Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 Mk6 - High Idle At Stop Light
Jan 24, 2015
My car is a 2010 gti mk6, unitronic stage 2, apr turboback, r8 coilpacks, stock intake with k&n drop in filter. Several months ago, it started throwing CELs, P2096 post catalyst fuel trim system too lean bank1. I cleared it. It kept coming back. Sometimes it threw P2293 fuel pressure regulator 2 performance but I read it via VCDS, it should be P0088 Fuel Rail/System Pressure too high - intermittent. it was accompanied by some high idles at stop light e.g. at constant 900, 1000 or even 1200rpm occasionally. but the car drove well, seemed like nothing wrong.
High idle youtube link: [URL] .....
I changed the front o2 sensor but the problem persisted. Then I thought it was the MAF, I unplugged it, oil consumption improved but high idle and the above P2293 persisted. Recently, the high idle appears more frequently. I now suspect it is the PCV valve. I took off the oil cap this morning, felt some suction, the engine shakes a little and exhaust sounded a little rough but rpm didn't change. Taking off the oil dipstick showed the same. Is it the pcv valve?
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On my 2010 Golf with 2.5, when I first start car above 40 degrees it goes into high idle for a few seconds which is normal. However, below 40 degrees it goes into low idle on cold motor. I brought this to 2 different dealers and they checked computer and fin no fault codes. How can I get this fixed?
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I have noticed, in my 2012 Elantra with 32,000 miles on it, that my car is shaking at idle. I'll be at a red light or stop sign and the vibration is SUPER annoying. I have had it tested at a Hyundai Dealership. They couldn't "replicate the problem" and nothing it wrong with my car.
I may be trading this car in for the Veloster Turbo. I'm tired of how slow this car is. I know I sacrificed speed for gas mileage, but I have a question, does the Veloster have this problem as well?
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My check engine light just appeared like an hour ago. In idle, it sounds like a big flicking V8 Supercharged (I actually feel the car vibrating) and I need to give it a LOT of gas to start in 1st. When I turn the key, it takes a while to start. It is flicking weird. I am dropping my car first thing in the morning, but somebody got that so far?! And the last thing I did before getting the light is reversing in a parking lot and parking my car. I have my car since december.
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I think something is wrong with my brake. I only have less than 3k miles on my 2012 Elantra GLS. But now, when I apply brake to stop from either a very low speed or high speed, I always hear a clear click (only one) sound which probably comes from under the car or brake pad (front driver's side). It sounds like metals collision. When idling, applying brake does not make any sound.
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My 2011 Elantra has a slightly rough idle at stop lights. It doesn't happen ever time, and some people probably wouldn't even notice it, but at every few/several stops it idles a bit rough. When I recently had it in to Hyundai service for the ECM update, I asked them to take a look at it. Of course, they couldn't replicate it at the time, so they couldn't do anything to address it directly. The service manager asked if it happens when the A/C is on or off. While I didn't know the answer at the time, it seems to happen with it both on or off. He did say that the ECM update may address/fix the issue, but unfortunately it didn't. While it's not a big problem, it's a minor annoyance I'd like to get fixed (as I need to enjoy my ride at all times.
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I'm stuck in a bad situation. With my work schedule it will be literally a month until I have time to look at my car during daylight. I may be able to drop it off next week.
Anyhow, the R is making a horrendous high pitched noise while coasting to a stop. This starts at just under 30 mph and is most pronounced in neutral. Accelerating in gear stops it. It is loud inside and louder outside and there is some rough "clanking" associated with it. My guess is a belt or bearing. It is coming from the front passenger side.
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Just last night I noticed that when I was at a stop light my RPM would go high then low and when driving it felt like when she was changing gears alil rough (if that makes sense). This morning she started up just fine but as soon as I put into drive it stalled. Turned her off and started right up and then in drive stalled again....did this three times and I gave up. Last night when I was at a stop light I thought TPS because when I first bought her I had to change it, so it felt alil familiar, but back then (5 yrs ago) she never stalled.
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Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
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I need locating the locking clips that hold the high mounted stop light assembly in place. Are there any diagrams?
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I have a 2002 VW passat sometimes at a stop light the car seems to just die, stop, the engine just stops, I have checked/ Replaced the fuel filter, air cleaner, I am stuck.
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During the winter, i always noticed that when starting up the car for the first time, the rpm always jumped high for about 60sec - probably around 1100. i know is normal - just the antichoke kicking in. However, summer is almost here and today was a hot day, and when i started the car and it automatically idled at 600rpm straight away. Is this normal ? or has something happened to my autochoke?
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So my cars idle has been revving slightly from 9 to 10. siting idle sometimes it will do the same but from 10-11. when it does it shudders the car slightly.
So I stop by a local auto parts and get the check engine scanned.....it comes back as Idle control too high.
So What is that? The guy working there who seems to have some knowledge of turbos said it was either some control piece or a vacuum leak.
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So my R32 idles high when stopped and I googled it and people said that a new battery fixed the issue. I replaced the battery and it stopped doing it for a few days. Went on a long road trip (1200 miles) and it did it again. Been a few months still does it.
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This morning I was playing around with my 2010 Prius "B" mode - I realize today that when the Prius CVT is in "B" mode the Prius ICE won't turn off even when it is at a complete stop -- instead the ICE runs/idles at a 996 RPM / .20-.40 GPH while stopped in traffic. The coolant temperature (@190F ) doesn't matter, Battery State of Charge (54% soc) doesn't matter. To re-enable the stop-start idle technology - I had to switch the Prius CVT back to "D" mode. I end up burning a bit more fuel on this trip because it took me a while to realize that I was in "B" mode and that the stop start idle technology had disabled in the "B" mode ...
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Noticed water droplets or heavy condensation in their high stop brake light (2015 model)?
I've noticed a small crack. The crack seems internal and not completely through so I don't think that is the reason. There also seems to be a vent around the water washer nozzle which should allow the light to dry out. It just seems to be taking days! Do that gap around the washer nozzle is intact a vent or are theses lights sealed. My one is the LED version.
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Recently I noticed that three LEDs in my 05 SantaFe's high mount stop light glow even without the brake applied. When the brake pedal is depressed, the entire light glows as it should. But only the three LEDs glow at all times.
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Within the past few days my towncar has developed a rough idle. When I'm stopped at a light or stop sign it jumps and just plain idles rough. This also happens when I change speeds after either accelerate or decelerate. I travel an average of 80 miles a day total to and from work and my car has about 140,000 miles on it.
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I disconnected the battery yesterday and once I connected it back the car felt like it was gonna turn off and ever since when I'm in a stop it starts shaking. Is their anyway to fix the idle time ....
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1994 ford f250 7.5 I have replaced thermostat to a 185 from a 192 new fan clutch dam truck still gets pretty hot at idle or if I am at a stop light and fast It shouldn't run this hot. It gets to 95 degrees never had this problem before only thing I can think of doing Is a radiator flush and clean it really good have checked for obstructions in fins but clean.
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My DSG is great until I drive it for a while. Yesterday, for example, I left work and drove twenty miles, mostly freeway. Then I stopped at an all natural drive thru (sonic) and when I let off the break, from a stop, it lunged and sounded like it was going to die. When I pressed the accelerator to move even more the tranny was loud and jerky still. I parked it for a few hours and when I jumped into it, she was fine once again. So it appears that it is only after driving or warming up good that it acts this way. I have an appointment Tuesday to get it looked at, but I doubt they will take the time to drive it that long and say to me, "everything is fine".
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