking. Put the belt on and the knocking returned. I also tried it with the fan removed and the belt on - still knocking.
Returned that water pump and got another and so far no problems. But I still wonder, if it was a bearing or maybe some impeller tolerance was off or what exactly in a water pump could cause a rapid knocking sound.
My 03 Corolla S - 5 Speed has developed a sound while driving, only when giving it gas. The sound goes away when I press in the clutch. It doesn't make any unusual sounds while parked and idling.
The sound, sounds like a knocking noise. At least to me that's what it sounds like. My car has 156k miles on it.
The car idles fine, rpm's are good on while driving, temps good and still gets really good gas mileage.
Does it have something to do with my clutch, since the noise goes away when I take my foot off the gas, or press the clutch in?
Is there something I should be checking? All my fluids are good, brake/clutch, oil, transmission fluid, radiator, etc.
I have a Lacrosse that has 110,000 miles on its engine. The car has has regular maintenance and oil changes at suggested intervals ( 3000K). 2000 miles into this oil change, The engine developed a clunk type sound. I checked the oil and it was dirty so I took in for another oil change. I was quite surprised to hear that I needed a new engine immediately. They could not tell me what had failed but I was in need of a $4000.00 engine transplant.I requested that they change the oil and give me back my car. I have taken it to another shop and they concur with shop one. Shop two took it to a third shop while they had it just to confirm. After the oil change, the repetitive clunk became a persistent tap. Is my engine really going to implode in the near future? Is there anything that can be done to extend the life of the car?
View 18 RepliesIts a 2008 Volkwagen jetta with about 60000 miles on it. My car makes a rapid fire clicking sound. I've checked the battery connections and they seem fine. When I tried to jump start, the electronics inside start flashing to the same clicking sound. The check engine light is on.
View 7 RepliesTwo weeks ago my car would not start, so I had a friend try and jump the battery. This battery wouldn't hold a charge, I took it into O'Reilly Auto Parts and they said the battery was shot. I put the new battery they recommended, the car ran fine for about 5 days. I took the battery back to O'Reilly and had them test the battery, it was too low to start the car, so they charged it and sent me on my way. The car ran fine for the rest of the day. The next morning the car would not start again, so I called the auto parts store and they recommended switching out my alternator. We switched out the alternator and the car fired right up, it ran perfectly (lights, heater, radio, etc) until yesterday.
While driving down the street, I noticed the radio head unit flicker, then it shut off. The car kept driving for about 2-3 city blocks, then all the lights shut off (dash lights, headlights, tail lights, brake lights). I turned onto a side street and the car couldn't go above 10-15 mph, it seemed. The speedometer and other gauges started going berserk, followed by a ton of dash lights coming on. The car basically rolled to a stop. I put it in park, turned the key to off and had it towed to my house. When I turn the key to accessory, all the lights work, as well as the heater and radio. But when I turn the key to start the car, a rapid-clicking sound comes from under the hood.
I've had a used 2007 V6 Camry for about six months now.
I recently started noticing a quiet set of rapid clicks/clacks sound coming from engine compartment/firewall area more or less on driver side. I'm not sure if it was there all along or if I just began noticing it.
It occurs after starting the car, putting it in drive and as soon as I let off the brakes and begin rolling. It might only happen going forward. I will have to notice if it does it in reverse.
It happens rapidly and stops and I don't hear it again until I repeat the steps above after the car has sat a while. I don't believe it will do it again, if say, after doing it once I stop, put it into park and then back into drive and go.
I don't believe it's the CV joints. It does it once and stops and is not related to movement of the steering wheel. It almost reminds me of a relay switching something.
I'll also add that I had a 1995 Prizm and 2000 Corolla that did the same thing. Both were manual transmissions. The click they made was much louder though their cabins were not sealed as well as the Camry. The clicks would happen only after the car had sat a while as soon as the car first started rolling and then would stop. Could it be the same thing in all three cars?
While driving, a rapid clicking sound randomly comes from under and to the left of the steering wheel and the van concurrently has stuttered power. It still drives but is rapidly getting worse with frequency and we are on a road trip on the Oregon Coast with young kids and limited local mechanics. It seems like something as simple as a loose connection but before digging in to check electrical connections .....
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid (automatic). The car has a bit under 200,000 miles on it, and has been used in a lot of long distance commuting and driving. We do pretty frequent check ups on it, and checked oil/other fluids last week -- all were good (the oil is admittedly getting close to needing a change, but definitely not within the next few weeks).
I was on the return trip of a 300+ mile drive when I noticed a rapid clicking/ticking sound roughly under the right side (passenger side) dash of the car. It was not affected by turning, accelerating or braking. The clicking was not constant, not very loud (I did not notice it over my music at first) and would come and go. If it was affected by anything, it appeared to come or go when a bump was hit, but that also wasn't necessarily always the case (hit bumps and it didn't stop, hit bumps and it didn't start). I checked wheel wells and under car for objects (suspension is a bit worn and car is low to begin with, so it rides close to ground and this has been a problem before; didn't seem similar) and there was nothing.
Google has led me to the possibility of sticky lifters, and though the sound is similar-ish, I am under the impression that this would be a much more constant noise and I am also fairly confident in the current quality of my oil.
I have a new sound. I recently swapped my coolant and thermostat. After that a slight whistle has developed. It seems like it is RPM dependent, it hasnt gotten any worse after a solid 400 miles of driving, but it also hasn't gotten any worse. It sounds like if someone has slightly blowing into a whistle, but not all the way. What it could be?
View 24 RepliesMy 2013 Prius v (lowercaes v for the Prius v wagon, not an uppercase v) has right at 4100 miles on it. In the past few months, I had to get the entire odometer/instrument panel swapped out when it developed crazing lines, hazy circles.
After fighting with a couple of dealers and them blaming me for the defects in this failed part, the original dealer finally replaced it. Now I'm hearing a chirping/squeaking sound whenever accelerating that seems to be coming from this same area. The back seat/door on the drivers side also rattles, but that's a separate problem.
This is the most squeaky, rattly car I've ever owned. And that includes a 1966 Mustang, which wasn't the best car ever made. I'm pretty disappointed in Toyota's "quality" which appears sub-standard compared to the Chevy and Ford's I've owned. But that to the side, what this squeak is? It sounds exactly (and I mean exactly) like this ....
The chirping sound happens when I go over bumps but not all the time. If I take a short little ride to the store at low speeds it won't happen but as soon as I get driving in the city or on the highway it sounds like a bird on crack back there, really loud as I go over any type of bumps. I searched and learned that it could be the wheel rubbing the caliper but its not that. There is nothing leaking back there and no visible signs of damage or wear. Brakes have plenty of pad left and rotor is good, i check the tire well also and everything is tight.
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