Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Transmission Surging And Dropping The Clutch
Feb 12, 2015
So I just recently had to take my 2010 Golf TDI into the shop to replace the mechanics unit. Took them a while to get the unit installed but overall I was happy. The car was driving perfect for about 2-3 months. Then all of a sudden the transmission starting violently surging and dropping the clutch again. I thought the mech unit was going bad again in less than 5K miles. I couldn't get the car in the shop until about 3-4 days after and I did drive the car there because the surging was manageable. It did kick the car into safe mode when the dsg appeared to overheat. It turns out there was a leak from the gasket. They are fixing it now free of charge but it looks like they messed up.
The issue is now I am afraid of any damage that may have been caused to the mech/clutch form the fluid getting low. Should I be worried about this and if so what should I do? I would think the shop should be responsible for any damage done to the car.
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Last night pulling out of a gas station I gave the R some gas and dropped the clutch. The car lurched me into the street but then the RPM just climbed while in gear. Shifted to second, same thing. After a couple of seconds it finally caught and started driving normally.
The whole way home I smelled horrible organic-ness yet didn't feel anymore slipping. To do another test, I have a large hill to climb going into my apartment complex. I went ahead and turned off the traction control and went at it, everything went fine, AWD kicked in and clutch held.
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I started having issues with my clutch pedal "dropping out" from under my foot. Not necessarily during a shift. It still works but will stay down towards the bottom of the travel and after either lifting with my toe or pressing it a few times it kicks back up and usually stays up. Is this my clutch dieing? or something hydraulic related? Hoping I don't have to replace clutch. Searched R32 forum for anything similar and couldn't find anything.
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About 2-3 months ago I noticed that whenever I would push the clutch in and let the revs drop, they would drop below the 800 rpm mark and the car would automatically rev them back up to prevent from stalling. This usually happens when I am slowing to come to a stop, like coming down an off-ramp or to a stop light. Then one night after a 45 minute steady speed highway drive, I pushed the clutch in, shifted to neutral and let the clutch out and coasted to a stop. As the revs dropped, the engine stalled completely and the red alternator warning light came on. While still rolling on the highway, I pushed and held the start/stop button and it immediately started back up.
Over the last 6 weeks, this has become more frequently. It is now at a point where the revs will pretty much always drop below 800 rpm when I slow down and the car usually revs them back. However, I have had six more stall episodes like the one above and it is starting to scare me about driving. I find myself revving the engine when I coast in neutral to slow down to prevent this from happening. This happens either with the clutch depressed and gear engaged and slowing or clutch out and in neutral gear.
The car has never had issues. I am the sole owner. Just coming up on 30,000 miles. I currently have UM tune stage 2, EVOMS intake, APR HPFP, 42DD downpipe with stock cat-back exhaust, HPA short shifter with metal cable bushings, Stoptech Street rotors and pads, VWR springs and RSR clutch, which was installed at about 22,000 miles one year ago. Have serviced it religiously, oil changes every 5,000 miles, did the water pump recall and had no issues thus far.
I moved from high-elevation Utah to New Hampshire last summer. The tune and calibration were all done in Utah prior to the move. These symptoms/issues beginning and getting worse coincided with the cold winter and lots of snow were are having. Could that and the tune having been calibrated at another elevation have anything to do with this?
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2001 Regal GS Supercharged 3.8 with 120K
After a normal start, about 30 seconds later, the engine starts to shutter with RPM dropping low and surging. If I do not play with gas pedal will ultimately stall. Once it is past its fit, which lasts about a minute, maybe a little more, the engine then runs and performs fine until the next start. This happens with a cold or hot engine. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter. Still have the issue. All battery connections, grounds, etc. are good. No check engine light.
When it starts to shutter it is significant. Reminds me of trying to start a cold piston aircraft engine on a cold day after a couple shots of primer and goosing the throttle.
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Grill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.
Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.
Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.
At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.
My two questions:
For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?
At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.
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I am not very familiar with transmissions and clutches, hence I just purchased a used transmission for my jetta 1.8t, i was told that i might as well do the clutch while the transmission is getting done. I just purchased the car two years ago and the guy said that he put a vr6 clutch in. so my question is, what exactly will i need to get for both the transmission and clutch replacement. Like I mentioned, I only have bought the transmission so far.
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I have a 2010 Passat 2.0T with 42k miles. Since it rolled over 38k on the odometer, I have been having a problem with the tranny dropping down to 5th, sometimes even 4th, while at cruising speeds (80-85 mph...Live in Texas). I notice this mostly on long drives (Ft Worth to San Antonio). The problem usually occurs while in Drive when I punch it to pass. Although, this is not always the case; sometimes it will drop down by simply letting off the accelerator or pushing the brake.
When this happens, I have to manually shift it back into 6th and its a crap shoot if it stays there when I put it back into Drive. This last trip I drove 90% manually because it would not stay in 6th in Drive. After calling the dealer and them telling me that it was probably a cruise problem, I turned off the cruise and drove without it with the same results. I bought this car used with 19k miles; Is the transmission covered under warranty or are there any recalls on this?
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My R has been giving me some trouble lately. First I had some issues, I thought were clutch related.
-A loud clunk when releasing clutch pedal (only when engine running) and sometimes when depressing it too.
-Randomly changing clutch biting point when driving hard. So e.g. when revving through 1st and 2nd gear the clutch would bite much lower than usual. (This was so weird.)
-Whistling sound when changing from 1st to 2nd gear.
Replaced the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and the TOB and bled the system several times. Also new solid DLI motor mounts and new oem dogbone mount.
There was some side-to-side play on input shaft that I was told is not a big deal. Also this gearbox has always been much louder than other cars Ive driven.
Now that weird changing clutch biting point is gone but other issues are still there. And now, because of the lightweight smf and the motor mounts the gears shatter and whine so much more on low revs and during engine braking. I know 02m s tend to do that but its so loud I am a bit worried.
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I've done a bit of research both here and on other sites. I originally thought that I had a bad flywheel but I'm not convinced. First I'll give a little backstory. I just installed steel shift forks because one broke and got jammed in the gears. None of the gears are damaged and I assumed that when it slammed to halt, the flywheel got messed up. So anyways, the complaint is that when the clutch pedal is released I start to hear a knocking sound which becomes more rapid with RPM. When the pedal is depressed the sound goes away. This sound seems to be coming more from the driver's end of the trans. The car still moves in all gears so I can't imagine that I put it together wrong.
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I have a 1993 Aerostar 3.0L, automatic. The transmission has started dropping out of overdrive into drive while at speed. It's very inconsistent as sometimes it will drive without incident and sometimes it will barely go into overdrive and then drop back out and remain in drive for an extend period of time. I changed the fluid/filter/gasket thinking it was just overdue for changing but no luck. The fluid level is fine, perhaps even a little high. Fluid looks clean on the stick, so I don't think it was a lack of draining enough fluid. The problem seems to be more pronounced when warmed up.
Also when cold, I've had an issue with it stalling while taking off from a stop. I wouldn't necessarily relate the two problems, but someone mentioned they thought they might both be a symptom of a slipping torque converter or something. But the stalling issue seems to go away when it's warmed up.
Also had an issue with the van not wanting to start when damp. But I attributed this to water getting on the coil or plugs or something. What I could try before taking it to a shop and risking getting taken?
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So I took my car in for the recall last night and also told my service advisor that my transmission has been a bit jerky lately. Kind of felt like the clutch was slipping when you start going from dead stop, and clunk here, clunk there.
After their diagnostics it seems to be the Mechatronics unit, apparently about 50% of our cars had the issue. The part would have to be ordered from VW due to it being made per VIN and is on back order. They didn't have the reacall parts in stock so I had to leave my car there. Stuck in a bright red Jetta now.
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I currently own an mk6 gti with a manual trans... as of late I've been noticing a rattling noise when the clutch pedal is not engaged.. once engaged the rattling stops completely .. it seems to be getting louder and louder .. I am worried this could eventually turn into something worse than just a rattling noise .. i had a friend mention it could be the "throwout bearing" ..
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I travel on the highway frequently and when I am cruising at 115-120 km/h my gear consistently drops from 6th gear to 5th gear then back to 6th gear. I am not pressing hard on the gas just keeping it at a normal pressure. This is the 2016 Hyundai Santa Fe brand new only 6500km. I brought it to the dealership twice already and they found nothing wrong. Saying there are no error codes when scanned and when they drive it nothing happens.
On my second visit I showed them a video of what is happening. It was two minutes long and within the two minutes my gear down shifted 3 times. So you can imagine when I am long driving how many times this happens. In order to get around it I have to shift to tiptronic and leave it on 6 gear so I don't get this down shifting incident.
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I have an 02 Honda Accord V6 LX with a bit over 142k miles and an automatic transmission. She runs fine (as far as I know). No major transmission problems, just a little slow going from 1st to 2nd and sticks just a tad when dropping down from 2nd to 1st.
Here's the question: To Flush or not to flush?
Mechanic #1 told me to never flush a transmission after 130k miles; instead, he said, I should take it to a specialist.
Mechanic #2 said a flush would be fine.
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Today I was 160 miles into a 250 mile drive and things were going well. I was cruising at about 75-80mph and approaching a fairly long hill of moderate grade. As I climbed the hill, my rpm was dropping, as expected before a downshift. The downshift never happened. I kept pushing more pedal and eventually, at maybe 40mph, it downshifted, but still no power. Engine being held at around 2500 rpm. No power no matter how much I pushed. Down hill I was able to resume speed but as soon as the next uphill, same thing, no power, no shift. Pulled over, it was raining hard. Checked for wet fuse box, control modules, pcm, wiring harnesses, everything dry. Checked all fuses. Disconnected battery in hopes of forcing reset, no change.
Checked trans fluid, it was clean, red, full, and unburnt. No visual wires broken or chafed. No odd smells or sounds. Nothing noticeably hot. Truck hits 45mph max on flat ground. I limped it this way for 20 miles. If I push my foot to the floor to really force a downshift, engine will rev freely up to redline with no resistance once it downshifts. If I let the rpm drop down, it will catch and lock back in. Now when I come to a stop the truck has a very lopey and rough idle and will stall once I come to a complete stop. It will stay running if I give it gas. In neutral and park the engine still has a lopey idle and is rough. Will possibly die at times. Sounds smooth and perfect when you rev it in neutral or park. Reacts as it should with no hesitations. No check engine light and no flashing OD light. Will shift into all gears, just moves through them with no power. Let truck sit for 3 hours, issue remains.
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2004 Jetta 1.8 bought mainly as a parts car w /204K miles on it. Ran and drove fine, but the tranny had no 1st gear. Tried all sorts of things other than going inside the transmission and figured it is/was a bent shift fork. Clutch worked perfectly. Had another 02J tranny from 2003 1.8, so we swapped trannys. Could not get any response from the clutch.
Start the car in neutral and it won't disengage enough to shift into gear. Start it in gear with clutch pedal in and it is obviously slipping/burning/chattering. Have bled the slave cylinder to no end, have reverse pressurized it into the reservoir , etc, etc. Made up a block off plate to go over the end of the slave actuator and when the actuator is "blocked" from moving the clutch pedal is rock solid hard. Yet, the clutch acts as if the actuator isn't extending far enough. Have swapped out the original slave cylinder with the one from the '03, no change.
Removed tranny yesterday to check the condition of the throw out bearing and pivot and Pressure plate. All appeared fine. Reinstalled tranny and same issue.
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My car is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 6 cylinder all wheel drive. Had an issue with the transmission continually dropping down a gear when keeping the car at about 35mph... no codes were showing nor any lights on the dash were on indicating a problem... dealer said the catalytic converter was the problem. changed it and it did not fix the problem...brought the car back to them and they said it now is showing a code and the service engine light is now on... the code showed that the Crank Sensor and the Throttle Position Sensor were bad... I asked why they had to change the cat and they explained
That they had to change the catalytic converter to get the correct "back pressure" so the computer would then recognize the actual problem and would direct them to the real issue... They assured me the cat was bad...in other words they had to change the cat out or they would not have found the problem... I think i got scammed and they really didn't know what they were doing and it cost me a bunch of money... is there any connection with the cat and those two sensors that could cause this scenario?
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My GTi has little over 18k on the clock and it will be a year old on Thursday. Coming back home from work last Friday i floored it @ around 3 rpm in 6th, and i got clutch slippage.
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I have a 2010 gti with stage 2 tune, and mk6 clutch starting to slip? i have 30,000 miles, i am starting to do my research on the clutches. I am also looking in to just replacing the clutch disk, and i am wondering it just the clutch disk will hold up?
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Over the past few months there have been maybe 5-10 times where if I'm starting out in first gear on a hill, I hear a whining noise when I let the clutch out.
I took it to the dealer the other day, and the dealer said they've seen this before and would replace the clutch. Next day they call me and say the slave cylinder is leaking, so they have to replace that too. It has 11k miles on it (I don't drive much).
2010 GTI manual transmission.....
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