Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Shaking At Start Up?
Oct 25, 2012
So recently when i start my car, morning or night, it has a bad idle. Car shakes and idles at like 1300 RPMs. After about 30 seconds it drops to around 800 and sits quietly. Other then that the car runs fine.
The CEL came on the other day for a few seconds then went away and didn't come back.
2010 GTI 6 speed stage 1 bsh intake stage 1 apr
The car was in the shop after my flash...2 bad ignition coild and 2 fuel injectors or something along those lines...can't remember.
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On a handful of occasions, when I start my 450H, there is a noticeable vibration that lasts a few minutes and goes away. It's usually happened on really cold days in Texas. This morning, it was very warm, it didn't vibrate but made some click sounds for several minutes. I'm still under warranty...
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We have had a few mornings (in garage) where it would seem to not really id say a knock but maybe a clicking sound and it would quit right away. This morning that did not happen so i shut the car off and checked oil it was low.
Got under the car and can not see any leaking no oil on ground. So i had a QT i put in and that seems to quiet it after a few seconds.
I called local TOY dealer and they said its common for 2010 to use some oil and not much they can do. I thought what is a little it was at the end of the dipstick.
They said they can only fill it up and then have me come back in 1400 miles and see how much is used.
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I purchased a new 2010 GTI on July 24, 2010, with the expectation it would be as reliable as every other VW.
I have owned. The following Tuesday, July 27, the car wouldn't turn over to start. I called VW roadside assistance and had the car towed to the nearest dealer. Due to several incorrect diagnosis and part shipping errors, I didn't get my ride back until the following.
Tuesday, August 3 after they reprogrammed the ECM. The car ran beautifully thereafter until the following Tuesday, August 10 when it failed to start exactly as before. The car is at Pignataro's again. I strongly suspect there is a defect in the circuit board or a component on the circuit board of the ECM. If this is the case, I feel the ECM should be replaced. The good news is that this failure didn't occur during a 3,000-mile road trip which is slated to begin August 20. I can only pray when it is returned to me the root cause of the problem has been completely corrected.
How often does such a major ECM issue show up on a new car? The degree to which cars these days depend on onboard computers to run the vehicle demands a high level of reliability and it seems my ECM may be something of a lemon.
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I noticed on my way to work this morning that while I was in Neutral, the whole car shakes. Like, I can feel the entire car shaking, as if there's a Semi next to me. Yet, when I put it Drive or Park, the shaking stops. If I leave the car in Drive, it also will not shake, only when I shift into Neutral. I did notice, that the Tachometer was in the ~600RPM range when the shaking was occurred.
This isn't the first time it's done it, it's happened before. It rarely does it, usually a while after the engine is running. And it's only once, if I run the car all day, it won't shake at all.
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From day one my 2012 Prius 3 has had a shake that starts at 63mph and goes away at 69mph. Sometimes it's worse then others. I can feel it in the steering wheel and the floor broards. I took it back to the dealer and they said they felt it but couldn't find anything wrong. They actually put new wheels and tires on it! It seemed alright for while but I noticed it again the other day, I don't drive that speed that often. I'm either below or above it but the other day I got caught in traffic doing 65 and noticed it right away. I made a new appt this next week at the dealer again. It's not real bad just more annoying then anything. I searched on here but couldn't find anything.
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My 2010 Prius engine shakes/vibrates when the engine is showing between 50-75 MPG on the gauge/meter on the dashboard. There is no vibration when coasting (100 MPG on the gauge/meter on dashboard) or when I am accelerating pretty modestly. Only when accelerating very softly. It started a month or so after I had my spark plugs replaced at 133K miles last June 2015. It has gotten progressively worse. It is especially noticeable once the engine is warm or the outside temperature is warm. During the winter months the vibration was there slightly, but not nearly as noticeable as it is becoming now that warmer weather is here.
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My wife recently got stuck in a snowstorm. Some people got her out and she drove a couple miles to work. After leaving work, her car started shaking at red lights (like big, slow shakes, back and forth, not making forward progress), but stopped as soon as she started to move or put the car in neutral. It did this on her way home from work and then continued when she left for a workout class about half an hour later. However, after this, it stopped completely.
Some people seemed to suggest engine mount problems to other people, which seems serious if it is that. However, since it did stop after a short time, is it possible there was snow stuck somewhere causing a problem and it finally just melted off? Or is the getting stuck in snow the same day probably just a coincidence? It seems odd that it would stop once the brake is let up.
Right now I'm planning to take it in sometime later this week most likely, but am wondering if I can avoid that since it hasn't exhibited any of the same symptoms for a few days. The car is a 2010 Chevy Cobalt.
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The past week I drove the 1800miles. This afternoon I went out, pushed power button, get out and clean windshield off and ICE turns on with this clunk clunk noise, shook the car like a sob too. Checked oil and it showed a clear metallic gray/Black tint with end the light tan oil.
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I have a 2012 Elantra that I bought used with 15,000 miles on it. Since the day I bought it I have had different issues with it but one of my huge issues is that when in idle at a light or sitting still anywhere my car shakes like someone is bouncing a basketball in it. I have taken it to the dealership multiple times and they have replaced PCV Valve and cleaned it before replacing it and they have done some other things as well to it. I have gone to just talking to the service manager every time I go to service because I have taken my car in for the same issue every time!! I usually wait til there are multiple reason to go to the dealership before I take it back in because they never fix the issue!!
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I have a 2016 Elantra that was bought brand new in October of last year. Since about January, the front end of the car bucks when taking your foot off the accelerator to slow down. The brakes do not need to be applied to cause this to happen. When I say it bucks, it happens repeatedly for 3-5 seconds and everyone in he car can feel it. This happens mainly when going at speeds of 20-30 mph and when going short distances such as stop sign to stop sign or in bumper to bumper traffic. If I put the car in neutral the bucking instantly stops. Unfortunately this doesn't happen every day so the dealer has not been able to replicate it as of yet.
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I've had an intermittent problem on my DSG GTI. It will crank about 5 - 10 seconds before it turns over. It doesn't happen all the time. I've also noticed it stalling out after start up occasionally.
After several trips to my lame dealer they can't find anything wrong or duplicate the problem.
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Twice now, I've been parked on a very slight hill, nose up, the diesel levels are less than a quarter tank but still over the low level warning. When I start the car, it starts but then shuts off within a few seconds, the second time I try, it turns but no start, and then it basically shuts off and doesn't even turn. Both times, I've coasted down the hill a bit because it becomes flat and then it can start. I asked the dealership about it but they said I self diagnosed it.. and they didn't even look at it further.
I've never had this problem with any other VW I've owned in the pass. So far this car is starting to disapoint me.. mileage wise, it's fine and I love the wagon part but I've been having lots of small problems arise. My warranty is about to expire in another 15000km's and I'm wondering if I should even bother keeping it. It's my main car and I travel with it a lot for work. (65 000km's on it in 20 months). However, I'm finding it hard even thinking of another car to replace my VW.
(2010 VW golf wagon diesel)
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I'm four weeks into my 2010 LX570. From first day, I've had vibration/shaking at all speeds--the shaking/vibration is not in the steering wheel like a few others have described. The vibration/shaking is similar to what one experiences going over a railroad track in a small/lightweight vehicle, except it happens on all types of roads and at all speeds.
Two trips to two different tire installers and one trip to Toyota (the closest Lexus dealer is a couple hours for me) to speak with their Lexus-certified mechanic and it was chalked up to the Dunlop tires. The Dunlops had excessive road force (three were between 28 and 45). Three separate sessions with Lexus Customer Relations, and nearly two weeks with Lexus of Orlando (they were extraordinary, even though I did not purchase from them), all four tires were replaced with Michelins, road force balanced to less than 8 each, and the vehicle extensively tested. They bent over backwards and were exceptional. While the problem has been minimized, I still feel the vibration/shake.
I'm coming out of years with several Range Rovers, but every other vehicle I have does not vibrate/shake, from my Tundra on up. I just spent two weeks in an ES300 and it was rock solid, at half the weight and half the cost. Additionally, none of my Land Cruisers (previous generation to the current) were anything like this. The LX is a great vehicle, but the vibration/shake is a real issue.
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I have had 2 gx470's perfect - new 2011 gx460 constantly vibrating when driving. Michelin tires perfect not the tires they are saying this is the way they feel. Now impossible - constantly feeling the road and all shaking.
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I have 2011 RX AWD and noticed when driving downhill and braking, car will shake. It feels like the wheels are shaking but the steering wheel does not. Is it rotors or something else?
Also RX is certified pre owned warranty for another 30k miles and I want to do alignment on it but not sure if warranty will cover that ?
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I have just bought a camry-LE 2010 that has high millage on it which is 120,000mi. when i tested the car, it seemed fine but after long drive I discoverer something. When i am driving at speed 45 - 50 and stabilize the pressing of the accelerator, I feel the car shaking for few second then return back to its normal mode . I do not why I feel something wrong with the engine.
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I have a 2010 prius and today when i was driving the car it started shaking every time I brake and after a little bit. I realized that the car was having trouble shifting from battery to engine and engine to battery and once the battery runs out the car shuts off and when I start it again it starts in engine mode and charges the battery..
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I've noticed that when accelerating from a stop and turning onto an adjacent street to the left or right, there seems to be stuttering or shaking coming from the engine. I'm usually in ECO and only 1/3 of the way into the "engine half" zone on the HSI. It's not consistent but has become a bit of an annoyance.
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Currently working on a friends 2011 Prius with roughly ~340,000 miles (!!!!!) that was used as a taxi, until now, he bought it from the taxi company and converted it his own daily.
I did a regular oil change on his Prius, and decided to change the spark plugs as at the time there was some sort of occasional shaking/rattle at cold startups. The shaking was gone after changing the spark plugs. This was all done back in March. Yesterday, he was driving, and all of a sudden, the knocking came back, a check engine light, and white like cloud smoke appear. Check Engine lights were P0300, P0301, P0303 (misfire cylinder). I told him to bring it over, I took a look, and his invertor engine coolant was all the way down (he told me he filled it up to top just two weeks ago). I originally thought maybe it was the ignition coils (for shaking), but the white smoke didn't make sense. So I purposely filled the coolant above the full line, and took it out to drive for about half a mile, and just as I suspected when I opened the hood, the coolant level decreased, at least by an inch.
I did not see any oil leaks, and the oil levels were just fine. The car just seems to shake/rattle at startup and when accelerating at low speeds (roughly 8 - 15 MPH) and than goes away, and drives normally. It still does blow off that white/cloud smoke when accelerating hard on the engine though. As for the smell of the smoke, I can't really tell, it is definitely not sweet, but it kind of smells foul/bad.
At this point, I am pretty sure this engine is gone, and the gasket/seal is blown.
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I have noticed, in my 2012 Elantra with 32,000 miles on it, that my car is shaking at idle. I'll be at a red light or stop sign and the vibration is SUPER annoying. I have had it tested at a Hyundai Dealership. They couldn't "replicate the problem" and nothing it wrong with my car.
I may be trading this car in for the Veloster Turbo. I'm tired of how slow this car is. I know I sacrificed speed for gas mileage, but I have a question, does the Veloster have this problem as well?
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