When I purchased my 2010 mk6 about 3 weeks ago there was a noise in the dash board when ever the RPM's pasted 5,000 It sounds like a rattling noise from the intake or something. So i put a stage 2 APR intake, Magnaflow cat back exhaust and a AWE tune. After all that work the rattling noise is still there and is driving me crazy. I love the car but there's gotta be a way to get rid off the noise ...
View 9 RepliesI was running in a track day at Sebring today and missed a shift. Rookie move...the car eventually went into limp mode. I took the car back to the pits and scanned the codes. Limp mode was confirmed in addition to a cylinder 4 misfire and a random/intermittent misfire. Cleared the codes and went back out; couldn't even finish the lap before the car was thrown back into limp mode.
I was able to hobble home by keeping the car out of boost and started trouble shooting. So far I have ruled out spark plugs and coils. Should I be looking at the injector next? Any chance I bent a valve? The misfire can be triggered by putting the car under a load and bringing it up to 5,000 RPMs or higher.
My CW R has 12k of combined mileage primarily in D/S with some aggressive Topanga Canyon driving in M. While sprinting onto the 405 the other night a resonant metallic buzz/vibration was audible between 4800-5000rpms in 3rd & 4th gear! The sound is coming from below the shifter console area. I can't reproduce it in any other gears or rpm range.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2011 GTI, with an apr chip and apr intake stage 1. Car is brand new 4000 miles
When hitting boost in 3rd-6th gear i hear a fluttering sound between 3500rpm and 5000rpm after 5000rpm the sound either dissipates or is drowned out by the motor.
I've done a lot of research around this sound and i havent been able to find a certain answer, it could be compression surge (i wouldn't see why), a leaky DV ( also cant see why because the 2011 has the new revision D piston actuated DV), A fluttering wastegate.
Sage 1 apr chip and stage 1 apr intake...
Earlier I was driving and some reason I just wanted to rev my car up. So I did and all of a sudden my car cuts off at around 5000 rpms.
View 5 RepliesOk, I was driving down the interstate in my 2002 Ford Escape XLT 4X4 and I noticed my rpm's reved to about 5000 from my cruising rpm of 2200 and it was as if it went into neutral. I coasted with engine running fine to the right shoulder and called a tow truck to the nearest dealer. No reverse, D, 2 or 1 only Park that worked.
View 14 RepliesHow to reset service light? 5000 miles ....
View 4 RepliesMy Prius is now 4 months old and has just just over 5000 miles on it. The Oil Maintenance message is showing in the display. I was told that oil change intervals were 10,000miles.
View 19 RepliesI'm hoping it's nothing, maybe bad gas.
View 6 RepliesYesterday had 5000 miles/6 months service performed on 2015 3500 miles AWD RX-350. Right after leaving the dealer felt that steering wheel is too light. After some driving it returned to normal, but with very light shimmer during driving (40-50 ml/h) and stops . Today was backing up from garage and shaking was much more noticeable when reversed and parked, also it was some kind of (I think) engine roar. After that drove almost 30 miles with some steering wheel light shimmering, but no other issues.
Is it normal car behavior, and I'm just paranoid ? Or, if there is a potential problem, what could trigger it, and how it could be resolved?
Got my car back from dealer for 5000 miles service. On the way home I heard there was some weird noise under the hood. It sounds like some very thick heavy motor oil dripping on the pan intermittently.
View 7 Replies230 miles and I have one question. I'm braking in the R slowly and haven't really hit the RPM's in a crazy way but when I go from say 3000-5000 RPM I hear a vibration along with the nice sounding exhaust. It happens in each gear if i take it that high.
I'm thinking it's maybe a heat shield or something? Have any of you experienced this or maybe have heard of this symptom.
Other than this issue, the car is the bomb! My R is not numbered? Isn't the number on the steering wheel?
My GTI has started to bog out, i guess is the best way to describe... As I am trying to accelerate on the highway my RPMs rev up to 5000 till I get any response to amount of gas I am giving. It will dramatically drop to 3000 without letting off the gas. then gradually will accelerate, untypical to way it use to perform. She respond this way cold or hot.
View 7 RepliesGot my CPO 2012 RX350 in July, everything has been great
winter has been tough here in the north with -30 Celsius (-22 F) every other week. when it's that cold there's squeaking noise from the dashboard / windshield area. mainly from the intersection of both.
Once the car is out of the garage it's ok for a few minutes then noise starts. this only happens if the weather is colder than -10 C (14 F) (i can't blame the car as my bones squeak when it's colder than-10 ) This is definitely an expansion/contraction issue.
The dealer indicated that they will have to remove the dashboard to fix the problem and recommended that I wait towards the end of the warranty, observe other issues and fix all at once as multiple removal of the dashboard may bring new problems (i.e. snapped pieces may get loose).
We have a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe. Over the last year, there has been a humming noise that comes out of the front passenger side under the dashboard. This humming noise starts when the car is in motion (above say 5mph) and then lasts presumably at highway speeds but the road noise sort of block it out. When we come to a stop, the humming noise persists about 5 seconds after we come to a complete stop and then goes away. I checked the tire and it's not rubbing anything and tire pressures are even. We had the tires rotated but the noise still comes from the front passenger side. We had a wheel alignment and the noise still persists. There are no issues with steering or braking.
I think it's probably related to the strut or suspension system? Is there a pump in the area? It's been a year and we've sort of gotten used to the noise, and nothing's broken.
I recently traded my 2012 GS 350 for a 2015 GX 460. It's more my type of vehicle, and I am loving it except for a noise under the dashboard that seems to be somewhere behind the instrument cluster.
The noise is more of a ticking sound, and if I had to guess, it seems to be a wiring harness in that mesh-type wrapping that's moving around. I hear mostly over bumps in the road, but it also shifts when I accelerate from a stop. Unfortunately, the area where I'm hearing this is inaccessible without removing the dash.
Below is a link to a dash cam video I shot with the noise.
Lexus GX 460 Dash Rattle - YouTube
I have an RX 450H and noticed that there is a squeaking sound coming from the dashboard. I looked at other posts where people were experiencing similar issues and noticed one post where someone had a GS 450H and fixed this issue by adding felt between the dashboard and the windscreen.
I would like to know whether this method works 100% and whether I can apply this method to the RX 450H. The noise becomes worse when it is cold and especially when the car is being driven over rough road surfaces and speed bumps.
So my car started doing some weird things. at idle and only at idle it will go up and down between 1100 and 1500 rpm. No throttle input no clutch input or brake input. I do have a CEL on but when I read the code it gives me 01314 on brake electronics setting. I'm using a vchecker pro. I go into all the engine brake airbag and trans menus and do clear fault codes and this fixes it but id like to know what the actual problem is.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Dodge RAM Hemi Laredo pickup. Love it. Currently 34k miles. Have kept up with all maintenance. Since about 3k miles, I have intermittently heard a "grinding" noise at about 1400-1500 rpm. Usually while accelerating going up hill/inclines. Assumed it had to do with automatic gear shifting. Have reported this to dealer maintenance folks at each visit. They have reportedly not been able to identify the source, as they claim they do not hear it, despites numerous test drives. Everyone who drives with me has heard it!. I am concerned, as at 36k my full coverage for the transmission warranty expires. Incidentally, at 33,100 miles 2 broken studs were extracted from right exhaust manifold. A new exhaust manifold gasket and 2 new studs were replaced for a different niose. Are these related, or any clue about the "grinding" that I still frequently hear at 1400-1500 rpms?
View 9 RepliesBackground: I brought my R in for service last week because the AC stopped working. I ended up needing the compressor and the fans replaced. I picked my car up and drove it home with no problems. The next day I drove it I started to hear a rather loud buzzing noise that sounded like something was rattling loose from the front passenger side of the car behind the dashboard. It was loud enough to hear over the stereo while driving on the freeway.
Thinking something was wrong with the newly installed fans I brought the car back to the dealership and now they're telling me the fuel pump needs to be replaced. From what I understand, the fuel pump is in the back of the car under the rear seats and attached to the gas tank. I explained to them that I'm a bit confused because the sound is clearly coming from the front of the car but the mechanic there insists what I'm hearing is the fuel pump. Am I crazy or does what they're saying sound reasonable?
I tried looking at a couple YouTube videos that had sound of a VR6 fuel pump gone bad but the sound was nothing like what I was hearing.
I've got a '99 GMC Sonoma that I purchased last summer. Great little rig, runs well and the previous owner took care of it. In the last couple of days the headlights and dashboard display have been flickering at all RPMs. I am guessing a bad battery or alternator, but previous related posts indicate it could be all sorts of stuff electrical.
From what I can tell from previous posts, the easier tests are
1) Voltage across the battery poles with engine off to test for a bad cell,
2) AC voltage at battery with engine running to test for alternator diode problems (should be no AC voltage, correct?), or
3) Something called the A.I.R. pump, which I've never heard of and wouldn't know how to test.
The last time I had this happen was on a 2000 Caravan, and it was the battery.