Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Running Rough / Timing - P0016 Code Comes On
Sep 6, 2015
So about six months ago I bought a used 2010 mkvi gti from a small dealer. Now here's my problem. The other day i started my car and it was a rough start. And the car ran rough. I stalled twice trying to back up. Then the car threw a light. I didnt drive it at all. Shut it off and left it. Read the code that night. P0016
Now I know the timing tensioner thing has been beaten to death. So that's my first thought. However, there was never a rattle or a noise. Nothing like that. Is it possible? All four cylinders have compression. About 210psi. I don't know if that is good or bad. Plugs are worn but look good enough. Not too much junk on them. Coil packs look "newer" and they are the "upgraded" versions. Other than the tensioner what else could cause a p0016 failt?
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After timing belt change code P0016 with Check engine light trac off and VSC light on.
Put on the entire kit...timing belt,tensioner, idler, and water pump. When I took it apart to put the new cam crank sensor I inspected everything and all looked good.
Changed the sensor and reset code, a few hours later back on. Car seems to run fine. I didn't think the sensor was bad. Car was running great...just due for timing belt.
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I just changed the timing belt on my sisters car and finished yesterday and drove it today. A check engine light came on so I went to check it out and P0016 popped up. I've done some research and people say that it might be that the timing belt is misaligned or loose. I tightened the belt not too tight but not too loose. Note: I also spilled coolant on the crankshaft pulley and a bit on the belt itself. The car idles rough when driving too. I will tomorrow take off the cover and check the tension of the belt.
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Had the stem seals replaced on my 2004 toyota camry 4 cylinder (2az-fe engine). The job went quickly and the realigned both camshaft marks to the respective yellow link and #1 and #2 bearing marks per the manual. However, now getting a P0016 error indicating timing is a bit off. It is difficult to verify that the top camshafts are aligned correctly to the crankshaft without taking off the side cover. Doing that is a 6 hour job and requires an engine lift.
Is there any easier, surefire way to check and adjust the timing on this engine without having to take off the side cover? It is probably just a tooth off since it is running well.
The attached pictures show how it was aligned before buttoning up.
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My brother-in-law brought me his 2004 Trailblazer that had an extremely rough idle and would die if ya thought about the air conditioner and all! So he had replaced the cam sensor, didn't work. He replaced the spark plugs didn't work. He replaced the fuel filter didn't work. So he asked me about it and ran across a fella talking about the CAM ACTUATOR SOLENOID and explained all about what to look for and such and low and behold new solenoid later purrs like a new one!!! It is look right above the power steering pump there is a plug in the side of the engine there with electric wires running to it.
One of the signs of being bad is oil inside that 2 wire plug just pull it off and look in it. Now to remove it you will have to take the power steering pump loose so it will move back out of the way so you can pull the solenoid out of the engine if ya get it out look on the end there are grooves running around it with little screens on them see if any are gone or coming apart, this usually sets a P0016 code which is stuff interfering with the sensors inside. If there is any oil in the plug or any screens missing then it will have to be replaced.
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2001 Jetta GLX, 12v 2.8 VR6 Automatic, 157k miles.
Relevant Info: P0411 code, unknown if associated with my slightly rough idle and recently reduced mileage (down by 3-4 MPG). I see 2 N80 valves, one by the power steering reservoir and one behind the throttle body attached to the fire wall. I removed them both, got a tiny bit of what may have been charcoal out of the lower valve and tested both with a 9 volt battery. Both were closed with no power and open when I attached the battery. I cleared the code and it returns within 30 minutes.
Possibly irrelevant info:
Changed the timing chains 3 weeks ago and the code popped up just afterward. Prior to changing the chains, all I saw was a Cam Position Sensor code that is now clear. The slightly rough idle was present to a greater degree before chains were changed but has improved.
SAI solenoids look good but their little rubber hoses don't look fantastic. Could this contribute to the rough idle or is it not part of the vacuum system?
Ignition coil is new and all plug wires tested to about 6k ohms.
I've looked up other's experience with P0411's and have seen the list of possible causes. Wondering if I'm missing a possible cause, if I can test the system further without having to buy parts etc, if the reduced mpg's and rough idle are related...
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I have a mk4 r32 with 110,000 miles and I'm throwing a p0016 code witch I believe is cam position sensor my timing chains and guides were changed at 90k car runs good and if I erase the code it doesn't come on right away maybe every 200-500 miles:confused could this just be a bad cam sensor there is also no oil leaking from them and they are tight.
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My mechanic (also my Brother - certified dodge mechanic) says he might have put timing belt in backwards (as in the side that is supposed to be facing left, is facing right and vice versa). I dont want him to have to do the whole job over again unnecessarily.
I do have the codes P0016, P0018 (Camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor correlation) and of course a check engine light. Otherwise the vehicle is running great, no timing issues that I can notice.
This is a 2006 GX470 4.7L V8 2UZ-FE engine.
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In the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
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124k, original owner, no mods. Car was running rough and stumbling a bit. A bunch of codes came up. I replaced coils because I had them, spark plugs look good. One code came back p0103. I cleaned the throttle butterfly and replaced the maf sensor. Still same problem.
When I first start it cold it idles high but stays running , once it warms a little the idle drops and then it won't stay running. Then the traction control light comes on and then the cel. I checked for a vacuum leak but came up with nothing.
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I changed the timing chain, phasers, tensioners, guides, and cam sensors and solenoids about 30k miles ago. Truck now has 170k miles. This past weekend engine started running so rough, it had the whole front end shaking. Threw 8 codes..1 bank..lean, bank 2 rich, timing retarded, cylinder G and F misfire, and more codes. It seems to have jumped timing pretty bad.
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I recently replaced timing belt and balance belt on my 2004 santa fe 2.4l and now the engine runs like crap and shakes badly. I went over all timing marks again and again and I am at a loss.
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Just did the timing chain, phasers, oil pump and lash adjusters on my 05 5.4 s-crew. Always had a bit of a rough idle but now it's worse. If the truck idles for an extended period it sets a p0300. Just off idle the misfire is gone. It does seem a touch down on power but otherwise runs great. I did have the plugs out during the work. I cleaned them, applied anti seize and re installed. The previous owner had the plugs and COPs changed 10k miles ago. Plugs are motorcraft and coils are aftermarket.
I monitored with oreillys crappy scan tool and the miss only happens at idle. It is not a dead miss; unplugging COP on each cylinder still makes it worse.
Truck idles warm at like 570 rpm and if I hold my foot on the pedal to raise rpm a bit miss goes away.
Each cylinder is logging misfire counts with no rhyme or reason. The only thing odd during the timing job was 4 spark plugs were partially loose.
I'm sure the timing is correct; I used the OTC crank tool and for timing kit. Truck has 150k, front 02s are fairly new...
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The car is giving me P0016 and P0017 codes. I have read up on them, and it appears 17 could point to 16 being the culprit. Regular service, oil changes when the car says it is time. Vehicle has 90k miles. This is the 4 cyl engine. So, what am I most likely looking at? One or both sensors? Basically, is there a common problem associated with this vehicle and these codes that I can begin looking at?
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I have a 2006 Prius with over 300k miles. I recently started getting the crankshaft/cam position code P0016. The car is driving fine, but it does burn about a quart of oil every 800 miles. It looks like a lower mileage engine can be had for about $500-600 including freight. I'm thinking my best option is probably to swap out the engine. I saw our local resident expert Wong suggested replacing the transaxle too when doing an engine replacement since it does not add any significant labor and tends to be a more common source of problems than the engine. I'm not sure how much doing that would add to the bottom line.
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P0016 - Crankshaft Position | Camshaft Position Correlation
Bank 1 Sensor A
2006 Passat - 3.6L V6
Here is my issue: I was lazy and waited a bit too long to get my oil changed. I finally did 3 days ago. I have been very busy so I decided to take it to a local mechanic to let them take care of it. They flushed the oil, ran other oil through it with a new oil filter, flushed that, then put in new synthetic oil with another new oil filter. They also replaced the air filter.
Everything was fine for 2 days.
Then, while I was driving in stop and go traffic, the "EPC" and "Engine Malfunction" lights came on. There was also a loss of power and the car seems to wait too long to shift gears.
So, I took it back to the mechanic who had it a few days prior. He pulled the code from it (posted at the top), and cleared the code from the car. That mechanic told me that I need a "cam position indicator sensor". He also claimed that what he did had nothing to do with this issue. I decided to check with the dealer. He cleared the code and I left. After clearing the code, the car drove fine for most of that day, then it returned.
I spoke with the VW dealership's shop manager and he said that he does not believe that is the issue at all and asked me to bring it in. He also mentioned a clogged oil line as being the potential culprit.
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Some technical issues here. Had the intake manifold replaced under extended warranty ('09 2.0 TSI, 115,000km); they cleaned out the carbon as well. There were all sorts of codes it was throwing, despite having new coils and plugs installed.
One more thing to do. I still have Crank Position Sensor code showing. Car runs fine (much better now actually),but I was told if I don't get this last code looked after, one day the car just won't start.
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I just wanted to post this due to the problem I was having with this code. I recently replaced a broken timing belt on my 2005 pt cruiser (non-turbo). Everything went back together, minus the hours trying to get the timing marks lined up by myself. After getting the engine buttoned up, the car would crank and idle, but only after 2000 rpm and the engine code P0016 would show up. I went back into the engine, reset the timing belt, and cranked it before putting everything back together. Worked fine, so buttoned it back up and took it for a test drive.
Bam, same engine code pops up again, only this time the car acted like it wanted to go into limp mode for half a second after driving for a few miles when I was turning around to come back to the house. It straightened up and drove fine. I could drive the car fine even after that, made a few test drives into town. The car would kind of fight limp mode after first cranking the car and accelerating, but then straighten up.
After a couple of months of research and talking to a friend who is a pretty good mechanic, I decided this was an electrical problem. I checked, and sure enough, after looking at the wiring at the cam shaft sensor connector, it was frayed. I spliced it and still had some issues with the code. I had just put a new sensor on it when the belt broke thinking it might be the sensor, so I put the old sensor back on it and now it runs fine, no more light. So, after months of thinking the timing or tone rings might be off, it was just a wiring/sensor issue.
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I have a 2011 ecoboost with 69000 miles and I am starting to get the dreaded P0016 code along with the occasional P0299. I am almost done making payments on it but I am hesitant about sinking the kind of money that it takes to repair the timing issues. SO the big question, is it worth keeping and making the repair or should I trade it and get a new 2016??
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When checking my check engine light , I got P0021 a cam timing error, but my mk4 Gti runs perfectly ??
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I have a 2003 Ford Taurus. It has been running rough for awhile. It doesn't happen all the time, alas. I took it to my local repair guy. They first said, oh this happens when the AC is on. But I knew it happened otherwise.
The check engine light came on yesterday, blinking, but didn't stay on. And it was running rough. Check engine light came on, on a Sunday so I had to wait until Monday to bring the car in. They just called and said they can't find anything wrong, ran it on the computer, says it's running fine. I said, did you check the spark plugs, wires, etc? (I am good at googling, to be armed with some kind of info)
I am thinking they just put it on the computer. I suppose it has to be running bad to show anything (?) and even then, it's no guarantee. Anyway. It seems like I am "sentenced" to driving this car until it strands me, catches on fire (I read about that possibility and I have on occasion smelled something burning), or if luck has it, when it is running rough, and I bring it in while it's running rough, the computer finds the problem.
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