Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 TDI Started To Misfire When Going Easy On Throttle
Apr 29, 2011
My 2010 Sportwagen TDI has recently started to misfire. This only seems to happen when I'm going easy on the throttle. It also seems to happen after about 10 seconds after I've come to a stop and began moving again. It only appears to misfire once, then it goes away for a couple of minutes, then it sometimes returns. I haven't been able to track it to a specific RPM, speed, or gear, but it does seem to be more frequent around 1600-2000 RPM and about 30 mph. It feels more pronounced in the lower gears, but this is probably due to the gear ratio effect. There are no engine lights. I have not taken it in for a dealer scan. It has 32,000 miles, I always use name-brand diesel along with Diesel Kleen at every fuel up.
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Bad coil pack after 8k. Was getting a misfire on cyl 1 under heavy throttle so I swapped the coil with cyl 4 and the misfire is on cyl 4 now.
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So took the Car out for a short while and was on my way back and car started to misfire, yep cylinder #2. So ordered a set of 6 and 6 new spark plugs hopefully they will arrive soon this week. I know they have the recall but i doubt VW will give me the money for 6 Coil Packs. Anyway end of useless rant. Just felt like posting..........R'S rule
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I have a mkv r32 turbo. It had C2 910cc software, car ran great. I had to change to UM 870cc software and injectors in order to get UM dsg stage 3 tune. I had it out for test ride, ran nicely for 2 miles. Then i started to increase throttle, a loud back fire, so i pulled over. It stalled, i restarted it, ran for about 5 secs at 14.5 afr, then sputtered to 10s afr, the stalled out completely.
Had it towed home, all 6 plugs were black. VCSD mobile log states multiple misfire and misfire #6. I put new plugs and switched coil packs, same issue.
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My R has 56k on it. it sat for just over a year and a half and i just got it back on the road a week ago. Two days ago i started it to pull it on my rack and change the oil and it was making a rattling/chattering noise. The noise was going away when i pushed the clutch in but not anymore and the noise goes away in the higher rpm's. on the way home it threw a code and the check engine light came on and with throttle it started making an awful squealing noise. I am kinda scared to drive it.... I guess ill start pulling the motor, transmission or both tomorrow...
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My engine started shuddering rather considerably a few days ago, seems to be misfiring. Happens both while idling and accelerating. Thought it could be a bad spark plug, and was prepared to replace them. Which is doable, but not easy, considering they're not very accessible with this particular engine. But when I lifted the plastic cover off the engine to take a look, I noticed this tube (circled in picture) had been worn away considerably in one spot. In fact, it's barely attached.
Now I'm no expert, but I've read that a leaking or disconnected vacuum hose can cause exactly the type of issue I'm experiencing. I'm wondering if the object pictured is in fact a vacuum tube. Might that be the issue? If so, how easy would it be to repair it myself? I'm not very experienced with making my own repairs, but I'm good with a set of tools, as long as I have instructions.
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Going to clean egr and throttle on my golf mk6 tdi. Can I just unscrew the three screws that holds the egr on the manifold, or if I need to dismantle more parts?
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'13 model. I checked the vehicle customization to have the setting on but I noticed that the driver seat has stop moving assisting easy exit feature. The steering wheel is tilting however. Should I check with the dealer?
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I have a 2010 RX350 base model, no navi...
I turned off the "easy entry/exit function" and when I turn off the car the steering wheel still automatically moves into the most upward position. It's only suppose to do this with the function on.
Is something broken? Should I get this fixed?
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So while driving yesterday I had a EPC and Check eng light come on and go away shortly after... maybe 1hr of drive time. Any way I took into dealer today to have them scan and they stated it was an issue with my throttle body.
Now as soon as he told me that he also said he can not do any work under warranty on my engine due to Stage 2 software and intake/down&mid pipe...... no big deal as I figured he would say something like that anyway. Should I take it apart and try to get it cleaned..... or what?
Its a 2010, with roughly 21k miles.... Had APR stage 2 for a few months now and this is the first thing that has come up.
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I don't put many miles on my car, so even though I'm going on 2 years my 2010 GTI (6 speed manual) only has 11k miles on it. Over the last few months I have notice that when starting out in first gear on a hill, as I let the clutch out I will sometimes (not always) hear a squealing noise that isn't insanely loud but definitely noticeable and sounds like a cross between chewbacca and an elephant. It goes away once the clutch is fully let out and I start moving. Over the last couple days I've noticed a hesitation in the throttle occasionally, as if the power is just dying. But, the rpms don't suddenly rev up when this happens (as I would expect if the clutch were slipping). It just feels like the power is dying and hitting the gas has no effect -- the car just slows down. Happened today in 4th gear going about 45 mph -- car just started to slow. 5-10 seconds later it recovered.
Could this all be due to my clutch? If so, can it be adjusted or does it require a new clutch? It's under warranty. Problem is it's intermittent and I just know I'll drive all the way out to the dealer and it won't do it on command. I am APR stage 1. But I don't drive hard at all.
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Had car flashed a little under a month ago to stage one. Car has 33k on it. Only other mods are the stage one Carbino. Weather has been extremely cold (5-15 degrees). Noticed a few days ago in 4th gear at WOT car was sputtering, acting almost as if the clutch was slipping. Last night, thinking it was the clutch, tried a 4th gear pull up a hill from 2000 RPM, car damn near stalls.
Today, heading home car goes into limp mode and barely got it in the driveway. Very rough idle pulling both the EPC and CEL codes P0300, P0301, and P130A. Below is the file from VCDS. After some searching it appears this may be coil pack related, it's too cold to start switching them around at the moment, but I wanted some keener eyes to see the info I pulled. I am considering replacing the packs with the R8's and getting new NGK plugs just to see what happens.
Address 01: Engine (CCT) Labels: 06J-906-026-CCT.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 115 AM HW: 1K0 907 115 AA
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0030
Revision: AAH07--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403010A18070160
[Code] ......
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I've got a 2000 accent 1.5, and I keep getting a code for a cylinder 3 misfire, when I change the spark plugs, it runs great for about 50 miles or so, then back to square one again. I just changed the coil pack the other day and there doesn't seem to be much of a difference. It has massive hesitation under heavy throttle, and the check engine light begins to blink if it sits and idles for too long. I've scanned it multiple times and it's always been cylinder 3, so it's definitely set on that one... I'm about stumped on what this could be. Also, the previous owner said that after a hot day of driving, the ECU fuse under the hood will blow out, what could cause either one of these things?
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2 002 Jetta Bad misfire P0301 a bit long. 02 jetta gls with 2.0 AVH engine auto trans. over summer my brother overheated it & blew head gasket & valves. All parts listed are new between aug and now. I repaired engine as follows new head & bolts head gasket timing belt water pump coolant flange on drivers side new fuel rail and injectors car also has new coil pack, new VW plug wires and 1 week ago new iridium plugs my brother didn?t want car, so i bought it from him. Ran great after I rebuilt top end.
Car did 140 on the turnpike & ran great. once or twice while giving moderate to high throttle CEL would flash and I pulled P0300 as a pending code. Problem stopped after 2 days. last week after 4 hrs of idling(don't ask) started misfiring and CEL flashes constantly P0301 The misfire seems worse at idle and low speed. Car will get to highway speed but has bad pickup. This is what I?ve done/checked New iridium plugs Plug wires 4.5 ohms Coil pack is good and producing enough spark at each wire MAF sensor cleaned Cyl 1 compression good all injectors are clicking and when disconnected cause appropriate CEL error code Brought car to VW dealer for diagnosis VAG COM shows multiple misfire on cyl 1 Mechanic confirmed all the steps I took and components tested ok. He tried new coil pack, new plug and wire for cyl 1 and no change.
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I'm usually over in the EX forum but today was working on my brothers 1998 F150 - V8 4.6L. Had the EGR code P0401 and due to FTE I found the problem took the throttle body off and found it was definitely plugged. One of the bolts was really loose and came off way to easily. Didn't realize until cleaning why... Now I drilled 8 studs out of my aluminum EX heads but this one has me pondering how I'm going to clamp this thing down and center a bit..
1st pic - ports WOW - guessing this was the problem ...
2nd pic - bigger issue ...
3rd pic - the ports cleaned up ...
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Obviously its not a good thing, but this seems a little severe for a truck that hasnt had any issues prior. The truck is a 1998 F150 4.6 and was running just fine until POP!! A puff of grey smoke coming from the throttle body and followed by (obviously) a rough idle. So basically, I know that any metal fragments were directly sucked into the intake and based on the size of the chipped area (roughly 1.5cm). I am wondering what type of internal damage this would (or already has) caused.
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I readied my Prius and was backing out my driveway. The ICE started and was misfiring very badly, sounded like it was barely running, making all kinds of clatter.
I stopped, put the car in park, and the idle was very rough, sounded like it was trying to clear itself from being flooded. There were no warning lights or blinking check engine lights, so I drove off.
Heres where things get freaky. If I accelerated any more than 1/4 of the gas pedal, the car would buck and the ICE would shut off completely. Then when I let go of the gas, the ICE would start back up. If i feathered the gas lightly, the ICE would stay running. After the car warmed up, this behavior disappeared.
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I was driving down the road and the car was driving great. all of the sudden I heard a clunk and the car lost power and started shuddering. I made it home and cut the car off. When I start it now, the car runs rough and stalls out. I can't get it to a place to check the codes so I am trying to self diagnose. I was thinking it might be the MAF so I took it out and cleaned it well. there is still no change in the way the car runs. it seems like the fuel isn't getting to the engine as I put my foot on the gas pedal it stalls out. I'm not too excited about buying a throttle body if it's the MAF. It could possibly be something else.
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2008 Tundra 5.7 only 55K miles – What is causing an intermittent misfire at startup? It’s been running great, then 2 weeks ago when I started it up I could feel a misfire. By the time I backed out of the driveway the check engine light came on. This is what I have learned so far:
•It only happens when you start the engine and the engine is NOT at operating temperature.
•The engine code always reports misfire on Cylinder #2 I put in a new plug and swapped coils but it still reports the misfire on cylinder #2.
•Once it starts to misfire it will continue to misfire until the engine is at operating temperature and you restart the engine. NOTE: You MUST restart the engine for the misfire to go away. It will be running rough, turn engine off/on once it is at operating temperature and it's as smooth as can be, no more misfire.
•One time I started the truck, I felt the misfire and drove it to a parts store to read the code. Engine was fully warm by the time I reached the parts store. I did not power off the engine, plugged in the tester and read the code which was a misfire on cylinder 2. I cleared the code and within 2-3 seconds it logged the misfire on cylinder #2 again. Cleared the code several times and it kept reporting misfire on cylinder 2. You could also feel the misfire happening. Turned engine off, started it right back up, like before no misfire, cleared the code and it no longer reported a misfire.
•This just started intermittently happening. This morning it happened again, I drove it for about 5 min, engine was about 75% it’s normal operating temperature, powered it off/on, still had the misfire. Once engine temp reached normal temp (about 9 min), I turned off engine, started it back and like before problem was gone.
What is causing this to happen?
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Well It has been an expensive month for my Ex. New starter, Then a miss-fire. I ended up replacing all 10 plugs, and all 10 coils and I got ford coils.
Today I got in it, hit the ignition. It started for a split second and stalled. Went to go fire it up and well, its turning over faster then usual like its not getting any fuel or something. Now I am at the mercy of a local town shop, because the tow to the shop I run is about 450.00. I am thinking its the fuel pump... But we will know shortly.
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I am currently chasing misfire codes that started out on cylinder 5 p0305 was the first code I replaced spark plugs and wires about 200 miles the code returned checked coil with meter it was barley in spec. I have replaced coil same code only difference was a hard start cold or hot replaced injectors now hard start is fixed but logging codes for right bank is to rich and p0300 304 305 and 306 also performed compression test on right bank and readings are 155 155 and 160...
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